driftking_v8

What Motor

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I've got a tt-01 with the normal speed control ( standart TEU) and i saw a beautiful motor team orion : 75 KMH / 8 x 1 turns / normal but

can my car and speed control handle that speed ??

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Your ESC doesn't stand a chance with that motor, it can't handle anything more than a Sport Tuned.

You'll need an unlimited ESC (and a good one at that) to make best use of an 8 turn motor, along with high quality race packs which can deliver the current required for that motor.

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I've got a tt-01 with the normal speed control ( standart TEU) and i saw a beautiful motor team orion : 75 KMH / 8 x 1 turns / normal but

can my car and speed control handle that speed ??

Negative ghostrider, the TEU101Bk can only support either the stock silver can or the black can sport tuned. There are some that run the Super Stock RZ/TZ on it and I've heard of some people running a 19T motor on it, but in my opinion you are just asking for trouble once you pass the black can level with that speed controller. Go out and buy a Novak XRS if you are looking for a cheap ESC, its rated to 15T. Either that or buy a ESC that is unlimited like a Novak GTX, or go brushless.

As far as what the TT-01 chassis can handle it depends on your modifications, I would put anything more than a Super Stock RZ/TZ in a bone stock TT-01. My TT-01 has basically every hop up avaliable including parts not cataloged as hop ups and I wouldnt put less than a 15T in it. The problem is controlability, there arent a lot of ways to adjust things on the TT-01 even with the hop ups so maintaining control of the TT-01 at high speeds is a pretty difficult task.

My TT-01 handles pretty good, I usually run a Super Stock RZ in it, but I also have a 19T komodo pro motor that I race with. While it doesnt have the adjustability of my TA-05MS I have been able to keep up with and beat the times of Xrays, TC's, and TA's. It'll never win in a mod race, but it can hold its own in club racing. This of course came at a high cost of parts, which in some peoples eyes may been contrued as a waste since i spent nearly as much on my TT-01 as I did for my TA-05MS chassis which out of the box has the same amount of tuning and more adjustments than the TT-01 has. I use a Novak XRS ESC, Futaba digital servos and a 3PL 2.4Ghz Fasst transmitter.

Here is a list of my mods:

Front 1-Way Differential

Rear Ball Differential

Tamiya sealed ball bearings (all bushings replaced)

TB EVO IV Ball Joints (for the drive shaft)

TB EVO IV Aluminum Drive Shaft

Aluminum Rear Toe-in Uprights (-2 Rear)

High Speed 55T/58T Gear Set (Using 58T)

22/23T Pinion Set (Using 23T)

24/25T Pinion Set

Front Stabilizer Set

Rear Stabilizer Set

CVA Mini Shock (Soft/Med/Hard viscosity oils)

Aluminum Motor Heat Sink

Aluminum Motor Mount

Carbon Upper Frame

Adjustable Upper Arms F/R (-2 front. 0 rear)

Adjustable Turnbuckle Tie Rods

Aluminum Racing Steering Set

Aluminum Steering Link

Racing Radials with Spong inserts

On Road Touring Spring set (I use Hard rear/Medium Front)

Metal Universal Drive Shaft Set F/R (50883)

Metal Universal Wheel Axles F/R (50823)

Aluminum Wheel Hubs

Ball Diff Cup Joint 53806 (You need this if you replace the drive shaft with the 39mm universals and have a ball differential)

Front One Way Diff Cup Joint 53590 (You need this if you replace the drive shaft with the 39mm universals and have a front one way differential)

Good Luck, and above all else have fun. I had a blast upgrading my TT-01 & that alone was worth the price <_<

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Would the TT01 support low enough gear ratio to run a 8 turn motor?

I'd work your way up to 8 turn. Get a no limit ESC and try a cheap 19turn. Then a cheap 14turn, then good 8turn.

I have just bought a 13turn quad motor for my M03 which I am confident will be too quick, but at 7 of ebay, I thought I'd give it a go.

The problem I am finding is there is so much slack in the steering and suspension I can't even get it to run straight up my road even with a 23turn.

The more expensive chassis are built to much higher tolerences so are better for speed.

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Go out and buy a Novak XRS if you are looking for a cheap ESC, its rated to 15T....

I found out the hard way that the XRS is a waste of $50. Sure it says it's rated down to 15T, but it's only capable of putting out 40amps. This means that pretty much every motor will have about the same acceleration as a stock silver can or sport tuned (just with different top-speeds). In my brother's DF-02, we tried everything to make it quick, but it just wouldn't happen. A used 23x2, a new 19x2, a freshly rebuilt 19x2, and even a freshly rebuilt 17x1. All motors performed identically. Basically the car had NO punch and couldn't make any jumps at the local track. The car was even geared down as far as possible. Of course you don't have to worry about thins like jumps in touring car races, so this stuff may be kinda irrelevant.

The sad fact is that our friends stock DF-02 with TEU101BK and sport tuned motor easily out guns the XRS DF-02 w/ 17T & lower short gears. <_<

For an 8T motor, I would much rather spend 3 times as much on something capable of some serious output like the Ko Propo "VFS-1" (same as Hot Bodies "Twister" ESC) with 780amps continuous, or Futaba MC850C with 840amps continuous! :P No reverse on these of course, but they are the size of a postage stamp...

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Would the TT01 support low enough gear ratio to run a 8 turn motor?

I'd work your way up to 8 turn. Get a no limit ESC and try a cheap 19turn. Then a cheap 14turn, then good 8turn.

I have just bought a 13turn quad motor for my M03 which I am confident will be too quick, but at 7 of ebay, I thought I'd give it a go.

The problem I am finding is there is so much slack in the steering and suspension I can't even get it to run straight up my road even with a 23turn.

The more expensive chassis are built to much higher tolerences so are better for speed.

I would think you would want to run it at 25/55, maybe stock 19/61... I really don't think its geared right for a 8T motor.

I personally wouldn't run a TT-01 under a 15T motor, 19T is a really sweet spot if you buy a good quality 19T motor for it. The Super Stock RZ is a decent place to start, it has great torque 27,500 RPM and doens't eat up batterys like other motors do. As recommened to me I would start with a Checkpoint Money or a Komodo Pro motor, if you go with the Komodo make sure its the Pro model and not the cheaper cousin. Both are great 19T motors.

If you wanted to go 17T I have used a Team Orion SV2 Pro BB 17T double wound motor on my TT-01, its a bit uncontrollable to me at times, but I am after enough control to race my car on a track not just raw "how fast can i go" speed.

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I found out the hard way that the XRS is a waste of $50. Sure it says it's rated down to 15T, but it's only capable of putting out 40amps. This means that pretty much every motor will have about the same acceleration as a stock silver can or sport tuned (just with different top-speeds). In my brother's DF-02, we tried everything to make it quick, but it just wouldn't happen. A used 23x2, a new 19x2, a freshly rebuilt 19x2, and even a freshly rebuilt 17x1. All motors performed identically. Basically the car had NO punch and couldn't make any jumps at the local track. The car was even geared down as far as possible...

I would much rather spend 3 times as much on something capable of some serious output like the Ko Propo "VFS-1" (same as Hot Bodies "Twister" ESC).

I moved my Druratrax 8t pro racing ESC from my TT-01 to my B4, so now my TT-01 has the XRS in it. I tried my Super Stock RZ, Komodo 19T pro, and a Team Orion 17T SV2 Pro BB Double wound on it and I could tell the difference in all three as far as acceleration and speed goes. I ran the same gearing for all 3 motors 23T/58T so honestly I can't see your 40A arguement, did my Novak GTX perform better with the same motors on my TA-05MS sure, but the GTX is also a lot more money than the XRS. The XRS is a HUGE step up from the stock TEU101BK both in acceleration and power output from motors, its a great ESC for what it does imo especially given its price point.

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I moved my Druratrax 8t pro racing ESC from my TT-01 to my B4, so now my TT-01 has the XRS in it. I tried my Super Stock RZ, Komodo 19T pro, and a Team Orion 17T SV2 Pro BB Double wound on it and I could tell the difference in all three as far as acceleration and speed goes. I ran the same gearing for all 3 motors 23T/58T so honestly I can't see your 40A arguement, did my Novak GTX perform better with the same motors on my TA-05MS sure, but the GTX is also a lot more money than the XRS. The XRS is a HUGE step up from the stock TEU101BK both in acceleration and power output from motors, its a great ESC for what it does imo especially given its price point.

but what motor should i take, i need a fast motor around 50/60 mph ??

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I guess everyone has to go through the "fastest motor possible" phase... You may not take this advice, but I feel obligated to give it.

Don't get that motor. Even if you get the ESC to match, it will be overgeared, and it will overheat and eat batteries like crazy. And even if it does get up to speed, you won't be able to control it. Spend your money on extra battery packs and a set of ball bearings instead.

Then go drive. Drive, drive, drive, and drive some more. Don't even think about doing any other modifications until your tires are completely worn through and you can put the car within inches of any spot at any speed.

Then, tear the car down and rebuild it with decent tires, oil shocks and tighter steering. Get some new tires and a good stock/sport-tuned motor (23-27 turns). It will feel like a rocketship compared to the 540, trust me. And you'll be able to really enjoy the extra power.

Get good, then go fast.

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Well Driftking V8 - you could try a 1/1 scale V8, or a Saturn V rocket but I doubt that your TT01 would touch those speeds with much less! <_<

Be realistic, what do you want to do with your car? If drifting is your thing (as your name suggests?), the top drifters in UK competition all use the Novak XRS with a 18/19turn can, the Moneymotor, Orion Drift Machine and Yokomo D1SP being the favourites. The TT01 will even struggle to handle a good 19turn without some serious handling mods, but it can certainly be improved. It would never handle with an 8 turn, unless wide open car park bashing is your thing?

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Well Driftking V8 - you could try a 1/1 scale V8, or a Saturn V rocket but I doubt that your TT01 would touch those speeds with much less! :unsure:

Be realistic, what do you want to do with your car? If drifting is your thing (as your name suggests?), the top drifters in UK competition all use the Novak XRS with a 18/19turn can, the Moneymotor, Orion Drift Machine and Yokomo D1SP being the favourites. The TT01 will even struggle to handle a good 19turn without some serious handling mods, but it can certainly be improved. It would never handle with an 8 turn, unless wide open car park bashing is your thing?

thnx but like I said I want a fast car but I also want that I can handle the speed

sow i need a new ESC (what ??) and a motor(what??), good advice markbt73 !!

but i want SPEED ( no no petrol or niro, just electro)

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Aiming for the farthest end of a spectrum is an all too common mistake I see time and time again.

Chances are if you're unfamiliar with the result of your desired metrics. then you don't know what you're in for. Many of us will be commonly reminded of the tech wizard at every track who can tune a car through the roof but are so uncontrollable they rely on walls for steering. Start with your existing ESC. it's rated down to 23 turns which handles most if not all of tamiya's mod-stock cans and sone mild modifieds. Next to pinion gears, motors are the cheapest jump to discovering your limits and gaining experience. Should you hit the ceiling on motors and the car is well within your ability to control it, then you start forking cash out for massive esc's and the truly psychotic motors they were built to require.

Results can't be targeted in the manner of aiming for the top. you need to explore the various bands of the spectrum to understand what you can handle. I wish we could evaluate your skill by reading your posts but it's impossible, we cannot tell you how to buid your car to a point of maximum performance within your own driving abilities without seeing you drive and knowing how you drive. I recommend you build a perspective on how performance changes with each part you buy. It will get expensive but that's the only way you can get a handle on your own car, it's limits and their relation to your skill.

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Does you budget stretch to brushless? Thats where I'd be looking if I could afford it.

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Sigh... You can lead a horse to water...

Have you ever seen what a 1/10 scale car going 50mph looks like? I have. It's waaaay faster than you think. It was a Bolink drag car running 10 cells, and some ridiculous hand-built motor. The guy made one good pass and was clocked at 55, and then it got out of shape on the 2nd pass and flipped over, and before it came to rest it was in pieces.

I myself have gotten a car up to what I would estimate was around 40-45mph on an oval track before I got sideways and it went airborne. Luckily it was an extremely tough car (Associated 10LSS) so no damage was done. I got my RC10GT somewhere close to that speed, but it was all over the place, and I very nearly wrecked it too. It takes much more than a big motor to hit those kinds of speeds. It takes enormous amounts of skill, and not a little bit of plain old luck.

But what about those Traxxas ads, with the big "65MPH!!!" logo in the corner? Well, in the strongest terms the content filter will allow, it's a load of hooey. It's balderdash. Just marketing hype. Yes, based on the RPM of the motor, and diameter of the tires, and the gearing, the car is theoretically capable of those speeds, in a perfect world, under ideal circumstances, with a strong tailwind. Most (99%+) owners will never see that kind of speed.

It is possible. But not with your car, and not without a lot of money, time, skill, and knowledge. You're talking about triple the speed you're going now.

I really don't want to rain on your parade. But I hate seeing people get into a hobby with unrealistic expectations, spend a bunch of money on stuff they don't need and can't handle, and then get discouraged and give up.

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Traxxas is saying that on their new brushless rides, aren't they? ... they *might* make it

But here's the deal... give noobies a totally overpowered uncontrollable R/C = lots of $$ to be made in spares. :)

Their brushless ESC also has a "training" setting like valet mode... yeah,

i too doubt noobies will read the instructions enough to find it.

Have you ever seen what a 1/10 scale car going 50mph looks like? I have. It's waaaay faster than you think.

50mph = 80km/h

yep, did it at our recent velodrome - just kept circling at 76-79km/h for laps on end

you'll need about 100m runup to reach cruising speed

got onboard video footage too

had a crazy idea of trying it with a TT01... but didn't get time to fix one up. Handling could be suss.

but even with a CF & alloy chassis, you'll need skills of a mod class racer to handle that speed.

Hit anything and you'll need a broom to pickup the pieces.

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Traxxas is saying that on their new brushless rides, aren't they? ... they *might* make it

But here's the deal... give noobies a totally overpowered uncontrollable R/C = lots of $$ to be made in spares. :D

Their brushless ESC also has a "training" setting like valet mode... yeah,

i too doubt noobies will read the instructions enough to find it.

50mph = 80km/h

yep, did it at our recent velodrome - just kept circling at 76-79km/h for laps on end

you'll need about 100m runup to reach cruising speed

got onboard video footage too

had a crazy idea of trying it with a TT01... but didn't get time to fix one up. Handling could be suss.

but even with a CF & alloy chassis, you'll need skills of a mod class racer to handle that speed.

Hit anything and you'll need a broom to pickup the pieces.

ok but with wich car i CAN handle the speed ???

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ok but with wich car i CAN handle the speed ???
If you are determined to use an 8 turn motor then the answer is one of these http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=49419

To control it a choice of one of these

LRP Quantum Competiton 3

Tekin G11

Novak GTX

A decent servo to control it. like the KO 30045. Cheap servos won't have the speed and power to control it.

You will then need batteries with at least 3700mah capacity if you want it ot last more than one or two minutes, high quality ones from Intellect, East Power or Gold Power to handle the current drain, cheap ones won't be up to the job.

Then something like the KO Esprit 3 or Futaba 3VCS radio so you can program the transmitter to enable you to have a decent chance of being able to control it.

And expect to pay out a lot every time you have a big accident.

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....and don't forget to dump your TT01 and get a top touring car chassis, something like a XRay T2 might help. Sorry, but that's the reality, and you'll still fail. Life's a beeeech!! :D

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....and don't forget to dump your TT01 and get a top touring car chassis, something like a XRay T2 might help. Sorry, but that's the reality, and you'll still fail. Life's a beeeech!! :)

yep i think i'm gonna buy a hpi sprint 2 ?!?

should he handle the speed

greets dK V8

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Let's try this one more time, because I'm bored and I have the time:

An HPI Sprint 2, straight out of the box with the included motor and ESC, probably goes around 25mph. With a little tuning (and by the way, "tuning" does NOT mean "bolting on a bunch of shiny junk"), you can probably add 5mph to that.

And that's about the best you can realistically do with that, or any other inexpensive touring car.

If you really want to go 60mph reliably with an electric RC car, you'll need several thousand dollars worth of equipment, and enough knowledge, skill, and wisdom to use the high-level stuff properly. You'll need to understand, at a bare minimum, chassis tuning, gearing, aerodynamics, and electronics well enough to not need to ask which specific stuff to buy. You'll need to know precisely how each change you make to the car affects its driving. And your driving skill will have to be superb. I mean, able to compete in major races. If you're not "the fast guy" at your local track, you're not a good enough driver to handle a car going that fast.

You'll need a top-of-the-line radio, and know how to use every setting on it. You'll need extensive knowledge of battery tech, and the best batteries and chargers you can get. You'll need a programmable ESC, and knowledge of how to program it. You'll need to test different bodies for aerodynamic characteristics, and choose the one that's the lowest drag and the most stable, not the one you think looks the coolest. You'll need to understand motor technology well enough to know why certain winds/turns are used in certain circumstances, so you'll be able to choose the right motor to reach your goal, instead of just grabbing the "fastest" one on the shelf.

Then you'll take the car to the biggest open space you can find, and test and test and test some more, trying different tires, gearing, spoiler angles, suspension settings, and all sorts of other variables, changing one thing at a time and taking pages and pages of notes so you know wat did what, and you can go back to an earlier setting if you mess up. And occasionally you'll wreck, because everyone does, and you'll have to repair the car or replace things that wear out, because the wear and tear on the components at those speeds is unbelievable. You'll go through tires like mad. You'll hit a slight dip in the pavement you didn't see and the car will flip over and your heart will skip as you watch parts go flying off it. And the next day, after you've repaired it, you'll be back out there again, chasing after your goal.

And when you finally see that speed on the radar gun, you'll take a photo of the reading, and you'll video the run and post it here or somewhere else, and you'll have a real sense of accomplishment.

If that's what you want to do, then that's awesome. I'd do it if I had time and money. But that's what it is going to take.

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It's not impossible, and it doesn't require thousands of dollars of equipment & technique:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...amp;hl=mambized

First off, if you want to set some sort of speed goal, your gonna need a way to measure it. Another member here used a portable GPS strapped to the wing of his Dark Impact to measure his run speeds.

Second, you won't be able to reach such speed reliably without switching to a brushless motor system because hot brushless motors pushed to such limits will REQUIRE frequent rebuilds (3 or 4 runs maybe). Now to reach those speeds with brushless, you either need an extremely high KV (rpm/volt) motor, or a high voltage battery (like 3-cell lipo) and a brushless system that can handle such voltage. Either way works, so make sure your getting the max rpm possible.

Beyond this you just need to gear the car properly (buy a variety of pinions and/or spurs) so the motors rpm will push the car to the desired speed. Now as long as you keep the motor temperature in it's proper operating range (buy an infrared thermometer), you won't have to worry about destroying it. But chances are that when your pushing for ultra high speed, you will most likely be over-geared resulting in an overheated motor. This means your only gonna get a couple passes before you must let it cool down.

But your gonna have to trust me when I say that top-speed runs get old really quick. The guy who built the 70mph Dark Impact has already sold the car. Not very fun

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Starting from zero, it could easily take a couple grand to duplicate the feat with the DI. That's hardly a stock vehicle, and it sounds like he fried parts left and right in his pursuit of speed. LiPo batteries and their specific chargers are pricey, too. And you'd be nuts to try it with a basic AM radio, so there's more expense.

I didn't say it was impossible; I said it was very very difficult, and would cost a lot more than just a motor and ESC.

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I used to run a 12T triple with my TA02 (very hopped up) car and it was very fast, I then tried a 9T and the car was just mental. It did still handle but the speed surprisingly well, so I would imagine the newer chassis would be ok? although as I say it had many hop ups such as the RW racing chassis etc. Anyway the speed it was travelling at made me want to stop the experiment in case it crashed and my investment in the car would have doubled as I would have to rebuild it.

Although as has been mentioned here.. the allure of speed is a compelling one.. If only I could justify a brushless / lipo set-up :)

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Starting from zero, it could easily take a couple grand to duplicate the feat with the DI. That's hardly a stock vehicle, and it sounds like he fried parts left and right in his pursuit of speed. LiPo batteries and their specific chargers are pricey, too. And you'd be nuts to try it with a basic AM radio, so there's more expense.

I didn't say it was impossible; I said it was very very difficult, and would cost a lot more than just a motor and ESC.

lol! I forgot to factor the cost of roasted parts and a lipo charger. It could be done with NIMH and Novak Velocity 3.5. I doubt the batteries will last very many cycles at those super high discharge rates though. It might even be doable without breakage provided you have an angles touch on the controller (both wheel & trigger ;)). The drivetrain should handle the rpm, it's just the sudden torque of an electric motor that breaks things. This is why they say you should be a pro to attempt this stuff...

Personally, I would much prefer to try something like this in a buggy or oversized touring car as the larger tires & long suspension are much more tolerable of road imperfections

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