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backtomyroots

The "Postman Brought Me" Thread

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You have to look at the blister pack from a retailers' perspective too. Tamiya charge a premium for parts separately from kits - or to look at it alternatively, a kit represents a massive saving for all the parts. A retailer will typically buy the kits he wants to sell 'whole' plus a couple of extra's (depending on market demand) so they can be 'broken' for parts. This saves the retailer the overhead (extortionate in some instances) rates which Tamiya charge for spare parts - and also means that some of that saving can be passed on to the customer.

I can see that the blister packs do make for a very presentable bit of packaging, but at the same time I disagree with the whole 'NIB' collection thing. It's not dissimlar to those which spend an age polishing the manifolds and blining up their engine bay on a 1:1 car - nobody will ever see it. I would rather Tamiya injected more money into developing new and exciting products rather than old-fashioned packaging...

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Totally agree there Reilluor - although it is slightly underwhelming opening a modern kit I would rather the money and development went on exciting new products than a box that I will never look in again...

The only NIB I have is a Midnight Pumpkin Black Edition and that at least has the little cardboard box for some of the metal parts so it has some of that old school feel and smell...

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Good point on the economical point of view. But still, whenever you intend to build a kit, the first impression when you open the kit the first time and you see a nicely arranged blister pack, it is pure joy. I build a NIB re-re Egress. The box is same style as the original issue. Same is with the Avante re-re. It is not only a special car, it also a special ceremony to break the blisters one after one until the build is finished. The whole process is fun and you can enjoy it very much. However, I do not build modern cars at all because the do not mean anything to me. They are charmless and without any special touch (unfortunately). Which I also understand from todays economical point of view.

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Royal Fail have let me down :(

Their 48 service should have seen my parcel arrive today - a DT02 Super Fighter GR.

Sad times.

To compensate, I've ordered some scale shocks for my CC01 from Asiatees!

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First time with Tamico and fair play, quick and cheap :)

£40 all in for this and Im just as excited about it same as any kit :)

I think ill be trying Tamico more now

14v1mx5.jpg

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You have to look at the blister pack from a retailers' perspective too. Tamiya charge a premium for parts separately from kits - or to look at it alternatively, a kit represents a massive saving for all the parts. A retailer will typically buy the kits he wants to sell 'whole' plus a couple of extra's (depending on market demand) so they can be 'broken' for parts. This saves the retailer the overhead (extortionate in some instances) rates which Tamiya charge for spare parts - and also means that some of that saving can be passed on to the customer.

I can see that the blister packs do make for a very presentable bit of packaging, but at the same time I disagree with the whole 'NIB' collection thing. It's not dissimlar to those which spend an age polishing the manifolds and blining up their engine bay on a 1:1 car - nobody will ever see it. I would rather Tamiya injected more money into developing new and exciting products rather than old-fashioned packaging...

Like you say "Some". Sometimes you can pass the savings on to the customer, sometimes the better buy in price is to pass a bit of saving onto the customer and for the retailer to line his pockets a bit more, and sometimes just the latter. (I realise you worked at a hobby shop for some time ;) ) My LHS also looks to the Stellas and Banzais to get a better deal than the local distributor.

The NIB is more for self gratification. I have a shiny manifold engine bay, it is for me not anybody else. I also don't collect nib but can understand that it must be exciting to NIB collectors to have a pristine kit there ready to be opened and have the blister packs cut at a moments notice. Everything doesn't last forever, especially our memories, so while there isn't a rerelease of a particular kit, it might be nice to hold onto something that is no longer available for a while and build it (or save it and sell it to someone a bit more appreciative) at a later date when you want a nostalgia trip.

Imagine you are 65-70, Thinking of your favourite Tamiya, and imagine there isn't that many left in the world. A few collectors from days gone by have kept this hidden away for 30+ years and now decide to let it go. This is your last chance to pick one up and relive every cut of the blister and turn of the screwdriver all over again and think "My goodness, I am glad somebody kept this NIB all those years."

Just make sure it isn't a £50,000 mk1 hotshot or at 65-70 you will be having a heart attack cutting into it :lol:

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Hello!! airbrush paints! I have some AutoAir paints for my Bruiser project, sparkelescent blue over black or white base. Haven't used it yet. What lacquer will you be using? I have some 1k churchill paints clear coat. Would have loved 2k clear but spraying at home it's a no no!

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I couldn't resist on these two. I'm a sucker for Countachs and I figured I'd get the Martini Lancia before it went bye bye.

20150206_174533_zpsf6zyp6ae.jpg

20150206_174410_zpsierc2pnm.jpg

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14v1mx5.jpg

Just started unpacking this and noticed the body... seems remarkably similar to the bear hawk?

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Hello!! airbrush paints! I have some AutoAir paints for my Bruiser project, sparkelescent blue over black or white base. Haven't used it yet. What lacquer will you be using? I have some 1k churchill paints clear coat. Would have loved 2k clear but spraying at home it's a no no!

The first couple of paint jobs I will be doing will be will be Lexan. When it comes to hard bodies I have couple of options. 1 normal clear enamel out of a can or a little visit to my lifelong friend who just happens to own a body shop so 2K goodness is not out of the question as romper suits and air-fed masks are a plenty ;)

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Just started unpacking this and noticed the body... seems remarkably similar to the bear hawk?

It is indeed. The Mad Fighter shell is basically a Bear Hawk with a wing and a bonnet scoop. Some folks have made very nice Bear Hawk replicas by taking Mad Fighter shells and shaving the wing mounts.

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ws_deliverytime.jpg

And what I bumper crop this time :)

postman_98.jpg

postman_97.jpg

postman_94.jpg

postman_95.jpg

postman_96.jpg

ws_happy_dance.jpg

Build thread! Build thread!! Build thread!!! :D

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My March edition of radio control car racer arrived today, it's a good one, John gets a bit number crazy in his iconic section, an excellent read.

K

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and_so_it_begins.jpg

Great so you have started the build thread then ! :P ..

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So much win on this page! :D

Just some Tamiya basic alloy hexes for me (yes)today. :ph34r:

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The first couple of paint jobs I will be doing will be will be Lexan. When it comes to hard bodies I have couple of options. 1 normal clear enamel out of a can or a little visit to my lifelong friend who just happens to own a body shop so 2K goodness is not out of the question as romper suits and air-fed masks are a plenty ;)

That's mighty handy for you, I'll be seeing what results I can get from 1k :( !! With regards to Lexan, being waterbased do these need backing with clear coat so that they don't get damaged by water, or are they ok once cured, have you already tried auto air on lexan, i hear they adhere fine, but not sure how to seal them on the inside, I'm worried a clear coat would crack?!

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That's mighty handy for you, I'll be seeing what results I can get from 1k :( !! With regards to Lexan, being waterbased do these need backing with clear coat so that they don't get damaged by water, or are they ok once cured, have you already tried auto air on lexan, i hear they adhere fine, but not sure how to seal them on the inside, I'm worried a clear coat would crack?!

This was one thing I was worried about and initially I was going to go with Parma Fascolor as the paints are made specifically for the RC industry. However I really wanted a paint solution that would work on both clear and hard bodies so I called the UK distributor And they assured me these will work fine on Lexan, just use them as normal ie dark first the back them with white, silver etc.

I haven't tried them on Lexan yet, but later on today I hope to shoot my Boomer shell in a cheeky pearl white :)

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Great so you have started the build thread then ! :P ..

Not just yet gonna shoot some colour on the Boomer first it's shivering in the corner as it has no clothes on :lol: :lol: :lol:

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