The "Postman Brought Me" Thread

[guitarman]

On 18 March 2017 at 1:47 PM, Munchbox said:

Now maybe I'm a little late to this discussion but I feel like you guys are over thinking this with Y connectors and extra batteries and such. Im not even sure a Y connector will work for that...

The switch should go in between the RX and the led strip. Try plugging your switch into the RX, then carefully slide the bare wires into the connector for the led setup. Try to match colors up but don't be afraid to mix up if it isn't working. Once you have them inserted in the connector try your tx ch3 switch to see if it works. If it doesn't, change the wires around and try again.

Then when you find a combo that works put a female connector on with the color combo that works and plug it in!

I tried this today and it didn't work,,,nothing.

If the Y lead doesn't work I may just leave then plugged into the Rx 

at least they will be on when running the car.

Alan

 

[racer1]

Sorry.  Duplicate 

[racer1]

Been away on a business trip and arrived back home yesterday to find a few of the items I've bought have arrived.  Always a nice surprise to come home to new rc cars and parts. 

Lets start with this thing. Seller had 2 of these chassis and swapped all of the touring car suspension parts from the other car to this baja champ.  I saw this posted once a while back then it was gone.  When it was reported I noticed the bidding was slow so I took a shot and won.  Interesting this is almost an exact duplicated of something I built back in the day. Difference was than mine started as a touring car and I added the larger wheels, tires and baja champ body.  The approach was different but the end result was almost identical.  Looking forward to running this one.  

 

next up was this   I know it's not Tamiya but it's still worthy of mention. Since this one was discontinued I figured I should get at least one more for the future. 

And some parts. Not sure how it happened but I somehow missed out on the mad fighter. In my quest to own all of the hard bodies I somehow missed this one until it was too late.  Lucky for me there was a seller on eBay that was parting out one and I was able to buy everything needed to convert a madbull into a mad fighter. Now I just need another madbull

And finally.  Couldn't pass up on a super hotshot re-re body. 

 

 

 

 

[TurnipJF]

On 18/03/2017 at 1:47 PM, Munchbox said:

Now maybe I'm a little late to this discussion but I feel like you guys are over thinking this with Y connectors and extra batteries and such. Im not even sure a Y connector will work for that...

The switch should go in between the RX and the led strip. Try plugging your switch into the RX, then carefully slide the bare wires into the connector for the led setup. Try to match colors up but don't be afraid to mix up if it isn't working. Once you have them inserted in the connector try your tx ch3 switch to see if it works. If it doesn't, change the wires around and try again.

Then when you find a combo that works put a female connector on with the color combo that works and plug it in!

 

Since the switch is just that - a switch - that won't work I'm afraid. All it does is make or break a contact between the two exposed wires - it doesn't supply any power to them.

 

The Y-lead is not necessary - all it does is cut down on the amount of soldering required - but whether via a Y-lead or hardwired connections, the LED harness needs to be connected to a power source. The switch is then used to make or break the connection to said power source.

 

The receiver power rail is a viable power source for the LED array, so it makes sense to connect both it and the switch thereto rather than adding the weight and hassle of a second battery pack.

 

[TurnipJF]

4 hours ago, guitarman said:

I tried this today and it didn't work,,,nothing.

If the Y lead doesn't work I may just leave then plugged into the Rx 

at least they will be on when running the car.

Alan

 

See my previous post... 

 

[IBIFTKH]

4 hours ago, guitarman said:

I tried this today and it didn't work,,,nothing.

If the Y lead doesn't work I may just leave then plugged into the Rx 

at least they will be on when running the car.

Alan

Your light unit has two wires that go from the unit to the Rx plug. Cut one of those and solder the bare wires from the switch to the newly-cut wire.

Your switch plugs into channel 3. The light unit still needs power so it plugs into any spare socket on the receiver (I often use the 'bind' socket on my Flysky Rxs).

You may need to play around with the plug options on the switch but to start with leave both in place and try it like that. Only fiddle if necessary.

Hope this helps.

[TurnipJF]

5 minutes ago, IBIFTKH said:

Your light unit has two wires that go from the unit to the Rx plug. Cut one of those and solder the bare wires from the switch to the newly-cut wire.

Your switch plugs into channel 3. The light unit still needs power so it plugs into any spare socket on the receiver (I often use the 'bind' socket on my Flysky Rxs).

You may need to play around with the plug options on the switch but to start with leave both in place and try it like that. Only fiddle if necessary.

Hope this helps.

That would work, yes, but it would involve hardwiring the switch to the LED harness. Possibly not an issue, but I'd do it differently if it were mine.

 

Since the OP has a Y-lead on order, I'd say plug the Turnigy switch into one of the Y-lead's outputs, and snip the red wire leading from the junction to the other output. Solder each of the bare wires to an end of the snipped red wire. This then makes the second output from the Y-lead powered from the receiver and switchable via the Turnigy switch.

 

The LED array can then be plugged into this output with no modifications required, and can be unplugged again just as easily. Great for using the one switch with multiple LED-equipped bodyshells for example.

[Munchbox]

3 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

 

Since the switch is just that - a switch - that won't work I'm afraid. All it does is make or break a contact between the two exposed wires - it doesn't supply any power to them.

 

The Y-lead is not necessary - all it does is cut down on the amount of soldering required - but whether via a Y-lead or hardwired connections, the LED harness needs to be connected to a power source. The switch is then used to make or break the connection to said power source.

 

The receiver power rail is a viable power source for the LED array, so it makes sense to connect both it and the switch thereto rather than adding the weight and hassle of a second battery pack.

 

While this does technically make sense, one assumes that the switch is more than its name implies. Namely a simple logic circuit similar to the one you'd find in a servo. The idea being not that the switch simply makes and breaks the connection for power but manages the power between the RX and the led array.

Don't get me wrong, even after a semester of electronics and 10 years as a certified electrician the RX voltage not swinging with the tx switch throw doesn't make sense to me.. it's an 'electronics not electrical' sort of thing I suppose..

Regardless, stealing the guts from an old servo is still the simplest (and cheapest?) solution.. 

[TurnipJF]

8 hours ago, Munchbox said:

While this does technically make sense, one assumes that the switch is more than its name implies. Namely a simple logic circuit similar to the one you'd find in a servo. The idea being not that the switch simply makes and breaks the connection for power but manages the power between the RX and the led array.

Don't get me wrong, even after a semester of electronics and 10 years as a certified electrician the RX voltage not swinging with the tx switch throw doesn't make sense to me.. it's an 'electronics not electrical' sort of thing I suppose..

Regardless, stealing the guts from an old servo is still the simplest (and cheapest?) solution.. 

The easiest way to think of it is that the Turnigy switch is a solid state relay. It contains a logic circuit, yes, which allows it to act on the signal supplied by the receiver. However all this does is tell it when to make or break the connection between the two poles. 

[guitarman]

Well so many solutions to what should be a simple problem.

Years ago we used to wire a micro switch to the lights and control them by a servo

actuating the switch.

The micro switch was push to make push to break and was virtually foolproof.

I thought the lights would take their power from the 3rd channel on the Rx because they are permanently on

when connected so not needing a separate battery.

As has been stated one wire needs to be cut and connected to one side of the electronic switch.

The second wire is the return thus making the circuit but it doesn't want to work?

Ill keep playing with it.

 

 

[TurnipJF]

37 minutes ago, guitarman said:

Well so many solutions to what should be a simple problem.

Years ago we used to wire a micro switch to the lights and control them by a servo

actuating the switch.

The micro switch was push to make push to break and was virtually foolproof.

I thought the lights would take their power from the 3rd channel on the Rx because they are permanently on

when connected so not needing a separate battery.

As has been stated one wire needs to be cut and connected to one side of the electronic switch.

The second wire is the return thus making the circuit but it doesn't want to work?

Ill keep playing with it.

 

 

 

Could you perhaps take/upload a photo or two of your setup and connections? Perhaps there is something we can suggest if we see it?

 

(It also might be worth starting a separate thread for it, as discussions on this topic might be useful to others in the future, and would be easier to find in their own thread.)

[Lhodgo]

My first ever Team Associated purchase. I had a moment of weakness and couldn't resist the custom colour scheme. Shame on me...question is do I give it a run???

[Supercoolnothing]

I'd run it, a well sorted and set up rc10 is a joy to drive. 

[TeaMonster]

1 hour ago, Lhodgo said:

My first ever Team Associated purchase. I had a moment of weakness and couldn't resist the custom colour scheme. Shame on me...question is do I give it a run???

Very nice

[guitarman]

Apologies for the double post.

 

 

[guitarman]

On ‎20‎/‎03‎/‎2017 at 10:34 AM, TurnipJF said:

 

Could you perhaps take/upload a photo or two of your setup and connections? Perhaps there is something we can suggest if we see it?

 

(It also might be worth starting a separate thread for it, as discussions on this topic might be useful to others in the future, and would be easier to find in their own thread.)

TurnipJF

Yes I will take pictures and try to explain what I am doing.

My Y lead should be here tomorrow (Tuesday) so I will wait for that to arrive before I start cutting wires.

The instructions that come with the Switch show a separate battery being used no mention of running

it from the Rx power.

I'll come back tomorrow when I have tried it.

******* OK its Tuesday******** and the postman brought my Y lead which does not work with the lights.

I will put a link to a video on youtube that explains exactly how to use the Turnigy Switch.

As you will see if you watch the video if you want to use 1 battery it needs to have a take off point which mine does not have

so unless I get a battery that has one I wont be able to use the switch.

The video is very informative and should answer a lot of questions.

At least I now know why my lights won't work.

 

 

[zakspeed]

Just received a vintage brat. Pics to follow but won it on eBay for £26 wasn't sure if the seller would honour it but they have and well chuffed with it. Nice mk2 version with narrow wheels and wide bumper and included the original acoms gear. Needs very minor resto. .

[Rb4276]

Alloy uprights for my monster beetle

[Supercoolnothing]

A set of yeah racing df03 universals for my bigwig and my Kyosho NSR 500 HOR that I bought from @mr crispy. I haven't had a chance to look at either of these yet (the joys of being a new dad) but tomorrow's another day. 

[Badcrumble]

Diff building soon!

[Dangerseeker]

20 hours ago, Supercoolnothing said:

A set of yeah racing df03 universals for my bigwig and my Kyosho NSR 500 HOR that I bought from @mr crispy. I haven't had a chance to look at either of these yet (the joys of being a new dad) but tomorrow's another day. 

no tomorrow is the same day than before as a (new) dad and it wont change for the next years 

[Jason1145]

7 hours ago, Badcrumble said:

Diff building soon!

You gonna stuff the foams in the diff? 

Carry on sir

[Rb4276]

Tamiya axles for my universals that get rid of the set screw and replace it with a pin. I have one universal on my tt02b ms that constantly comes undone

[Pumesta]

On 20/03/2017 at 5:25 PM, guitarman said:

TurnipJF

Yes I will take pictures and try to explain what I am doing.

My Y lead should be here tomorrow (Tuesday) so I will wait for that to arrive before I start cutting wires.

The instructions that come with the Switch show a separate battery being used no mention of running

it from the Rx power.

I'll come back tomorrow when I have tried it.

******* OK its Tuesday******** and the postman brought my Y lead which does not work with the lights.

I will put a link to a video on youtube that explains exactly how to use the Turnigy Switch.

As you will see if you watch the video if you want to use 1 battery it needs to have a take off point which mine does not have

so unless I get a battery that has one I wont be able to use the switch.

The video is very informative and should answer a lot of questions.

At least I now know why my lights won't work.

 

 

I put one of these in my Blackfoot a few weeks ago.  I took the  feeds from the ESC, I just unsoldered the deans plug from the ESC attached the + from the switch to the deans plug and took the - from the lights and attached it straight to the - pin on the deans plug. Replaced the heat shrink, plugged the connector into the third channel on the RX and everything works   The only other thing I did was install a connector so I could unplug the lights so I could remove the body.

[guitarman]

Thanks Pumesta

If you have a look at the "Y adaptor for Tamiya nimh battery 

thread you will see how we sorted my Turnigy.