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The "Postman Brought Me" Thread

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This little beauty

Mazda

The body has seen better days but is  still usable, the chassis is in great condition and includes a servo, silver can and new TBL02s.  The box is virtually mint. :wub:

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22 minutes ago, Maelstrom said:

This little beauty

Mazda

 

The body has seen better days but is  still usable, the chassis is in great condition and includes a servo, silver can and new TBL02s.  The box is virtually mint. :wub:

Was this out of a ebay auction? I have bid this also, but didnt want to pay over 40€. Lost that one. 😄

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The motor has turned up. 

MRI 19 triple wet mag with adjustable timing I as new condition. If I remember this thing haul ***. 

1533463201583429576799.jpg

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1533463376147-1165428801.jpg

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5 hours ago, Fabia130vRS said:

Was this out of a ebay auction? I have bid this also, but didnt want to pay over 40€. Lost that one. 😄

Yeah, that must have been me! :ph34r:

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On friday, this arrived 

IMG_20180805_225053_zpsp86qdswn.jpg

I guess the long one's i just cut if i need some shorter one's

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On 8/5/2018 at 10:16 PM, bjorklo said:

On friday, this arrived 

IMG_20180805_225053_zpsp86qdswn.jpg

I guess the long one's i just cut if i need some shorter one's

I'm impressed 😃

I've been looking for some 3x10mm titanium screws for ages!

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Spotted this on Facebook Marketplace last week. A freshly rebuilt M02 rolling chassis :) Priced for less than I expected so I bought it and it arrived a couple of days ago :) 

DYQFiL4.jpg

rzv9loy.jpg

6ZEDx4l.jpg

I've got some plans for it, but all will be revealed in good time :)

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I know I will be unliked for posting this but I will not purchase a $700-$1000 Bruiser. Would love to get one but I have things in life that need that 1K. So I have an HG-P407 RTR right now and an HG-P407A Kit en-route to my house. The truck needs TLC before running, Diffs and axles greased, Transmission has to be lubed also, Shocks need oil and to have the o rings replaced. Good luck getting the drive shafts of red thread lock abound. Runs and shifts good will do me fine.

HG-P407.jpg

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Well this one i had to get myself, so No Postman involved today. 

Screenshot_20180808_172616_zps7pfpfyft.j

Screenshot_20180808_172828_zpsziyptpdk.j

This one will stay nib. 

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Apparantly these are vintage nowadays and hard to find........ sweet, now I'm in two minds to open them and use them on my Striker?!

jEHlUe6.jpg

IN other news... a new brushed motor for my Striker..... now I've never soldered motor wires to a motor before.... do I need to solder to these tabs here....however the tab is split in two parts..... one thick and one thin... I presume I need the wider part... and red wire to the positive tab too? (Is it correct as I'm holding the wires to the tabs?)

Do I need to worry about the Direction arrow??

UzMSwXe.jpg

8Yuw46N.jpg

63A0R2d.jpg

 

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4 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

 

 

 

I would take a wider soldering tip, a bit of solder in the gaps, and the wires inside the gap. If wire positive (+) goes on the positive side the rotation will be as supposed. 

 

A5CF3AAC-BB3C-48AD-9CF3-53FF0663E10E-793-000001DC3752E861.jpeg

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6 hours ago, Fabia130vRS said:

I would take a wider soldering tip, a bit of solder in the gaps, and the wires inside the gap. If wire positive (+) goes on the positive side the rotation will be as supposed. 

 

A5CF3AAC-BB3C-48AD-9CF3-53FF0663E10E-793-000001DC3752E861.jpeg

Ok cheers, so get the wires soldered up in between the gaps with solder all around... will post back my results when I try it.

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Went yesteday with my buddy who owns a F104 v2. For a speed run test, since the SkyRC GPS arrived.

I was not suprised with the result. My f103 went 87km/h, FDR is 2.65 on 2s' 2543kv 13,5T with timing to 30deg. My buddy with the V2, he owns a skyrc cheetah 13,5T 2590kv on 3s, with FDR 1.89. Havent tried his yet.

tonight I will max out all the timings and make my entry in speed runs. :P

expecting to hit 100km/h tonight, and a proper video.

 

a bit of Initial D music hah

 

 

IMG_0204.JPG

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7 hours ago, Fabia130vRS said:

Went yesteday with my buddy who owns a F104 v2. For a speed run test, since the SkyRC GPS arrived.

I was not suprised with the result. My f103 went 87km/h, FDR is 2.65 on 2s' 2543kv 13,5T with timing to 30deg. My buddy with the V2, he owns a skyrc cheetah 13,5T 2590kv on 3s, with FDR 1.89. Havent tried his yet.

tonight I will max out all the timings and make my entry in speed runs. :P

expecting to hit 100km/h tonight, and a proper video.

 

a bit of Initial D music hah

 

 

IMG_0204.JPG

thats a great video. you need to enter that on jason1145 speed thread

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9 hours ago, Fabia130vRS said:

Went yesteday with my buddy who owns a F104 v2. For a speed run test, since the SkyRC GPS arrived.

I was not suprised with the result. My f103 went 87km/h, FDR is 2.65 on 2s' 2543kv 13,5T with timing to 30deg. My buddy with the V2, he owns a skyrc cheetah 13,5T 2590kv on 3s, with FDR 1.89. Havent tried his yet.

tonight I will max out all the timings and make my entry in speed runs. :P

expecting to hit 100km/h tonight, and a proper video.

 

a bit of Initial D music hah

 

 

IMG_0204.JPG

Awesome video and love the music too, like an 80’s teen movie 🍿 

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On 8/8/2018 at 1:40 PM, Jason1145 said:

 

IN other news... a new brushed motor for my Striker..... now I've never soldered motor wires to a motor before.... do I need to solder to these tabs here....however the tab is split in two parts..... one thick and one thin... I presume I need the wider part... and red wire to the positive tab too? (Is it correct as I'm holding the wires to the tabs?)

Do I need to worry about the Direction arrow??

UzMSwXe.jpg

8Yuw46N.jpg

63A0R2d.jpg

 

If you match the + with red, the direction should be same as the arrow.  (I'd still double-check with 1.5v AA battery)  

As for soldering, you don't necessarily have to use the smaller tab.  My wild-wild guess is that the tabs could be for the crimped connectors (I could be totally wrong because who'd use flimsy connectors like this?). 

732rtEO.jpg

Or it could be for certain types of capacitors like Tamiya did for the Bigwig motor.  A mini circuit board is placed between the two.  That's my wild conjecture #2.  Again, I could be wrong because Tamiya has its own special connectors and I haven't seen any capacitor that may fit those little tabs.  

0VJeyO7.jpg

When you solder wires at 90 degree angle, you can use the little tab like Fabia suggested.  If you know your motor's will be mounted sideways (like the Grasshopper) no need to have the wire sticking out to the side first and then go forward.  You can just solder them at 90 degrees to the motor axle.  Then the little tab can hold the wire while you solder.  

eaYKmNy.jpg

For the most part, I solder like below.  When not used, the little tabs are just like extra cooling fins.  

Conjecture #3 is that after soldering the wires, you can still use the little tabs for soldering capacitors, without messing with the bigger soldering job you already did.  Still a conjecture, because you can use the contacts on other end for capacitors.  

NuVTems.jpg

 

 

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2 hours ago, Juggular said:

If you match the + with red, the direction should be same as the arrow.  (I'd still double-check with 1.5v AA battery)  

As for soldering, you don't necessarily have to use the smaller tab.  My wild-wild guess is that the tabs could be for the crimped connectors (I could be totally wrong because who'd use flimsy connectors like this?). 

732rtEO.jpg

Or it could be for certain types of capacitors like Tamiya did for the Bigwig motor.  A mini circuit board is placed between the two.  That's my wild conjecture #2.  Again, I could be wrong because Tamiya has its own special connectors and I haven't seen any capacitor that may fit those little tabs.  

0VJeyO7.jpg

When you solder wires at 90 degree angle, you can use the little tab like Fabia suggested.  If you know your motor's will be mounted sideways (like the Grasshopper) no need to have the wire sticking out to the side first and then go forward.  You can just solder them at 90 degrees to the motor axle.  Then the little tab can hold the wire while you solder.  

eaYKmNy.jpg

For the most part, I solder like below.  When not used, the little tabs are just like extra cooling fins.  

Conjecture #3 is that after soldering the wires, you can still use the little tabs for soldering capacitors, without messing with the bigger soldering job you already did.  Still a conjecture, because you can use the contacts on other end for capacitors.  

NuVTems.jpg

 

 

Thanks a lot for the advice, I’ve had a play about today and will need to put the motor wires on 90 degrees.

This job will be done on Saturday afternoonas it’s the time my little one will take her nap - giving me time to get the dangerous solder iron out... hope it still works and that I left the roll of solder with it ;) 

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I went out for breakfast this morning and when I got back a box from eBay was waiting for me. I couldn't remember what I'd ordered but opened it up to be greeted by my M02 chassis extender to turn it into an M02L :)

MeqtsGo.jpg

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On 8/9/2018 at 7:52 PM, Juggular said:

If you match the + with red, the direction should be same as the arrow.  (I'd still double-check with 1.5v AA battery)  

As for soldering, you don't necessarily have to use the smaller tab.  My wild-wild guess is that the tabs could be for the crimped connectors (I could be totally wrong because who'd use flimsy connectors like this?). 

732rtEO.jpg

Or it could be for certain types of capacitors like Tamiya did for the Bigwig motor.  A mini circuit board is placed between the two.  That's my wild conjecture #2.  Again, I could be wrong because Tamiya has its own special connectors and I haven't seen any capacitor that may fit those little tabs.  

0VJeyO7.jpg

When you solder wires at 90 degree angle, you can use the little tab like Fabia suggested.  If you know your motor's will be mounted sideways (like the Grasshopper) no need to have the wire sticking out to the side first and then go forward.  You can just solder them at 90 degrees to the motor axle.  Then the little tab can hold the wire while you solder.  

eaYKmNy.jpg

For the most part, I solder like below.  When not used, the little tabs are just like extra cooling fins.  

Conjecture #3 is that after soldering the wires, you can still use the little tabs for soldering capacitors, without messing with the bigger soldering job you already did.  Still a conjecture, because you can use the contacts on other end for capacitors.  

NuVTems.jpg

 

 

Help!?

I soldered the red motor wire to the positive tab on the motor and the black wire to the negative, that sounds safe, but when installed in the Striker it runs the wrong way round!

(NOTE - ESC has no adjustability)

So I’ve got forward movement with forward throttle but it then goes straight into reverse with no brake.... and oppositely I have reverse with reverse input with brake feature :(

I can think of two fixes, please advise

1) unplug the red motor wire to red esc wire and swap with the black ones ( like brushless motors to change motor direction?)

2) unsolder the red and black motor wires from the motor and swap the wires onto opposite tabs - this would mean soldering black wire onto the positive tab though ( is that ok?)

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52 minutes ago, Jason1145 said:

Help!?

I soldered the red motor wire to the positive tab on the motor and the black wire to the negative, that sounds safe, but when installed in the Striker it runs the wrong way round!

(NOTE - ESC has no adjustability)

So I’ve got forward movement with forward throttle but it then goes straight into reverse with no brake.... and oppositely I have reverse with reverse input with brake feature :(

I can think of two fixes, please advise

1) unplug the red motor wire to red esc wire and swap with the black ones ( like brushless motors to change motor direction?)

2) unsolder the red and black motor wires from the motor and swap the wires onto opposite tabs - this would mean soldering black wire onto the positive tab though ( is that ok?)

Instead of soldering again, like you were saying, try switching the wire connection to ESC.  

If that doesn't do it, see if your Radio (not ESC) has "reverse" flipped.  Most radios have "reverse" function.  

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Juggular said:

Instead of soldering again, like you were saying, try switching the wire connection to ESC.  

If that doesn't do it, see if your Radio (not ESC) has "reverse" flipped.  Most radios have "reverse" function.  

 

 

 

I was brave and fixed it.... just tried swapping the red motor wire to the black esc wire and vice versa, and voila... it’s changed the direction of the motor and it now goes the correct way with forward and brake followed by reverse ( no more forward to immediate reverse).

The radio has reverse function but that just reversed the trigger inputs lol... no good at all... it was still spinning the motor the wrong way round but then also made the trigger finger inputs reversed too ;)

All fixed now thank you.. will update on my Striker thread the successful solder job on the motor :)

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My mate has a few of those motors, albeit with Etronix labels on them. On more than one occasion he has found them to be assembled incorrectly so that when wired up for normal rotation they spin backwards like yours did. Low price and strict quality control seldom co-occur it would seem...

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8 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

My mate has a few of those motors, albeit with Etronix labels on them. On more than one occasion he has found them to be assembled incorrectly so that when wired up for normal rotation they spin backwards like yours did. Low price and strict quality control seldom co-occur it would seem...

Yep next time I’ll just buy a neutral motor.

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