Alright, How Bad Is My Blackfoot?

[ARFFormula]

Restoration? It ran good 15 years ago, before my younger bro painted it

[ARFFormula]

What can I do? I would like to get it running

I have $$$ to do it now

[Shodog]

That's not that bad off.

Easy off oven cleaner will strip all that nasty paint.

Completely dissasemble the chassis and give it a good cleaning.

There are a lot of re-re parts for the frog on ebay that would help freshen the drivetraine.

An original set of tires might be pricey but a seto wild dagger tires which are identical to the old Monster beetle tires would work well on your resto.

[infernox]

That's not that bad off.

Easy off oven cleaner will strip all that nasty paint.

Completely dissasemble the chassis and give it a good cleaning.

There are a lot of re-re parts for the frog on ebay that would help freshen the drivetraine.

An original set of tires might be pricey but a seto wild dagger tires which are identical to the old Monster beetle tires would work well on your resto.

Its a blackfoot, just sand the body with some 400 grit then 800 then 1200 then 1600 then 2000 wet sanding paper. and respray, and then cover with some clear cote. and a slow soft buff.

and then yeah as shodog said, just dissasemble and see the damage, maybe its pristine on the inside. and you just need a good cleaning. to get the paint off the original tyres will be tough, better to source original tyres on the bay.

[Live Steam Mad]

Its a blackfoot, just sand the body with some 400 grit then 800 then 1200 then 1600 then 2000 wet sanding paper. and respray, and then cover with some clear cote. and a slow soft buff.

and then yeah as shodog said, just dissasemble and see the damage, maybe its pristine on the inside. and you just need a good cleaning. to get the paint off the original tyres will be tough, better to source original tyres on the bay.

Crikey I only reserve that kind of abuse for XLT and Scorcher clear windows that are deeply scratched. P400, P600, P800, P1000, P1200, P1500, and finally P2000, followed by Turtle Wax brand car polish makes the window clear and perfect again.

In the case of your BlackFoot body, Jim is right, Easy Off oven cleaner (Yellow label) strips the paint quite quickly, or use E-Safe Model Paint Stripper from Burbank (House Of Hobbies), in California, it's completely safe on Styrene shells.

Easy Off contains NaOH and you must wear gloves. Usual disclaimer.

I NEVER sand body shells if I can help it.

Cheers

Alistair G.

[Shodog]

Sanding would be a ton of work. in addition all the heat generated by the sanding would just futher inbedd the paint into the plastic.

As for polishing instead of painting, Paint will hide a multitude of sins and will look much better than a polish and clear coat.

[ARFFormula]

Thanks for the replys everyone. Yep, the body is there, but has nasty paint and is far from perfect...a busted driver's side front fender, jagged passenger side rear fender and missing a few bolt/nuts here and there.

I got it as a birthday present (I think it was around 1988 or 1989), I assembled it and it ran good I suppose. The rear gears kept stipping out. My younger brother took it over after I left in 1992, he used it a bit, then it sat on my mom's shelf in her basement for the last 14 or 15 years, give or take. Supposidly, the controller is still in the atic somewhere, But I live in California, and my mom is in Maryland...so it is kinda hard to reach it.

So, I need a new controller and servos, maybe a rear tranny and axles and maybe some other electrical wiring as it just looks old. Plus battery and charger. No other parts are broken, maybe need to be tightend up, like the stearing. The shocks look ok...they work. It is missing a few nuts/bolts.

The problem is I would like to get it running in as original condition as possible, BUT I put this together MANY years ago and is lost in my memory.

So, are there any PDF files of the original manual? Like I said, get it running, then beef it up a bit with more modern/robust parts. Thanks

[Chilihook]

Found this site for downloadable manuals:

http://www.modelbuild.co.uk/manuals.html

Blackfoot is model number 58058.

Good luck with your resto!

[ARFFormula]

Thanks, Chilihook good find

I tore it down yesterday, everything is there, except a few screws/fasteners mostly in the suspension. So I got to track those down. I'm not worried about getting it picture perfect, but running good.

The tranny and axels looked good IMO, no slop and not worn. The suspension had some bolts missing, and others loose. The only thing I saw bad was the driver's side body mount, it seams like it is stripped, so a repair is needed.

I went ahead a bought some new things for it...

A.I. Runner Plus ESC, Airtronics Blazer Sport radio system, Traxxas Ultra shocks(all 4 shocks), Pro-Max Sport/Race Ni-MH battey and Delta Base Pro Peak charger, and a new motor...Trinity Dragon Spec 19(I hope it aint too much for it, but I think it is) What do you all think?

The body had at least three coats of paint, and I am still trying to get it off. The last coat is tough, but I'd like to get it down to the bare plastic, I am using ez off. I'm gonna apply it tommorrow.

All the original parts I am going to keep and try to restore. Once I get it running, I'll break it down again and detail it.

[Old Skool]

Hi,

I have a lot of 2.2 wheels and tires if your you need them. I know I have a near mint set of original ones. Drop me a PM and I can send Pics.

Dale

[ARFFormula]

It's running, with the old 540 original motor and trans/axels.

The problem...it's running AWESOME in reverse(smooth and flawless, no grinding...just tires moving), but going forward it is grinding. If I pull the trottle EASY, it is ok, but a little too much throttle and it grinds/skips. Any help?

Updated pics , I got alot of the paint off, but it needs some detail

Thanks for the help you all

[secretasianman]

Is the grinding noise the signature frog/brat/blackfoot/beetle/etc gearbox noise? It's possible that it's grinding forward and not in reverse because there's enough wear to disengage the gear mesh of the diff bevels when moving forward against the weight of the car, yet not enough to disengage when the tranny is pulling it. rebuilding the gear case and making sure it's tight might alleviate the problem. While it's open, try gently flexing (maybe only by .5 mm) the case surrounding the diff inward to help eliminate the tranny slack. A properly sized washer inside the case behind the left side drive bevel (md9) to close the gap may also work if flexing fails you.

Otherwise, awesome so far! It's good to see paint stripping methods succeed. After trying Floquil Easy-Lift-Off (model paint remover) on a Mounty shell, I never revisited the process as it weakened (and broke) the plastic where stress had already made its mark around two screw holes.

[Live Steam Mad]

Otherwise, awesome so far! It's good to see paint stripping methods succeed. After trying Floquil Easy-Lift-Off (model paint remover) on a Mounty shell, I never revisited the process as it weakened (and broke) the plastic where stress had already made its mark around two screw holes.

Oh dear, that's not good. Easy Off oven cleaner (Yellow label) does make Tamiya Styrene bodies (Sand Scorcher white, very hard, body for example) go a little yellow and softens the plastic a little BUT if you wash it off and wait about a few hours you will find that the Styrene has returned completely back to FULL hardness. E-Safe Model Paint Stripper does not do anything to Styrene that I can detect, for example I left a Marui Golden Eagle shell (white Styrene) in the stuff for many hours, repeated over many weeks, and nothing happened to it whatsoever apart from paint removal which was more effective than I had ever seen before.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[secretasianman]

Oh dear, that's not good. Easy Off oven cleaner (Yellow label) does make Tamiya Styrene bodies (Sand Scorcher white, very hard, body for example) go a little yellow and softens the plastic a little BUT if you wash it off and wait about a few hours you will find that the Styrene has returned completely back to FULL hardness. E-Safe Model Paint Stripper does not do anything to Styrene that I can detect, for example I left a Marui Golden Eagle shell (white Styrene) in the stuff for many hours, repeated over many weeks, and nothing happened to it whatsoever apart from paint removal which was more effective than I had ever seen before.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

it was no biggie, I think the stripper leaked into some stress cracks around screw holes or they were previously broken/glued together because the broken parts just fell off. Water under a bridge anyway - I was able to find an unpainted runner to finish.

[ARFFormula]

I have not stripped it down to the carcus, but cleaned it up a bit. The wheels and tires are getting stripped of the paint and looking pretty good.

Here is a pic of the guts, for now. Keep in mind I have all the original parts

[Willus]

I have not stripped it down to the carcus, but cleaned it up a bit. The wheels and tires are getting stripped of the paint and looking pretty good.

Here is a pic of the guts, for now. Keep in mind I have all the original parts

Your Blackfoot is in much better condition than mine was. For some reason, my mother stored it out in the backyard and every metal surface was covered in rust. Thank god for the sealed gearbox tho... it was pristine in there and still had the original grease I put in there from 1986 or 87!! Luckily, I was able to restore it and got it running only to have the tip of the body post break. :-(

I see that you have locknuts keeping you body down. I will have to try that since this part seems to cost a fortune on ebay. Goodluck with you restoration.

Long live Blackfoot!

[TAZ-NZ]

I have not stripped it down to the carcus, but cleaned it up a bit. The wheels and tires are getting stripped of the paint and looking pretty good.

Here is a pic of the guts, for now. Keep in mind I have all the original parts

Just a couple of tips, from someone who just about done it all, when it come to orginal blackfoot/Mudblaster chassis.

1) There is a space inside the chassis foward of the main battery, underneath the aluminum MSC plate designed to house your 4x AA battery brick, just remove the main battery and insert the AA-battery brick via the battery door, it should can slide in and forwars a tilt forwards into place. (this helps lower the center of gravity and helps prevent roll overs when corning at speed.)

2) Look at picking up a King/Supet Blackfoot "B" parts tree, and replacing the orginal aluminum MSC with the B1 part (cut of the mounts for the MSC since your using a ESC) and replace the orginal Servo cover with the B10 part. The new version of the servo cover bolts to the MSC mount at the back and act as a brace for the front shock tower, a common failure failure point on this chassis that expense to replace. (it cheaper to pick up a B-tree for $18-20 USB from E-bay than trying to replace orginal J tree when it breaks)

3) Your diff gear are trashed, no question about it. Get a new set of replacement bevel gears for a Re-release Frog/Brat, you can get them for as little as $7+ shipping on ebay. (get two sets infact your'll need them)

4) Get yourself a set of "Frog Universal Drive Shalfs, then apply Oldfrogshot's screw mod to the drive cups, this stops the drive cups seperating and eating the bevel gears. (may look expensive but take it from someone on there 5th or 6th set of bevel gears, it's worth every cent and then some)

5) Since your running an ESC, look at centering your steering servo like in this picture below, it will improve handling noticable, but will require you purchasing some threaded rod and cutting it to lenght. (Makes the truck turn the equally well in both directions)

6) Replace all the plastic bushes with real bearing, helps preformance and handling alot. (worn bushes make for floppy wheels and greater friction on the axels)

Other things to look at are a CRP adjustable motor mount and a full set of Frog transmission gears so you can adjust your gear ratios, and try hunting down a set of CRP heavy duty steering uprights to replace the orginal K1,K8 parts (these are hard to come by and tend to be expensive but as the orginals break often and are hard to find new, it's better to get something that will last.) Also look at picking up a Frog/Brat re-release C-tree your rear swing arms C6,C9 will fail sooner or later and it's a handy to have the spares laying around.

Almost forgot, I found epoxy putty works well as a way out repairing the damaged hard bodies, one of my Blackfoot bodies way damaged it the same place as your and I repaired it this way. (model it to the basic shape let in set for a day and they sand to the final shape, then paint)

[ARFFormula]

Thanks TAZ-NZ

I was fortunate enough to get a Frog tranny rebuild kit from ebay and I just got finished putting it together. With the Trinity Komodo Dragon 19T motor, it ran AWESOME Donuts are very easy and it is surprisingly fast!

You mentioned putting the battery pack forward of the battery...it looks like it will fit perfect...thanks for the advise

I stripped most of the paint off, I think I will just paint the body flat black and try to locate some Blackfoot decals. Here are pics from today:

[ARFFormula]

Your Blackfoot is in much better condition than mine was. For some reason, my mother stored it out in the backyard and every metal surface was covered in rust. Thank god for the sealed gearbox tho... it was pristine in there and still had the original grease I put in there from 1986 or 87!! Luckily, I was able to restore it and got it running only to have the tip of the body post break. :-(

I see that you have locknuts keeping you body down. I will have to try that since this part seems to cost a fortune on ebay. Goodluck with you restoration.

Long live Blackfoot!

Willus, yep, I had 2 lock screws lying around and they fit pretty good, still need the third one. Post pics of your rig dude

[Chilihook]

That looks really nice! Come a long way since you first posted it.

A Blackfoot is definitely on my shortlist for the future.

Again, nice work!!

[TAZ-NZ]

Thanks TAZ-NZ

I was fortunate enough to get a Frog tranny rebuild kit from ebay and I just got finished putting it together. With the Trinity Komodo Dragon 19T motor, it ran AWESOME Donuts are very easy and it is surprisingly fast!

You mentioned putting the battery pack forward of the battery...it looks like it will fit perfect...thanks for the advise

I stripped most of the paint off, I think I will just paint the body flat black and try to locate some Blackfoot decals. Here are pics from today:

It looking good, come a long way from where it started, be good to see it when your finished.

Yeah they can really get up and go, but the transmission was never designed for modern motors, I suggest doing the screw mod I linked in my other reply as soon as possible even if you keep the stock axel and drive cups. I'm running a 22 turn, 550 can, Kyosho Magnetic Mayhem with ball bearing mod, with a custom 8.4volt bump pack (pictured below), and a Hitec EZN-R Pro ESC, the combo produces huge torgue and reduces a stock diffs to rubbish in under 5 minutes of run time. (Making the screw mod a must in my book of anyone running one of these transmissions)

Here's a picture of my Blackfoot & Chassis as of the last time I took pictures. (I've tried selling it a couple of times, but no ones offer me enough to part with it yet.)

In regards to the broken body mounts, to make life easier removing the body, a good trick is to thread a screw part way into the body post, then cut of the head of the screw and drill a small hole though the screw shalf near the top, this way you can place body over the screw shalfs and then use standard body clips to hold everything it place. It makes the removing the body easy and you don't have the problem of the body posts stripping out on the inside and the screws becoming loose.

[ARFFormula]

Thanks for the tips. I think I will try that screw mod soon, and I will not run it too much until I do so. Hopefully I have a Frog drivetrain coming soon, with the dogbones.

I just finished painting it, it actually is starting to look really good. It is no shelf queen and is far from perfect, but it will be a good looking runner

[TAZ-NZ]

Thanks for the tips. I think I will try that screw mod soon, and I will not run it too much until I do so. Hopefully I have a Frog drivetrain coming soon, with the dogbones.

I just finished painting it, it actually is starting to look really good. It is no shelf queen and is far from perfect, but it will be a good looking runner

Looks great, It really come a long way, are the tires new, or did you use something to bring them up looking that good ?

And who cares if it's not shelf queen they're built to be run no sit on display, my Blackfoot only looks that good because it's barely been run since I built it. My Mudblaster on the other hand was built to be bashed and was been, It still hasn't been painted becuase it whould end up looking more like your blackfoot started out looking with my hopeless painting skills.

Just be careful you might get the bug, and end up replacing every part on car with new or aftermarket parts, I build my mudblaster when there were no Re-releases the H-tree alone could cost $100 USD on ebay back then, I started with a trashed chassis and a mint body basically, and about 4 chassis later I have a basically all new Mudblaster, I could have purchased one NIB for less, but it wouldn't have been half the fun it was to hunt down all the parts. That's why I gave you list if tips & moids to save you learning what I did the hard way, many of the parts are easy to come by now, but there are a few like the front shock tower that are getting hard to find new, so you need to put a little more care into looking after them.

[ARFFormula]

The tires and wheels are the same ones, I just used ez-off. There is still some paint on them, but they dont look too bad...and I don't want to use iso-alc to get the rest of the paint off.