Ff01

[Jonny_3]

Hi, I am new to this hobby and I need some advice on how to make my FF01 faster. I know its not the best chassis but I have had it for years and I love it. The handling is ok and the acceleration is very fast, but when I get to a straight run it barley makes 20 mph. I was wondering if there are ways to make it faster? My gears are 24t pinion and 66t spur which I believe is 6.6:1. I have an rs-540 sport tuned motor and an TEU-101BK esc. Im thinking of getting a super stock motor type BZ. Is this too hot for my esc?

So any suggestions and tips on how to get abit more speed out of it please let me know, thanks.

[Butler]

I think the SuperStock motors are borderline for that ESC. But with 2wd and not being in the blazing sun you'll probably be fine. Go for the RZ, not the BZ, less torque, more revs, better suited to a FF01.

I run the RZ in my M03.

[94eg!]

I just had a look at the manual, and it would seem you still have at least one more options in larger pinions. With the smaller 66T spur, you can definitely fit the 25T pinion. The interesting thing is that it would seem that a 26, 27, 28 and even 29T might fit as well (only with 66T spur). The only problem is that I don't think anybody even makes 0.6 module pinions in those sizes...

Another option would be to fit larger diameter tires. This works the same way...

If you want speed, get the RZ motor. The TZ and BZ both have lower rpm by 1000. The BZ has the least current draw though, which might be better for the 101BK...

[Jonny_3]

Ok thanks, I live in wales which is a cold country so it shouldn't be too bad. It is 2 degrees celcius right now I'll look at the RZ on the internet at the prices soon. Does anyone else have any suggestions on how to make it faster?

[Jonny_3]

I just had a look at the manual, and it would seem you still have at least one more options in larger pinions. With the smaller 66T spur, you can definitely fit the 25T pinion. The interesting thing is that it would seem that a 26, 27, 28 and even 29T might fit as well (only with 66T spur). The only problem is that I don't think anybody even makes 0.6 module pinions in those sizes...

Another option would be to fit larger diameter tires. This works the same way...

If you want speed, get the RZ motor. The TZ and BZ both have lower rpm by 1000. The BZ has the least current draw though, which might be better for the 101BK...

Yea I think the highest pinion i can get is a 25t. Also where could I get larger wheels that fit my car?

I thought the BZ has 26500 rpm and the RZ has 23000 rpm?

[_miga_]

Ok thanks, I live in wales which is a cold country so it shouldn't be too bad. It is 2 degrees celcius right now I'll look at the RZ on the internet at the prices soon. Does anyone else have any suggestions on how to make it faster?

do you have already ball bearing? originally the ff01 was delivered without ball bearings.

of course a good battery pack will have much more punch, power and a higher voltage than an cheap one.

cleaning the car and ball bearings is a must, too

[Jonny_3]

I don't know if I have ball bearings on it. How do I find out? Sorry but I am very new to this hobby. The car was originaly my brothers but he is 22 now and is too old for it. I will buy a good battery pack for my car. I may get an asmann Nimh 3500 mah battery.

So if I get a super stock motor type RZ and a new battery, will the esc be able to manage and roughly how fast will it go? Also will the gears get damaged? bearing in mind that I live in quite a cold country. Thanks, Jonny

PS. I clean and check my car after every run

[94eg!]

How do I find out?

You'll have to take it apart to see...

I thought the BZ has 26500 rpm and the RZ has 23000 rpm?

RPM at no load:

RZ 27,500 @ 7.2v

TZ 26,500 @ 7.2v

BZ 26,500 @ 7.2v

[Jonny_3]

You'll have to take it apart to see...

RPM at no load:

RZ 27,500 @ 7.2v

TZ 26,500 @ 7.2v

BZ 26,500 @ 7.2v

I have completley dismantled the car before but I haven't taken appart the differential. Would they be in there?

PS. Thanks for the info on the motors I will get the RZ seeing as it looks the best and has the most rpm

[Butler]

The car was originaly my brothers but he is 22 now and is too old for it.

LOL. You might be wrong there.

[Jonny_3]

LOL. You might be wrong there.

I ment that he feels hes to old for it. He knows that adults do it. In fact more adults do it that kids probably because its more about improving and adjusting things. But I didn't mean he literally got to old for it:P

Anyway as I said earlier if I get a super stock motor type RZ and a new battery, will the esc be able to manage? Thanks

[OCD]

You might be getting a bit ahead of yourself with the RZ motor - Learning what and where the bearings are is far more important than motor/pinion combinations..

Bearings, usually made of metal or plastic, are the replaceable surfaces that rotating parts rub against. There are bearings in and around nearly every gear, shaft, or axle in your car. Tamiya normally includes plastic bearings with their kits; metal ball bearings would be the upgrade replacement for them.

To see is your car has either metal or plastic bearings, remove one of the wheels and take a gander art what the axle is riding on. Is it white plastic, or metal?

-Steve

[Jonny_3]

You might be getting a bit ahead of yourself with the RZ motor - Learning what and where the bearings are is far more important than motor/pinion combinations..

Bearings, usually made of metal or plastic, are the replaceable surfaces that rotating parts rub against. There are bearings in and around nearly every gear, shaft, or axle in your car. Tamiya normally includes plastic bearings with their kits; metal ball bearings would be the upgrade replacement for them.

To see is your car has either metal or plastic bearings, remove one of the wheels and take a gander art what the axle is riding on. Is it white plastic, or metal?

-Steve

Ok i'll describe to you what I see when I take my wheel off. First, I see a hexagon wheel hub then when I take that off it is held on by a pin. Then the bule plastic front upright. Inside the upright there is a little cup which the drive shaft slots onto. Then I slide the metal drive shaft out witch is 2" long and then I see another metal driveshaft cup. The driveshaft cup is joined onto the differential. The diff spur gear is plastic But it has metal ball bearings inside it and metal plates etc. Although there are plastic bearings inside the uprights. They are just white plastic rings or dougnuts.

Apart from that I just had an insident with the car. The stupid people that live opposite my house let there dog run loose. Ofcourse the dog started to chase it lol. He has chewed my shell up lol. Thankfully it was only the shell that got damaged.

[Butler]

Replace the white plastic donuts for metal ball bearings. Check the manual, it will show you where the bearings need to go. They replace the white donuts.

[Jonny_3]

Ok, thanks for the info. Once I get metal ones will my car be suitable or an RZ motor then? Whats so good about the metal bearings? Can they put up with more speed?

Jonny

[_miga_]

Ok, thanks for the info. Once I get metal ones will my car be suitable or an RZ motor then? Whats so good about the metal bearings? Can they put up with more speed?

Jonny

a car with ball bearing got more top speed and more running time, because of less friction, but they

need more attention than friction bearings and must be cleaned after a few runnings.

Ball Bearings should be the first thing, when tuning a car (when it only got friction bearings)

[Jonny_3]

So friction bearings are just those plastic ones with no balls in them. So I should get METAL BALL BEARINGS. Also the battery I have is a Tamiya RC 1400 SP racing pack. I know this is a rubbish one but how much difference will a 3500 mah battery make?

[_miga_]

So friction bearings are just those plastic ones with no balls in them. So I should get METAL BALL BEARINGS. Also the battery I have is a Tamiya RC 1400 SP racing pack. I know this is a rubbish one but how much difference will a 3500 mah battery make?

usually you can buy a set of ball bearings for those cars, but i don't know if those sets are available anymore, because the ff01 is an old chassis.

You can buy single ball bearings, too but this is more expensive and you need to know the bearings size, but the manual should help, too

With a 3500mah battery you will get the 2,5 times more running time. Depending on it's average voltage it might get more speed, too.

Usually the good (and more expensive) batteries have more average voltage than older batteries

[Lemming]

usually you can buy a set of ball bearings for those cars, but i don't know if those sets are available anymore, because the ff01 is an old chassis.

You can buy single ball bearings, too but this is more expensive and you need to know the bearings size, but the manual should help, too

With a 3500mah battery you will get the 2,5 times more running time. Depending on it's average voltage it might get more speed, too.

Usually the good (and more expensive) batteries have more average voltage than older batteries

You also need to make sure your charger is suitable for the type of battery you buy. For example your 1400 is a nicd battery, the 3500 should be a nimh. You need a reasonable nimh compatible charger, so make sure of this otherwise you would kill the new pack.

As well as extended run times with the new battery, you should see speed increases and power increases due to the newer type cells.

Bearing sets are quite simple for the FF-01 and alan041049 on Ebay sorted me a full set of bearings for my FF-01. If in doubt, look up the manual on here, then email him what you want and he will make you up a set. A full set of ball bearings will also result in higher speeds, better run-times and generally a better running car.

I am running a Novak SS5800 brushless in my FF-01, but even that isn't really that fast (considering the motor does 42,500rpm plus) compared to a lot of other vehicles (my Top Force with the same motor is good for 35mph approx). Then again, it is an older vehicle and behaves superbly for front wheel drive. Much more power would be pointless, hence why real cars are generally not front wheel drive above a certain power band (250bhp or thereabouts).

Cheers

Steve

[Jonny_3]

Yes, I have a really good charger. It charges both NiCad and NiMh batteries. It also charges the batteries in 30 mins but I heard that I should trickle the battery for the first few times.

As for the ball bearings I will look up alan041049 on ebay and hopfully he can supply me with the right size bearings. I think they are 1150 size ball bearings.

Cheers, Jonny

[Lemming]

Yes, I have a really good charger. It charges both NiCad and NiMh batteries. It also charges the batteries in 30 mins but I heard that I should trickle the battery for the first few times.

As for the ball bearings I will look up alan041049 on ebay and hopfully he can supply me with the right size bearings. I think they are 1150 size ball bearings.

Cheers, Jonny

Just from memory, I think there are some much larger ones in the front hubs than there are elsewhere on the car...

Off to hunt down the manual - back in 5

[Lemming]

OK then...

I have the Volvo 850 BTCC (Tamiya number 83183) chassis which is an FF-01

Here are the bearings from the manual (linked) to do a full car including gearbox:

Parts Bag A:

1150 x 3 (MA14 in the manual)

850 x 3 (MA15 in the manual)

Parts Bag B:

1520 x 2 (MB9 in the manual)

Parts Bag D:

1150 x 4 (MA14 in the manual)

1260 x 2 (MD12 in the manual)

So, you need:

850 x 3

1150 x 7

1260 x 2

1520 x 2

Anyone else care to correct that, just in case I am wrong anywhere...

Cheers

Steve

EDIT: What charger is it? 30 mins for a 3500nimh would be too short really... I had a Ripmax Pro Peak, but it was absolutely useless. Changed to a BMI Digipeak (now not available in AC/DC version) and had perfect charges ever since. Post what you have and people can maybe give you some pointers

[Jonny_3]

So, you need:

850 x 3

1150 x 7

1260 x 2

1520 x 2

Anyone else care to correct that, just in case I am wrong anywhere...

Cheers

Steve

EDIT: What charger is it? 30 mins for a 3500nimh would be too short really... I had a Ripmax Pro Peak, but it was absolutely useless. Changed to a BMI Digipeak (now not available in AC/DC version) and had perfect charges ever since. Post what you have and people can maybe give you some pointers

Thanks for giving me me amounts and sizes of the bearings I need, you've made it clear for me. I do have the manual but it is mostly japanese. Ball bearings are really expensive! Hopefuly I can get them off alan041049 on ebay for cheaper. The charger I got is an as-mann one. I dont know if it will charge a 3500NiMh in 30 minutes but there is a button you press on the charger to make it go fast, and in brackets it says (30 minutes), Jonny

[Lemming]

I would find out the model number of the charger, and then post it (should be on the label) as I would be concerned that it would have the same issues as my Ripmax one...

Glad I could help with the bearings though

[Jonny_3]

I would find out the model number of the charger, and then post it (should be on the label) as I would be concerned that it would have the same issues as my Ripmax one...

Glad I could help with the bearings though

It says that the part no. is 9684005 I dont know if this is the right number but give it a try. Again thanks for the help