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VinceVegaUK

Help - Fixing A Stripped Thread On Your Plastic Chassis

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I have come across this as a posable solution to fixing stripped threads (other than the super glue method) but wanted to ask if anyone has use it or has some lying around they could test. The plastic on most Tamiya chassis, (particularly my TT01 which needs repair) is made of ABS plastic. I have emailed the manufacturer for further info if it can be used on ABS plastic but the packaging says it can be used on plastic apart from PP, PE, and PT?? plastic. I presume it can as most plstic DIY pipes are made from ABS plastic.

If i do use it i'm just not sure what's the best way, do i fill the hole and set in the screw and allow to set or fill in the hole, allow to set then screw (may need a pilot hole, so is it easily drilled?)

Hope someone can help

Later

VV

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Hi

ive always used an ear cotton bud, it can be cut down to suit 1st ,then use a liitle super glue then slide it in the hole .

leave to dry for a little while then put the screw back in..

just my trick but im sure theres more......if you use the stuff your talking about id fill the hole leave it to set then drill the hole to suit , as long as you drill the hole central, or if unsure dont fill it to the brim leave a little then you know the holes were it should be...

just my 2p's worth

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;) Hi Guys, Loctite Putty must be very similar to Milliput Epoxy Putty which I use a lot, comes in various colours, sets like rock and it can be sawn, tapped, drilled and painted etc etc! Yes it will stick like glue to ABS.

The only thing you might find if you fill the hole with putty and then retap it you will be left with a very thin hard Putty liner within the slightly softer ABS and this may not be able to be tightened as much or as often as the original solid ABS...

Much better all round is the "caddy shack cotton bud system" :D Which seems to me to be a brilliant idea! I would consider using Polyweld type glue, which would "melt" the cotton bud stick onto the ABS but superglue will work fine! :o

However you repair it, always allow the repair to dry before replacing screw, otherwise you will never get it out!

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Hi

ive always used an ear cotton bud, it can be cut down to suit 1st ,then use a liitle super glue then slide it in the hole .

leave to dry for a little while then put the screw back in..

just my trick but im sure theres more......if you use the stuff your talking about id fill the hole leave it to set then drill the hole to suit , as long as you drill the hole central, or if unsure dont fill it to the brim leave a little then you know the holes were it should be...

just my 2p's worth

Nice idea i will check the size difference out on the cotton bud and get some super glue gel (less messy) today. The two screw holes i have threaded are on the top front gearbox cover for my TT-01, i know i can get a new tub Chassis for about 10 but then this could casue more threading possabilities due to me having to remove eveything and put it on the other tub :-s

I caused the threading when fitting my Alu Prop but im now waiting on a one way front Diff so i might wait till it arrives and try the repair.

Thanks for the tips

Later

VV

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Hi again

It dont matter about the hole size just add a bit more glue or even splice the cotton bud if you wanted trust me it works lol , if you ever had a hpi savage this is needed on most of there plastic holes as there plastic it worse than tamiya's lol, if it hold up to a savage running a sts 28 lump and loads of abuse im sure you guys will be more than happy using it on a electric car lol..

Glad you like the tip <_<

C.H

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Hi again

It dont matter about the hole size just add a bit more glue or even splice the cotton bud if you wanted trust me it works lol , if you ever had a hpi savage this is needed on most of there plastic holes as there plastic it worse than tamiya's lol, if it hold up to a savage running a sts 28 lump and loads of abuse im sure you guys will be more than happy using it on a electric car lol..

Glad you like the tip :D

C.H

Awesome tip this works amazingly well!

I have been testing it on a spare MSC mount that I dont need. At fist i pulled the cotton bud stem out the hole after it had been setting for 4hours to test if it was ok but with a firm pull it came out of the whole :-s but then when i put it back in with no additional glue applied (and was dry to touch) and left it over night it bonded solid. I think it just need to dry a bit more but maybe I gave it a more air to help it bond.

I'm now going to do it on the chassis.

Thanks

VV

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:) Hiya Guys, I have just started a King Hauler chassis and the inevitable happened on one of the rails...

:o insert expletive here :o

I used to use just super glue before when this happened and it does work well but the cotton bud "rawplug" really does give a great "bite"! I cant over tighten it! :P

It's so good that you could do the lot like this! Stronger than threadlock!

;) Caddy Shack, thanks mate! ;)

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:D Hiya Guys, I have just started a King Hauler chassis and the inevitable happened on one of the rails...

:o insert expletive here :o

I used to use just super glue before when this happened and it does work well but the cotton bud "rawplug" really does give a great "bite"! I cant over tighten it! ;)

It's so good that you could do the lot like this! Stronger than threadlock!

:) Caddy Shack, thanks mate! ;)

Tis an awsome tip, for me it worked great on a test bit of plastic but when i came to use it on the final bit the cotton bud was too large for the hole. I ended up using 3.5x16mm screws rather then the 3x12mm, the 12mm was way to short anyway and the .5 width re-bored the thread.

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The TT-01 chassis is so cheap ($10 or less on ebay/Tower Hobbies) I think you would be better off just replacing it if you have multiple screw holes that have stripped. These are self tapping so you need to be really careful that you do not go too far when you are tightening the screw.

I keep around a spare TT-01 chassis, but I am usually pretty careful and have yet to strip a chassis again. However the first TT-01 that I built the gearbox would at times come loose and make for a really messy track run.

I would rather replace than patch the TT-01 chassis, but thast my take on it.

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The way not to strip a thread is to turn the screw anti clockwise in the hole first.You then feel a "click" when it gets to the start of the thread and it drives back in where it should.

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Just a quick heads up guys regards the cotton bud technique (great idea by the way...!). Some cyanoacrylates can react with cotton (I think it is the cellulose in the cotton) and give off some nasty fumes that will sting your eyes something chronic (I know, I've had it happen and it's not nice) so apply glue in a well ventilated area - ideally a bit of a draught running through to carry any fumes away from you.

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Just a quick heads up guys regards the cotton bud technique (great idea by the way...!). Some cyanoacrylates can react with cotton (I think it is the cellulose in the cotton) and give off some nasty fumes that will sting your eyes something chronic (I know, I've had it happen and it's not nice) so apply glue in a well ventilated area - ideally a bit of a draught running through to carry any fumes away from you.

Wow, thats good to know!

I use small strips of plasticard pushed into the hole with 'polyweld' and then screw into that. But polyweld too gives off real nasty fumes. Breath in even a small amount and you're in for a shock! It really is the worst fume I've experienced, but, when used with caution I find to be unbeatable in some circumstances!! :lol:

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