Rc Crawler Tlt Build By A Newby

[infernox 0]

TLT Rockcrawler Build Thread by a newby rockcrawler builder for Newby Rockcralwer builders.

When i saw what certain RC rockcrawlers could do i wanted one and so started the search and the

research.

After doing research to find a suitable base for my crawler as I didnt have the funds to buy a

RTR crawler and being a bit of a Tamiya Nut, I decided on giong for a Tamiya LIttle Gear TLT

Rock Buster, these were on sale at that time and a member of TamiyaClub offered to ship one to

me as you could only buy from Tamiya USA if you stayed there.

3 Weeks later and my TLT arrived.

In the beginning I didnt have huge plans for the car buy as I stared at it the feelings toward

a all out 12.5 inch crawler started to grow.

First off: To get accustomed to the parts and means of the TLT i built it as per manual spec

and it stood there doing nothing for a while.

As per BigAl from RCcrawler I then decided to go wider on the wheel base by using Tamiya Part

50808 (Black foot stub axles) whic would give me a total of 2 wheel hub (hex thingy in wheel)

extra width. I was advised that this was the correct amount of widening, due to the TLT being

low in any case and wider could mean more problems getting caught on rocks etc.

Also as per BigAl from RCCrawler bought a HPI Nitro RS4 Rear Drive Belt as it is roughly the

same size as the original belt but the same width (stronger and less likely to slip), but to

use it I needed to fit a tensioner (later more on this).

Chassis: Tamiya TLT (maybe importing a Junfac Tracer Kit)

Dampers: Stock until i can find Emax or Tmax or Clod Stock Dampers

Axles: TLT Locked axles using extra gear inside diff

4 Links: Custom using arrow shaft etc. (Will recieve new if using Tracer Kit)

Dogbone: Custom made (unless using Tracer Kit)

Motor: Dont know yet, might go for a Yokomo D1 Zero 35turn or a Integy 55T Lathe motor running

a 15T Pinion on stock 83T Spur (might go 85T Spur)

Gearbox: Stock TLT with tensioner on belt with stock ball diff.

Wheels: JunFac Mudlock Beadlock 2.2 Rims in Black (awaiting delivery)

Tyres: Undecided

Foam: Stock Tyre Foam, fronts will have extra BB inside to increase CG but not add to spinning

weight (more on this later)

ESC: Schumacher ESC or Novak GTX or LRP V 7.1

Battery: Standard Stick Pack mounted on rear Axle

*So Far parts gathered or used to finish truck:

Tamiya TLT, BlackFoot Stub Axles (the one which go into the wheel), RS4 Belt, Sport Tuned motor, ESC's, Arrow Shafts (for 4links), Arrow Inserts (for 4links),3mm Threaded Rod (for 4links). Motor Bearings (4mm inner Diameter, for belt tensioner), Various Screws and nuts for everything, wheels (mudlocks in the post).

*Making your new four link suspension:

First off you need some idea of how long you want the wheelbase to be. You need to make four of each lenght, two different lenghts are needed. I had some carbon arrows lying around and then went to the hunting store to buy insert which the threaded rod could go through. I had cut the arrow shaft to 98mm and 84mm respectively because this gave me a level axle with the standard TLT Eye ends (those rod ends with little round holes in them which can click into the ball ends)

Note: Use the stock EYE ends from the TLT kit as they are stonger than the aftermarket ones.

I then added the arrow inserts and used Tamiya CA Glue to make sure the were fixed into place. Pushed threaded rod through and cut about 1.4 cm longer than shaft. then trimmed the threader rod until the eye ends sat tight against the arrow shaft.

*Now to the rearranging of the suspension mounts etc on the axles:

These need to be rearranged due to the fact that I wont be using the existing cantilevel setup on the suspention. What I did was move the bottom mount to the top of the axle and the top to the inside. See pic for details.

*Stub (wheel) axle modification:

Problem with the Tamiya 50808 Wheel axles are the have a long cup which limits steering radius and they are longer (which is the point). With makes it longer I mean the hole for the pin is far away from the upright meaning youll have to fill that gap for the wheel to sit flush and remove slop from the steering or driving. For this part you will need a Dremel or drill with a cone shape grinding bit and a cutting disc (or hacksaw).

Remove +-2mm from the cup of the 50808 Stub axle to shorten it and allow for more steering limit. Then re-do the bevel inside the cup using the cone shaped grinding bit. Do it slowly and move it from side to side as you will reach the centre (back) of the cup with the grinding bits tip, which is a no no. Grind this slowly with no too much pressure untill the cup has roughly the same bevel as it originally had.

On the outside where the little pin hole is you can use washers (metal or plastic) to will up

the space.

Benifits of either:

Metal: Adds lower CG weight but needs to be a perfect fit otherwise slop my still occur or

binding may occur which is a real bad no-no.

Plastic: Not much weight addition, but more forgiving in terms of slop and binding due to it

bending and stretching.

This is all so far. Will update as i build more:

*Still on the table.

1. Mod Dogbone by splicing a tamiya mini dogbone and welding (bracing) it to a metal pipe for

correct length.

2. Mod damper mounting for better damper responce.

3. Make Tensioner

4. Fit RS4 Belt

MORE PICS WILL BE ADDED

[billg4 25]

don't do dogbones

traxxas stampede slidersv are much more efficient and will give you less problems

get axial's ax10 out drives from the diff and put it in your tamiya if you must keep the weak tamiya belt transmition

[blakeatron 16]

looks very capable, but somehow seems a bit 'spindly'

any flex pics?

[infernox 0]

1/10 scale body coming still. Deciding on which one. Bear with me

Update for today:

First off, I would like to remind you that this is a budget project so the tracer chassis kit (if i get it) will be last thing I import, except for the motor. Please keep in mind I got a limited budget and shipping is a nightmare (in money terms and our postal service stealing everything)

Secondly, tried to completely finish the 4links last night. Ran into some snags...

not enough threaded rod and no stock at LHS, will wait till the weekend.

one link the rod is not long enough, so need to recut rod longer. Will havta wait as per above.

Superglued the inserts into the arrows decently.

Checked on clearance for tensioner.

Trying to find the right washers, but so far no luck. So stock tlt wheel axles still installed.

Filled Front TLT tyres with bb's to see effect untill new rims and tyres (undecided which tyre) arrive.

Some pics of the progress:

So far so good.

Top: Stock Mini Wheel Axle

Middle: Stock TLT Wheel Axle

Bottom: Cut and beveled blackfoot axle 50808

Left: Stock Blackfoot Axle

Right: Beveled and shortened cup from the Blackfoot Axles 50808

Bluebird High Torque Servo

@RCurt: Looking at getting a tracer chassis from a guy in the USA. The sliders are to expensive at this moment. Will use the tracer kit's dogbone if I get it, otherwise for the time being Ill have to fabricate my own. Thanx for the compliement though.

@blakeatron: Strech pic above, please keep in mind i still want to "traingulate" (if thats right) the rear links. If you know how this is done please advise me.

@billg4: Please see my reply to rcurt's comment.

[infernox 0]

Anyone got an idea which tyres i should fit?

I ordered 2.2 beadlocks, but i need to decide on tyres.

[ryanbored 3]

I'm having that problem right now! Click on this thread and go to page 4!

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...60&start=60

[infernox 0]

I'm having that problem right now! Click on this thread and go to page 4!

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...60&start=60

Ryan im following your and dready's build hourly. Thing is I dont know if i should get a high (tall tyre) or what?

What would be best. Im looking at the following:

-Losi rock claws (no stock no where so im actually giving up)

-Imex Swamp Dawgs

-MOAB 2.2

I just dont know.....

And which dampers must i get, im looking for used, Emaxx or Tmaxx or Clod dampers, but I cant find any.

Keep in mind in on a budget. The body is going to cost me R365, then paint at 40-60 rand a can. Gawd!!

[dready 0]

Ryan im following your and dready's build hourly. Thing is I dont know if i should get a high (tall tyre) or what?

What would be best. Im looking at the following:

-Losi rock claws (no stock no where so im actually giving up)

-Imex Swamp Dawgs

-MOAB 2.2

I just dont know.....

And which dampers must i get, im looking for used, Emaxx or Tmaxx or Clod dampers, but I cant find any.

Keep in mind in on a budget. The body is going to cost me R365, then paint at 40-60 rand a can. Gawd!!

Well you don't need to follow it hourly for at least the next couple of days. I p**sed someone off last night so i got to be on my best behaviour and take her out tonight.

What shell are you going to be running? and how much is R365 cant we do better on TC someone must be able to help you out?

[infernox 0]

Well you don't need to follow it hourly for at least the next couple of days. I p**sed someone off last night so i got to be on my best behaviour and take her out tonight.

What shell are you going to be running? and how much is R365 cant we do better on TC someone must be able to help you out?

i want to use a HPI defender, in honour of the defender which engine i blew.

it roughly 25 pound, i know it doesnt sound like alot, but ive just moved house and the costs are through the roof, and i needed to buy rims etc. so my bank loves me right now.

[blakeatron 16]

i want to use a HPI defender, in honour of the defender which engine i blew.

it roughly 25 pound, i know it doesnt sound like alot, but ive just moved house and the costs are through the roof, and i needed to buy rims etc. so my bank loves me right now.

just put it on the plastic and worry about it next month.....

[ryanbored 3]

Don't go for the MOAB as they are HUGE!

[ryanbored 3]

Oh and I just ordered a load of bits from junfac for the tracer mod, minus the chassis plates as I'm on a budget too and dont think they are nessasary, especially as I dont plan to keep it. Will eventually get round to building my own chassis (minus dready!) so will post a build thread when the bits arrive.

[infernox 0]

well if the guys is going to return my PM then ill have a junfac conversion kit including the plates in my hands real soon aswell. if i run into problems im gonna contact you for help with the tracer!

dready: keep her happy, thats the smart thing to do. darn now im glad im not a taken man!

OK taken MOAB's off my list.

[infernox 0]

how will i doo this? because this looks so cool!!

[dready 0]

Oh and I just ordered a load of bits from junfac for the tracer mod, minus the chassis plates as I'm on a budget too and dont think they are nessasary, especially as I dont plan to keep it. Will eventually get round to building my own chassis (minus dready!) so will post a build thread when the bits arrive.

Don't plan to keep what? The Datsun?

[infernox 0]

Don't plan to keep what? The Datsun?

btw guys, what must i do with the diffs and the gearbox (ball diff?), lock, unlock? more taking apart

[dready 0]

how will i doo this? because this looks so cool!!

Cant see the pic at work any chance of posting a pic on the forum? (browse and upload)

Might be able to post a comment then.

[infernox 0]

i mean the cool looking links... (steering thingies)

how can i make mine look like that.

[infernox 0]

guys what can i do to make this a dual servo car... remember money constraints.

[infernox 0]

because from what I can see the steering is bad on the tlt without 4 wheel steering.

Anyone know of a tutorial on adding the other servo?

Update: Realized this weekend that the bottom links are too long so will have to shorten them tonight by 3-4mm.

Tried to make the dogbones this weekend, but didnt get it right.... and no its not the products (easyweld) fault, its me for not really being a good DIY guy. I will now give the task of the dogbones to a work collegue who can do it. I already designed some stuff for him, so he owes me

Will also have to rebuild the gearbox tonight, i realized that i forgot the thrustbearing.... its lying in my one little toolbox. (oopS :0)

pics of what ive done...

easyweld product:

safety first: (not alot of money spent)

halved dogbones cut with dremel:

[infernox 0]

anyone got any ideas on that four wheel steering? im getting stressed out!

[dready 0]

anyone got any ideas on that four wheel steering? im getting stressed out!

You could use the Hi-lift principal? nOne servo two steering axles?

Or if you wanted to be really flash run 2 servo's and have independent front and rear steering axle mounted like a tlt?

[infernox 0]

You could use the Hi-lift principal? nOne servo two steering axles?

Or if you wanted to be really flash run 2 servo's and have independent front and rear steering axle mounted like a tlt?

no i wanna run dual servo. but the servos wont be the same. do i need a 3ch radio? or can i not just add two servos to the same thing...

must i just turn the rear servo upside down or wrong side round?

[dready 0]

no i wanna run dual servo. but the servos wont be the same. do i need a 3ch radio? or can i not just add two servos to the same thing...

must i just turn the rear servo upside down or wrong side round?

If you want dual servo's you'll need a 3ch. Get a 4ch similar money and you'd have a spare (winch)

as for wiring two servos together dunno might work.

you wont need to mount the servo upside down just turn the servo horn over.

[infernox 0]

If you want dual servo's you'll need a 3ch. Get a 4ch similar money and you'd have a spare (winch)

as for wiring two servos together dunno might work.

you wont need to mount the servo upside down just turn the servo horn over.

is permanent 4 wheel steering a good idae?

what you mean turn servo horn over? please explain that, im trying to draw pics to make myself understand