Ta02 Nutter Thread

[redzone]

hi all.

so how many of u are a bit nostalgic and have hopped up TA02's? i recently got my taisan GT2 running again after 5 years of sitting in my cupboard. went looking for a FRP chassis set and ended up buying a nearly complete chassis from alex (incredible_serious) so now that chassis is going to receive some hop ups from the taisan and ebay...

basically what are your opinions on fitting a mamba max 6900kv brushless setup into one of these old jiggers? any probs i should be aware of? also looking at getting full set of alloy parts from asiatees.

i'm a bit sadistic, i wanna see how quick this old thing can go. not just in a straight line mind you......

[qatmix]

Its should be fine if the car is suitably hopped up Ensure you have a front one way and the torque spitter otherwise you will have trouble cornering on a tight circuit.

[omegabri]

God.....now I feel bad !!!! I very recently sold my Taisan Porsche GT2 on an old TA02SW chassis on Ebay...

Missing it now................

[Lemming]

hi all.

so how many of u are a bit nostalgic and have hopped up TA02's? i recently got my taisan GT2 running again after 5 years of sitting in my cupboard. went looking for a FRP chassis set and ended up buying a nearly complete chassis from alex (incredible_serious) so now that chassis is going to receive some hop ups from the taisan and ebay...

basically what are your opinions on fitting a mamba max 6900kv brushless setup into one of these old jiggers? any probs i should be aware of? also looking at getting full set of alloy parts from asiatees.

i'm a bit sadistic, i wanna see how quick this old thing can go. not just in a straight line mind you......

I've gone a bit milder in my Top Force (still TA02 though so a good basis) and have found the only real weakness to be the rear gearbox. Watch using reverse basically.

I've fitted the 2nd alloy gear in mine which stops a lot of issues (so far) but in reverse the top cover (over the idler gear) tries to lift. This causes the gears to lose mesh and can obviously damage them. I know Evoman solved this with a bar across the top edge of the gearbox to apply pressure across the whole side rather than just where the screw fits...

Other than that it has stood up to the abuse well (in fact 2 of them have). There's a video in my showroom for an idea of the sort of abuse I put it through, and after some 30+ runs it is now starting to sound really unhealthy in the rear gearbox.

Have a search through the video's for another user (can't remember who) that fitted the Mamba Max set-up to his TA02 buggy for an idea of the difference in speed compared with my Novak setup. It's absolutely manic!

Steve

p.s. I would also seriously recommend the alloy motor mount if you haven't already done it. That was the only real required hop-up I found, the others just make small improvements.

[redzone]

yes i have the alloy motor mount, ball races, hardened prop shaft, pretty much every spur gear, pinion etc possible, alloy idler, front one way, hardened dog bones, cups, rear super slicks and front hpi slicks all from the taisan. all of which i bought when i was an apprentice in 1996/7.. eek.

the FRP chassis has ball races, hardened prop, bearings in the steering, taisan gear cases, frp shock towers, turnbuckle tie rods, rear sway bar, and i have turnbuckle upper arms coming from ebay so i can dial in decent camber. does anyone know if the GPM alloy rear uprights have less toe in than stock? it always looked a bit excessive to me. so what other tamiya chassis universal shafts fit these things? anyone else compared other chassis to see what will interchange?? and is the carbon chassis set worth getting? and what transmitter should i be looking at these days to control this beast?

cheers for your help!

dave.

ps anyone know where i could get a new battery holder for my old futaba FP-T2PBK transmitter??

[madaz75]

God.....now I feel bad !!!! I very recently sold my Taisan Porsche GT2 on an old TA02SW chassis on Ebay...

Missing it now................

Gee..

I think some one said that you'd miss it if you sold it.

kinda glad I have resisted the urge to sell my Schnizer BMW TA-02.

Instead I bought hop-ups

[qatmix]

Sounds like a Show us your hopped up Ta02 chassis thread in the making I will get some pics of mine tonight

Also the carbon replacement for the frp doesnt really make that much of a difference.

Cheers

C

[redzone]

nice! thats what i was hoping for

i'm probably gonna go for the 7700kv "big block" mamba as i've found a cheaper one hehe.

will post pics soon of what i'm starting with..

and omegabri, i was actually thinking about buying your one too

[djmcnz]

My experience suggests you should dump the aluminium idler gear for the plastic one... you'll find less pieces in your gearbox after hard running...

Other than securing the rear gearbox cover and the other things you've done, I'd also consider reinforcing the rear suspension tower mounts, another weak part.

[redzone]

righteo. yes was a bit unsure about the alloy/plastic combination's longevity.

got the frp shock towers so they're not a problem..

[Incredible_Serious]

righteo. yes was a bit unsure about the alloy/plastic combination's longevity.

got the frp shock towers so they're not a problem..

Gee redzone matey, your FRP TA02 chassis sounds killer! lol.......

Great to see an enthusiast going the right way with it and using it.... look forward to pics and video!

Alex

[Bluefoot]

ps anyone know where i could get a new battery holder for my old futaba FP-T2PBK transmitter??

Just ordered a couple of these, and the battery covers from Tower. You can find them here:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...B&search=Go

I have been compiling a list of comparisons between the TA01 and TA02, and also adding notes on parts that are interchangable with other chassis as I find out about them. You can see that here:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...983&id=2193

You can also see my all-metal TA02 here:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...18&sid=2193

[Backlash]

so what other tamiya chassis universal shafts fit these things? anyone else compared other chassis to see what will interchange??

ps anyone know where i could get a new battery holder for my old futaba FP-T2PBK transmitter??

Im quite sure that the uni drives from the TL01, will fit in the rear of the TA02, and also in the front if using the TA02W front hubs (red hubs off the Hotshot). If your using the blue hubs on the front, then maybe the uni's from a TA03 may fit.. If you have a mid 90's Tamiya RC guide book, go to the back pages and it will tell you what parts are interchangeable.

That Futaba controller your talking about, is it that the one with the weird shaped battery holder that goes up inside the handle?? If so, you should still be able to order these through your LHS. I bought a couple for myself about 6 months ago.

Goodluck

[redzone]

sweet yes mine has the angled battery holder, i tried on and off for 3 years to get my hobby shop to find one, but they're pretty useless up here. ended up getting a universal one and wiring her up, zip tied it to the front bar of the trans. looks very "bush week" but does the job for now. will definitely jump on a couple of those holders!

alex i'm glad ur not mad at me for wanting to use it!

cheers for the other comments guys. might show some pics tonight...

[djmcnz]

got the frp shock towers so they're not a problem..

The FRP ones are the bigger problem, right where the rear one mounts to the rear gearbox can weaken. Use 12mm tapered, tapping screws with wing washers instead of the 10mm screws.

[redzone]

ok time for an update, as a few things have arrived..

here's a few things i started off with:

my taisan GT2, built in about 1997... not box art obviously, have a new shell on its way (paid too much for it)

here's the taisan chassis with some yeah racing 50mm shocks fitted. brings the ride height down to about 5mm, camber will be corrected with adjustable upper arms. this suspension combo will be transferred to the frp chassis.....

here is the frp chassis, with the mamba

which will run this evo6 shell:

getting a spektrum 2 channel to run the frp/mamba/evo6..

[mb_c11]

I've fitted the 2nd alloy gear in mine which stops a lot of issues (so far) but in reverse the top cover (over the idler gear) tries to lift. This causes the gears to lose mesh and can obviously damage them. I know Evoman solved this with a bar across the top edge of the gearbox to apply pressure across the whole side rather than just where the screw fits...

A possible cause for this is screwing in the screws too deep. This will cause the screw holes on both the cover and gear box to crack, or strip out the holes in the gearbox (this is not always visible), after which you can pull off the cover without removing the screws.

[Lemming]

A possible cause for this is screwing in the screws too deep. This will cause the screw holes on both the cover and gear box to crack, or strip out the holes in the gearbox (this is not always visible), after which you can pull off the cover without removing the screws.

Whilst it's true that that will cause the problem, a seriously powerful motor in reverse will actually cause the problem. It's a design issue really as there is only a single screw on the one side and it doesn't hold the back edge down firmly enough for a lot of power in reverse. Not such an issue in forwards.

I've encountered it with 3 cars now, including a new build with screws which are fitted perfectly and not threaded. As mentioned, Evoman (who races these) also said it was a normal issue with the design and hence had plates custom made to stop the problem.

[B.M.T.]

Have you chaps spied one of these, before?.

HPI chassis for '02/FF.

[pUs]

Whilst it's true that that will cause the problem, a seriously powerful motor in reverse will actually cause the problem. It's a design issue really as there is only a single screw on the one side and it doesn't hold the back edge down firmly enough for a lot of power in reverse. Not such an issue in forwards.

I've encountered it with 3 cars now, including a new build with screws which are fitted perfectly and not threaded. As mentioned, Evoman (who races these) also said it was a normal issue with the design and hence had plates custom made to stop the problem.

The easiest solution is to drill a new screw hole on the left hand side, in the corner which is unsupported. If you do this when all parts are new and attach the cover with this fourth screw, the problem is pretty much solved. I used to do this when I raced the Top Force back in the early nineties, already at that time a powerful motor like a 11x2 caused the gearbox cover to bend and ruining the idler gear in the process. This small mod fixed it though.

Also, don't use the alu gears at all in the rear gearbox. Neither the idler gear or the drive gear. Use the one-piece spur gear with integrated drive gear, along with a top force idler gear (or RW racing ones). Dunno if this isn't standard in the Ta02 though, perhaps it is. This combo last the longest though.

[TA-Mark]

I made an alloy block to go under that screw that puts pressure down over both shafts and have not had another gearbox cover split.

7700Kv in a TA02 is crazy... on 7.2v that is 55,000rpm approx and more as voltage increases. Honestly use a low Kv in a Tamiya TA-** chassis (3600Kv-4600Kv).

Alloy motor mount was covered by others, the plastic ones shear off at the first application of the Mamba's power.

The Tamiya alloy pinions make good ornaments when you fit brushless. You will have bundles of chewed out spurs and alloy pinions within a battery run and only using forward. You MUST use a steel or titanium pinion. The alloy idler gear and the alloy gear that fits in the back of the spur gear wear very fast with alot of load, the delrin gears are a must here too, they won't wear nowhere near as fast. To get the spur all delrin/plastic is the skyline speed tuned gear set. I use the 74T skyline spur and 17T,18T,19T steel pinions with buggy size wheels, and 74T spur and 19T,20T21T with onroad wheels. If the motor is too hot to hold your finger on for 2sec the pinion is too big and it's loaded the motor too much. If the battery is the only thing getting hot the pinion is too small. Trial and error in pinion size to get the balance of temp between esc/battery/motor to get the system sweet.

The next weak point is the outdrive splines in the diffs, these will eventually shear out. Loctite in while new makes them last longer, but you will still be buying replacement diffs often.

Alloy drive hexes are a must too. The plastic ones melt.

In a TA-** chassis you need to tune the MambaMax esc to minimum punch and no advance. The instant power is still too much for the chassis when set everything on minimum. Lack of ability to fit a slipper clutch has the driveline taking the full force of the Mamba.

Expect the car to wear out at about 4 times the rate of using a hot brushed as it's pushing 4 times the power through it with a Mamba.

Just a few things I've discovered running my MambaMax 5700Kv in TA01, TA02, TA03 and DF01, and in my many discusions with the guys at castle.

ATM all my cars are broken... TY MambaMax! It eventually cracked the rear diff housing in 2. Far too much for TA-** IMO. Mamba makes the other brushless systems look slow.

[pUs]

Yeah, forgot about the pinions. The tamiya ones are junk, to be honest. The tamiya HP steel pinions for the egress/avante were great though, but they were only available up to 15 tooth. I often used these together with an adjustable MMS motor mount, but for bigger pinions than that I used RW Racing 0.6 or Kyosho 0.6 module pinions (the ones that were on the Optima MID and the first Lazer ZX). The kyosho ones were very smooth and quite durable even though they were made out of aluminium. They had a good coating on them that made them last, I used the same pinions for a couple of seasons.

RW pinions are still available for the TA02/TA01 range of cars.

[TA-Mark]

DF02 has a 19T steel pinion. Carson make the rest.

[yamita]

Ive been sleeping on the 02 series for a while. I finally broke down and built my NIB promakt zakspeed dtm c class. I was pleasantly surprised that the kit was a blast to build. Ive been caught into the bling bling hype of carbon chassis, but I never got bored during the build process. It's a shame that plastic kits nowadays dont have the charms of these semi vintage kits. From tt01's to ta05's, they all lack character of tamiyas of yesteryear. Tamiya seems to have gone the way of other manufacturers and make cookie cutter chassis. Right after I finished the build, I proceeded to build a NIB tb01 german rally and ta03rs gt3 porsche. They were all very pleasing to build and still held their own without any expensive hopups. Modern 'base' kits are very boring without putting some money into them and in the end, you couldve bought a new car. Well, now I depleted all my reserve kits and I must buy some more... ugh.. tracking down a ta01 or FF01 to finish my touring car collection. Finish? yea right...

[redzone]

I made an alloy block to go under that screw that puts pressure down over both shafts and have not had another gearbox cover split.

7700Kv in a TA02 is crazy... on 7.2v that is 55,000rpm approx and more as voltage increases. Honestly use a low Kv in a Tamiya TA-** chassis (3600Kv-4600Kv).

Alloy motor mount was covered by others, the plastic ones shear off at the first application of the Mamba's power.

The Tamiya alloy pinions make good ornaments when you fit brushless. You will have bundles of chewed out spurs and alloy pinions within a battery run and only using forward. You MUST use a steel or titanium pinion. The alloy idler gear and the alloy gear that fits in the back of the spur gear wear very fast with alot of load, the delrin gears are a must here too, they won't wear nowhere near as fast. To get the spur all delrin/plastic is the skyline speed tuned gear set. I use the 74T skyline spur and 17T,18T,19T steel pinions with buggy size wheels, and 74T spur and 19T,20T21T with onroad wheels. If the motor is too hot to hold your finger on for 2sec the pinion is too big and it's loaded the motor too much. If the battery is the only thing getting hot the pinion is too small. Trial and error in pinion size to get the balance of temp between esc/battery/motor to get the system sweet.

The next weak point is the outdrive splines in the diffs, these will eventually shear out. Loctite in while new makes them last longer, but you will still be buying replacement diffs often.

Alloy drive hexes are a must too. The plastic ones melt.

In a TA-** chassis you need to tune the MambaMax esc to minimum punch and no advance. The instant power is still too much for the chassis when set everything on minimum. Lack of ability to fit a slipper clutch has the driveline taking the full force of the Mamba.

Expect the car to wear out at about 4 times the rate of using a hot brushed as it's pushing 4 times the power through it with a Mamba.

Just a few things I've discovered running my MambaMax 5700Kv in TA01, TA02, TA03 and DF01, and in my many discusions with the guys at castle.

ATM all my cars are broken... TY MambaMax! It eventually cracked the rear diff housing in 2. Far too much for TA-** IMO. Mamba makes the other brushless systems look slow.

any chance of a picture of the alloy block?? cheers for the advice, exactly what i need. have already worked out i am going to use the kit stock 74T spur and a 19T pinion, gotta get myself a steel one as u mentioned. have got steel ozcharge ones but they're all high tooth count. thinking of buying a lower spec motor to experiment with as i've seen them advertised too. have a few spare ball diffs and pressure plates hanging around as i've already struck worn splines. loctite is a very good idea. alloy hexes i have already got also.

FYI the GPM alloy rear uprights give zero toe in aswell. and u need to run the GPM kingpins to suit the GPM steering setup or it gets vertical slop...