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Has anybody used anything other than the stock pinions (15T) in the TXT-1. I have just mounted some HPI 550's up and will run at 14.4V, given they are higher torque I thought about using an 18T one from the Wild Dagger. Are they the same pitch and does anybody think they will work?

Also planning to convert to 4WS and I have all the parts bar the 3 x 74mm rod. I have 3 Channel radio gear so will set up similar to the front one and just flip the transmitter switch rather than have to reverse servo setup. Does anybody know if I could use a shorter rod instead and if so what length and where I could acquire one from. Guess I could always buy threaded shaft from a supplier and cut length.

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I've got HPI 550 motors in my txt-1, with a 14.4 volt esc and 2 3700 nimh packs.

I've kept the stock pinions, which gives the truck heaps of torque - more than any other RC truck I've driven!

Acceleration is almost instant. Near full throttle pulling away results in huge wheelies and top speed is fine for the size of truck it is.

I'm tempted to try larger pinions just to see if the torque is still good. Higher top speed is tempting as the truck could certainly go faster. :lol:

Don't forget you'll probably need to upgrade the universal shafts. After 2 runs with 14.4 volt power, my trucks stock shafts were showing signs of wear. I've got Tamiya TNX shafts on mine now, which are almost a direct swap. :lol:

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I've got HPI 550 motors in my txt-1, with a 14.4 volt esc and 2 3700 nimh packs.

I've kept the stock pinions, which gives the truck heaps of torque - more than any other RC truck I've driven!

Acceleration is almost instant. Near full throttle pulling away results in huge wheelies and top speed is fine for the size of truck it is.

I'm tempted to try larger pinions just to see if the torque is still good. Higher top speed is tempting as the truck could certainly go faster. :D

Don't forget you'll probably need to upgrade the universal shafts. After 2 runs with 14.4 volt power, my trucks stock shafts were showing signs of wear. I've got Tamiya TNX shafts on mine now, which are almost a direct swap. :lol:

Good stuff. I reassembled it with the stock pinions as I chickened out. It was running at 14.4V but only with BZ motors so no idea what they were spinning at or whether they were being damaged, hopefully not but who knows.

What signs of wear were the shafts showing as I want to check mine, they seem ok at the moment though. Need to find a rod from somewhere for 4WS. Do you have 4WS?

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Cool :lol:

I think you'd have killed those BZ's eventually, but the 550's will last forever :D

The shafts had a fair amount of use with a pair of 21 turn motors @ 7.2 volts, so had a little bit of play in them. But after running with 550's at double the voltage the torque began to wear them badly:

2008_0105tc_pics_10002-1.jpg

You can see how the pin has worn either side, and the holes in the universal joint have opened up wider. The pin would have eventually snapped, as its worn down to half its original thickness.

Here's the TNX drive shafts i'm now using, compared to a stock txt-1 shaft:

2008_0118emplayin0006.jpg

Fitting requires cutting down the aluminum slider to shorten it, and lightly filing away a small part of the central gearbox case, to clear the larger yokes.

The trucks had about 10 runs on these now, with no issues to far :D

2008_0118emplayin0015.jpg

I've got permanent 4 wheel steering on my truck, using a Y lead. You've got to be careful when steering at speed, as the turning circle is much tighter. But it's a lot more fun with the rear steering - the trucks just too predictable with 2 wheel steering :P

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A friend of mine has the same question about gearing up the TXT-1. He had a few concerns so I figured I'd ask for him in this thread. Will 17T pinions fit in the gearbox (is there enough clearance in there?)? He also wondered if the TXT-1 is straight up normal 32 pitch or if its some kind of "metric" pitch found in Tamiya cars with 48 pitch gears? Thanks.

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Here's the TNX drive shafts i'm now using, compared to a stock txt-1 shaft:

Do you know if the Traxxas Revo 3.3 Drive shafts will fit as I can obtain those fairly cheapily.

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Do you know if the Traxxas Revo 3.3 Drive shafts will fit as I can obtain those fairly cheapily.

I believe so, but you need to do similar mods to the ones needed to fit the tnx ones.

Nothing is a direct swap apart from RC4WD punisher II's.

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Do you know if the Traxxas Revo 3.3 Drive shafts will fit as I can obtain those fairly cheapily.

The boys on rccrawler.com seem to swear by them, but I'm not sure if they're referring to the (very) short center driveshafts that connect the transmission to the front and rear gearboxes or the axles that run from the gearboxes to the hub carriers. I got a pair for my Juggernaut crawler to replace the finnicky punisher shaft I use now but since I'm also sporting BTA steering I encountered clearance issues with the servo.

Regarless, you will the following:

Shaft assemblies: no yokes, if you buy the assembled set, one end has the half-shaft assembly and the yoke is a nightmare to remove since they use c-clips and not e-clips.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXHFY1&P=Z

U-joints and yokes to go with the assemblies:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXHFY4&P=Z

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXMJG9&P=Z

three things:

1 - They're a tad long for the stock txt. remove the blue rubber dust boot, slide them apart and cut one inch from The larger, outer sleeve and the shaft will be able to clear the distance between the transmission and gearcase.

2 - You'll probably have to grind the transmission yokkes clear the case.

3 - The set screw goes clear through the yoke to the other side and the 6mm txt output shafts are drilled through bevel to bevel, You'll probably never worry about a loose or lost shaft ever again.

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Also planning to convert to 4WS and I have all the parts bar the 3 x 74mm rod. I have 3 Channel radio gear so will set up similar to the front one and just flip the transmitter switch rather than have to reverse servo setup. Does anybody know if I could use a shorter rod instead and if so what length and where I could acquire one from. Guess I could always buy threaded shaft from a supplier and cut length.

That's basically what I did with mine, the stock rod was abit to soft so I got some 3mm threaded rod and some brass tubing (5mm outer, 3mm inner) to cover the threaded rod, just cut the rod to length, cut the brass tube about 15mm shorter and slide the tubing over the rod...

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