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Mini Cooper (the Real One...) Rear Light Decals

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Hi guys

as I'm getting older, I'm also getting more finicky (anyone said "anal"?). And one thing is puzzling me here... I recently built an 58211 kit, whose paint I messed up (that's another story), but I still put the stickies on. And there's no way in badword I can keep the rear light stickers on the lexan's light molding! What the heck did I do wrong, these things keep peeling away... I have a new body set coming at me for a new (and successful this time) paint job, I'd like to get the stickies done properly this time, how did you guys do it and how do you keep them on?

Thanks!

Paul

< feeling a bit stoopid not being able to make decals stick after 20+ years of bulding/painting RC cars...>

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I had the same problem - rear light decals curling up and off. I tried a non-toxic glue stick [ the ones you use for your children's schooling work - paper, etc.]. I applied the glue to the stick surface and then very carefully used my heat gun and applied some heat to the decal and then applied pressure with my finger and gently rubbed the peeled portion back onto the surface.

I've done this on a few of my shells and it holds and stays in place.

Do this carefully as you dont want to overheat/melt away the decal.

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i used a tiny dab of superglue and held it down with a craft knife blade untill it set.

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Hi, i get the same problem with edges of decals, i also use superglue, they never lift after that....but with CA you gotta get it right the first time, no second chance.....

I tend to find this problem on "vintage decals" more than new ones, i guess after 20+ years the glue degrades alittle, best of luck!

Mike30.

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Thanks all - I tried CA before but it didn't stick... Go figure. Will try the normal glue trick + hairdryer (no heatgun here). Thanks for the advice!

Paul

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Thanks all - I tried CA before but it didn't stick... Go figure. Will try the normal glue trick + hairdryer (no heatgun here). Thanks for the advice!

Paul

Use the wife's hair dryer... on the hot setting. :D

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Yeah, the back light stickers are hopeless! :D

It helps if you put plenty of tiny cuts, following the mould edges, and horizontally between the orange, red and white. They fit the body shape a bit better then, and you may not need to glue.

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i did a few of mini bodies years ago, i hope i can explain what i did... i used to cut pieces of the clear edges of the decal sheet, and use the clear pieces to tack the two decals together, worked okay and cleaner than glue. hard to explain, but worth a try.

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This is a problem that always existed with decal and not much talked about. Maybe is not just with Tamiya, but we all think Tamiya is perfect compare to other mfg. I think with the computer technology the decals can be designed to fit circles or curves or even provide suggestion how to better apply decal like using soap solution plus heat etc... Tamiya just don't tell us other than by saying peel of the backing a bit at a time. Tamiya does great box art, parts are nicely package, price reasonablely, and instructions are clear. Now if only Tamiya can just improve on the fitting design of curves for decals and other more advance technique in applying decals would earn the kit an A+. Is just going that little additional step would make a hugh difference.

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i did a few of mini bodies years ago, i hope i can explain what i did... i used to cut pieces of the clear edges of the decal sheet, and use the clear pieces to tack the two decals together, worked okay and cleaner than glue. hard to explain, but worth a try.

I have used this method also(Tiger stripe Escort,TA01),but not on Mini rear light stickers.

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One thing you could try? Through radical, is to remove body colour from the tail light area, and actually paint the tail light from the inside, that way no decal problems, scratches etc, is what i used to do with the rally cosworth car bodys, and when painted from the inside and they look realistic, just another idea...

Mike30.

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I had a Mini and found the light decals to be a real PITA

So I painted them, I used Tamiya paint and painted the indicator and red part silver then used clear red and clear orange over that

the reverse lights I just painted white

post-2998-1205014376.jpg

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I love Tamiya decals, they are uncut and very thin, unlike HPI's - yuck.

I've had the same issue on my Mini bodies. I'd place the decal and work the edges down. 10 minutes later they'd spring up.

Anyway, I always use a hair dryer (on hottest setting) for getting the edges of the decal down to conform and 'stick' to the lexan. This method works everytime without fail and the decals stick permanently. When the decal is heated, it probably looses it elasticity and become plastically (permanently) shaped. This probably helps as the decal won't be fighting against it's own adhesive trying to lift itself from the body. :P

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I love Tamiya decals, they are uncut and very thin, unlike HPI's - yuck.

I've had the same issue on my Mini bodies. I'd place the decal and work the edges down. 10 minutes later they'd spring up.

Anyway, I always use a hair dryer (on hottest setting) for getting the edges of the decal down to conform and 'stick' to the lexan. This method works everytime without fail and the decals stick permanently. When the decal is heated, it probably looses it elasticity and become plastically (permanently) shaped. This probably helps as the decal won't be fighting against it's own adhesive trying to lift itself from the body. :P

Yes but HPI decals take the shape of the body. Tamiya's don't.

Max

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I have success with the hair dryer method too. I also submerge the decals with soapy water first.

Same with the front head lamps. It was actually easier than I thought.

post-22560-1205215620.jpg

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I have success with the hair dryer method too. I also submerge the decals with soapy water first.

Same with the front head lamps. It was actually easier than I thought.

Nice job on your Mini. I really like these in red :)

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