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nazcom_101

Tamiya Prerunner

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Hi I am new to the world of tamiya's but I have been around the world of RC'ing for a few years... I started off 1/10 drifting and then moved on to custom xmods and mini-t / micro-t (dt)...

but after finding a Tamiya Prerunner up for grabs on ebay afew days ago I though it would make a great project to work on, as well as run...

the below photos are of the Prerunner from the ebay listing I though I would just post these up for now... saves me taking new photos myself when they will just be the same, untill I start working on it...

I got the truck without any esc, motor, tx, etc... I only got the servo, this was so I could get the truck for way less then he wanted for it...

I have spare transmitter & receiver unit myself so I just need to get a new motor and esc + battery pack and chager...

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I know they is a link to a online manual via the club website for this truck but the page links are not for this truck... lol... so if anyone knows where I can get hold of a manual for this truck online... i.e. for free I would be very grateful...

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I saw that truck when it was on ebay; I almost bought it :P! Good luck with finding the manual, I wish I could help you with that.

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Heres a picture of my 1st and 2nd F-150 the day I built it. I am about to install my brushless motor with an 11.1 lipo setup and have full ball bearings. I am shooting for 55mph, being limited only by the gear ratio.

P1010080.jpg

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Thanks, I only really need it to know how to mount the motor once I get it... so those that have a F150 posted above could you tell me that or take some photos of how the motor is mounted into the rear gears....

EDIT:

I had a look at where the motor gets mounted and have found out how its done... theys to screws on the over side of the gear box that hold the motor mounting plate in place so I removed them and I see how the motor will mount to that plate...

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Heres a picture of my 1st and 2nd F-150 the day I built it. I am about to install my brushless motor with an 11.1 lipo setup and have full ball bearings. I am shooting for 55mph, being limited only by the gear ratio.

Can the gearing/ chassis take that sort of thing, or will it go like the clappers for 10 minutes then die?!

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The manual for the prerunner isn't on the site, but the manual for the identical Chevy S-10 is

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/manual.asp?id=152

The only difference is the body.

200mph Corvette, using a hot motor you need to upgrade the motor mount to an alloy one to stop it melting. It's been a long time since Tamiya made them, and they usually sell on ebay for 40 each. GPM makes one for a fraction of the price http://www.asiatees.com/display.php?id=123...A02&pid=958

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Terry.sc I thought the same thing at first and with a brushed motor it would probably melt but having a brushed motor there is no temp problem. After a full run you can hold you fingers on the motor as long as you want without getting too hot. I would really like to get the aluminum motor mount though for precision and strength cause im gonna need all of it that I can get.

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Ryanbored, yes the gearing can take the power as long as you dont stomp it consistanly from a dead stop and hold the throttle over a jump. one thing that causes the gears in these to go out is the bushings that people leave in and cause the gears to wobble, wear down, get weak, then strip out. I have a full set of abec 5 ball bearings which help tremendously and will use the biggest pinion a 21t to lessen the likely hood of striping gears. The way ill be driving it I will be highspeed flat dirt runs and street runs for radar purposes.

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Here's mine. It's a fun truck. I'd like to add some aluminum shocks eventually. It's got full bearings, turnbuckles, front one-way, rear swaybar, alloy motor mount and the hardened prop shaft.

img18_01052002232759_1.jpg

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Here's mine. It's a fun truck. I'd like to add some aluminum shocks eventually. It's got full bearings, turnbuckles, front one-way, rear swaybar and the hardened prop shaft.

Great now RichieRich has me wanting a prerunner :huh: Nice looking truck

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Backa, RR has YOU wanting one, I have always thought they were the best looker of the 3 stadium TA02 chassis and yet Tamiya has only left us with the Ford. :huh: IF we could all have gone back and bought a couple when they were on the shelf about 15 yrs ago, we could all be happy and maybe Tamiya would be still making them. I guess there is always the wishing of a RE RE version. I mean, come on Tamiya is in Japan, Toyota is in Japan....too logical.

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Backa, RR has YOU wanting one, I have always thought they were the best looker of the 3 stadium TA02 chassis and yet Tamiya has only left us with the Ford. :rolleyes: IF we could all have gone back and bought a couple when they were on the shelf about 15 yrs ago, we could all be happy and maybe Tamiya would be still making them. I guess there is always the wishing of a RE RE version. I mean, come on Tamiya is in Japan, Toyota is in Japan....too logical.

You might want to pick up the Ford as here in Japan Tamiya doesnt have any. I tried all my wholesalers and nobody has a Ford,or any of these trucks.

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Terry.sc I thought the same thing at first and with a brushed motor it would probably melt but having a brushed motor there is no temp problem.

There's a bigger reason for an alloy motor mount than just heat. The standard mount can crack after a jump, can be more of a problem with the extra weight of a brushless motor hanging off the mount.

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Oh yeah, I have that too. The alloy motor mount is a must. Even with a standard brushed motor, the heat can warp the plastic.

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I will need to find the alloy motor mount then, anyone know the model no. for one ?

also heres a update on my truck...

while on ebay again... lol... fav. past time... I came across a Bowler Wildcat ABS body and I just had to get it...

It came 2days ago and since then I have kut out the windows, will be making side split windows and adding clear front window... drilled out the hole in the front and rear bumpers and also mounted it to the chassis...

I also changed out the rims to some spare HPI 6 Spoke Chromes which I think stand out more and suit the body more...

BWFront01.jpg

BWFS01.jpg

BWSV01.jpg

BWRS01.jpg

BWFS02.jpg

I am going to paint the body red with the "Ascents" if thats the right word... in black i.e. rear wing, window lines, grill, wheel arches etc...

Last night I got the front headlights cut out as I am going to make working headlights for it, also got the front hood and side body vents cut out also...

I also did some BOWLER logo designs in flash like the ones seen on the real truck, image below...

Bowler_Decals.jpg

Chassis set up atm..

Saturn 20T Motor (540 Type)

Mtroniks Viper ECO 20 ESC

4x AAA 800mAh RX Cell Pack

7.2v 3300mAh Rack Pack

Acoms Techniplus TX and RX

More Coming Soon...

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thanks hrddrvr it must just be the angle of the photos or somethink because the front and rear wheels are about the same, not much I can do about it...

ok so I was talking to my parents about making some light buckets for the truck, and yesterday while they where out shopping they got a set of 4 Plastic Champagne glasses with detachable stands for like 1 / $1.99 as my mam though they would make some light buckets kut up right... so I would like to thank her for getting me these...

BLight01.jpg

Removed the detachable stand

BLight02.jpg

Then I kut of the bottom part of the plastic glass

BLight03.jpg

BLight04.jpg

Blue Tack'ed in place for photos e.g.

BLight05.jpg

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View from inside

BLight07.jpg

I will add a bit of clear plastic from the inside to make the front of the headlight lens, I also need to get some LEDs then I can drill a hole in the end part of the light bucket to allow the wires of the LED out...

I will paint the inside of the light bucket with some chrome paint and the outer side with some black paint...

I have afew vents to finish kutting out and then I can give the body a coat of primer as I got a new can of it the other day...

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Nice trick. I have used some true aluminum tape for some realistic headlight buckets on my cousins Midnight Pumpkin. It is very mold able and could be less messy versus the paint.

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Lookin very good and nice to see another dakar Machine being made.

I like your light bucket trick and might need to add that to my bowler shell that is a slow on going project. I would just look at widening the chassis a little with some larger offset wheels or wide axles. To improve both the look and performance.

regards

Ryck

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Looking great!

I have a ta01 chassis here that I'm interested in modding.. where did you get the shell?

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excellent light bucket trick! I suggest you post it in the tutorial section!

Thanks for sharing,

Paul

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