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Posted

The Junfac must be one of the easier beadlocks to narrow; Apart from the two locking rings, the wheel is a simple 2 piece design, consisting of the centre plug which also has the hex moulded into it, and the outer tube/barrel.

To narrow them, you need only cut the barrel.

Heres the two main pieces left is the plug, right is the barrel

img169_10032008171732_1.jpg

First off, I drill a couple of air holes in the barrel.

This will be the innermost face of the wheel once assembled as, if the hole were towards the outer edge, the plug would cover the hole.

I drill two 5mm holes, diametrically opposite.

img169_10032008171732_3.jpg

Next, the cuts.

I cut against the screw hole mouldings, simply because theyre easy to work against with a saw

img169_10032008171732_4.jpg

Placing the blade against two lugs, I make a light scoring cut, so Ill make 8 of these around the wheel Lug 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 and so on.

img169_10032008171732_5.jpg

Once the barrel is ringed with a shallow cut, I then cut around it again until the blade breaks through.

I found this more accurate/neater than trying to cut all the way down from top to bottom, like sawing a log.

img169_10032008171732_6.jpg

The first half of the rim.

img169_10032008171757_1.jpg

De-Burr the rim using a sharp blade or sandpaper

img169_10032008171757_2.jpg

For smoothing the rings face down, I use a sanding sponge and just rub the ring over it until smooth.

Any high spots get shaved down with a Stanley knife

img169_10032008171757_3.jpg

The smoothed face

img169_10032008171757_4.jpg

Before gluing, note that the screw lugs/mouldings are mirrored as opposed to all the same

Lining these up correctly will ensure youre gluing the largest possible surface area

img169_10032008171757_5.jpg

Liberal apply superglue slower drying is more beneficial here.

img169_10032008171757_6.jpg

Once glued and aligned, clamp the ring until the glues dry.

You dont need a vice or heavy equipment, if you dont have a spring clamp, try a few books. Its only to hold it all in place whilst the glue dries

img169_10032008171829_1.jpg

Once the superglues dry, I then apply a coating of hot glue, just to make sure.

Make sure the superglues hard before though, as the two glues mixed give off some fairly unpleasant fumes

img169_10032008171829_2.jpg

As soon as everythings set, clean up the bore of the barrel The plug is a good snug fit so any beads of glue will make assembly a pain.

img169_10032008171829_3.jpg

A narrowed rim, alongside an untouched one

The surgery removes approximately 14mm

img169_10032008171829_4.jpg

Quick shot of the breather hole (10 oclock)

img169_10032008171829_5.jpg

And the obligatory blood shot (dramatic reenacment)

img169_10032008171829_6.jpg

img169_10032008171843_1.jpg

Posted

So twinset when are you going to show us the other piece?

To Adjust the Offset?

Eh ryan wanna buy your beadlocks back?

Bet you'd wished you kept them now.

Posted
So twinset when are you going to show us the other piece?

To Adjust the Offset?

Eh ryan wanna buy your beadlocks back?

Bet you'd wished you kept them now.

Give ya 5.

Ohh get me, I sound just like you when It comes to money! :P

Posted
So twinset when are you going to show us the other piece?

To Adjust the Offset?

Narrowing the barrels increases the offset (or at least moves the centreline of the tyre outward), as the centre plug is not modified and the barrel screws to the plug

levelij8.jpg

Posted
Can I ask what the main benefit of narrowing wheels? It it mainly for crawling?

One of the main reasons is to get a little more tread around the edge of the tyre, handy for using the sidewalls to climb.

By narrowing the centre width, you wrap some of the tread over, onto the sidewall.

A lot of tyre manufacturers now add more lugs on the sidewall, but with most of these tyres still being for the wider market (not crawler specific) a bit of modding usually improves what's already there.

Also, on these Junfac rims, narrowing them moves the tyre over, away from the links, shocks etc, so I don't need to use wheel wideners.

Posted

I found those wheels such a mare- After 2 evenings sat on the sofa with a allen key and a beer I just couldn't get the bead of my MOABs accurately secured. Alot of swearing and digging about the sofa for the allen bolts and I gave up. I just don't have that sort of patience

Posted
I found those wheels such a mare- After 2 evenings sat on the sofa with a allen key and a beer I just couldn't get the bead of my MOABs accurately secured. Alot of swearing and digging about the sofa for the allen bolts and I gave up. I just don't have that sort of patience

Different manufacturers use different bead sizes - I was fitting Proline Badlands 2.2s to these, and ended up with 4 dots of glue on each rim to hold the tyre in place whilst I did the screws up, whereas with the Losi tyres, the beads were big and sticky enough to hold themselves in place.

Even on bigger tyres this is an issue, I have some Maxx size beadlocks, and they include shims for different brands of tyres.

24057494wc7.jpg

Posted

I found that the moab didn't have a very accurate bead, and seemed to be a little 'baggy', so when tighteneing up the locking ring the bead popped out. Repeatedly. Infuriating!

Maybe it was the accuracy of the Cheapy Junfac Wheels?

Posted

I did find attaching the tyres to my junfac beadlocks difficult (especially after narrowing) but a few tiny dots of superglue which is easily removed fixed problem and the tyres are well and truly secured now. Heres the proof.. look at that distortion!

deformed3.jpg

Got another set here to narrow and fit with Losi Rock Clawz, but first waiting for some nice, and unique beadlock rings!

Posted
I did find attaching the tyres to my junfac beadlocks difficult (especially after narrowing) but a few tiny dots of superglue which is easily removed fixed problem and the tyres are well and truly secured now. Heres the proof.. look at that distortion!

Got another set here to narrow and fit with Losi Rock Clawz, but first waiting for some nice, and unique beadlock rings!

I guess you dont use inserts then?

Posted
I guess you dont use inserts then?

Dunno about Rich, but I do.

With crawlers, the idea with the tyres is that they deform around the terrain, to give the best grip.

No foam at all ends up with a pretty sloppy ride, as there's no real shape to the tyre.

Full foam makes the tyre too firm, losing grip.

I cut the foams like this

That gives enough support but still allows the tyre to deform.

Posted
how about stretching 1.9 foams over 2.2 hubs?

Why?

2.2 tyres tend to come with 2.2 foams.

Cutting them kinda keeps the cost down :lol:

Posted
Why?

2.2 tyres tend to come with 2.2 foams.

Cutting them kinda keeps the cost down :lol:

Me. With Scissors. I have casulty on speed dial as it is....

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