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Thomas P

<<project Tamiya Lunchox>>

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1st off, im from Sweden, my English aint so good, and i hope ya all can understand some of what i will wright here..can someone post a link with the code so i can do the pics SMALLER, thank you

To make a long story, short. My first ever rc-car was a Tamiya Wildwilly got it back in -82 still have it...DRY rubberwheels :D. No electronics, but someday...i will restore it.

I have always wanted a LB, a friend had one back in the 80s and there it started...so for a few days ago, i did it..i ordred the LB from Honkong, but before everything, i read a lot of the car on rcuniverse, and here. Still a lot of unanswered questions, but hopfully they will come :).

Since im in to racing 95% of my rc time, i have a need for speed.. (2wd and 4wd buggy El 1:10th). But this one, wont come near the performance my buggys will give me, i wil only build this one for fun, and to have anything to play with..kind of missed it a bit..

I hope to "pimp" it so much i can, and do some job on the handling...a major order from Towerhobbies will go on Tuesday. Will use Brushless spedo from LRP and a motor, around 6-7.5r and Lipo 4400mah for some runtime..

This is a copy from my project thread in Sweden..enjoy and il try to keep ya all updated.

Thomas P / back to basic :P?

Tires and rims...

Bought Hornet AluHEX, they will let me try some diff 12mm Hex rims... i have or will order thoose..

RPM Bully rear/front (5mm axel r det, d r har vi Traxxas NR som e bra)

HPI SS Monster Wheel

Traxxas Front Light wheel Dyable Truck

Rims above wil be shrouded with Proline rubber

Trac-Ta-Gator

Speed Paw

Striker II.

Batteries are as i said erlier, not decided yet, but it will probably be E-Power lipo 4400 mah 2s 20-30C series

My goal with this isnt speed , only joy..it will have a custom painted Parma lexan body for use, and a "nicer" stock body for meeting...

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20/3-2008

Car is ordred, app time to arrive in Swe 1 week

21/3-2008

Alloy Hex, app 2 veeks

22/3-2008

Starting the PAINFULL job to grind down my New FT rc10B4 shockhouse...this one is the tricky part..hard anodized .

Shocks in a Mr Muscle bath

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23/3-2008

After a few hours...i was sooo close to give up...this is a true XXXX job, but something ive started i MUST end...Left house stock color..

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At last...the first one is done...

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The left one is my second, it is only "sanded, and it do realy have a weak surface, but the camera dont do it right... il think i go for the polished ones

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Stay tune for updates...

/Thomas P

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i had an rz in my lunchbox and that was a handfull! look forward to updates and a video!

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Final update for this day...Shock nr2 (the one that i only brushed)..think Dremel and a tube of Autosol can do some miracles :)

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any chance to see some pic on that installation mymonsterbeetleisbroken ? =)

EDIT Can someone kind massure the steering link/rod length ?

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Ok, so i took the motor today...my choice fell on a Novak motor, the new one with Sintred (this is used,some scratches, but ok) rotor.a 6.5r will be good.

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First some Mr Muscle bath, to remove the most of the Purple color..

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Middle ring is done..

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And the result..enjoy!

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I think you will find that it's practically undrivable. you might as well kiss those body mounts and body good bye.

just for giggles I popped a Novak 5800 SS brushless in my pumpkin. It was just too much power. I ended up putting the 15turn brushed motor back in it

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Kind of used to over motorized cars :P i will ofcourse use custom made carbonfibre bodymounts. And im aware it will be kind of difficult to drive, in that case, il throw in a bonded 7.5r :D . I will use a Lexan body, the stock one will i save =).

May i as, how does it handle with a 15?. maybe if it is so hard to drive, il get a 13.5 ? "stock bl"

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That motor is looking very nice indeed :D

My brushless pumpkin is here in my showroom.

Me and skip tested out our trucks on road earlier. His lunchbox is powered by a 17 turn motor. My pumpkin was easily twice as fast... scary!!!

Obviously you've got almost no control nearing top speed, which we guessed at about 35 + MPH. You can point it in a straight line, but thats it - the steering is simply way to twitchy to even attempt to steer at those speeds. I wouldn't recommend braking at those speeds either, as it'll roll over due to the unbalanced differential action.

But you don't have to drive it at full, or even half throttle all the time. :P It's just really cool to have so much power in reserve, and wheelies when ever you want! :P

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May i as, how does it handle with a 15?. maybe if it is so hard to drive, il get a 13.5 ? "stock bl"

The 15 turn is a handfull and the brushless was ballistic. The choice is yours but I would recomend driving it with a mild mod motor then the brushless and then take your pick.

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Cool project, overmotorized is always the way to go :unsure:

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The car arrived today...to bad was the Lipo i wanted they where out of stock...so i went for some smaller lipos.. no building untill BB arrives, that will be Thursday..hopfully all other parts will come Friday (UPS from USA to Swe...) so maybe Sunday will be a "nice day"

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Sounds like a cool project. You're going to have a hard time keeping that thing off it's lid. :unsure:;) Might as well add wheels to the roof while you're at it. ;)

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27/3-2008

So..finaly, everything but the 12mm Hornet 12mm hex have arrived..but they are ordred and abut a week or so..

Some building and parts..

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All BB

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KInd of pleased..

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Sleeves..my best friend ;)

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Some stuff :D

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I'll be interested to see if you have any clearance problems between the motor endbell and the right rear wheel. There isn't much room to spare on a stock one.

Looking good, though; I like the polished motor can.

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@markbt73 i just testmounted my stuff and it is no problem

Some update..

Mounted some shocks..

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Prolines Striker II..ME LIKE!!!!

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distance is no issue

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One word.HPI adapters seems to working ACE

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Cool :lol:

I think you will need to do the 3rd shock mod to the rear axle.

The force of the gearbox knocking up in the floating mounting points will probably break the motor off of the mounting plate (I had this problem when using a stock 27 turn motor with oil shocks!!!)

The standard set up allows the motor to hit the right rear shock. With the standard shocks, this isn't much of a problem as they give when the motor hits them. Those cool shocks you are using won't give when the motor hits them, so the motor mount plate will take the full force of the motor hitting the shock. If the mount plate doesn't break, the shock might bend instead. The 3rd shock mod on the rear axle will make sure all the power goes where it should ;)

Pics of 3rd shock mod

Pics of 3rd shock mod

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Yes i will do that, asap. last race of the indoor season this weekend, so no more LBs untill Sat night..

Did some sleeving..dont know yet if i will hold on to the "fat" sleeve, or use 3 small..

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Sounds like a cool project. You're going to have a hard time keeping that thing off it's lid. :P:D Might as well add wheels to the roof while you're at it. :D

I agree, I have already done all kinds of body restoraion to mine, and I'm only running a 19-turn. But the lexan should hold up alot better. Anyways I really like the polished motor can and the shocks. They really make it look nice. And the sleeves on the wires make the installation look super clean.

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:rolleyes: Now it begins to look like a LB...It is SatinBlack color..im not done with the chassi..still some fix..

Enjoy

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Guest joelvardy

WOW I can't wait to see this run!

LOOKS amazing!

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Very cool Thomas,

Makes me wish I hadn't sold my lunchbox.

I'm no expert on the lunchbox but I suggest you fit a shock tower brace like the in the image below:

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I'd also suggest using a set of Frog Aluminum Hex adaptors, instead of the stock wheel hubs plus HPI adaptors setup you currently have.

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Not sure if it will be relevant to you but on my Grasshopper II (same transmission as Lunchbox), I placed a shim on the left rear axel between the bevel gear & the axel bearing, this remove the excess play from the diff gears and prevent the side to side movement on the rear axels.

Can't wait to see the final result.

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NUTS!!! I love it :D

I agree with Taz-NZ, shim the axle, that will make your diff live longer as it will have much better engagement.

I've also fitted the aluminium adaptors, not so much for power handling (although that's part of it) but to fit WW2 wheels.

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