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New Dyna Storm Parts

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Hi to everyone,

here my Dyna racer for the pleasure of DS lovers. Thanks to Singapore_959 and Nimrod Racing to give me the chance to have it back on track!

More pics and info on my showroom here!

Bye

WWD :rolleyes:

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- DB01/TRF501X WO (Wide Operating Angle) Rear Universal Shafts (rebuildable and cheaper than originals for Dyna Storm).

does the TRF501X WO fit with the Nimrod B3 rear long arm V3?

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does the TRF501X WO fit with the Nimrod B3 rear long arm V3?

I think the Long arm V3 is wider than the originals from the Dyna Storm. I ordered rear universals for mine, I have a photoshop file in which I scaled pictures from the instructions (I'll post it soon). The regular universals should fit in a stock Dyna, I also compared the WO ones to the regular ones from photographs, and these are the same.

Whereas the rear universals might fall short of the needed length for the V3 long arms, assembling a combination of rear universal axle and front shaft from the universals may work to get the right length: The rear DB01/TRF501 driveshafts are 64mm, the front ones 76mm - this is quite a difference, I know, but with the four holes the rear upright has, you can widen it up further to make the universals fit ;)

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thanks for the fast response.

I´m using Dyna Blaster Shafts currently with ca. 115mm full length, but there is no spare all over the world i suspect, so i need a compatible solution.

I´ve tested 118mm CVDs from Reely- they are fitting except the drilled hole at the wheels end. I would be forced to mortise the rear upright.

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thanks for the fast response.

I´m using Dyna Blaster Shafts currently with ca. 115mm full length, but there is no spare all over the world i suspect, so i need a compatible solution.

I´ve tested 118mm CVDs from Reely- they are fitting except the drilled hole at the wheels end. I would be forced to mortise the rear upright.

Hey Joe999 your DS looks stunning and those wheels....... ;) i have to have a set of them before the next season of outdoor racing i'm starting to save money!

Universals for the long V3 are a big issue also for me and at the moment the only ones that works and fits perfectely are the Dyna Blaster, TR-15T ones, that are virtually impossible to find, seems that all sellers are run out of stock.

I'm working to find a solution and also asked the help of Singapore_959 on this matter, hope in a near future to be able to post a solution based on easy to find spares.

Still have to understand if this effort is worth, because i never tested the car in "wide" configuration and i don't know how it perform.

Bye.

WWD

:(

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thanks for the fast response.

I´m using Dyna Blaster Shafts currently with ca. 115mm full length, but there is no spare all over the world i suspect, so i need a compatible solution.

I´ve tested 118mm CVDs from Reely- they are fitting except the drilled hole at the wheels end. I would be forced to mortise the rear upright.

Hey Joe999 your DS looks stunning and those wheels....... :( i have to have a set of them before the next season of outdoor racing i'm starting to save money!

Universals for the long V3 are a big issue also for me and at the moment the only ones that works and fits perfectely are the Dyna Blaster, TR-15T ones, that are virtually impossible to find, seems that all sellers are run out of stock.

I'm working to find a solution and also asked the help of Singapore_959 on this matter, hope in a near future to be able to post a solution based on easy to find spares.

Still have to understand if this effort is worth, because i never tested the car in "wide" configuration and i don't know how it perform.

Bye.

WWD

:)

So aren't the Reely ones rebuildable? There must be some way to fit another axle to it, right? Ok, different brands will use different system, but surely there is something which should work? ;)

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Still have to understand if this effort is worth, because i never tested the car in "wide" configuration and i don't know how it perform.

I feel very confident driving the wide configuration. Shock setup against oversteering succeeded more successful.

So aren't the Reely ones rebuildable? There must be some way to fit another axle to it, right? Ok, different brands will use different system, but surely there is something which should work?

Very good Idea. The Reelys are not rebuildable by nature, but it should be possible to use the original Dyna axle nevertheless. Let me try, i´ll keep you updated.

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Regarding the rear universals from the TRF501X/DB01, here's a comparison between it and the Dyna Storm original:

Universalanim.gif

As you see, the originals are slightly longer than the originals at both the end with the thread and the end which goes into the outdrive. When using either a hex part on the shafts or using the TRF501X/DB01 rear wheels, it should work just fine, since the width can be increased with the Dyna Storm rear uprights.

Because the width of the of even the shorter rear shafts of the TRF501X/DB01 are slightly too long for the original width settings of the Dyna Storm, I think the front universal shaft and rear universal shaft axle may just make the right length for Dyna Blaster arms. I could make a photoshop file of this, too :(

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Regarding the rear universals from the TRF501X/DB01, here's a comparison between it and the Dyna Storm original:

Universalanim.gif

As you see, the originals are slightly longer than the originals at both the end with the thread and the end which goes into the outdrive. When using either a hex part on the shafts or using the TRF501X/DB01 rear wheels, it should work just fine, since the width can be increased with the Dyna Storm rear uprights.

Because the width of the of even the shorter rear shafts of the TRF501X/DB01 are slightly too long for the original width settings of the Dyna Storm, I think the front universal shaft and rear universal shaft axle may just make the right length for Dyna Blaster arms. I could make a photoshop file of this, too :)

Very nice ideas, ORC :)

Help is on the way.

I like your ideas and I think they would work ok. As you say the rear hubs have several location holes to adjust the track.

Part of the spirit of the project is to keep things as simple & cost effective as possible for owners, to that end buying several uni's to dismantle and assemble to fit doesn't fit the ethos. When I started this I had alot of driveshafts and getting them wasn't an issue. Now that's not the case and I have added finding a solution to this supply of suitable (avail & low cost) 'wide' config uni's to the overall project. I have some things in mind but my current non-rc issues have to come first.

Meanwhile if a solution is not available in time for races I have offered WWD to send him a set out of my own race car to use for his race meet.

If we have more owners out there who really need them for racing then perhaps this set can become a 'floating' pair going around by post until I have the time/ability to finalize the right solution. ;)

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Very nice ideas, ORC ;)

Help is on the way.

I like your ideas and I think they would work ok. As you say the rear hubs have several location holes to adjust the track.

Part of the spirit of the project is to keep things as simple & cost effective as possible for owners, to that end buying several uni's to dismantle and assemble to fit doesn't fit the ethos. When I started this I had alot of driveshafts and getting them wasn't an issue. Now that's not the case and I have added finding a solution to this supply of suitable (avail & low cost) 'wide' config uni's to the overall project. I have some things in mind but my current non-rc issues have to come first.

Thanks :) Lucky enough though, Tamiya sells the shaft/dogbone part seperately, too. So you could buy the rear universal shafts and front axle and assemble it :D I've had some issues with making the file of the Dyna Blaster (more than with the Dyna Storm), and therefor I can't assure you for 100% that all dimensions are correct, but this is what turned out with the manual scans when scaled to the same axle thickness (5mm on both universals):

BlasterUniversalanim.gif

In theory, and according to this image, it would fit :o To check whether this is right, could you measure the length of the Dyna Blaster shaft/dogbone part? (From the point where the shaft pivots to the rods that slide into the outdrives).

PS: And even if it does fit, I have to admit that buying and putting together parts of different universal shafts is still experimental and not an ideal solution to such a problem :)

PS#2: Both animations are in the same scale so it's easier to compare them.

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Well my new front end is on and fits good (with a little file here and there) also I have fitted the TRF501X shocks on it for racing this Sunday as my new set ent got here from Dinball yet. I have got hot bodies D4 rear wheels and original gator front wheels to fit the racing tires on and the new Nimrod rear wing. I meant no offence to Singapore 959 saying I "race" my cars and did not mean to say that you didn't. It's just 90% of TC members do not race there cars. Will be giving the car a good thrashing on Sunday as i now have tires and wheels to get the power down and will post results and comments on the changes to the car.

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Well my new front end is on and fits good (with a little file here and there) also I have fitted the TRF501X shocks on it for racing this Sunday as my new set ent got here from Dinball yet. I have got hot bodies D4 rear wheels and original gator front wheels to fit the racing tires on and the new Nimrod rear wing. I meant no offence to Singapore 959 saying I "race" my cars and did not mean to say that you didn't. It's just 90% of TC members do not race there cars. Will be giving the car a good thrashing on Sunday as i now have tires and wheels to get the power down and will post results and comments on the changes to the car.

Good news! Keep us updated!! :)

Bye

WWD

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Regarding the rear universals from the TRF501X/DB01, here's a comparison between it and the Dyna Storm original:

Be aware that to use DB01 or TRF501X axles will require the use of DB01/501X wheels, as they use a smaller hex on the front and pin drive on the rear with different wheel offsets compared to the rest of Tamiyas buggies. The axles are a smaller diameter, so although you can slip a hex drive and Dynastorm wheel on there it won't run true as it won't be centred properly. You would have to use either 501X/DB01 wheels, or rear wheels designed for the Associated B4.

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Be aware that to use DB01 or TRF501X axles will require the use of DB01/501X wheels, as they use a smaller hex on the front and pin drive on the rear with different wheel offsets compared to the rest of Tamiyas buggies. The axles are a smaller diameter, so although you can slip a hex drive and Dynastorm wheel on there it won't run true as it won't be centred properly. You would have to use either 501X/DB01 wheels, or rear wheels designed for the Associated B4.

Thanks for the info :( I know the axles have a very narrow, small hex on the front and only a pin on the rear, but I wasn't aware of the smaller axle diameter at the point where the wheels go. I have no problem though with running some AE B4 or DB01/TRF buggy wheels; I was planning to use the B4's front wheels for the car anyway (it has 1050 size bearings and can be fitted with nicely wide tires), and rears would fit just fine with that - I would even have the option to go with JConcepts' Rulux B4 buggy wheels :)

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Well the first two rounds of kiddy went OK with the new set up and front end after we added as much weight to the front as we could but then my new better front end snapped. It snapped in 4 places but as this only means that front shock tower is a bit wobbly. I went on to get forth in the B final against lots of better and newer cars. I will now be talking to Nimrod racing about How they tested there car due to the fact for a product that had been race tested, I would like to know where they tested it as a jelly mould would seem to be a more appropriate surface, for what little impact it took to brake. I will not be buying another of these parts for my car as i think that i can get 2 tamiya ones for the price of there best one and another 2 for the price of there shipping so if i broke 1 per round i would still get more use for my money. To Singapore i have to say that when i went on the site and asked about the 501 slipper clutch shaft i got a nice reply but not in any language that even babel fish could translate. I am not saying that there parts are **** it's just i can't see them being a good replacement for the original ones if you race off road. I have been racing for 23 years and have been a national champion and so am not some amateur before i get any "you can't race" posts.

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Hi Malcolm,

I am no longer in Europe so I cannot help directly, but I'd like to know what has happened and will email nimrod about it. Which parts (and when) did you buy from nimrod and which exactly broke? The bumper, the D part or something else?

  • Some mixes of the above parts were prone to cracking, and certainly a couple of the first prototypes snapped after, and one before, where the D part mounts. I can't imagine you have one made from any those material mixes though. The guys at Nimrod continually evolve their materials and designs, so let's see what they say. Certainly I'm disappointed you have a part that has broken. Based on my experience with them and past service that I know they gave other customers I am sure they will respond well.
  • I can't comment on their website response as I don't know what you received, but they always use English or German with their international customers. I am presuming you either got an automated response in Hungarian (which is translatable) or some sort of html error message.

Why would anyone make any comment about your level of skill? I wanted parts to improve on originals - totally irrelevant whether one can drive well or crashes hard/often.

sounds good until the break :) 4th in B is getting up towards where I like to see racing Dyna's <_<

Glad to hear you were giving it to the moderns and enjoying the Dyna! B):lol::unsure:

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I don't know if one is interested in more information and pictures on it, but I'd like to mention that the DB01 WO Universal shafts (together with the DB01 wheels) make a very nice fit on the Dyna Storm B) Here are some pictures of the modification:

DSC01356.jpg

DSC01360.jpg

DSC01362.jpg

As you see, there is some space between the pin for the wheel and the end of the upright. This can be filled up with a spacer on either the inside or outside of the upright, making the width adjustable. Here are a few pictures of the original universals:

DSC01368.jpg

DSC01369.jpg

When comparing them, it's visible that the point where the shaft sort of hinges on the new one is almost the same as on the Dyna Storm original, actually a little further outwards, so it won't make for problems on either the angle of the shaft or being in the way on the suspension arms. Also, the length at which both shafts go into the diff outdrives is about the same. In short, a perfect fit and a good upgrade for the car once the originals are worn (or if you want less play in the shafts)!

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Cool! Well done. :(

I like your uberlightweight gearbox too! :(

Hehe :( Yeah, I have to admit that it does save a lot of weight on the car (although I didn't expect the mod would help a lot)! It will require some more tweaking on the suspension stiffness on the rear, but having no drive at all has made a big difference already: It makes the car really balanced through corners :) I am not allowed to run it in any race class like this though, so I will have to put the heavy gearbox back on soon... B)

Edit: I am having issues with the WO Universal Shafts. I thought I'd have to let you guys know about this. They do fit, but somehow I'm having issues with the wheels binding when I am using spacers to fill up the blank metal of the axle as seen in the pictures I posted earlier. Also, the dogbone is actually shorter than the Dyna Storm original, apparently ;) Therefor, it seems to have issues with staying in the diff outdrives when the ground clarance is at the stock setup. This means you'll have to to have almost zero droop and the driveshafts in approximately a straight line to have the driveshafts far enough into the diff outdrives to prevent excessive wear. In short, I will need to get a replacement shaft part which is longer. The Tamiya front ones (78mm instead of 64mm) would work at the widest setting, but might be a bit too deeply into diff outdrives, reducing the potential suspension movement alltogether.

For this I have looked at the Associated B4 MIP CVD's. They seem to have about the same construction. I've asked an ebay seller to measure the part, and if it is indeed longer (which seems like it) and if it fits to the Tamiya axle, I will buy it to try it out. If the length is right but doesn't fit the Tamiya axle, I will get a whole B4 MIP CVD set. If the length isn't right AND doesn't fit the axle, I will continue the search.

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Nice work fitting the WO shafts but how do they fit with the 501/DB01 rear hubs i wonder ? I'm using original shafts with an astute hex cut down so it will not bind up as astute hex's only go on one way. I run hot bodies D4 wheels at the rear and they fit perfectly. I may take the rear shafts out the 501 and try them in the dyna to see if they fit better.

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Nice work fitting the WO shafts but how do they fit with the 501/DB01 rear hubs i wonder ? I'm using original shafts with an astute hex cut down so it will not bind up as astute hex's only go on one way. I run hot bodies D4 wheels at the rear and they fit perfectly. I may take the rear shafts out the 501 and try them in the dyna to see if they fit better.

Well, you made the modification once, right? It's in your showroom. Because the universal shafts of the TRF501/DB01 swivel closer to the end of the end of the axle than the Dyna Storm ones, modification to the suspension arm will probably not be needed anymore. BUt if the width issue will be solved, I don't know. I think you would still need a front dogbone, and I found out yesterday that whilst the dogbone of the standard universals is for sale seperately, I can't seem to find the dogbone of the WO universals seperately available B) So for those reasons I am now looking for the dimensions of a replacement dogbone from Associated's B4 CVD's.

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Yes!!! Today I received my order I made at Nimrod recently! Here are some pictures of my two Dyna's and the runner in detail that has the Nimrod parts fitted:

DSC01372.jpg

DSC01374.jpg

Note the difference in ride height... My runner is going to be so much more stable than my shelf queen when I tried it out with the lower centre of gravity and wider tires! :lol:

DSC01382.jpg

DSC01380.jpg

DSC01378.jpg

The wing is still unpainted. It will be soon, and I think I'm going to give a try with Nitro Fuel on the body, respray and re-decal the lot.

DSC01396.jpg

I've got TR-15T steering knuckles instead of the originals... The RC10B4 wheels will be modified and fitted soon.

DSC01394.jpg

DSC01392.jpg

DSC01390.jpg

Lovely curves, just the best looking 2WD racing/competition buggy ever made!

DSC01384.jpg

DSC01387.jpg

So there's the parts that I got in today. Front suspension block and the mount on which they go. The suspension block needed a tiny bit of viling and I needed different screws to fit in the copper threads. The result is great, the front end is noticably stiffer now, the problems with the press nuts will be gone and the undercowl will nicely fit with the bumper. Great parts! ;)

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Gosh, that looks GREAT!!! I haven't seen my car for so long I forgot how good the car can look.

Seriously why do you want to paint that shell again, the white looks SO nice especially coupled with your white springs. (What are they from, btw?)

I think that looks way better than any of the car shells / paint combo's I have had. I like it!

Rear dishes look good. Mine look **** as they are all marked and blackened from racing, I must get them cleaned a bit to look nice again. Funny never tried, I wonder what cleans marks of the wheels?

The TR knuckles make for faster steering, I enjoyed using them but I had to play with the steering speed and expo on the TX to get totally comfortable.

Good to see!!!! White for the wing? :D

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Best way to clean white plastic is to use a little motor spray and a toothbrush. Then wash them in the sink...

As for the wing, just leave it clear. My DS always likes to land upside down. The wing is the first thing to get beat up...

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