New Dyna Storm Parts

[joe999 10]

...And I think you still have the MDC in it as well?

Yes, original MDC in both. I could reduce weight a little more using the original dampers, but using the big Kyosho´s, i have a wonderfull setup for driving.

[94eg! 834]

Had a couple runs with my box-stock DS this past weekend at the local indoor clay track. Running a 23T pinion, Acto off-roader (the real one), Tamiya CPR P160-F, and Orion 2400mah lipo made for a pretty fun car. That is after I swapped out the rubbish kit rear tires for some prolines on Kyosho ZX5 wheels (which fit perfectly). The kit rib-spike front tires provided very little steering, but at least the car was very stable. The 23T pinion was definitely too small for the track, but the punch was fabulous. The car would simply rocket out of turns and off jumps. It's been a few years since driving off-road on a track, but I had a blast. The car held up great and only needed re-tightening of a few rear suspension components on one side (rear lower arm mount and rear upper arm mount). I did loose a front lower spring cup, but a spare part from a 501X parts tree fit perfect and got me running again (the longer lower mounts on the 501X tree). I actually lost one of these 501X cups as well, but managed to locate it on the track.

[Kaminagayuchi 41]

Dyna Lightning

Motor: Team Orion Revolution Modified 11x2, Robitronic Speedstar II 8 turn

Servo: Graupner Z590, Receiver: Lexors Micro 5

Accu: Team Orion Hardcase 3800mAh Lipo

Kyosho 1:8 Damper

Weight: 1505 Gramm

Dyna Storm

Motor: Team Orion Revolution Modified 11x1, GM V80R

Servo: Graupner Z590, Receiver: Graupner SB6

Akku: Team Orion Hardcase 3800mAh Lipo

Weight: 1710 Gramm

Wahoo !!!! It's amazing !

[joe999 10]

Wahoo !!!! It's amazing !

Yes, and so beautifull and stable. I had a full throttle frontal crash against a DT-02, full throttle also, free of damage, not even a hairline crack at the upper deck or bulkhead. It´s my favorite, for sure.

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

I just drove my Dyna runner on tarmac with some onroad-ish tires with a fully charged battery... I'm still in shock!....

I either need to tune it down a 'tiny' bit to get it stable, or find the right suspension setup. This thing is MAD!

I equiped the car with Proline Dirt Hawgs on the rear and 4 rib 2WD buggy tires on the front to drive it onroad. The car currently runs a 10.5 sensored brushless combo from Losi. I have some problems taking off from a motor that's not rotating at all (it just stutters - I go off the throttle, go back on the throttle, it stutters again... And after a few times of doing this it takes off on it's own power), but once it's going it goes soooo quick. The first few minutes I spent finding out what noise was what... I thought the slipper or the diff (though I made sure before the run that the diff was tighter than the slipper) was slipping. It seems that it doesn't though, but the tires do, mainly on paved roads instead. It accelerates with huge power, I never seen this before... The cornering speed is high and the tires give good grip... Maybe the front now has too much grip actually. Even though the rear is set up pretty soft and the front a lot harder than stock, it still seems to be pretty tailhappy at times. Sometimes it's caused by another glitch from the ESC+motor which I need to adress; it seems that it's (drag) braking when I go off the throttle while I did clearly turn that off. I don't think the fronts are of a grippier compound, as the car often does feel stable, the rubber feels approximately the same and there even is understeer at hard acceleration and cornering. The Dyna Blaster arms may (now I think of it) also add to the instability it sometimes has. The width is actually bigger right now than the wheelbase.

Anyway, I'll post some pictures of it soon... It looks pretty monsterous with those huge Dirt Hawgs on the back and the wide arms I prefer the look of the original Dyna Storm by a long way, but this runner version in it's own odd way looks ok

[Singapore_959 18]

I just drove my Dyna runner on tarmac with some onroad-ish tires with a fully charged battery... I'm still in shock!....

I either need to tune it down a 'tiny' bit to get it stable, or find the right suspension setup. This thing is MAD!

I equiped the car with Proline Dirt Hawgs on the rear and 4 rib 2WD buggy tires on the front to drive it onroad. The car currently runs a 10.5 sensored brushless combo from Losi. I have some problems taking off from a motor that's not rotating at all (it just stutters - I go off the throttle, go back on the throttle, it stutters again... And after a few times of doing this it takes off on it's own power), but once it's going it goes soooo quick. The first few minutes I spent finding out what noise was what... I thought the slipper or the diff (though I made sure before the run that the diff was tighter than the slipper) was slipping. It seems that it doesn't though, but the tires do, mainly on paved roads instead. It accelerates with huge power, I never seen this before... The cornering speed is high and the tires give good grip... Maybe the front now has too much grip actually. Even though the rear is set up pretty soft and the front a lot harder than stock, it still seems to be pretty tailhappy at times. Sometimes it's caused by another glitch from the ESC+motor which I need to adress; it seems that it's (drag) braking when I go off the throttle while I did clearly turn that off. I don't think the fronts are of a grippier compound, as the car often does feel stable, the rubber feels approximately the same and there even is understeer at hard acceleration and cornering. The Dyna Blaster arms may (now I think of it) also add to the instability it sometimes has. The width is actually bigger right now than the wheelbase.

Anyway, I'll post some pictures of it soon... It looks pretty monsterous with those huge Dirt Hawgs on the back and the wide arms I prefer the look of the original Dyna Storm by a long way, but this runner version in it's own odd way looks ok

LOL I did tell you about the wide front!

It's GREAT to see Dyna's being used outside and enjoyed!! Keep it up!!

For tarmac my absolute favourite set up is the wide rear and std front. The car slides beeeeeaaaaauuuuutifully on demand and still has steering at speed with proper tires. Leaving a bit of squat in the rear helps alot for traction. I can't comment on your motor issues but I think it gets too mental brushless on tarmac. If I can slide all day long with a brushed motor then you have to use a gentle brushless to continue such fun imo.

10mins sliding on tarmac used to be just the perfect pick me up activity last year I can still hear the noise now!

Plus its always very entertaining for passing kids to watch

The clutch shaft is still on, just taken a back seat for a few months.

[94eg! 834]

Widening the track-width at one end reduces grip at that end of the car. This is a principal of tuning. I'm having a hard time understanding why you would want Dyna Blaster arms on your car. Of course I've never run mine on tarmac with good tires either...

BTW: Now maybe you guys are starting to see why Sensored brushless technology is the way to go. It's all about being able to apply huge amounts of power smoothly. If your throttle acts like an on/off switch, the car is going to be very hard to control. When your throttle is very smooth and precise, you can apply power at will and maintain control and consistency. This is why sensorless never made it anywhere in racing...

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

Here it is

@Singapore: Now I understand why you had that setup on earlier pictures The brushless is a MONSTER, I never expected it to have such power and as 94eg mentioned, so smoothly!!! (It's my finger on the trigger that's letting the consistency on the throttle down right now at the most) - I will try out several setups soon, including regular arms everywhere and wide arms on the rear only - I'm curious to see what turns out best

@94eg: I am running mine with DB arms to try it out I'm in for finding the setup that works best for me. And as for the (sensored) brushless, I never really looked at why sensored would be a better option... I mainly bought this Xcelorin system because it was up for grabs for good money here on the forums, I could set it up to suit my specifications a little better and it had a LiPo cut off... The sensored system was just an extra that I didn't even really look at, but now I've driven it I did notice it

[Singapore_959 18]

Cool to see! It's great fun to play with them and feel the differences in different set ups/parts

I am sure I have seen some of those parts before

I have to say, I do like the paint work. I am seeing alot of blue paint schemes recently that I really like. I might have to try blue something in future!

Your front tires look nice and soft. The rears I have not seen before but they look quite good for rain use. My slicks were always useless on wet surfaces, these look like a good potential for that.

[WillyChang 1814]

looks like Proline Dirt Hawg

can also get Road Hawg with a more tarmac-like pattern

[redzone 212]

hey pierre i must thank you for that body, i finally got it LOL

makes my dyna storm look like a dyna storm again hahaha.

[60000RPM 1]

hi S'pore ,

I want to built a DL from all the part from Nimrod, but can't find any complete package set and the chassis/top plate too.

[joe999 10]

I´ve got all the parts by sending them a high priority mail. Top plate, cooler etc. never appeared in the web shop until today.

[Singapore_959 18]

hi S'pore ,

I want to built a DL from all the part from Nimrod, but can't find any complete package set and the chassis/top plate too.

Hi 60000RPM,

please PM me your email address and I will email Nimrod and include you in the email, this has worked well for the last orders.

[Singapore_959 18]

Just going through some photos and found this one of the 1st prototype lightning chassis. There are only 2. This black carbon one which has one or two imperfections and the kevlar composite one shown in the other DL photo preview thread.

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

Just going through some photos and found this one of the 1st prototype lightning chassis. There are only 2. This black carbon one which has one or two imperfections and the kevlar composite one shown in the other DL photo preview thread.

Reminds me of the fact that I still want to buy all Nimrod hopup parts (except for the Repro body and just one set of arms, not the wide ones as spare - Oh and if possible, the tub)... Do you happen to know how much that would approximately set me back?

It reminds me of another something... I drove my Dyna over the last two days, and it was so much fun! It did almost got run over by a car: It flipped over 50 metres from me and just as it happened, a car came by me - So I decided it was the right moment to run

I am surprised by how well it runs over bumps and jumps, I thought any RC car would be all over the place really (never tried the really rough stuff before), but the Dyna showed me differently It does have problems with body roll though, both with wide and narrow rear arms (and narrow on the front) - especially on tarmac (hence why it flipped over). I have ordered a TA05 stabilizer set and I will be looking at making small custom plates/blocks to fit them to the chassis, both for front and rear.

PS: Now I just need someone who can make some action pictures of my Dyna...

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

Hi everyone,

Just a few questions I got my Dyna running and it's great fun, but it seems that I'm having trouble with visible wear and a ticking noise from the gearbox after just a few runs (5-6 runs of +/- 25-30 minutes each). The steel pinion I got seems to wear quickly. There did enter a little bit of fine sand dust but not rough grit and sand as far as I can see - the wear on the pinion does suggest this however, as - although it's basic shape is still ok (and so is that of the spur gear) - it has a very rough surface now and pretty deep dents from what I'm used to.

Now before I jump to conclusions myself and check (and maybe change) the whole lot, or be worried because it just makes some more noise... How long do you think it usually takes for you to wear down a spur gear and pinion in normal use, and how long does it take you for a gearbox to wear down?

PS: I will make a picture of the mesh I have for pinion+spur. I think it is good as it is, but I'd like the opinions of other people as well.

[94eg! 834]

The DS includes two spur gears of different pitch. One spur will say 0.4 on it (metric 0.4module), and the other says 64p (SAE 64pitch). Are you sure your running the proper pinion with the spur?

I've run the stock 04 spur with tamiya gears for years now. I used both the kit steel 23T as well as Tamiya's RD 26 & 27 tooth steel pinions and everything still looks like new. I've had the car for 5 years now...

Another problem could be proper mesh. Try using a small piece of plastic bag between the two gears to set mesh. There needs to be a small amount of running clearance for proper life of the gears. If mesh is set correctly, gears will be nearly silent when you spin the spur quickly with your finger...

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

The DS includes two spur gears of different pitch. One spur will say 0.4 on it (metric 0.4module), and the other says 64p (SAE 64pitch). Are you sure your running the proper pinion with the spur?

I've run the stock 04 spur with tamiya gears for years now. I used both the kit steel 23T as well as Tamiya's RD 26 & 27 tooth steel pinions and everything still looks like new. I've had the car for 5 years now...

Another problem could be proper mesh. Try using a small piece of plastic bag between the two gears to set mesh. There needs to be a small amount of running clearance for proper life of the gears. If mesh is set correctly, gears will be nearly silent when you spin the spur quickly with your finger...

I do run the correct pinion with the correct spur And I think the mesh is ok, but I'll take a picture of it (see below) - I also use sealed bearings, so nothing should be able to enter from there either.

I am suspecting that the pinion I bought is not of the best quality. It's one from Carson, a 27T 0.4 RD Steel Pinion. (I've always found that Carson has a different level of quality: The only ESC I ever burned up came from them, their shells are extremely thin and fragile, and now I have trouble with their steel pinion).

I do drive in loose sand which is now pretty dusty because it's been dry for a while, but it shouldn't matter so much... For example, after more than 30 runs I checked the steel pinion of my Traxxas E-Revo 1/16, which does have a cover, but it not sealed as it's open at the underside/close to the chassis. The pinion had a few tiny dents, but only on the edges/side of the pinion.

Do you grease your spur and pinion or not? And do you seal off the compartments with gears with silicon sealant or not?

Edit: Here are the pictures:

As you can see, the pinion had quite jagged edges already, though it still has it's basic shape. However, by the looks of the metal dust close to the motor I think it won't be long before the teeth are not symmetrical anymore... You can by the way also see how dusty the car is... It has a beige-brown colour on it, like it's been standing in a sand storm.

PS: Yesterday seemed to be the wrong day to drive anyway... I now have a wobbling wheel, have a bearing with play in it (on the same side as the wobbling wheel), have a wrong camber angle now on that same corner, bent my wing stay/rod, the undercowl seperated from the car and buckled in the loose sand two times (once at the front, once at the back somehow even) and I scratched the rear shock tower pretty hard.

This all happened in two crashes that happened after each other probably in one minute. I checked the car briefly, wanted to run again but it didn't feel good, as I always try to drive my car carefully, so I quit running after more or less using half the battery power. Murphy's law seemed to be in full effect yesterday...

[94eg! 834]

Definitely don't use lube on the gears. A little dust is fine on 04mod. The gear cover is all you need to keep the larger bits out. Just avoid water...

The problem to me seems to be the pinion. It's teeth are definitely chewed up. Get yourself the Tamiya pinions. 29T and under are all made of steel. Everything under 27T from Tamiya are called the RD pinions. The 28T/29T set are just called 0.4module. Hopefully your spur isn't already lost. I'm not sure, but I think the spur gears cost quite a bit on eBay right now. You can always try flipping the spur over. This will allow you run on the opposite side of the teeth. Of course I'm not sure if the DS spur has the ability to be flipped around...

Sorry your having a tough time with the car. Perhaps you can sell it and get the upcoming TRF201... lol

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

Definitely don't use lube on the gears. A little dust is fine on 04mod. The gear cover is all you need to keep the larger bits out. Just avoid water...

The problem to me seems to be the pinion. It's teeth are definitely chewed up. Get yourself the Tamiya pinions. 29T and under are all made of steel. Everything under 27T from Tamiya are called the RD pinions. The 28T/29T set are just called 0.4module. Hopefully your spur isn't already lost. I'm not sure, but I think the spur gears cost quite a bit on eBay right now. You can always try flipping the spur over. This will allow you run on the opposite side of the teeth. Of course I'm not sure if the DS spur has the ability to be flipped around...

Sorry your having a tough time with the car. Perhaps you can sell it and get the upcoming TRF201... lol

Well I will indeed buy a TRF201, but that will live a shelf life next to my shelf queen Dyna Storm and I intend to keep running this one... Maybe I change my mind as soon as I have my first TRF201, but we shall see Most likely is though that I keep running this car for a simple reason... I'm gonna have all the spares I could ever possibly want in hopefully less than 48 hours: I bought a lot of Dyna Storm and Lightning parts from Singapore 959 a few days ago.

Plus, I hope to see the price drop of the Dyna Storm now many people are going to buy a TRF201 and sell on their Dyna

If the price of spares (including spur) keeps being high, it may be time to check with Nimrod or another company to see if they could help me shove a rear gearbox and suspension (and possibly front suspension too) from a TRF201 on a Dyna Storm. That would mean a TRF201 with a shell and shock towers from the Dyna Storm: A perfect match of engineering and looks?

[wildwillydriver 33]

My Dyna yesterday had his first regional race of this year and entered the A Main in 6th position!

Very happy about the performance with new Asso front and rear shocks and Novak 8.5ss brusheless sensored motor with GTB ESC, scary fast......

Thanks a lot to Singapore959 and Nimrod racing for advices and parts supply, top class guys.

Unfortunately i have no action pics but just a couple of pit shots:

Bye

WWD

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

Nice post Wildwillydriver What Nimrod hopups do you use? Yours seems pretty stock from the chassis picture?

Anyway, today there arrived a package at my humble and small headquarters... A package from Hungary, from the man himself, Singapore 959... He recently sold all his Dyna Storm and Dyna Lightning parts and car(s) to me.

I made an attempt to realize what's all included... But it's nearly impossible! There are a lot of parts, many prototype parts as well, clear, white and light grey parts... Really cool It's a pity that of some parts I don't have pairs, just only one of them, but still it makes for a very extraordinary collection.

I'll try to make pictures soon, but for now I can't - I don't have the time for it, I could take a full day to sort everything and make pictures of the same type of parts grouped together. All I do know is that there are some very nice parts among there, like a low carbon front shock tower, a carbon-plastic hybrid rear shock tower (pity it has a broken moulded in wing mount), a carbon motor mount, aluminum uprights (front and rear) and magnesium+aluminum alloy Rear suspension blocks.

All I can say is that if someone is looking for both original Dyna Storm and Nimrod tuning parts, drop me an email or PM. I can't afford to keep it all, both due to limited room and limited money (it was quite an investment for me).

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

I thought it would be nice to post this:

This is the Dyna Lightning that came along in the purchase from Singapore 959. I took it apart, cleaned it, polished the chassis plates lightly and started the rebuild by now. Right now things are on hold as I need some hex head screws (in titanium), a Nimrod carbon plate rear shock tower, a Nimrod front bumper and possibly the blade rear wheels.

Pretty much everything on this Dyna says Carbon right now: even the motor plate and left side gearbox plate are carbon ones. It also has front uprights from Square, rear uprights of unknown origin and Nimrod's aluminum+magnesium alloy rear suspension blocks I am usually not that much of a fan of all the bling bits, but it's coming together very nicely! I also consider to replace the original wing stay with these that come from the DF03. I should be able to get something lighter (TRF201 ones maybe?) soon but for mockup these are ok.

[Singapore_959 18]

That looks very nice.

I am very glad to see so much passion and enjoyment with it

Nice photos.

Rears are blue Square's also. The square parts are the lightest, and only come with one tierod ballstud mounting hole.

The Five Stars hubs are the second lightest and were avail in silver and blue; and are easy to distinguish even if you don't have any reference available as they come with 2 ball stud mounting holes (front and rear).

There is a small square pink piece of paper somewhere in the box that has the exact weights of these parts written down. The Square are better in every respect, but they also cost more and are expensive (30euro for a pair!).