Singapore_959

New Dyna Storm Parts

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I understand your switch to the TRF201, still it´s a shame to see one of the more hardcore Dyna drivers retiring his car to the shelf :D I wouldn't retire it completely, I'm sure you can take it to a race event and race it before or after the actual events - or at a local track :D

I'll keep you informed on the parts - I really hope that I can get some useful information tomorrow from the employees at my school's workshop tomorrow to get this project going!

Don't worry i couldn't forget about my DS after all the effort i put on it to make it competitive and be able to resist a track day, but will be only used on vintage events on simple track days.

Keep me updated!

Bye.

WWD

B)

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Don't worry i couldn't forget about my DS after all the effort i put on it to make it competitive and be able to resist a track day, but will be only used on vintage events on simple track days.

Keep me updated!

Bye.

WWD

:)

Great to hear that :) It's nice knowing that the knowlegde and the enthusiasm about the car is still there! :D

I'm currently still stuggling to get my onroad setup completely right... a weight balance further to the front seems to help against the understeer, but then the problem occurs that the inside wheel gets too much drive (despite the diff not being too loose) - I might have to reduce the body roll even further so there's a more even pressure on the back wheels for more efficient power supply with the weight on the front.

And eh... the update I promised...

I asked one of the employees in the workshop today about the injection moulding and send me to another employee who had the most experience with the mould making and injection moulding process at our school. He told me that the school has no issues with me starting such a project - The only bad news is that it may take a long time to complete; he told me that the students in the second year are currently working on a project for injection moulding, and in groups of 6 people, working at least 4 hours a week on it, it's taking them 12 weeks to get the design done and come to the final product. That might be the reason why he seemed to prefer the idea of the mould being put to use for as high production numbers as possible being that there's so much effort to put in preparing everything for getting the first part. :lol:

As for the materials... He said that the small machine we have is restricted to a content of 25cc, and that it possibly can't heat all materials to a point where they can be injection moulded. I mentioned though that I'd contact the manufacturer of the machine about it, and they told me that the machine should be able to mould any thermoplastic! :D I'm really happy with that, as that will enable me to choose from many more materials than the PE and PP that they stock at school. It means I'll be able to use Delrin or ABS, which seem to be widely used in the RC industry, and at first glance also seem to fit the job right when it comes to the specifications of the materials.

So in short... I need to keep my motivation up, as it will be a hard project as it's my first year on this school - but I want to make this happen! :)

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Mine is still sitting broken on my pool table, i'll be up for a pair for sure.

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Mine is still sitting broken on my pool table, i'll be up for a pair for sure.

Nice to hear there are people interested in these parts :lol: Not to nice to hear though that your Dyna is broken... Ah well, I better develop the mould for the part quickly then! I'm learning to use Solidworks right now (the model I had earlier was made in another 3D modeling/CAD program which has less options), and with the help of a few friends (who have more experience in Solidworks) I can probably work out the part pretty far.

The only problem is that I am restricted with the moulds to a volume of 25cc. This means that I might not be able to mould a one-piece suspension block at my school. It also means that a front suspension block probably is too large for production at my school. They did tell me though that if budget allows it, they may buy a second injection moulding machine (I have high hopes that they'll buy a larger one then, too!) :D

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Mine is still sitting broken on my pool table, i'll be up for a pair for sure.

Sad to hear that, probably i can help, PM or email me if you are intrested! ;)

Bye

WWD

;)

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Sad to hear that, probably i can help, PM or email me if you are intrested! ;)

Bye

WWD

:)

;) Yeah, you did buy a lot of the stock I had actually! Especially lots of those interesting TR-15T bits. Do you by any chance have a few parts of the TR-15T that I could buy back by the way for my Nimrod Racing Dyna? (If you still have them) ;) I'm looking for:

- D4 part (gearbox/shock tower brace)

- D7 part

*Note that the numbers are from the trees of the Dyna Storm, not the TR-15T.

If I would have these parts, I would pretty much have every single part in a reinforced plastic or in another way different from the stock car ;) Just to finish it off :P

Besides those parts the only things I need for the car are a set of rear wheels from Nimrod, the front bumper and a carbon shock tower. I really want these parts, but it seems to be impossible to get Nimrod Parts second hand or in new condition from someone who bought them in the past - and the R-Design Studio seems to be occupied with more important things (I think they need the big projects more than making parts for us - as I have the doubts on how profitable it is considering the labour that is needed to make those parts. I will give them a call next week though and see what they're up to. It would be so cool if I could finally finish that car (It's spec is mindblowing really, but the way it is now it's just sitting there, it's incomplete and for me doesn't do justice to the car making a showroom entry of it as it is now).

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I'm Starting to stop running my D/S due to the rear blocks being weak.

I do keep a real good eye on the screws and thread lock them but still come loose.

REALLY don't want a $430 Au car sitting on my shelf broken. This is by far my most Expensive Runner.

Please get this re made.

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I'm Starting to stop running my D/S due to the rear blocks being weak.

I do keep a real good eye on the screws and thread lock them but still come loose.

REALLY don't want a $430 Au car sitting on my shelf broken. This is by far my most Expensive Runner.

Please get this re made.

That´s a real shame to hear ;) The Nimrod Racing ones do solve a big part of the problems, but in the end it's best to check your suspension blocks at least after each run, but if possible after every crash as well. I experienced that even the Nimrod Racing ones that use the copper threads can loosen slightly after a crash - and it's not only the part that needs to be strong - if anything increases the danger of damage to the car, it is when these parts are loose.

I haven't tried it, but I think a strong type of silicon sealant between the block and the chassis plate would help as well in combination with threadlock and/or nyloc nuts ;) My parts will use nyloc nuts, and I'll test the older version of the suspension block from Nimrod soon as it also uses nyloc nuts and see how it performs. I will need to do everything I can to make sure that mine will not loosen, or to the least extent possible.

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:) Yeah, you did buy a lot of the stock I had actually! Especially lots of those interesting TR-15T bits. Do you by any chance have a few parts of the TR-15T that I could buy back by the way for my Nimrod Racing Dyna? (If you still have them) ;) I'm looking for:

- D4 part (gearbox/shock tower brace)

- D7 part

*Note that the numbers are from the trees of the Dyna Storm, not the TR-15T.

If I would have these parts, I would pretty much have every single part in a reinforced plastic or in another way different from the stock car :lol: Just to finish it off :P

Hi Mate,

will ceck asap in my spares and let you know if i have something left for you.

Bye

WWD

:)

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Hi Mate,

will ceck asap in my spares and let you know if i have something left for you.

Bye

WWD

:lol:

Cool, thanks ;)

In the meantime I've been busy on the design again, and I've managed to get the part made in Solidworks now:

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I integrated round edges everywhere in the part like the real thing will. I still need to taper the ribs slightly so that the part will come out of the mould easily and I forgot to add the dips/holes for the nuts, hence no images from the 'top' side of the part.

I'll ask a friend of mine to help me with stress testing the parts in the program, so there is still a long way ahead - I really need to make the part perfect first time, I can´t afford to waste money, time or effort making a second mould :D

And I´ve got some good news for the one-piece part. According to the calculations the software made for me, I should be far enough within the volume limits to make a one-piece rear suspension block. This means I might - if this project is a success - also develop a front suspension block! :D

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Keep going - looks like you're doing a good job with these. :)

Thanks :) I've been working some more on it in the meantime, I've added the dips for the nuts, adjusted the edges a bit, etc... I'm going to show this next week to the man at the workshop, and if I have the time for it, I'll start on a one-piece version - the first exams of my school are coming though, so I better focus on that! :P

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I know, the glass version wasn't really necessary :) Fun to look at though!

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So eh... Is there interest for a new potential supplier of suspension blocks for the Dyna Storm? :)

PS: Remember that I'm not sure yet if I can make it happen to produce these parts in a small scale, so please don't have any expectations yet... :)

Yes, I'm keeping an eye on this also.

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Yes, I'm keeping an eye on this also.

Nice to hear that there´s interest for them :lol: I think I should also look at starting an ebay store for them to increase production numbers and spread a little Dyna enthusiasm :lol:

By the way... This is what happened yesterday:

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My first 'broken' Nimrod part B) And I hope it's the last :lol: I drove in wet conditions yesterday (something I wouldn't normally do but I only found out that it had rained harder then I thought when I came to my usual bashing spot) and it went well until I steered into a corner just a little too late. It spun, which wasn't that bad, but when it came out of the spin it headed for a concrete kerb at a moderate speed - Too late to avoid it too. The part held better than I expected though: That's because the part was actually already cracked before the crash (I got it in a purchase and it was already damaged) B) I decided to drive with it temporarily until I got a Dyna original from my spares box. It's pretty funny by the way that despite the earlier crack and now even the breakage, the rigidity of the part is not affected that much, and it's actually still perfect for driving. And that is what I did after a quick check if everything else was still in one piece :) I did replace it though, just so if this happens again, there will be a busted bumper, not a busted pair of suspension arms and a broken suspension block.

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Ouch!! :lol:

I feel sorry for your Dyna! That's an hard hit!

Bye

WWD

:)

It was the first frontal hit I ever made with it... Thankfully I just replaced my front bumper a few runs back: the other Nimrod one I have isn't cracked and I took it off my runner for my Dyna Lightning before it got more damage - and like I mentioned the part was actually already cracked. Still - it was a painful sight :lol:

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Hi.

My mate just bought a good nic D/S and i noticed that the troublsome rear blocks had 2 extra little counter sunk srews in each block to stop them getting loose.

I get the impression that the blocks are ok it's when they get loose the slop breakes them.

Im going to add 2 more screws in each block as well as a strong sealent and thread lock.

Its my best Tamiya 2wd and don't want it broken on the shelf.

PLEASE make these blocks up.

Get a e bay shop and you will sell a heap....

Cheers.

Mark.

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Hi.

My mate just bought a good nic D/S and i noticed that the troublsome rear blocks had 2 extra little counter sunk srews in each block to stop them getting loose.

I get the impression that the blocks are ok it's when they get loose the slop breakes them.

Im going to add 2 more screws in each block as well as a strong sealent and thread lock.

Its my best Tamiya 2wd and don't want it broken on the shelf.

PLEASE make these blocks up.

Get a e bay shop and you will sell a heap....

Cheers.

Mark.

Hi Mark,

I agree that the weak link is probably the way it's fitted, not the block itself ;) I had a thought about that a few days back too, and that's why I'm not going to try everything I can to make the block indestructible, as 1. It can't be indestructible and 2. It's only going to transfer the weakest link in the construction to another part, resulting in parts breakage of other parts that I can't make a mould for, like the suspension arms (too large for the machine they have at my school). I am currently looking though if I can do something else with the part: a moulded rear brace with the small rear bumper mount moulded into it. This will help massively to improve the impact strength from the rear side of the suspension arm.

As for fitting your current blocks, please do NOT use threadlock unless you are using hex shaped nuts! When using threadlock and pressnuts, the pressnut will lose grip on the block sooner than it will on the thread, ending up with the nightmare scenario of a loose block that you can't tighten, and even worse, can't take off (without drilling the screw out)!

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Some updates to the project I've been working on:

I talked to the engineer in the workshop about my part again. I showed him my 3D part, the original Dyna Storm part attached to a suspension arm and I even had my car with me. We had a look at alternatives for injection moulding, as making the mould is time consuming, difficult and expensive. Not to mention that the injection moulding machine at our school can only be adjusted in temperature.

However, despite the relative simplicity of the part, it seems like injection moulding it (and doing that myself) would still be the best option:

- Plastic will be more suitable as it flexes so the stress is more evenly distributed over all parts.

- Plastic will be more suitable as my part has to be the weak link as it will be in production, and a plastic block will mean a weaker one (unless you make it of stupidly thin aluminum).

- The machine for machining plastics is only 2 axis, and this poses problems for fitting it when the hole for the suspension bushes needs to be drilled.

- Convincing Tamiya to re-release just the blocks is unlikely to happen (and the problem with the press nuts remains).

- The original mould from is likely not for sale (and if for sale, not affordable and still has the flaw of the press nuts).

Disadvantages or challenges of choosing injection moulding it myself:

- Developing/preparing the mould will be time consuming.

- The mould has to be right first time around (a simple machining part would be less crucial).

- Making a mould will make it important for me to sell these in big masses (were not talking like a hundred sets here).

- Testing if the machine at school works (if not, finding a company who will do it for me at low costs).

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Another update on the part. I was looking at ways to make the material around the nut a more consistent thickness (possibly using hex shaped ends instead of round ends) to ease production of the moulds, but this proved to be impossible due to the front reinforcement plate being so close to the block. Furthermore, my quest is not to make a part that will never break, as it's not possible and other suspension parts will break, but one that will not come loose like the original one and therefor will reduce breakage, and to make these parts cheaply available again, so it's not actually a big worry to break them.

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Despite I couldn't go for the hex shaped ends (which I don't know of if they'd look good anyway), I decided to make the part completely over again. The objective was to make the dimensions more like the original on the new design, as there were some differences on the old design that for example the part increased the ride height slightly. Also, I thought the previous design looked way too bulky, which doesn't compliment the looks of the Dyna Storm. Therefor, the top is now round like the original, the small bottom ribs are now a solid piece over the length of the part to ease production, reduce stresses on the plastic and make the underside of the part easier to clean. It prevents the part from looking too much like the original too (which can cause problems with collectors and Tamiya).

I want to make an aluminum machined version of this before possibly doing a mould. I am also looking for broken suspension blocks from the Dyna Storm, to see where it's weak points actually are and to see how they break. So if you have a broken rear block, or pictures of one, I'd be very interested in them to improve this part! :)

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After staring at the part for some time now, I'm noticing something may be worth updating:

I can tell that the hole for the control arm pin is at an angle. I'm guessing it is due to slight degree of anti-squat in the rear control arms (pin angles up towards the front of the car). Due to this, the plastic that rides along the cut-edge of the chassis pan is tapering down towards the front of the car. If you think about it this edge is the main compressive support that the plastic part relies on as the control arm is forced forwards or backwards by an impact (the screw and nut is the tension support). IMO, it would be ideal to have that edge at least the full thickness (or more) of the chassis pan, along it's full length. This could easily be changed by adding an extra support rib along the bottom of the pin section that is parallel to the chassis. This pic illustrates the area I'm talking about:

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It would also make more sense strength wise to make the top face with the hex holes run parallel to the chassis for equal thickness front to rear. As it is now, the block gets thinner towards the rear. I understand this will change the overall look of the part, but I think it could still look nice.

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does anyone have a bottom chassis plate? even second hand? mine is fubar'd.

ps i'm gonna talk to a local cnc mob about making some rear d's in alloy, i dont think plastic will be good enough for mine..

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Ok, I'll weigh in here.

Paul's (ORC) enthusiasm and dedication to continuing with the project is great, and commendable. :D:)

All the suggestions are good and sound. For anyone planning on doing it from scratch in CAD like Paul (and I take my hat off too him, I can't even start a CAD program) there is a significant main hurdle - getting the exact degree measurements of the anti squat and the toe in. These are critical and hence why I went to Nimrod in the beginning. It was all laser measured for accuracy. Making a part in a vacuum or a cnc machine is pointless unless these are totally correct. Paul looks like he has covered this as he has all my parts (nimrod and orig) to measure from and access to uni tools.

The ultimate answer is already understood and designed. It lacks only an affordable cnc contact. I mentioned this in the past. The left and right parts need to be combined into modern touring car style hinge pin holders, the rear one incorporating the bumper mount. Paul knows this as per his comment above. I had already designed this with Nimrod, but since we had no cost effective metal cnc contact at the time and the boys were and continue to be plastic specialists and focused, it never made it to production. If someone wants to finish this off finally then they will need to get Nimrod to dust of the CAD files and have them ready for CNC work (if they are not already), these then need to be given to a manufacturer and payment made for a batch. Finding someone with a reasonable price and getting enough people to actually pay upfront is a challenge. Fact is there is not even 20 people willing to pay up in full in advance to get this done, we might realistically get 8 people that I can think of based on experience to date. We are a great group of passionate fans, but a small group.

If I had known about RW racing in the UK 2+ years ago this might have gone further. I think Neil could do this, given what I know about him now. Certainly I would think he is one to approach.

Well done Paul, I hope this continues on! :)

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NOTE - the design we settled on back then was threaded in metal of the mounts themselves. This leaves the option of adding a spring washer and nyloc nut on top, or simply screwed into the blocks.

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The toe and anti-squat settings are easily subject to interpretation/change. You can build it with any setting you want provided you try it out on the track. But since no two are going to have the same setup on a rare 20 year old car (like they do on modern race cars), it doesn't really matter anyways. Change the tires, and you change the whole car.

Back to the part. Perhaps having a metal or even plastic U shaped part that combines both blocks, as well as the rear bumper attachment is the best idea. That can then retain the standard metal front cross brace one the pins, while finally connecting and strengthening the rear section. Of course alloy would be stronger, but it would also be expensive. An expensive and readily available glass reinforced resin piece would be ideal IMO.

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