Singapore_959

New Dyna Storm Parts

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does anyone have a bottom chassis plate? even second hand? mine is fubar'd.

ps i'm gonna talk to a local cnc mob about making some rear d's in alloy, i dont think plastic will be good enough for mine..

I have a second hand one for sale, check my traderoom entry for details.

As for the blocks, I wouldn't make them in aluminum because of the age of the parts. You need to remember that the availability of ALL Dyna parts are low. Therefor, it is best to keep the weak link in the same place (it wasn't developed like that for nothing), but to make the part easily available for a good price. And in case of these blocks, the most important improvement must be not to strengthen the part as a whole, but only to the impacts from the rear end (as it doesn't have a brace on the rear). Aluminum and endless beefing up is only going to make the parts break that are not in production (arms, uprights, perhaps even chassis plates) - which is at least as bad as not having the reproduction parts available.

So if I can use the desired plastic(s) at school, I am going to make it from plastic (ABS in this case, like the original is I think). If I have to do the moulding at a company (and only the mould making at school), it will delay production and force me to research the demand for these parts first - because I can't afford to make a loss on these parts. If it turns out that demand is too low or moulding too expensive at a company, I will be forced into using aluminum - or to look at machining the plastics at school.

The last method - machining the plastic - would probably become possible if I would not make the part tapered for the anti-squat like 94eg! mentioned. It's not possible with the current design, because the part can't be put in the machine anymore once the tapered piece is machine (and apparently, the engineer at the workshop of my school is then also telling me that the tapered shape can't be machined as the very last thing in the production process).

@94eg!: I think I'm going to put the idea in a new design to see how it will look - and to talk about it with the engineer if it would enable machining plastics - as it will remove any concerns with the quality of the plastics during moulding (Quality and strength of plastics can be highly influenced by moulding temperatures, too sharp corners/fillets - with just a big moulded block to machine parts out of, the plastic will always be of a consistent and good quality). Thanks eg :)

As for strengthening with connections/braces, the front brace is fine from what I know, and doesn't need attention. On the rear, the only way to incorporate a brace without removing materials or other parts, is to make one part from both blocks, and blend in the rear bumper retainer/block with it - for a U-shaped part (which I think is what you meant?)

@Singapore: Thanks for the compliments :) One question by the way... Could you perhaps have the CAD files, or could arrange with Nimrod to send them to me? It would enable me to perhaps blend in to the project.

PS: I am not turning down aluminum parts as inferior - however, with so little people running a fully hopped up car like the Nimrod Racing one, and so little people running in competition, it's best to look at long term reliability and parts availability, rather than just the performance of that single part.

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As for strengthening with connections/braces, the front brace is fine from what I know, and doesn't need attention. On the rear, the only way to incorporate a brace without removing materials or other parts, is to make one part from both blocks, and blend in the rear bumper retainer/block with it - for a U-shaped part (which I think is what you meant?)

Yes that is exactly what I was talking about. :)

As for the idea of keeping them two separate parts (like the originals), I'm only against it because I've had the originals damage my chassis plate once and make it unusable (so I was out $50 as a result). The car spun around and ran into a barrier backwards. Because the through screws are the only thing holding the part in tension, the screw hole to the rear was elongated a little in the impact. When I tried to reassemble the car with new plastic, I could never get the toe equal left to right because the screw hole was damaged. This is my only concern. It is the main reason I have always recommend a rear brace of sorts...

Either way it will be great to have parts again. Unfortunately I don't race mine and rarely even drive it, so I cannot really comment on the market. I just enjoy dreaming up ways to improve things... :)

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Yes that is exactly what I was talking about. :)

As for the idea of keeping them two separate parts (like the originals), I'm only against it because I've had the originals damage my chassis plate once and make it unusable (so I was out $50 as a result). The car spun around and ran into a barrier backwards. Because the through screws are the only thing holding the part in tension, the screw hole to the rear was elongated a little in the impact. When I tried to reassemble the car with new plastic, I could never get the toe equal left to right because the screw hole was damaged. This is my only concern. It is the main reason I have always recommend a rear brace of sorts...

Either way it will be great to have parts again. Unfortunately I don't race mine and rarely even drive it, so I cannot really comment on the market. I just enjoy dreaming up ways to improve things... :)

I am currently still looking at making one side first, and putting a brace on the rear only as soon as I´m happy with the blocks themselves. The rear brace will only be a good thing, the only disadvantage being that it looks too far from original. This doesn´t so much give problems with quality or anything, but rather a problem with what people think about the part. There´s a risk that in the minds of the potential customers, the differences from the original are not linked with better durability of the car, as it´s such an alien part to them - which would end up with low production numbers again.

I need to consider how I'm going to make the part - for a large amount of customers and a low price - with the risk that it doesn't sell as much as expected (as possibly not enough people run these, and many people owning them but not running them not being aware of the part's availability) - or for a small group of customers - which means a higher price, but more freedom with regards to shape, innovation and changes to the part.

I have to admit I tend to choose for the last one, as the first one involves financial risks (not to mention time as a key factor too, if there are too many sales). However, if the first choice works like it should, I could end up with a nice source of income. I still need to source some ABS pellets and try out if I can actually mould ABS at my school. If that can't be done, I can basicly cancel moulding the parts unless there is a company who will do small numbers cheaply.

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anyone have a dyna storm chassis plate for my runner? s/h ok.. and some rear d parts lol

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anyone have a dyna storm chassis plate for my runner? s/h ok.. and some rear d parts lol

Yes, I'll have a brand new one shortly for you... I'm about to build my DS with carbon chassis plates and am happy to set aside the new FRP ones for you if you like? I possibly won't get around to organising it until after Christmas though... but I doubt I'll be asking ebay prices... :unsure:

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anyone have a dyna storm chassis plate for my runner? s/h ok.. and some rear d parts lol

If you are intrested i can help with D parts, the original ones or the much stronger TR-15T ones, you decide! :unsure:

PM or email me through my profile! :)

Bye

WWD

:)

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Update on my parts project:

The ABS pellets arrived one or two weeks back. Today I tested the ABS in the injection moulding machine of our school (with an existing mould). The result is not what I was hoping for: ABS has a moulding temperature of 176-260C, the machine has a limit of 200C. The ABS is up to temperature inside the heater, but once it goes into the mould (which is not heated and can't be heated), the ABS quickly becomes very thick before it's hardened again after just a few seconds. Heating the mould seems to help a bit, but it's not an option when I want to actually produce these parts. Because it solidifies so quickly, the end result is 1. very rough as you keep on pressing the plastic in while it's already become thick, the result is 1. It doesn't get the textures of the mould (it should have visible lines from machining as the mould wasn't polished - instead it's rough and seems stretched out, a bit like lava) and 2. In places, the plastic even seems porous instead of compacted. I hope to make pictures of this soon.

It's a real setback :) Moulding seems to have failed here at school - Delrin isn't a possibility either at an even higher moulding temperature - Polycarbonate could be moulded at a lower 130C and is tough, but needs a pressure for moulding that you can't with this machine (as you force the plastic into the mould with manual force).

However, I found new hope in something I heard from a friend of mine that the company where he works actually has several injection moulding machines. I don't know if he refers to ones for metal or plastics, but either way it's interesting. It could raise the stakes on my project. Financially I'll need to know more if I can achieve production of the part, and if I can, i will have to take the chance to also make a front block in the same mould.

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Sorry to hear this Paul.

This is why I was so amazed at R-design/nimrod, they have everything inhouse which is so expensive. There machines do the molding in a full vacum chamber.

Couple of suggestions-

look up 'prototype engineering' in NL (google etc) and contact local co's and explain the problem. They may offer to do it as work experience for you or simply quote if they have spare capacity. Pref find one who like modeling! ;):)

Book a Easter Holiday to Hungary and contact the boys and ask for a few days experience in the lab on the machines to make the parts!

Contact CNC specialists and get the parts milled out of alloy. RW racing in UK as I suggested previously seem perfect for this....

Wish I could help further . Things are still **** my end. :(

Chin up!! You can do it!! :P:):blink:

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Sorry to hear this Paul.

This is why I was so amazed at R-design/nimrod, they have everything inhouse which is so expensive. There machines do the molding in a full vacum chamber.

Couple of suggestions-

look up 'prototype engineering' in NL (google etc) and contact local co's and explain the problem. They may offer to do it as work experience for you or simply quote if they have spare capacity. Pref find one who like modeling! ;)B)

Book a Easter Holiday to Hungary and contact the boys and ask for a few days experience in the lab on the machines to make the parts!

Contact CNC specialists and get the parts milled out of alloy. RW racing in UK as I suggested previously seem perfect for this....

Wish I could help further . Things are still **** my end. :(

Chin up!! You can do it!!

Thanks for your reply :) I felt pretty bad when it turned out the part can't be moulded at school. Delrin and Polycarbonate are no candidates for moulding either as I mentioned, and PE and PP (which we already have at school) won't cut it.

Making a mould for carbon parts could be an option if the vacuum forming machine could hold a vacuum over a timespan of hours or vacuum seal the mould in a bag. Noticing though that the parts are very tough, but very brittle as well (and let's not forget more costly), it doesn't fit with my plans for a (very) affordable spare part.

Luckily though, the mould itself can be made at school - which only leaves the place to mould the parts uncertain. Like I mentioned, I have a contact who has indirect access to injection moulding machines (as he doesn't actually work with them - but some of his colleagues do). I will try to get contact with him tonight. If that doesn't work, I'll indeed try to find a company who is enthusiastic about it (for whatever reason), or ask my school if they have some contacts.

Pretty funny you mention the holiday to Hungary by the way! :D I have always been interested in Eastern Europe, I somehow like it there - I've been to Slovakia once and met very nice people there, beautiful landscapes and an interesting culture. A friend of mine goes back to Slovakia every summer since we went there in 2006 for the first time, and he said I should go with him. I promised myself when I left Slovakia in 2006 I would travel there again - and as Hungary is a neighbouring country, I already had some plans to visit their office in the summer time :P These plans are completely unsure, but I guess it's worth doing more and more. Do you any clue if/when the office is closed for a summer holiday, and if their office/company is open to visitors? :( (As contacting them for something like this will be just as much trouble as contact about the parts I guess) :D

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Here is an update on the design aspect of the part. 94eg! mentioned that the rear block is thinner on the rear mount than on the front, and that making is the same thickness over the entire length could really help it's strength.

It was a big challenge for me to get the back part 8mm thick like the front, while keeping the same anti-squat angle as the original. The part essentially exists of two sections, a tube through which the suspension shaft goes, and the box which mounts the part to the car. On the original part, the bottom side of the tube and box are not aligned, but the top half is. With the new design however, both top and bottom half would be out of alignment. It would look completely stupid to make the same ridge/edge on the top like you find on the bottom side of the part. I wanted the part to look agile and streamlined, like the car is.

In the end I found a solution to these problems, and the part looks pretty good and I think this part will be much stronger. The added 2mm thickness at the rear and bigger fillets and less tight corners - which reduces stresses in the part from shrinkage/cooling of the material in the production process - will add to the strength of the part.

EDIT:

http://tigermothracing.com/7.html <<< Check this out! I hope it is as cheap as they say it is at Tigermoth Racing - if their bold claim is true regarding the price, I'll just make a mould at school, ship them to Tigermoth Racing (deliver it personally even if I have to) and let them produce my parts! :)

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Not to hijack the thread and all but here's my new build with the full oem carbon chassis...

Tamiya Ti turnbuckles, Al wheel nuts and servo stays, 511 springs and lower spring retainers - I think it looks great with white springs.

IMG_1026.jpgIMG_1029.jpgIMG_1017.jpg

A nice and relatively simple build, lots of c clips!

A few more pics here.

I forgot how **** the stock Tamiya screws were... I think I'll get some better replacements.

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Not to hijack the thread and all but here's my new build with the full oem carbon chassis...

Tamiya Ti turnbuckles, Al wheel nuts and servo stays, 511 springs and lower spring retainers - I think it looks great with white springs.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/djm...rm/IMG_1026.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/djm...rm/IMG_1029.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/djm...rm/IMG_1017.jpg

A nice and relatively simple build, lots of c clips!

A few more pics here.

I forgot how **** the stock Tamiya screws were... I think I'll get some better replacements.

Very cool to see the chassis plates fitted :) The white springs indeed look very nice, but please note that if you run them, they will rub on the shock bodies and slowly remove their anodizing (and their own white coating too), not mentioning that the springs will be compressing less consistently.

PS: I'd wouldn't even run it with those original carbon plates anyway :) But perhaps that's me anyway.

By the way, how do the modern turnbuckles fit? :) I want to put titanium turnbuckles on my Dyna Lightning (preferably Tamiya ones), but I don't know if the length is right... So do they fit well? And I see you used original adjusters, not the TRF 5mm ones?

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Very cool to see the chassis plates fitted :( The white springs indeed look very nice, but please note that if you run them, they will rub on the shock bodies and slowly remove their anodizing (and their own white coating too), not mentioning that the springs will be compressing less consistently.

No, I'll never run it and I made the same observation about the springs, they're not suitable for running for a number of reasons.

PS: I'd wouldn't even run it with those original carbon plates anyway :) But perhaps that's me anyway.

Neither... :)

By the way, how do the modern turnbuckles fit? :) I want to put titanium turnbuckles on my Dyna Lightning (preferably Tamiya ones), but I don't know if the length is right... So do they fit well? And I see you used original adjusters, not the TRF 5mm ones?

Yes, used the standard adjusters, they keep the original look, I'd swap them out if I were running it.

  • 42119 is a drop in replacement (3x38mm)
  • 42120 is a drop in replacement (3x42mm)
  • 42121 are 3x45mm so 5mm shorter than the steering turnbuckles in the DS kit, 45mm are the longest Tamiya currently make in that style (50mm Al 'hard' ones are available for the DF-03 but they look different #53944). This will be a problem for a runner as the 2.5mm you lose at each end is about 30% of the binding length. You can get longer ones from other manufacturers but I would simply get longer (and perhaps stronger or aluminium) adjusters to compensate for a runner.

A drivers head from a Grasshopper fits nicely on the battery plate so I think he'll go in there and will be getting a small stand for it but I'm still contemplating what to do with the shell.

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No, I'll never run it and I made the same observation about the springs, they're not suitable for running for a number of reasons.

Neither... :huh:

Yes, used the standard adjusters, they keep the original look, I'd swap them out if I were running it.

  • 42119 is a drop in replacement (3x38mm)
  • 42120 is a drop in replacement (3x42mm)
  • 42121 are 3x45mm so 5mm shorter than the steering turnbuckles in the DS kit, 45mm are the longest Tamiya currently make in that style (50mm Al 'hard' ones are available for the DF-03 but they look different #53944). This will be a problem for a runner as the 2.5mm you lose at each end is about 30% of the binding length. You can get longer ones from other manufacturers but I would simply get longer (and perhaps stronger or aluminium) adjusters to compensate for a runner.

A drivers head from a Grasshopper fits nicely on the battery plate so I think he'll go in there and will be getting a small stand for it but I'm still contemplating what to do with the shell.

Sounds nice :) I want to use the TRF style adjusters on my Dyna Lightning and 5mm ball connectors, as this car is already so far tuned up and it would not do it justice to not add those parts to the car :)

As for your Dyna, I would personally just keep the shell clear to show off all it's carbon glory :P But with a driver head perhaps that's not the best idea - and let's face it, a driver head in there would look really good! B) You can't go wrong with box art, although with these springs, something with white would look good (and would match with the wheels too) :) I think the following Dyna has a very nice paint scheme as well:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...51&id=30049

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...74&id=30806

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Render2-1-1.png

Render2-4-1.png

Render2-5.png

Render2-6.png

...I'll just make a mould at school, ship them to Tigermoth Racing (deliver it personally even if I have to) and let them produce my parts! :o

chop chop! :P Pargu2000 is trying to beat you, but his design left the orig press nut holes in :lol: .

see here:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...mp;#entry399468

You can do it Paul!

Great to see DS fans having fun! :huh:

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http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h212/Var...Render2-1-1.png

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h212/Var...Render2-4-1.png

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h212/Var...e/Render2-5.png

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h212/Var...e/Render2-6.png

...I'll just make a mould at school, ship them to Tigermoth Racing (deliver it personally even if I have to) and let them produce my parts! :o

chop chop! :P Pargu2000 is trying to beat you, but his design left the orig press nut holes in :lol: .

see here:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...mp;#entry399468

You can do it Paul!

Great to see DS fans having fun! :huh:

Yeah I saw that yeah... First second I saw them on ebay I was pretty disappointed - though this resembles what happens in larger scale too in business :o

I can't make my project go faster though... The only thing I can do is make sure my parts are better, and different - different is what they are already. I forsee problems with pargu's parts though... They are solid aluminum blocks, so other parts may break - If the fitting of his part doesn't become the flaw before other parts do. I see no way in which the press nuts can be pressed well into the aluminum - and regular nuts are a no-go on these...

I think I'm going to post less progress and work on the part more silently from now on.

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Yeah I saw that yeah... First second I saw them on ebay I was pretty disappointed - though this resembles what happens in larger scale too in business :lol:

I can't make my project go faster though... The only thing I can do is make sure my parts are better, and different - different is what they are already. I forsee problems with pargu's parts though... They are solid aluminum blocks, so other parts may break - If the fitting of his part doesn't become the flaw before other parts do. I see no way in which the press nuts can be pressed well into the aluminum - and regular nuts are a no-go on these...

I think I'm going to post less progress and work on the part more silently from now on.

nooooo! Community spirit! Don't shy out. It's part of the fun sharing it on the forum (for me at least).

Did you contact RW?

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nooooo! Community spirit! Don't shy out. It's part of the fun sharing it on the forum (for me at least).

Did you contact RW?

RW Racing only seem to do machining, not moulding, so it's currently not necessary to contact them.

Currently I can't focus on this project either, as school business is interfering. I'd like to share as much as I did before, but all there's left to do are things I need help for: Stress testing (one of the teachers at school), making a final material choice (my coach/teacher who I think will have knowledge about the materials), finding a place for the moulding itself (school, the company a friend of mine works at, Tigermoth Racing in the US, or possibly contacts of them) and finding a supplier for the material(s), depending on where I will be moulding the parts.

Besides that, it is becomig more real for me that for making this project work, I will have to take some financial risks - I'm not willing to take these risks if my design work is so much out in the open that anyone with access to a few thousand euros (and probably even less) can actually copy my project to the last millimeter (making the risk higher as the demand is now spreaded over several suppliers). I hope the next time I post progress is when it's more clear what direction my project is going, financially, and for the part itself too :lol: No need to worry, I just got to get it more organized and the pace pick up quickly from the next update.

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I thought about the community spirit some more Singapore - you're right that I shouldn't shy out :angry: I will not be uploading as many images, but I will keep updating about the progress of the project.

The update is a bit sooner than I mentioned - I think I was still a bit disappointed of the fact I'm not the only one who will/is producing the part.

Anyway, for the progress itself: Today I've learnt to use the Simulation function (at least the most basic buttons and the ones that are relevant for me right now) of Solidworks. In short this means I can now put all kinds of forces on a part and study 3 things: stresses, deformation and strain. It has already helped me in the design process, as I now already know where I can improve the part - and that's just by looking at several versions for say 5-10 minutes each.

I've also been looking at materials that may be suitable for the part - They had a book at school about the different types of plastic. The results for me supported the email from Tigermoth Racing that HDPE/High Density Polyelthylene is a good option for these parts (and I heard from a teacher that the PE pellets that we have at school are HDPE). The only disadvantage is that it leaves no choice for colours: I will have to make it black with carbon black to reduce or avoid problems with the part when exposed to UV-light.

Other materials that I noted as possibly suitable are ABS, PA/Nylon, Delrin/POM/Acetal and PC/Polycarbonate - So not a lot of progress on that yet, as it is very similar to the list I had in my head before (although I hadn't thought of Nylon yet).

I've also emailed Schumacher Racing if they could point me into a direction in terms of materials - as a smaller firm than Tamiya I probably have the biggest chance there to get some information - but I guess that they are not willing to tell me, as it may reveal their preferences of materials for their cars (which is very understandeable).

I do know that RPM uses their own mix of Nylon for their RC parts, and so does T-Bone Racing (a manufacturer involved in making aftermarket bumpers for (off-road) cars - from my experience I know these bumpers are really tough and there's a lifetime warranty for a replacement bumper if they break). Tigermoth Racing uses HDPE for the plastic parts of their touring car (hence why they adviced me to use HDPE).

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In the meantime I'm also working on finishing the Dyna Lightning from Nimrod Racing <_< I need a few more things:

- Updated slipper shaft for DB-01/TRF501X slipper clutch

- Carbon rear shock tower

- Some additional titanium screws

- Updated Diff internals (if that fits) > See the topic here (I need outdrive measurements now - I already have the diff screw from a TRF car, a spring and a thrust bearing which fit inside - but I'd probably still need to modify original outdrives slightly which I just don't dare to do).

I've ordered many parts for it over the last couple of weeks. These include:

- Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles.

- TRF buggy adjusters.

- Tamiya Ball connector dust covers.

- Tamiya Fluorine coated 5mm aluminum ball connectors.

- DB01 Rear WO Universal Shafts.

I earlier also ordered a DB01 slipper clutch, Square TA05 rear uprights, TR-15T gear halves (I think the ones on it currently aren't reinforced), TR-15T front plate bit (that fits between the screws that screw it onto the block and the front plate itself, the TR-15T gearbox/shock tower connection piece, TR-15T steering arms and much more.

This means that, apart from it's gears and a few aluminum post and parts nothing will be original anymore. The car will not have any plastic parts left that are not reinforced (apart from perhaps the small block that holds the motor guard to the chassis plate by the way). It is something Singapore pretty much delivered to me like that already, but I think it would only do the car justice to add those tiny extras to it.

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In the meantime I'm also working on finishing the Dyna Lightning from Nimrod Racing <_< I need a few more things:

- Updated slipper shaft for DB-01/TRF501X slipper clutch

- Carbon rear shock tower

- Some additional titanium screws

- Updated Diff internals (if that fits) > See the topic here (I need outdrive measurements now - I already have the diff screw from a TRF car, a spring and a thrust bearing which fit inside - but I'd probably still need to modify original outdrives slightly which I just don't dare to do).

I've ordered many parts for it over the last couple of weeks. These include:

- Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles.

- TRF buggy adjusters.

- Tamiya Ball connector dust covers.

- Tamiya Fluorine coated 5mm aluminum ball connectors.

- DB01 Rear WO Universal Shafts.

I earlier also ordered a DB01 slipper clutch, Square TA05 rear uprights, TR-15T gear halves (I think the ones on it currently aren't reinforced), TR-15T front plate bit (that fits between the screws that screw it onto the block and the front plate itself, the TR-15T gearbox/shock tower connection piece, TR-15T steering arms and much more.

This means that, apart from it's gears and a few aluminum post and parts nothing will be original anymore. The car will not have any plastic parts left that are not reinforced (apart from perhaps the small block that holds the motor guard to the chassis plate by the way). It is something Singapore pretty much delivered to me like that already, but I think it would only do the car justice to add those tiny extras to it.

Didn't see your other post... I can get you 511 measurements tonight. I may have some spares for you to play with since you're "local" as well. Let's see if they fit first.

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Didn't see your other post... I can get you 511 measurements tonight. I may have some spares for you to play with since you're "local" as well. Let's see if they fit first.

Awesome, thanks <_< Note that I can change a few small things on a lathe, like it's diameter (if it's too big), but adding material of course is a problem.

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I thought I'd share with you a few pictures I made a few weeks back... They show the first few steps of the final (re)build of the Dyna Lightning.

DSC03684.jpg

DSC03685.jpg

DSC03686.jpg

DSC03690.jpg

DSC03692.jpg

DSC03694.jpg

DSC03697.jpg

The steering arms, steering knuckles and gearbox halves are from the TR-15T - the knuckles to fit wide wheels, the steering arms because Nimrod didn't make these in carbon resin, and the gearbox halves because I don't have a Nimrod set and I do want the most rigid rear end possible.

The uprights are from Square (fronts are for the DT02, the rears for the TA05), The 5mm ball connectors are fluorine coated aluminum ones, the adjusters are the reinforced adjusters used on the TRF buggies, the titanium turnbuckles are from Lunsford (and one small one at the steering arms from Tamiya). The diff balls are Silicon Nitride balls from Boca, I used modern coil spring and thrust bearing internals instead of the disk springs. I have yet to test if it works, but in theory it should work without a problem. The other internals are re-used from the car I got from Singapore apart from the outdrives.The screw that holds the two halves together is in titanium (as I will try to achieve with all screws on the car).

All in all it feels really high-spec, I can't wait to continue building it. I've got a new front and rear shock tower on order, made in 2.6mm CSC (4 layer carbon, 2 layer glass - the glass is for added tolerance for flexing (before breaking), and helps get the thickness to 2.6mm like the original with 6 layers instead of 2.4mm with 6 carbon only layers).

Currently, I don't have the money though to get a full titanium screw set and full ball bearing set - those, together with wheels and tires are all I need to build it. Then there's the mainshaft I want to make, but that's something I can add after having built it.

Oh by the way, just a preview of the carbon shock tower:

DSC03698.jpg

This is one of the earlier versions (though revisions were small). As you can see, there's one more hole on the inside at the top, while the outer top hole has been removed. The mounts for the wing are 8mm lower, which makes the shock tower low enough in the middle to fit behind the body, adding to a lower, perhaps more aerodynamic profile of the car. The front one is not pictured, but I do have a seperate image of that:

DynaFrontShockTowerGIF.gif

It's the fourth frame (if you count the long, original one as the first frame), the one with the dips below the outer mounting holes. I tried to match it with the style of the body, but also the Nimrod Racing parts and my new rear shock tower. The front one of course is made for the shorter TRF buggy front dampers. I also have to add that both front and rear towers have been made not to be used with press nuts, but with flanged, serrated or nyloc nuts (with a ring), as putting the press nuts in yourself can be tideous and they may show similar problems with loosening as the original D blocks.

The plates are being made by Fibre-Lyte, and the plan is to make these shock towers available for retail (This will happen as soon as I've test fitted the ones I ordered, to confirm the geometry works as intended). I would've paid approximately 13.50GBP for each shock tower in 2.4mm carbon (the CSC's were 12.00GBP), so when they become available, they are likely to be the same price as the 'original' shaped shock towers from Fibre-Lyte. So is there anyone interested in these? ;) ;)

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Paul, it warms my heart to see the parts being used. B)

Thanks for posting up and keeping the flame bright.

:wub:

It's going to beautiful. Lovely work esp using the dust shields on the parts. Thumbs UP!

Not sure about the spring idea, but very interested to see a new idea (like it!) and to know how it goes. Wondering if there will be sufficient friction on the spring ends.

Gareth at Boca will want to drop dead in shock seeing the bearings being put on a car with a big ABEC sticker on the wing!! :o:P The boca bearings cost more than the car! :oB)B)

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