Singapore_959

New Dyna Storm Parts

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Paul, it warms my heart to see the parts being used. B)

Thanks for posting up and keeping the flame bright.

:wub:

It's going to beautiful. Lovely work esp using the dust shields on the parts. Thumbs UP!

Not sure about the spring idea, but very interested to see a new idea (like it!) and to know how it goes. Wondering if there will be sufficient friction on the spring ends.

Gareth at Boca will want to drop dead in shock seeing the bearings being put on a car with a big ABEC sticker on the wing!! :o:lol: The boca bearings cost more than the car! :o;):D

Luckily the ABEC wing is from my not-so-tuned runner* (the last picture) - The Boca bearing balls will be in my Nimrod tuned car, which will not have the ABEC sticker - especially not now I know this :lol: I can't wait to find out how the diff is to drive with modern internals and the ceramic diff balls - The plan is to put it in my usual runner to test it's function, as I really can't wait another few months before I might finish the ultimate Dyna :P It will especially take long if I want high quality bearings as well.

I really can't wait for the CSC shock towers to arrive: It will be the first time a CAD-file from me is converted to an actual part! :D It would give me great motivation and more confidence if they turn out well.

*Not-so-tuned runner: This is the Dyna I usually run, but although not very hopped up like the Nimrod car I have, it's not really standard. It has tungsten carbide diff balls, TR-15T front uprights, TA04 reinforced rear uprights and DB01 WO Universal shafts shortened by 3mm and modern wheels on front and rear. I really wanted to convert the rear for use of modern buggy wheels, and it seems I have succeeded (I tested it today and it worked flawlessly) - pictures of this will come soon...

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Hey Mate,

hope to see it finished soon! :lol:

It's a work of art.

Bye

WWD

:angry:

Thanks :( I can't wait to get the shock towers from Fibre-Lyte! It means a slightly different path for this car than before, and for me a start on parts that I designed. And strangely enough, it seems that a good looking pair of shock towers can do as much to the overall looks of a buggy as wheels and bodyshells can - so I really hope they look as good as I have in mind they will! :P

In the meantime, I have another something else to show:

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I added the first three pictures for fun - the thing want to share with you is well visible in the last 6 pictures. I already mentioned it in my last reply, but here are the actual pictures: Modern Universal Shafts on the Dyna Storm! :)

The stuff I used for the conversion are:

- DB01 wheels.

- Team Associated RC10B4 wheel cone/tapered wheel ring (Any brand will do if

- 5mm inner diameter rings and/or shims.

- TA04 reinforced rear upright.

- DB01 WO Rear Universal Shafts.

- 3.3mm inner diameter stainless steel tube (I found it on ebay).

- JB-Weld.

- Misc. bits (sandpaper, pin for retaining wheel etc).

Step 1: Cut the Universal Shafts in half. Cut off approximately 3mm more on one or both sides. Vile the edges smooth and sand the black coating off with a fine sandpaper, and clean them with white-spirit afterwards.

Step 2: Cut a piece of the 3.3mm ID tube to the desired size (preferably as long as possible, but not so long that it's in the way of the outdrives at big suspension angles). Vile the edges to a smooth surface and sand the inside if you can reach it. Clean it with white-spirit like with the Universal Shafts.

Step 3: Mix some J-B Weld and apply a layer to both pieces of Universal Shaft when the white-spirit has had the time to fully evaporate off the parts. Slide the shafts in (you'll notice that everything lines up perfectly and doesn't need to be balanced at all), make sure the new length between dogbone and hole for the hinge pin is approximately 61mm.

Step 4: Once everything has cured, assemble the rear end like you usually do, but now with the new rear uprights and universal shafts. No shims are needed at the bottom mount at the upright to remove slop if you use the stock plastic clips on the shaft.

Step 5: Drill the hole of the wheel cone to 3mm. Fit it with pin and wheel to the car and tighten it. Check the slop and adjust with shims and/or rings until the slop is almost completely gone. In my case I used a 1mm ring and sanded some material off the back of the wheel cone.

Step 6: Run it... Quickly! :D

Shortening the driveshaft is necessary for maximing the suspension articulation, it's normally too deep in the universal shaft. I was sceptical at first to use JB-Weld for the driveshafts, wondering if it would hold up to the torque given by these cars. I now have two cars though that use shortened driveshafts in their drivetrain using this exact method - one Monster Truck (my MAD brushless TLT-1), and now my Dyna. Both work great so far with these driveshafts! I've yet to weigh the difference in weight between the originals and the shorter ones, but I think the added weight was worth the experiment and the availability of modern competition buggy rear wheels.

I did notice a few weeks back that the Team Durango DEX410 rear universals are 61mm in length, so I may give that a try soon, too (It would be better for the Nimrod tuned Dyna if there is as little weight on it, as possible, especially rotational mass :P

I have driven the car today, everything works fine and the hinge pins don't slide out anymore now I've used threadlock on the grub screws that hold them. It's nice and silent, and the problems with binding driveshafts (which I had with the old driveshafts) seems to be solved largely now - thanks to the smaller diameter tires I guess :)

I also drove it a few minutes without the wing on - I had NEVER expected such a HUGE difference in handling!!! :o The understeer was gone (though it had already become much better with the changes I made earlier), it was very responsive to the steering, much more lively and even showed a lot of oversteer. It was at it's worst if you were steering from one to the other side at full speed or stopping throttle on turn-in - enough to spin the car.

This is very conflicting to the result I got earlier with the front wing I made. I may cut a bit off the rear wing to reduce downforce on the rear, but I think I'll have a look again at a front wing - if the influence is so big on the rear, then surely I must be able to do something with increasing grip on the front with a wing - more than I did last time as well.

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what titanium screw set can i use on my DS?? would a TA05 set have enough countersunk ones?

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what titanium screw set can i use on my DS?? would a TA05 set have enough countersunk ones?

The TA05 mainly uses fine threaded screws for assembly, whereas the DS uses a rough, selftapping thread. I suggest you use the rough thread in the plastics of the DS, the TA05's plastic is different and possibly even reinforced, and I think the rougher thread works better in the unreinforced ABS plastic (Tamiya didn't choose them just because ;)).

Tamiya did have selftapping titanium screws back in the day, but these may be hard to find. It seems Duratrax does have titanium screws with a selftapping thread, as well as Yeah Racing. Finding/getting them with the right screw head may pose a challenge, but perhaps that makes things even more exciting when the new hopup bits arrive! :)

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i'm thinking a TA05IFS titanium screw kit.. anyone done something similar?

The TA05IFS screw kit like the TA05 uses the fine thread.

My experience is that Philips screw heads are fine for the plastics of the Dyna Storm and TR-15T, they are not nearly as tight to screw into as the modern fittings like you find on the TA05. For the resin parts of Nimrod Racing I'd use a fine thread (because the resin is very hard and I think it could be damaged by a large, rough thread - if you'd manage to get it in anyway), and hex heads. For the metal parts you also use a fine thread and again there it is handy to have the hex heads.

Anyway, 2 days back I finally managed to get some new plastic pellets, which I will test next week at school in the injection moulding machine. I asked for a sample of 500 grams-1kg, but instead I got 2kg:

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The material is HDPE. I don't know if/how many times it's been recycled, in fact I don't know anything about this particular batch apart from that it should be HDPE - I did get it for free though, which is really nice :o If it can be succesfully moulded at school, I got my place for moulding and my material, which puts me in the next phase: Testing the material for it's strength compared to the LDPE we have at school, finalising the CAD design and converting it to make the mould :)

In the meantime, my shock towers have also arrived, but I'm currently not at home, so I won't be able to pick it up until monday :(

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Hi.

I need some advice please. I have run my new built Dyna only a few times but now want to get it sorted for our biggest vintage meet in Australia in June.

What i have noticed is the front is very soft and dives in the corners bad. Im pretty sure stiffer front springs will be better but what else fits the Hi Caps???

Can i solve it with thicker front damper oil??? Or is only fixed with better springs.

Any Advice much appreciated.

Cheers.

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Hi.

I need some advice please. I have run my new built Dyna only a few times but now want to get it sorted for our biggest vintage meet in Australia in June.

What i have noticed is the front is very soft and dives in the corners bad. Im pretty sure stiffer front springs will be better but what else fits the Hi Caps???

Can i solve it with thicker front damper oil??? Or is only fixed with better springs.

Any Advice much appreciated.

Cheers.

I haven't been working a lot on an offroad setup, but the most logic things are to stiffen up the damper, both it's damping and the spring rate, and/or to move it to the outer shock hole on the suspension arm.

I don't know what track you'll be driving on, but besides damping, tires are pretty important. If you haven't replaced the kit tires and wheels yet, it may be the right time to do that now. The original tires have a pretty hard compound and don't work well on all surfaces. You can take modern wide 2WD front and 4WD rear wheels like from the DT02 and DF03 for modern tires. The tire options are endless as a result, which is nice (even if I for example would need advice to find exactly the right tire). ^_^

What you can also do is wait a few weeks and order two things: TRF Buggy Dampers and a short Carbon shock tower from Fibre-Lyte :) Nimrod Racing already made one in the past. I decided - while I was working on a rear shock tower - I also wanted a new front one. Then came the idea to propose to Fibre-Lyte to put it on sale on their website. I will pick up the parts at the post office on monday and fit them to the car. If the geometry is right I can send the word to Fibre-Lyte to officially put them on their website. The shock towers will be for sale for 12-14GBP I think - which is very close to the price of the 'repros' they have for sale.

Once you have the TRF dampers you can then for example start off with the TRF201 setup and work from there to improve the handling ;)

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Duuuudes,

IMPORTANT NOTICE!

The moderators received a PM stating this thread has turned into a sales thread as prices are being mentioned. The mods moved the thread therefore to the For Sale/Trades forum. They have nicely agreed to reinstate it here in the Vintage Forum after I suggested making a post asking everyone to please not post up prices and make sales directed posts in the thread. It's fine to discuss ideas and show progress, devs, disasters :lol:-_- as we have until now, just please keep in mind that there has been a complaint and I think if there is ever another then this great thread will be lost in the For sale/Trades forum :o:o

So onwards and upwards with more great developments and ideas. LONG LIVE THE MIGHTY DS!!! :) :) :)

PS. I am still waiting to see someone post up a pic of a 201 with a DS shell and/or a 201 with "Dyna Storm MKII" stickers on it! :P

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Hi.

I need some advice please. I have run my new built Dyna only a few times but now want to get it sorted for our biggest vintage meet in Australia in June.

What i have noticed is the front is very soft and dives in the corners bad. Im pretty sure stiffer front springs will be better but what else fits the Hi Caps???

Can i solve it with thicker front damper oil??? Or is only fixed with better springs.

Any Advice much appreciated.

Cheers.

I have not found any tamiya shock spring that did not fit. I used the DF series springs in the past with success. Also 3 racing and some other sets. Some occasionally rub but its not been a problem.

The front is heavy, hence the rebound is slow. One trick was to use the rear springs on the front shocks but that took away some steering. If you use non kit softer tires then its ok with harder springs. I used schumacher mini pins with success. You could also try thinner oil with fewer holes in the piston. Thicker oil ofcourse can be used but the rebound will be slower. Deps on the track - is it terribly bumpy? If its smooth then I'd try thicker oil.

Best advice is ofcourse go out and try methodically one afternoon on a similar surface how you feel with the diff oils and springs. Once you are happy recognising how each feels to drive and what you like, then you could refine further with diff piston sizes- I know changing piston size is a chore outdoors, hence why I suggest trying this last.

HTH

I like a well oversteering car with a fast steering servo, its just more fun in my mind. Hence regardless of track I usu end up with that sort of set up. It's more fun! :o

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Here's a little something :)

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I collected these from the post office this morning, the first custom parts that I designed and ordered: front and rear shock tower plates for my Dyna Lightning! Approximately 2.7mm thick (0.1mm thicker than the original FRP ones), consisting of 4 layers of twill weave carbon and 2 layers of fiberglass. The two layers of glass thicken the part from 2.4mm, might reduce the rigidity by a tiny bit (though I've got no sources to confirm that the added thickness doesn't dissipate the difference in material), makes the part a tiny bit cheaper, and acccording to Fibre-Lyte it increases the toughness of the part - so it should hold a little better when your shock towers take hits during a crash.

The overall accuracy of the parts is pretty good - though I did find the holes for fitting the front shock tower not enough apart - I will re-measure everything to make sure the final version of this will be spot on. The rear one fitted right away without any problems, despite the higher amount of holes that need to line up for fitting.

I want to re-assemble the car as soon as possible now (that means just getting the last titanium screws and some nuts) to make sure the geometry allows for the right ride height with the TRF dampers :D Comments and questions on the parts are welcome B)

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Thanks for the advice.

I have found Losi rear springs fit well but are a tad too long. Will try them first and may cut a set down like i have before.

Will try thicker oil too with stock springs. We have a track for vintage at Boondal but is not a real race track just a fun bashing track but does give some insight on whats going on.

Might to try DF03 spring set too.

Thanks again.

Will be racing my D/S in post 90 class so will be with a some tough competition i say in Mod.

Cheers

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Nice towers!! B)

I'm starting to be sad to have retired my Dyna Storm........ :(

Bye

WWD

:)

Then start running it again :) You still have it right? Though I am sure you will have lots of fun with your TR-15T too, great resto! Do you perhaps have the manual of it by the way? I can't find it online anywhere, which can be annoying... It's handy for reference, even if you only have a Dyna Storm. So if you have it... could you perhaps make a scan of it? :unsure:

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Then start running it again :) You still have it right? Though I am sure you will have lots of fun with your TR-15T too, great resto! Do you perhaps have the manual of it by the way? I can't find it online anywhere, which can be annoying... It's handy for reference, even if you only have a Dyna Storm. So if you have it... could you perhaps make a scan of it? :unsure:

Yes sure, my Dyna it's still with me! B) It took so much effort and money that i think i'll never sell it........ ;)

You got mail mate! :)

Bye

WWD

:(

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Print up some Super Dyna Storm boxes with new Art and your golden :blink:

Evolutions of Tamiya's in the past were a good thing (The Avante Mk.II was no good to the name though - but I'm a bit more conservative than the designers, from their point of view I can understand the success of the design). Or did you mean a Dyna Storm in Super Astute boxart? :lol:

Anyway, I have bad news for my suspension block project. First of all, the HDPE doesn't work either in the injection moulding machine at school. My school also decided yesterday that they don't want me producing the part at school. On top of that my front suspension block from Nimrod is now broken - the rear ones seem to be spared.

I had plans to try jumping the car in a small skate park (I had increased ground clearance and added an undercowl for it) but with like 15-20 skaters active I couldn't go there to drive it. So I decided to drive on the near and empty basketball field. It was low grip tarmac, but good fun. Nice and tailhappy when cornering out... But sometimes biting and suddenly getting grip again. This went well for like 10 minutes, until it lost and again got grip too close to a concrete barrier on one edge of the field. It hit the barrier at an angle of 30-45 degrees from the barrier at about 30-40km/h. The front suspension compressed, the rear hit the barrier soon after. When I checked the damage, I was amazed. The Suspension block's shock mounts had come off. The FRP mount, screws, suspension arms, uprights and damper piston rod were however still undamaged :o

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Anyway, I have bad news for my suspension block project. First of all, the HDPE doesn't work either in the injection moulding machine at school. My school also decided yesterday that they don't want me producing the part at school. On top of that my front suspension block from Nimrod is now broken - the rear ones seem to be spared.

A few words expressed graphically:

:blink:

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A few words expressed graphically:

:lol:

Yeah, it's quite a setback. I shouldn't have left my bed yesterday really... I will repair the front block with J-B Weld epoxy as it is a clean break, no shattering or anything. I will then test it to feel if the car's handling is compromised. I do have to say though that this is the fist time I seriously crashed my DS and broke something (once with the front bumper, yes, but the resin was already shattered and weakened in front of where the front block was mounted), so until yesterday I've been pretty lucky (and careful) I have to say.

As for the blocks I was developing, all hope is now focused on the contact of mine. Otherwise I'll have to look for people who can direct me to companies - this involves financial risks though, which I don't really want. The other option is to switch to aluminum in the end. Of aluminum parts suppliers I know plenty, and I am already in contact with one about Super Astute rear suspension blocks :blink: Perhaps he could also do the Dyna Storm block - though I will remain to prefer a plastic part over a metal one...

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I just got mine running again with PARGU alloy rear D blocks, modded so i can actually do my nylock nuts up!

Quick question, did the dynastorm come with ti screws stock? as my car is covered in them..

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I just got mine running again with PARGU alloy rear D blocks, modded so i can actually do my nylock nuts up!

Quick question, did the dynastorm come with ti screws stock? as my car is covered in them..

The standard screws were just steel I believe (at least on the re-release), so I guess you got a good deal then :D A complete screw set for the Dyna Storm in titanium does cost quite a bit, even more if they are the original Tamiya hopup screws.

I'm sure the Pargu D blocks will be fine as long as nyloc nuts are fitted. Just prepare to break other parts instead, though hopefully not as easily as the suspension blocks :)

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Yeah mine are the original tamiya ones with the posi-drive heads. I've had a few randoms creep in there now though..

I'm pretty sure the alloy blocks will solve my problem, both times i've broken the rear d's they were low force rolling impacts.. I'll get the pics of my broken nimrod parts up asap so you can see where they break.

Anyone got a front bumper? Mine cracked on reassembly around a screw hole. Also a d something on the back that attaches to the rear shock tower, on the rear side, it cracked where the press nuts go in...

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