About To Build My Durga. Questions...

[lucasan 28]

Hi all,

well even though I haven't finished my Hotshot rere kit yet (have to get a new esc and ditch the stock one. any takers?) I'm about to get my Durga kit in less than a week. Before I begin, I was wondering if there were any hop-ups to look for for this kit, in addition, I was also wondering if there were any tricky build concerns I should watch out for. I remember someone posting about a couple before, but can't recall the post. The Hotshot was relatively basic. The hardest part was maybe getting the body just right.

[monster_beetle 2]

Well, I should definately take seom universals and a slipper clutch.

When building the diff, you have to watch out. In the manual there is a sign that they turn around the diff, you read over that quite easy.

[BiggusDitchus 38]

Also make sure to buy the front and rear 3 racing aluminium hinge pin mounts, the stock ones are very flexible and the slightest knocks cause the wishbone to come unclipped from standard mounts resulting in lost spacers etc. (for the cheap cost its an invaluable hopup)

[lucasan 28]

Well, I should definately take seom universals and a slipper clutch.

When building the diff, you have to watch out. In the manual there is a sign that they turn around the diff, you read over that quite easy.

Hey monster, do you mean the front and rear universal shafts? I wonder what's different about these than the stock ones. Maybe they're lighter? I was definitely about to get to the slipper clutch but just because I thought it looked cool. didn't know it was a must have.

Biggus, where can I get the aluminum hinge pin mount set? I looked on 3racing's site, and they don't have it listed. Unless, we're just mixing up terminology.

[monster_beetle 2]

Well, the stock ones in the kit are normal dog-bones. No universals, and the ones from the kit want to fall out once in a while.

[weeman18 0]

I have recently built the Durga and it went pretty smoothly. The first thing you will need are 8 good quality 3mm hex screws to screw the 4 parts onto each corner of the chassis, right at the beginning of the build, (have a look in the manual to see what I mean). I tried with the supplied tamiya screws, but I just rounded them. It really is a pain in the backside trying to get the screws in, as the plastic is so tough and thick. Other than that it was pretty straight forward. The car is a joy to drive and handles really well. If theres anything else you need to know please feel free to ask.

[maxHiLux 0]

Well I agree to the hex screws, or if you want to stay with the stock screws, grease them one by one with something like ball diff grease. I don't see the point of changing the dogbones , I have never lost it up to now. Ditch immediatly the stock motor (why is it in the kit) because you should mount a very hot one.

Max

[lucasan 28]

Well I agree to the hex screws, or if you want to stay with the stock screws, grease them one by one with something like ball diff grease. I don't see the point of changing the dogbones , I have never lost it up to now. Ditch immediatly the stock motor (why is it in the kit) because you should mount a very hot one.

Max

max I got the rz to start off with because I got it for $10 on ebay. Figured I'd try it out and go from there. What is the essential difference between dogbone drive shafts and universal? Is it the just the end joint/balls?

[weeman18 0]

I couldn't agree more with max's comment about the motor. I have been running my Durga with a 19 turn and a 15t limit esc, and it runs at a very decent pace. I have a orion 17x2 waiting to go into the buggy but im going to wait until I run my 19t into the ground first. Ideally I'd love to be running the car with something like a 10 or 12turn motor but funds at the moment are a bit tight . I'd love to see what this thing could do with a brushless set up though. As max said I dont know why they put the standard silver can in with the kit, very strange and a bit half ******* in my opinion. Come on Tamiya you can do better than that.

[BiggusDitchus 38]

Yes I thinks its a mistake on my behalf.. the term 3 racing and Tamiya use is suspension mounts, heres the links to Stella Models

Front Suspension Mounts (Aluminium)

Rear Suspension Mounts (Aluminium)

Its a great buggy cant recommend it highly enough, you certainly need the slipper clutch too, as you will want to fit a faster motor to it. I recommend a brushless like the Novak Super Sport which I have in mine.

[lucasan 28]

Yes I thinks its a mistake on my behalf.. the term 3 racing and Tamiya use is suspension mounts, heres the links to Stella Models

Front Suspension Mounts (Aluminium)

Rear Suspension Mounts (Aluminium)

Its a great buggy cant recommend it highly enough, you certainly need the slipper clutch too, as you will want to fit a faster motor to it. I recommend a brushless like the Novak Super Sport which I have in mine.

Yes I will certainly think about a brushless down the line. I'm still getting my feet wet so I'm taking it slow. literally and figuratively. Is the aluminum motor mount something I should look at if I plan to run a hotter motor than the rz in the future?

[BiggusDitchus 38]

Yes I will certainly think about a brushless down the line. I'm still getting my feet wet so I'm taking it slow. literally and figuratively. Is the aluminum motor mount something I should look at if I plan to run a hotter motor than the rz in the future?

The Durga has an aluminium mount as standard, the one your probably looking at is just a little nicer as it is blue.. the standard one is up to job fine. If running a faster motor the trf501x belt tensioner is always a good buy.

[lucasan 28]

Yeah Biggus I was thinking about that part too. I can't find the hex screws that people are talking about. I know that this step will frustrate me so I want to get them. So far I have in my stellamodels cart:

1. TRF-01 Front One-Way Pulley (is there a rear one too?)

2. DB01-04/LB Alum Front Suspension Mount for DB01

3. DB01-06/LB Alum Rear Suspension Mount for DB01

4. 54027 DB01 Slipper Pad

5. 54018 DB01 Slipper Clutch

6. 54016 DB01 Assembly Universal Shaft (Rear)

7. 54015 DB01 Assembly Universal Shaft (Front)

8. 53967 TRF501X Adjustable Belt Tensioner

total with shipping is $124.44

Total cost of kit with hop-ups so far is $324.44

Anything I should skip?

Is stellamodels a good place to order from if you're in the states? My shipping for this stuff so far is $10 which I thought was pretty cheap, coming from Hong Kong and all.

Also, what about the bearings? Are the stock ones up to it? Couldn't find a bearing set for this kit either

And yeah, for an upper level buggy kit, the 540 motor seems inexcusable for Tamiya. Even I know that. The 540 is what I had for my Wild One back in the 80's. I'll have 2 unused 540's when I'm done. What to do with them?

[monster_beetle 2]

Slipper pad is actually included in the slipper clutch package. So you can skip that, if you don't want an extra pair of pads.

[backtomyroots 432]

Is stellamodels a good place to order from if you're in the states? My shipping for this stuff so far is $10 which I thought was pretty cheap, coming from Hong Kong and all.

I'm in Canada and have made several orders from Stellamodels with no problems to report and shipping is reasonably quick.

[BiggusDitchus 38]

Hmmm, a one way on rear too.. zero brakes then not a great plan. To be honest unless your racing the one way isnt essential I dont have one and dont see any need for one. If you are trying to save a bit of cash a universal drive shaft on rear is not essential (although recommended on front) it is a good hopup though.

[94eg! 834]

The car actually handles quite brilliant wiith the standard dual diff setup. Turn-in is very fast, and responsive. So unless your racing and need the tuning option, I would skip the one-way as well.

You don't necessarily need a slipper unless your installing a mod motor (19T or lower). The standard (locked) center will give the car a bit more punch off the line provided you have a good ESC.

The kit shocks will be decent for a while. But once they require frequent rebuilds, replace them with 501X shocks. To build them there are only 4 parts bags you need (3 plastic & 1 damper) from the 501x that cost a total of $57 straight from TamiyaUSA.com. Can't go wrong!

Make sure to cut some air holes in the body for the motor. We melted the solder off the positive terminal/wire on a 15T running the smaller of the two kit pinions & a Novak GTS on the street...

Take your time installing the front wheels. It's a PITA! The instructions aren't very clear here. You first must slide the hex over the axle with the pin-groove side facing towards the chassis. Next put a little anti-wear grease on the pin and insert it through the side of the hex and through the hole in the axle. The hex fit to the wheel is super tight, and requires the wheel nut to press it on. That pin is very capable of damaging the wheel as you tighten the wheel nut, so the anti-wear grease is meant to hold the pin in place while you do so...

[terry.sc 16]

Always useful to check Jimmys reviews first

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewtamiyadurga/

[lucasan 28]

Always useful to check Jimmys reviews first

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewtamiyadurga/

terry that site is great, thanks a lot. Seems like it will be a great resource, but the buggy and build reviews are limited to mostly higher end racing kits. Unless I'm missing something.

Still hunting for for the hex screws. Since the TRF501X and the Durga are so similar, should I just opt to buy the screw sets from the TRF501X? There are 2 sets, A and B, and the guy from oohpul says all of the screws for the TRF are hex style. I know I probably don't need all of the screws from the TRF since it's not cheap.

I'll probably stick with the slipper set since I plan on going with a hotter motor down the line. I might just cut out the one-way and keep both universals. I guess I'll keep reading and see what everyone says. Thanks again everyone for your input.

[terry.sc 16]

For 8 M3x10mm hex screws try these

http://www.fastener-express.com/index.asp?...&ProdID=832

or RCScrewz for a complete kit.

[lucasan 28]

For 8 M3x10mm hex screws try these

http://www.fastener-express.com/index.asp?...&ProdID=832

or RCScrewz for a complete kit.

Yeah terry I checked on that. I was confused as to whether the full set from rcscrewz was all hex or not. I imagine they're not though. I've been thinking about a camber gauge too. Since the camber is adjustable on this kit, it might not be a bad idea.

[terry.sc 16]

RCScrewz use Philips head on their 2mm screws, but all bigger sizes are hex head. And make sure you get a proper hex driver instead of trying to use the allen keys.

[lucasan 28]

RCScrewz use Philips head on their 2mm screws, but all bigger sizes are hex head. And make sure you get a proper hex driver instead of trying to use the allen keys.

hmm, a proper hex drive huh? by that do you mean a power driver with a hex head on it?

Also guys, I'm putting an order in with omnimodels tonight and need to get tire glue and cement. Should I use thin or thick tire glue? And by rubber cement that the kit calls for, is it any old rubber cement?

Searched through Jimmy's review site, but couldn't find anything. Thanks again

[terry.sc 16]

hmm, a proper hex drive huh? by that do you mean a power driver with a hex head on it?

No, I mean a hex driver like these, many companies make them and once you have used one you'll throw away all those little L shaped allen keys forever.

Also guys, I'm putting an order in with omnimodels tonight and need to get tire glue and cement. Should I use thin or thick tire glue? And by rubber cement that the kit calls for, is it any old rubber cement?

Thin or thick tire glue is down to your personal preference, thin tends to run into the bead better, giving a stronger joint, but I always also get it all over the tyre as well so I use a thicker adhesive.

Rubber cement is any old contact adhesive such as Evo-stik.

[lucasan 28]

No, I mean a hex driver like these, many companies make them and once you have used one you'll throw away all those little L shaped allen keys forever.

Thin or thick tire glue is down to your personal preference, thin tends to run into the bead better, giving a stronger joint, but I always also get it all over the tyre as well so I use a thicker adhesive.

Rubber cement is any old contact adhesive such as Evo-stik.

Those look nifty. Too bad I have to wait until the end of the month to get them. I could opt for one of the other sets, but the grips look bad and they have fewer drivers.

looked for Evo-stik on omni's website, but not luck. Maybe my LHs has it