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Skysaxon

Toyota Celica Group B 4wd 58064

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Got today my Toyota which I found in the bay while Im searching for a Technigoldmotor.

The Body is in a rough condition painted from inside and outside :) with a few cracks in front and rear and also a body repair with fiberglas from inside. The rear shocks are from an F-350 and roughly bolted to the bodymount but the rest of the chassis seems Ok. Even the Technigold is in its place.

The wheels are painted with a brush owfully but the paint can be removed with a fingernail so it shout be no problem. The rear wheels are yellow ones from the 959 the front rims are correct white ones.

This car wouldnt became a shelfqueen the contition for this is to bad, but I think it can became a good runner which we be carefully driven from time to time.

More detail pictuers will follow tomorrow when my camera is back home.

PS.

I fpound a bit a resurce for this time period rallye cars.

http://uk.youtube.com/profile_videos?p=r&a...2511&page=1

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Xme1baBqpaE&...361?icid=acvsv1

Enjoy the great cars ans sorry for my bad english.

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Many Thanks for the links to the rally car videos. I like your Celica, lovely model. Higher quality pictures would be welcome LOL. Whatever help you need to restore it, ask away, there's always a kind soul here to help you out :) !

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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Your bodyshell doesn't look too bad - the front end looks to be in quite good condition...

That speed controller looks a bit horrible though...

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1000014rt5.jpg

The speedcontroller is a stepless MSC and will stay.

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The Bodyshell isnt that bad, but its painted and repaired with fibreglas from inside and outside.

So my only way to restore this shell will be paint it from outside.

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This metal servomount is missing on the outher side.

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These shocks are from the F-350 and need to be replaced

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Is this spring between the upper and lower wishbone original - if not does it make sence?

I took out my old Graupner 6014 today and gave the chassis a test run.

So what shell I say - its quiter as my TA-02 and the Technigold is very good to control with this MSC - thats whay it stays.

The next point is clean the Chassis regrease it and fix this hiddeous electric with no switch between batterie and MSC.

When this is done the body and the missing parts are the next step.

So stay tuned.

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That spring is definitely not original. I imagine the previous owner has put it on to try and stop the hubs popping out of the arms. The balls on my hubs are pretty worn and it suffers from the same problem. It looks like a version of the 'rubber bands' fix for the SRB front arms...

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Parts needed:

Servomount right side

Shocks rear

Decals - Repros are wellcome too if the quaility is OK

So if anybody wants to sell or trade these items please contact me.

Next point:

Has somebody an idea to strip the body?

I dont think its possible to paint it from inside again - but I will try so Iver to strip and clean it and decide then how to paint it.

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Parts needed:

Servomount right side

Shocks rear

Decals - Repros are wellcome too if the quaility is OK

So if anybody wants to sell or trade these items please contact me.

Next point:

Has somebody an idea to strip the body?

I dont think its possible to paint it from inside again - but I will try so Iver to strip and clean it and decide then how to paint it.

Glow engine ("Nitro") fuel is best for stripping Lexan / PolyCarbonate paint from Lexan / PolyCarbonate bodyshells. The more Nitro (Methane) content the better. Don't use brake fluid or Easy Off etc, they are for Styrene bodies.

BTW looks like your car's rear has Kyosho Optima shock absorbers on it.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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Thanks for this idea with the nitrofuel. I will give it a try.

I dont now where the rear shocks from, but they have been removed anyway, so if someone knows where they from and is in the need of them just send me a pm. The ballheads are gone - theyve been scewed in very roughly so even a polish wouldnt help and the red coat of the shock has scratches. They are leaking oil so I dont think ist is something good rebuid them, but who knows - I keep them in my spares - never throw a part away was may frist leason I learn when I started restoring motorbikes and so I will do with my rc cars too.

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A question about the nitrofuel - I dont have a nitro car so can I use pure nitro for stripping or mix normal gasoline with nitro to get the same result?

I remember whenn I was rc-flying some of the other guys made their fuel by their own with petrol - nitro and rizinusoil.

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Skysaxon,

When you do strip apart the chassis for cleaning, do a close inspection the rear hubs and the R parts. For the rear hubs, inspect visually for hairline cracks along both arms that attach to the R part with the shoulder screws.

Overtime these arms can crack due to stress of running these beasts. A band aid solution is to use some pvc tubing and slip them over the 2 arms. The tubing is just tight enough to act as a tube clamp. You dont want these failing you when your on a run. :P Your dogbones will popout if this part fails.

Also, check your R parts (Rear arms) for cracks - overtime these are known to fail just like the hubs.

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