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Posted

Hi guys, I have a question regarding electronic speed controllers:-

I have just finished my first two new kits (in about 20 years!), and both have come with an electronic speed controller. These are ace seeing as you no longer require the 4XA battery packs to run the servos and only require the one servo for the steering now!

Firstly I notice it has to go to 'stop' before you can then stick it into reverse - is this to save gearboxes?

Also I wondered if these can be purchased separately as I am going to build and old NIB (once I get it!) and am thinking of just sticking the ESC straight into it instead of the old manual speed controller. I presume this is possible, and if so should I go for the aforementioned or perhaps a different ESC that someone could recommend?

Answers on a postcard please :)

Posted
Hi guys, I have a question regarding electronic speed controllers:-

I have just finished my first two new kits (in about 20 years!), and both have come with an electronic speed controller. These are ace seeing as you no longer require the 4XA battery packs to run the servos and only require the one servo for the steering now!

Firstly I notice it has to go to 'stop' before you can then stick it into reverse - is this to save gearboxes?

Also I wondered if these can be purchased separately as I am going to build and old NIB (once I get it!) and am thinking of just sticking the ESC straight into it instead of the old manual speed controller. I presume this is possible, and if so should I go for the aforementioned or perhaps a different ESC that someone could recommend?

Answers on a postcard please :)

Hiya

the stop function is the "brake" to stop the gears from sudden change.ie:from forward straight to backwords and yes they can be purchased serperatly for around 20 on ebay(brand new) ;)

Posted
Personally, I'd go for an Mtroniks ESC instead - similar price, but waterproof and smaller too...

Agree, waterproof ESC and a little bag over the reciver and you are set to run in any weather (the cheapest servos might not be to keen on water but more expensive ones do survive being submerged)

Posted

if you want to waterproof the TEU-101K, or any other ESC for that matter, you can try using some varnish coat.. similar to the one applied to automotive/motorcycle computer/ignition module. That'll seal the circuit boards against moisture for good. Coating is removable with dabs of acetone or ail polish remover. Waterproof connectors are also sold in automotive part stores, and they help in most cases. And assuming you have good solder joints, you can waterproof the battery as well, but it'll run hotter.

Edit: Servos, if they got brushless motor in it, can be completely waterproofed as well. At least there's no need for direct metal to metal / carbon to metal contact with brushless.

Posted
Personally, I'd go for an Mtroniks ESC instead - similar price, but waterproof and smaller too...

Yes true but one flaw in the standard mtronicks gearbox is the poultry "reverse" gear which is akin to nothing, Advice there is to get the marine esc which tho more expensive has a full reverse :)

Also stella for your TEU-101Bk buy it from bulk packaging for about 12 ;)

Cheers

Ryck

Posted

The teu-101-bk is a good little unit, and as it's tamiya it's of good quality.

The car doesn't need to stop to go into reverse, just hit the throttle stick back twice and you'll be in reverse.

The mtroniks reverse circuitry has lower quality FET's so have less power in reverse. I've got lots of their esc's and have never really found it to be a problem. The only time it becomes a problem is in crawlers as the weaker reverse gets them stuck :)

Posted

Firstly I notice it has to go to 'stop' before you can then stick it into reverse - is this to save gearboxes?
Generally it's to save the ESC as well from being overloaded. Depending on the design the ESC will either wait for the car to stop moving forwards to select reverse, or like the Tamiya one you 'double pump' the throttle to get it to engage. The double pump style has the advantage that you don't have to actually stop before reverse is selected.
Also I wondered if these can be purchased separately as I am going to build and old NIB (once I get it!) and am thinking of just sticking the ESC straight into it instead of the old manual speed controller. I presume this is possible, and if so should I go for the aforementioned or perhaps a different ESC that someone could recommend?
There are literally dozens of ESCs available from a wide range of manufacturers. For non Tamiya I would recommend Mtroniks and LRP, both have very good after sales service if (when?) you blow them up.
Posted
Generally it's to save the ESC as well from being overloaded. Depending on the design the ESC will either wait for the car to stop moving forwards to select reverse, or like the Tamiya one you 'double pump' the throttle to get it to engage. The double pump style has the advantage that you don't have to actually stop before reverse is selected.

There are literally dozens of ESCs available from a wide range of manufacturers. For non Tamiya I would recommend Mtroniks and LRP, both have very good after sales service if (when?) you blow them up.

So is the TEU101BK no good for an old Mauri then? If not, why are some ok for old vintage cars and others not, any ideas? :)

Posted

no, i think the teu-101 is just fine for a marui. they are good solid units and there really isn't anything wrong with them. i think what people are saying is that mtronics and lrp make very good units as well with slightly different advantages, like waterproofing, lower turn limits, or smaller.

i buy teu-101bk units dirt cheap from fleabay all the time and i've NEVER smoked one yet. i can think of only 2 disadvantages and neither bother me: [1] they are not waterproof from the box, but can be made so with very little effort, and [2] the 23 turn motor limit, which is ok by me too. i usually stick to pretty mild motors because i like the run time and am too lazy to rebuild the higher dollar motors.

the esc would be a HUGE improvement over the mechanical speed control included with some kits and you would not regret spending the money on even an inexpensive esc. really. :)

Posted
no, i think the teu-101 is just fine for a marui. they are good solid units and there really isn't anything wrong with them. i think what people are saying is that mtronics and lrp make very good units as well with slightly different advantages, like waterproofing, lower turn limits, or smaller.

i buy teu-101bk units dirt cheap from fleabay all the time and i've NEVER smoked one yet. i can think of only 2 disadvantages and neither bother me: [1] they are not waterproof from the box, but can be made so with very little effort, and [2] the 23 turn motor limit, which is ok by me too. i usually stick to pretty mild motors because i like the run time and am too lazy to rebuild the higher dollar motors.

the esc would be a HUGE improvement over the mechanical speed control included with some kits and you would not regret spending the money on even an inexpensive esc. really. :)

Brilliant. You are spot on for sure, the ESCs are fantastic! Do you know what the turn on a standard 540 motor is? That's what I have in my newly built kits and think i'll stick to them as apparently if you modify old cars (I have a Hornet and a Lunchbox), the faster motors shred the gears etc very quickly?

Posted

Just a word of caution! I like the TEU-101BK, i have alot of them. BUT, remember that it doesent have a BEC circuit. So if you like i have a Futaba R133F reciever without a BEC circuit, you will fry the Reciever. If the TEU had a BEC built in, id use it just about in every car i have, since i dont have any hotter motor than a SuperStock (which can be to much for the TEU-101BK, another word of warning).

But as i said, just make sure you have a BEC circuit in the reciever.

Posted
Brilliant. You are spot on for sure, the ESCs are fantastic! Do you know what the turn on a standard 540 motor is? That's what I have in my newly built kits and think i'll stick to them as apparently if you modify old cars (I have a Hornet and a Lunchbox), the faster motors shred the gears etc very quickly?

standard silver can 540 is a 27turn.

Posted

i recently bought a teu-101bk from the bay for around 15 inc p+p, fitted it to my tt-01 easily, set-up a doddle, and it runs fine with my LRP 19turn motor. i've even come to love the brake mode too!

  • 1 month later...
Posted
i recently bought a teu-101bk from the bay for around 15 inc p+p, fitted it to my tt-01 easily, set-up a doddle, and it runs fine with my LRP 19turn motor. i've even come to love the brake mode too!

Wow works well in a 19 turn motor hey? I presume the lower the turn motor the more powerful/faster it is? If so are the Tamiya Technigold motors some of the best/fastest motors you can get? I remember I had something like a Palma Yokomo motor years ago and it made my old Monster Beetle go SOOO quickly!!

Also can I ask what 'BEC' unit is?

Posted

BEC = Battery Eliminator Circuit. Means you don't need to plug in a seperate power supply from a 4.8v/6.0v battery and it can get it's power from the ESC and the 7.2v pack.

I have run Venom 19T double modified on a TEU-101BK without any undesirable effects in a Baja-King. Hopups to the Baja-King are full bearings, oil shocks and adjustable links. Using Venom 3000mAh packs purely for bashing.

Cheers, Mark

Posted
Wow works well in a 19 turn motor hey? I presume the lower the turn motor the more powerful/faster it is? If so are the Tamiya Technigold motors some of the best/fastest motors you can get? I remember I had something like a Palma Yokomo motor years ago and it made my old Monster Beetle go SOOO quickly!!

Also can I ask what 'BEC' unit is?

I have been running a vintage Kyosho 18x2 mated to a Teu-101bk for a few months in my Super Hornet and never had a problem. In my Frog I have a Orion 19x2/Teu-101bk and its been flawless as well.

Posted

There are lots of cases of people running hotter motors with the 101, but there are also lots of cases of them popping with the Sport Tuned, so it looks like there is a bit of luck involved...

Posted

I think load and ambient temperature has alot to do with it. On grass or without bearings I dare say it would have thermalled quite often. Also alot of partial throttle would do the same. I was mainly running it on the track in my yard which is reasonably flat and you are 3/4 to full throttle the whole lap with a 19T mod.

Mark

Posted

What is the relationship between turn limits and amp rating? peak amp and continuous amp? The 101 seems to have higher amp rating than some of my esc's that are rated for lower turn motors(novak xrs). For most bang for the buck, Tazer esc from dynamite is very good. They can be had for about 30usd. Ive been too cheap to buy a race spec esc, but the tazer hasnt burned out from running orion 19t and smc 4600 cells in race.

Posted
Wow works well in a 19 turn motor hey? I presume the lower the turn motor the more powerful/faster it is? If so are the Tamiya Technigold motors some of the best/fastest motors you can get?
Any decent modern stock class 27 turn race motor will be faster than a Technigold, which was only a 21 turn.
Also can I ask what 'BEC' unit is?

BEC means Battery Eliminator Circuit. In the early 80s you either had a pack of AA batteries to power your radio or you replaced them with a voltage regulator that plugged into the receiver. Eventually the radio manufacturers just included the voltage regulator circuitry into the receivers and labelled them as BEC. As ESCs became widespread and as they all came with BEC system with a 5v output for the receiver and servo the radio manufacturers started removing the BEC circuits from the receivers as they weren't needed.

Unfortunately Tamiya didn't include the BEC system in the TEU-101BK speed controller, so you actually feed 7.2v into the receiver. As modern receivers don't have the BEC built in they react in different ways. Some are known to just not work when overloaded with this extra voltage, some manage just fine.

Posted
What is the relationship between turn limits and amp rating?
There isn't one. A standard 27 turn 540 might manage 2 amps on a motor dyno, a highly tuned stock class 27 turn motor can draw 20-30 amps with the same load. The current draw depends on brushes used, springs used, motor timing, gear ratio (how much load is put on the motor) motor condition...
The 101 seems to have higher amp rating than some of my esc's that are rated for lower turn motors(novak xrs).
It depends entirely on how the ESC manufacturer "measures" the current rating. Say you fit 5 FETs in an ESC, each one rated as being able (under perfect conditions) of carrying 30A. The easy option is to just state the ESC can handle 150A as that is what the data sheet for the FETs say they can handle. Other manufacturers list the current handling capability in real world conditions, in other words they have actually tested the ESC to see what it can handle.

There's a lot more to an ESC than how good the FETs are, the more advanced control circuits will help keep the FETs cool by the way they control the power, meaning it can handle a higher current than a more basic ESC using the same FETs.

I suspect due to the low price (and therefore cost) Tamiya haven't gone for high quality FETs in the TEU-101BK, so there is a wide range of current handling depending on how good the particular FETs are in the ESC. Some are lucky and get a set of FETs that can manage a reasonable spec motor, others have a set of FETs that struggle with a Sport Tuned. By stating a motor limit that all the ESCs can handle means Tamiya have a cheap ESC without checking through the FETs to see which ones are pretty good and which ones aren't. It's the same way batteries sometimes have a lot more capacity than the rating, you put a minimum capacity on the label based on the production tolerances rather than measuring every single cell.

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