4wd Willy's Wheeler Build Thread.

[TAZ-NZ]

This build is inspired by the half dozen or so Wild Willy 2 -> Willy's Wheeler conversions kicking around the place, while the WW2 conversions are true to the feel of orginal Willy's Wheeler, I wanted something with a bit better handling, so after a bit of research I decided to go with a modified TA02 chassis for this project.

Hopefully it will look something like this when finished.

But currently it looks like this.

The last of the major parts turned up the post today, so I can get started but there are a number of small parts bags still on there way. I had to source the parts from over a dozen different sources in JAPAN, USA, UK, SINGAPORE, and HONG KONG, and I'm still working on a couple of items, the shipping costs are killing me, but it's still easier & cheaper than getting the same parts locally.

The basic idea of the project is I'll take the Hummer TA01 chassis and shorten it by lossing the stock chassis tub and replace it with a custom double layer plate chassis. I'll narrow the rear wheel track by replacing the whole rear suppension and axle assembly with TL01 rear suspension parts. Fit Voltec Fighter wheels & tires, sort out the battery, servo, and body mounts and put it all together into something that will hopefully handle as good as it looks. Well that's the plan, wish me luck

[richytanimal]

Good luck I'll watch this one with interest.

[TAZ-NZ]

Well I start the build by disassembling the Hummer chassis, on first inspection it looked to in good condition with only a few scratches on the parts I expected to re-use.

The only negative with the front diff assembly was the lower king pins were missing and had been replaced by other screws, and the steering knuckles are a little worse for rear. I was planning on replacing the steer knuckles & C-hubs with TL01 items and the lower suspension arms with stock TA02 items, but the standard Hummer items work purfectly for my needs so I retaining the entire stock Hummer front diff & suspension assembly, I'm waiting on some parts before I re-assemble the diff fully.

The rear transmission started out promising, but on removing and inspecting the diff, I realised instead of the ball diff I had expected to find it was a bevel gear item and it was glued closed, the spur gear also show noticable signs of wear so I've order replacements for both. The TL01 lower rear suspension arms fit well, but the rear shock tower is too far back for the TL01 upper rear arms, I should be able to get around this with the adjustable upper arms I have on the way, I fitted TL01 2deg toe in rear uprights which which should help handling.

This is a quick mock up assembly with no internals in either the front diff or rear transmission, but the suspension and wheels are fitted as they will be in the final setup. The axles are spaced to match the body's wheel base, and the battery is there just to check there will be enough room for it and the steering linkages. The steering servo will be mounted on the upper deck of the chassis over the battery. The front and rear wheel track has worked out purfectly in my book, so progress is good to date.

Tomorrow I'll pop down the local hobby store and grab some 3mm balsa wood sheet and dope, it will let me easily protype the chassis plates which I'll later make from aluminum or carbon fiber.

[caddy shack]

Good luck.

but dont think you will need it. were's the popcorn damb this will do

CAD

[TAZ-NZ]

Well I got some balsa wood and started on the prototype lower deck, it's rough but it's doesn't have to be purfect it's just for me to get dimensions and to get an idea of what will work best.

I test fitted it to check the wheel base, had to place it in the upturned body as the with only the lower deck and four screws it's not stong enough to hold up all the weight. Hopefully some more parts I need will turn up tomorrow and I'll be able to work out the rest of the lower deck mounting points, and start on the upper deck.

The link between the steering knuckles is just there to make handling of the front assembly easier, it will no be part of the final build.

I also checked out the fit of the rear stabilizer today, looks like I can use the TL01 stabilizer kit un-modified and just mount it to the rear transmission with the TA02 stabilizer bracket, I haven't fitted it as yet as I'd only have to remove it to do the final assembly of the rear transmission.

[rajicon]

Its coming along nicely.

What you could do is laminate either side of the balsa with a couple of layers of 200g/m fibreglass. Although this would only be a temporary measure as the balsa can still soak in water.

Where abouts are you from?

[TAZ-NZ]

Its coming along nicely.

What you could do is laminate either side of the balsa with a couple of layers of 200g/m fibreglass. Although this would only be a temporary measure as the balsa can still soak in water.

Where abouts are you from?

The balsa is just temp meassure for the design stage, I'll take the diamension once I'm happy with the design and I'll make new plates from aluminum or possibly carbon fiber sheet.

I live in Tauranga, New Zealand.

[rajicon]

The balsa is just temp meassure for the design stage, I'll take the diamension once I'm happy with the design and I'll make new plates from aluminum or possibly carbon fiber sheet.

Yeah, I just thought that it would be strong enough to even do a little testing before you started on your final chassis plates.

Most hop up chassis plates are FRP, just fiberglass with black pigment/dye/tint mixed with the resin. If you were going to lay up the carbon fibre, it could be possible to use fibreglass intsead. A really small amount of Dulux Ultra Deep Base pigment/tinter from an auto paint supplier will mix with the resin without effecting its strength. But use many layers of lighter weight as has a finer weave and will be stiffer.

I live in Tauranga, New Zealand.

wasnt sure if it was Tasmania or New Zealand (from Melbourne myself)

On another note, I noticed standard 1/10th hex wheels will fit the rear axle of a Wild Willy, just leaving the bearing exposed. I guess the design of having the wheel weight shared with the hex and bearing has gone now because the quality of plastic used in the rims has become better. Also with a little cutting down, a M03 front upright and axle could fit to the suspension arm of a Wild Willy. This will give the same width for both front and rear of a Wheeler allowing an easy WW to Wheeler conversion.

[TAZ-NZ]

The top force chassis posts I need turned up today along with few other parts, so added all the rest of the mounting points to the bottom plate of the chassis, and mounted everything with parts from the top force J-tree, It's now strong enough to be free standing even without the top chassis plate.

I also started on the steering, I dumped the TA02 items in favour of the top force items, which I linked together with the TL01 steering cross bar, I still need need to sort out the steering links to the front knuckles and how to link it to the servo.

I thing I'm going to go with the Top Force battery holders, as I've already got the J-tree, and the split pin posts, just need to make the battery hold downs, of course this means the protype bottom plate for the chassis is too narrow, it needs to be about 15mm wider on each side, but that's why it's a prototype.

[taliesin]

this just looks cool. i can't wait to see the final product. bravo!

[richytanimal]

It's looking great. can't wait to see it finished

[TenzoR]

Perhaps you should look into Lipo Saddle packs. You can place them on the sides and have room in the middle for esc, servos, receiver?

[TAZ-NZ]

Perhaps you should look into Lipo Saddle packs. You can place them on the sides and have room in the middle for esc, servos, receiver?

Yeah, I'm been think the same thing, mounting the servo on the top deck is going to be more to work that it first seemed. If I go with a saddle pack and a Hitec Mighty Mini Servo and mount the receiver and ESC on the upper deck, I may just be able to fit everything in, the 180mm wheel base leaves zero room to move.

If switch back to the TA02 steering parts and widen the chassis some, I should be able to squeeze a Maxamps lipo saddle pack in there, I've got less than 70mm between the motor and the steering cam on the left side of the chassis, the maxamps lipo is 34mm X 66mm X 25mm, which is insanely tight.

On a side note, I'm thinking I may cheating a little on the chassis plates, the re-release Top Force 2005 (58362 ) FRP chasis plate are still listed as avilable on Tamiya USA website, I'm thinking I grab a set if I can and just cut them down to size, lot easier than starting from scatch.

Problem is can't find anyone that stock them that ships internationally, so if anyone can help me source the following parts I'd be very grateful.

4025027 Lower deck.

4025028 Upper deck.

9465396 Screw Bag A

9465397 Screw Bag B

[Vin87]

What an awesome project! I've just send you a PM regarding some links where you can find these parts you're looking for as I don't know if its against the forum policy to post these links here.

[irenL]

you can mount the steering servo on the upper deck, however, you're better off swapping the steering belcrank to a 90 degree unit, instead of the TF's 180 degree unit. So the servo saver will face the side of the chassis, not the front.

I do have a spare TF upper and lower plates I was offering last time, but you're too late, I've just used them for my 200mm wide TA01 project... and no, not gonna let you cut them. you're free to take measurements off them though, as soon as I got a scanner.

[caddy shack]

This is starting to take shape nice. i'd make the chassis plate a little bigger so its a good few mill away from the body you should be able to lay 3 sub c sells down then , you can get then 2 schumacher battery plate / holder thing then to hold the 3cells flat each side, this way you have all the centre free for mounting the servo etc..

keep the pics coming

CAD

[TAZ-NZ]

What an awesome project! I've just send you a PM regarding some links where you can find these parts you're looking for as I don't know if its against the forum policy to post these links here.

Thanks for the link, I may have to re-think the idea of cutting down the Top Force lower plate, my chassis is a full 80mm shorter and there may material missing on the top force lower plate where I need to mount some items.

you can mount the steering servo on the upper deck, however, you're better off swapping the steering belcrank to a 90 degree unit, instead of the TF's 180 degree unit. So the servo saver will face the side of the chassis, not the front.

Argh, Slaps head. Why the badword* didn't I think of that!

I hate you in the nicest possible way.

That means I can stick to a standard battery and use the Top Force battery mounts. I found a Team Associated servo horn set that should give me the parts I need to make this work, I tried finding a suitable tamiya part but came up empty.

(* badword not as bad as one might think.)

I do have a spare TF upper and lower plates I was offering last time, but you're too late, I've just used them for my 200mm wide TA01 project... and no, not gonna let you cut them. you're free to take measurements off them though, as soon as I got a scanner.

A scan of the chassis plates would be great, if you've got a steel rule throw it on next to chassis plates when you scan it. I only looked at cutting up a FRP chassis plates as they're re-release items and still available, I wouldn't cut the carbon fibre or vintage items.

Anyway your idea was so good I whipped up a top chassis plate and mount a servo to it, look like it will work perfectly. I put the servo horn to the back to give the link to the 90deg steering cam a better angle, I'll probably have to adjust a few thing once I get the Asssociated parts.

This is starting to take shape nice. i'd make the chassis plate a little bigger so its a good few mill away from the body you should be able to lay 3 sub c sells down then , you can get then 2 schumacher battery plate / holder thing then to hold the 3cells flat each side, this way you have all the centre free for mounting the servo etc..

keep the pics coming

CAD

Yeah, I look at the idea of NiHm saddle pack with 3 cells each side of the chassis, but it had the same issues as the LiPo saddle pack very little room to work with. IrenL idea solves my battery space & steering servo mounting issues, and I can mount the ESC on top of the rear transmission above the motor just behind the steering servo, and the Hitec DCX receiver I use is so small, I can probably squeeze it on the lower plate between the battery and front diff assembly.

Here's one more picture for you, I was test fitting body to see if my first attempt at a from body mount worked, I made it with a Brat front body post & modified the Brat body post mount so I could screw it to the TA02 front shock tower mounts.

[TA-Mark]

Build is coming along nice. You can buy raw sheets of carbon fibre in many thicknesses straight from eBay. I grabbed a sheet with the plan of extending the Micro-T alittle to help keep the front wheels touching the black stuff and give some more room to fit real esc and reciever.

I'll grab some scans of the original TF frp plates tonight beside a metal rule. Don't know if it will fit completely in the A4 scanner bed so I may need to setup the camera on the stand and take a photo. I have my TF plates out of the car atm trialing the HPI TA02 tub in buggy form which works great. Probably better for me to email the pictures as they will be large.

Cheers, Mark

[B.M.T.]

That'll be nuts on damp asphalt.

Making good progress, matie.

[TA-Mark]

Here's the scan of the Top-Force FRP plates. Please excuse the red dirt stains this chassis does get a lot of use. File is large, 1.43mb.

Cheers, Mark

[TAZ-NZ]

Here's the scan of the Top-Force FRP plates. Please excuse the red dirt stains this chassis does get a lot of use. File is large, 1.43mb.

Cheers, Mark

Thanks, that's great mate.

I'll give you a tip, before posting any image on the web open it in MS Paint and save it as jpg, even if starts out in jpg format the file size will be reduced 20-50% with very little loss of quality. I got your image down to 716kb.

oh and who cares about the dirt, rc cars are designed to be run.

[TA-Mark]

Ummm... MS Paint.... Would be the last art app I open. I used Corel with 10% .jpg compression as the image was not intended for the web. Compression = throwing away data. Resample the image is better for reducing size, did you see how many pixels the image was? I wanted it nice and clear so you could get a good 1:1 print, photo quality. If I was going for a web picture I would have used the same 10% compression and reduced the number of pixels to the average screen size (1024x768) ~150kb.

Mark

[TAZ-NZ]

Ummm... MS Paint.... Would be the last art app I open. I used Corel with 10% .jpg compression as the image was not intended for the web. Compression = throwing away data. Resample the image is better for reducing size, did you see how many pixels the image was? I wanted it nice and clear so you could get a good 1:1 print, photo quality. If I was going for a web picture I would have used the same 10% compression and reduced the number of pixels to the average screen size (1024x768) ~150kb.

Mark

I'm big fan of Corel, I've owned and used over the years, versions 2,3,4,7,10,11,12, and currently 13. Yeah I did check out the image res, thanks more is always better, I was just thinking of everybody who reads this thread from now on.

MS Paint does two things really well in my book otherwise I'd never touch it, pixel by pixel editing, and has the best compromise between compression ratio and image quality of any image app I've used, It anything but purfect but it has it's uses.

I'll draw the plates in CAD over the next couple of days, so I can play around the design as much as I like

Thanks again.

[markbt73]

Yeah, I look at the idea of NiHm saddle pack with 3 cells each side of the chassis, but it had the same issues as the LiPo saddle pack very little room to work with. IrenL idea solves my battery space & steering servo mounting issues, and I can mount the ESC on top of the rear transmission above the motor just behind the steering servo, and the Hitec DCX receiver I use is so small, I can probably squeeze it on the lower plate between the battery and front diff assembly.

Just a thought: Why not make the top plate a little wider, so you have room for the receiver up top? Less chance of getting a wire tangled in the drive shaft that way.

Looking forward to seeing this one finished. This is a really cool idea.

[TAZ-NZ]

Just a thought: Why not make the top plate a little wider, so you have room for the receiver up top? Less chance of getting a wire tangled in the drive shaft that way.

Looking forward to seeing this one finished. This is a really cool idea.

I'm little limited with what I can do with the top plate, I can't go any further to right with it because on the prop shaft, but I may be able to widen it to the left a little and move the servo over some, then I can mount the receiver beside the servo. I'll have to wiat for the steering parts to turn up to confirm what will work in regards to the steering servo's position.

Anyway here the lastet progress pic:

I added wings to the lower chassis plate and fitted the Top Force battery holders last night, I got all the transmission parts I was waiting on today, so the front diff & rear transmission are fully assembled, greased and ball raced. I fitted the adjustable upper suspension arms, which solved the issues I was having with the TL-01 upper rear items, it has all new axles, dog bones (39mm rear, 42mm front) and screws, etc all round. I tried to fit the rear anti-swap bar, but no joy the sway both the TL01 & TA02 swap bars are two short for this setup and there isn't enough clearance between the motor & the left rear suspension arm for the vertical link.