Skysaxon 1 Posted June 13, 2008 Ive written to same threads here that Ive screwed in a 11turn motor to by ReReBrat - now thats not true anymore . Ive upgraded my car with an ABC TQ100 brushless Set Dont know much about this ESC and motor, only that the motor should make 5800r/v and the ESC will take and least 8,4v. At the moment im running with a 7,2v stickpack team orion 3300 mah but will upgrade to a 8,4v in the naxt days. The only thing I can tell you now is, that the Brat realy flys with this motor! So and now the pics. The paint is spoiled while a friend told me i should back up the red with silver wet in wet , but for a runner its ok and the hardshell is still for the shelf. the setting with the 11turn motor and a jamara HF40 Lipo ESC - and a gyro for testing the new motor - no gyro fastest setting and shortest transmission Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dready 0 Posted June 13, 2008 Are you mAd? Let us know how you get on? I got a Frog at the moment that is crying out for a bit more speed, Not sure whether i'll go that far. So what do you reckon will break first? My moneys (10p) on you lunching the gearbox Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skysaxon 1 Posted June 13, 2008 What will break first? Thats a good question - with the 11turn I hab no troubles at all the gearbox and the diff. are still fine. A very importend thing is that you put the rubber rings in the shaft cups to provide the axleshaft from moving and flipping out and the frist tunig at all has to be ballbearings to every thing, but thats nothing new. the next step for this car will be a new setting for the frontaxle. I just look around for same damper/springs to replace the original springs and maybe even a change for the rear ones. And then there is a mad devil in my neck which allways tells me I should look out for the Traxxas Rustler VXL motor set Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryanbored 3 Posted June 13, 2008 Hehe! That's just silly. I like silly Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mymonsterbeetleisbroken 16 Posted June 13, 2008 The diff will probably wear out in a hurry, but brushless is awesome in these old vintage kits Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RCH_Blackfoot 0 Posted June 13, 2008 My bet is the front bumper being the first thing to get broke , followed instantly by the body from the speed this thing will produce My 19T Frog is too fast for the pogostick front susp to handle, but its still fun. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skysaxon 1 Posted June 14, 2008 Was today out to drive the Brat on the parking ground of a supermarket - boys what should I say? This Engine is definitly to much for this car! with the short gear it excellerate extremly quick, but you need a verry very carfull and sensitive trottle finger, otherwise the car spinns around. If I had a topspeed with the 11turn around 50km/h so I now reach it with half throttle and everything faster is in this place undriveable. Fast turns a now a problem that the car gets allways somewhere some grip and produces highsider which you never have seen in MotoGP. So the next step has to be finding a setup for the car that excelleration is controlable and the handling in fast turns get better. Frist step on this way will be getting 4 adjustable oilshocks to see if maybee there is a possibilty to make the car controlable. Greetings from Innsbruck Michael Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deejay1711 0 Posted June 15, 2008 Was today out to drive the Brat on the parking ground of a supermarket - boys what should I say?This Engine is definitly to much for this car! with the short gear it excellerate extremly quick, but you need a verry very carfull and sensitive trottle finger, otherwise the car spinns around. If I had a topspeed with the 11turn around 50km/h so I now reach it with half throttle and everything faster is in this place undriveable. Fast turns a now a problem that the car gets allways somewhere some grip and produces highsider which you never have seen in MotoGP. So the next step has to be finding a setup for the car that excelleration is controlable and the handling in fast turns get better. Frist step on this way will be getting 4 adjustable oilshocks to see if maybee there is a possibilty to make the car controlable. Greetings from Innsbruck Michael hi michael i hope my little tutorials on fitting hex wheels on the brat were ok for you, its quite simple really i haven't come up with any genius invention or anything! i hope you manage to find some wheels and tires to help with your handling and the 4 shocks is a definite must i feel. front shock mounts are available from CRP, you will need 60mm shocks for the front (touring car size) and 80mm on the rear. CRP also do some rear shock mounts. i don't have any fitted on my brat but if anyone does maybe they could let me know if there is any difference? enjoy dejay1711 ian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skysaxon 1 Posted June 15, 2008 So waht will break first? No not the gearbox or the diff, even not the frontbumper but it was today close to it No the weakest point of the Brat is the matalplte that hold the swingarm! It gets bend outwards nad so the whole axle gets lose. Easieast way to fix it is chance over both sides, but that couldnt be the end solution. I think a layer of 3mm carbon will help a lot - so I try it out when I got some carbon plates next month. deejay1711 - thanks a lot for your "how to do" it will help for sure. Part 1: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...73&id=20902 Part 2: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...74&id=20902 So anybody can find it again Greetings from Innsbruck Michael Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TA-Mark 195 Posted June 15, 2008 I'm suprised it didn't eat the pinion. I can't get 1/2 a battery through my Mamba on a stock alloy pinion... smoothed... and the spur too once the pinion has worn enough. ...or does the Brat come with a steel pinion? (Never owned one). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skysaxon 1 Posted June 15, 2008 I think the reason why my pinion or diff is still alive, is that I dont jump and bash. I mostly run on tarmac or gras and the airtime of this car is to short to be counted The pinion of the Brat is still an alloy one like any other Tamiya in my hand. When I open and regrease the gearbox - maybe next week - I take some pics to show the wearout. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TA-Mark 195 Posted June 15, 2008 I wasn't bashing or jumping or even driving real hard, only doing high speed runs up the street on tarmac. The alloy is so soft it's left as a pile of powder in the bottom of the gearbox. I wore out 5 packs (2 in a pack) of them before I discovered carson steel pinions. Since replacing with a carson steel pinion I've not had one wear. When I solved the alloy pinion issue it was the next alloy gear in the gearbox that would wear fast. Atleast you got a few runs from it before it starts to jump teeth unlike the pinion. Replacing these 2 alloy gears with all plastic solved it. Now it's the splines on diff outdrives I shear off smooth. I'm looking at a 1:10 nitro->Mamba conversion to get a chassis strong enough to handle it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skysaxon 1 Posted January 17, 2009 Ok boys, here Im again and the Brat is still alive I said before that the swingarmplates a weak point and they still the thing which stop me from running the Brat. But there is help coming. I bought a second pair of plates and double these swingarmplates so this problem should be solved. The driveshaft are going to be changed to universals which even may help a bit. One big change was made to the electrics - I aded a gyro to get the car under control. Especialy when you exellerate on slippery surface the Brat was uncontrolable, so the gyro which I had with the 11turn motor was a "must have". Piniongear and diff are still original and have no wearout. So stay tuned for "The Brat journey across the brushless universe" 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skysaxon 1 Posted January 17, 2009 The first mod at hte frontaxle - original coils and unknow damper (Kyosho Optima?) - better but not optimal. The next step dismounted original coils and Tamiya CVA shocks - much better and the possibility to adjust - this mod will stay You can fit any Tamiya CVA coil when you change the coilplate so now this shock is adjustable too. Just some minor improofments, but they make the car more controlable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites