C.P.R. P-160F what Limit in Motor turn.?

[zulu69]

Hi..I just got the above nice unit which I do not know what is the limit in turns of a motor I can run[8)].Some tech data on box :Maximum current capacity:160A constant,640A momentary.I want to run My dunatech 02h. I have both rotors for it 7010w and 6513w...Any Ideas[?][?]

Thanks

[theshopkeeper]

The CPR has a notional capacity to take only the standard 540 or the Sport Tune 540, although it will usually work on any 23 turn motor.

[zulu69]

quote:

Originally posted by theshopkeeper

The CPR has a notional capacity to take only the standard 540 or the Sport Tune 540, although it will usually work on any 23 turn motor.

---

id="quote">id="quote">

Hello..There are more than one CPR units..the P-100f is for Technigold-Dynatech 01R tops.Tech is 21 turn,Dyna 17 turn.With 100A constant,400A momentary Capacity.

But the P-160f has 160A constant.640A momentary.Anyone knows the turn limit on that or can calculate based on specs..???[?][?][?]

[Ridgeback Racing Team]

I know that around 30 A will do for a 16 turns motor while 45 A will be suited for 12 turns, so i feel like 160 A would be no-limit. However, with every esc the amount of Amps and the turns related to it differ.

[DJTheo]

Tamiyas current specs sound very optimistic like PMPO Watts on cheap stereos [], don't think any Tamiya CRP can handle less then 13T...

Cheers

[zulu69]

Hello and Thanks for the help mates.![]I just attached a Dyna 02H and is working just fine for the moment..[] I'll let You know if something goes wrong..[8)]

Regards

[Bwaaatch]

Bumping this old thread back out of hibernation, hoping someone can point me towards a more recent and comprehensive answer …

I just bought a 1996 Dyna-Run to match with a P-160f CPR.

Advice above suggests 13T might be the limit for this CPR, and the Dyna-Run is indeed 13T (depending on how you measure, see the link to TamiyaBase above.)

Anyone got experience of this combo? Or any knowledge on these things that might help? It's only for a shelfer, but I might wheel it round the room every now and again and would prefer not to see the magic smoke …

[svenb]

Lovely choice of ESC and motor, if you look at period tamiya catalogues you'll see both the Dynarun and the 160 together.

I've the same combo in a TA03, pretty sure the only motor at that time which tamiya produced which wasn't suitable is the 11t supermodifed.

Should be fine with a 12t TRF acto motor too

Edited September 25, 2022 by svenb

[94eg!]

I ran a P160F ina Dyna Storm rerelease on a clay off road track. With the re-re 14T pink motor it would run until the pack was dead.  When I swapped it out for a real Acto Power 2WD pink motor, it would enter an over-current  protection mode several times a battery pack.

 

BTW CPRs suck to drive. Futaba ESCs (which is what these are) of that time had an auto-braking feature that made them almost unusable for 2wd.

[Bwaaatch]

Thanks @svenb and @94eg! . And a good excuse to go and eyeball a 1996 RC Guide Book 📕❤️

Sounds like I’ll be fine, and it gives me some confidence to actually plug it in!

I’ve heard others say that the CPRs don’t drive well, so I have no plans to really run it. But my Shelfer policy is — like most people’s, I think — that it SHOULD run (without exploding!)

[94eg!]

Yes. They feature both over-current and temperature protection. No way it will melt down. If you're not going to run it on track, then don't give it a second thought.

If you drive it, what you need to do is set your throttle trim so that neutral is just barely moving the car forward.  Make sure its enough that the each still drives forward after letting off from full throttle. This is the only way to make it drive "normal" and prevent the auto-braking.