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Posted

I absolutely wrecked the paint on my new Pajero. The plan was:

1: Primer and sand smooth ( I got that right)

2: Tamiya Maroon

3: Tamiya clear red

4: Tamiya Pearl clear

I've done something similar before (but with metallic red) and the results were sensational.

It should have looked fantastic, nice depth to the paint, and a pearl shimmer. All I got was runs, bleeding through mask, and left the masking tape on too long, so theres adhesive all over the silver. I waited 24 hours to put the clear red on, and it still dissolved the maroon underneath and made it run!!

It looks absolutely pathetic! :D

My question is, should I attack it with the oven cleaner and try again, or attempt to fix it? The paint is less than a week old, but primer was used first.

Also, it seems that the Tamiya block colour paints are very hard to apply compared with the metallics. Has anyone else norticed this?

Posted

If it were me, I'd strip it right back & start again, otherwise you could put in just as much time & effort to be rewarded with previous flaws showing through.

You want somewhere nice & warm & dry to evaporate all the paint solvent (I have a convenient south facing conservatory, 30c on a sunny Jan day :D ), for acrylics I give it 48hrs minimum before applying a different colour, preferably more.

Posted
If it were me, I'd strip it right back & start again, otherwise you could put in just as much time & effort to be rewarded with previous flaws showing through.

You want somewhere nice & warm & dry to evaporate all the paint solvent (I have a convenient south facing conservatory, 30c on a sunny Jan day :D ), for acrylics I give it 48hrs minimum before applying a different colour, preferably more.

That would be my preferred course of action, but I'm scared that the paint won't come off since I primed the shell first.

Posted

EzyOff red can will strip all the paint including the primer.

Just make sure you remove all chrome bits 'cos the chrome will disappear immediately!!

Posted
EzyOff red can will strip all the paint including the primer.

Just make sure you remove all chrome bits 'cos the chrome will disappear immediately!!

Thanks mate.....I take it Ezyoff red is available in supermarkets here?

Posted
Scrub it all with a scouring pad, sand flat any big runs, blast it with matt black - and beat the snot out of it :blink:

Hehe...excellent idea!! Might stick the Novak in for a bit of extra fun, eh? :(

Posted

Is that Easy-Off Bam? Bathroom cleaning stuff? I've always used Mr. Muscle oven cleaner (the caustic stuff). Works good on static model bodies.

Posted

no not the BAM trigger sprays, they do nothing except degrease (not too shabby but not as good as solvents)

Thanks mate.....I take it Ezyoff red is available in supermarkets here?

yep red spraycan, not the green... Coles, Safeway etc

i got a few cans spare here too if you can't find

Posted
rub some wd40 onto the adhesive marks (i'm assuming left by the masking tape) and it comes right off. effortless. :)

Too late....the first coat went on last night.

Didn't seem to do much 4 hours later, I'll check it when I get home, give it a scrub, then spray on some more I guess.

The paint on my Ranger shell came off after half an hour!!

Posted

i spray them in a big plastic garbage bag that you can sealup so it doesn't dry off so quick

leave overnight, go give the paint a poke with a takeaway chopstick, respray EasyOff... repeat 2-3 times usually enough

Posted
Is EasyOff flammable?

I'd like to know if the aerosol can are allowed in the check-in luggage on board an airplane?

Don't think it is flammable as it's a foam, but you'd have a hard time convincing airport staff to let you take some on a plane.

Materials safety data sheet says it can be transported by ground only, as it's a pressurised container.

- James

Posted
Don't think it is flammable as it's a foam, but you'd have a hard time convincing airport staff to let you take some on a plane.

Materials safety data sheet says it can be transported by ground only, as it's a pressurised container.

- James

It's too bad that my local distributor only imports the fume free Blue can.

:)

Posted

what i know so far:

oven cleaner or lye: I usually reserve it to strip off anodizing, etch into the aluminium as well, never tried it on paint.

aircraft paint stripper: usually available in auto supply shop, not recommended for plastic, works great stripping paint off metal, but watch out for the fume.

brake fluid: strips cured paint + clear coat off metal and plastic, doesn't react to plastic auto parts, but always test in a small corner.

acetone: strips cured paint + clear coat off metal, aggressively corrosive toward plastics.

used automotive oil: works good as sealant for wood, nice base for fence post painting.

solvent (i think it's a b52, but need to check at the garage): strips fresh, non-clear-coated paint off metal, have only tried on automotive plastics, dulls the finish, removes any grease and oil film.

if all else fails: back to basic, the most laborous process.... sand paper..

Posted

What are you doing with the stuffed one? I'm after a not so good one to cut up for a LWB project. Don't really want to do it to a new body and I'll need a Toe-Rag chassis under it.

Cheers, Mark

Posted

if its a hard shell just sand it back flat, till you got rid of the islands and then dust it with paint so you can see if every things flat and level. this is what i do to 1:1 cars.

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