Clodbuster

[Illacrew]

Start Restoring my Clod and realized Its different than the normal ones I see.

01. Why does my clod have a metal chassis?

02. Only four shocks?

03. Any chance of me finding a original shell?

04. How should I match front and rear motors, Just use 2 identical ones?

05. Would you guys suggest using the dual steering?

06. Do you think I could make it street legal.

[mongoose1983]

01. Why does my clod have a metal chassis?

02. Only four shocks?

03. Any chance of me finding a original shell?

04. How should I match front and rear motors, Just use 2 identical ones?

05. Would you guys suggest using the dual steering?

Hiya Jim.

01. Yours is not the original Clod Buster chassis. The original is shorter, and is molded in black plastic. Probably not better than the one you already have though.

02. Your truck has four shocks because that's not the original chassis. The original has the option of using 8 shocks. But, if you care at all, 8 shocks doesn't do much because most of the weight is already placed right over the axles. So having 8 shocks instead of four is mostly something aestethic.

03. Try the Illinois word-famous "Clod Junkyard". They have everything and, best of all, they sell by parts and are very cheap.

04. (...)

05. The original stock Clod Buster doesn't have the option of using the front steering only. Just like the mid 80's real Monster Trucks the Clod Buster is 4x4x4, that means four wheel drive + four wheel steering.

Good luck with the resto and PLEASE post pictures of the proccess!

Best regards,

EB

--

[Illacrew]

Does that mean the chassis is not made by Tamiya?

One good thing is it came with a bag full of nice parts, New front and rear transmission, skid guards ect.

[HereBeMonsters]

I would say that's not a Clod Buster at all...?

[mongoose1983]

Does that mean the chassis is not made by Tamiya?

One good thing is it came with a bag full of nice parts, New front and rear transmission, skid guards ect.

Sorry to say, the only Tamiya parts I can identify in the picture are the wheels, tires, and the suspension bars. Shocks, body and chassis are not Tamiya. If you upload a picture of the axles, then I can tell you if the axles are the Clod Buster's or not. A picture of the extra parts it came with would be of help too.

Cheers,

EB

--

[Badboy]

The only clod thing you got is!

2 x complete axels with wheels

The rest on the pic is other parts.

Probably ESP chassie, if not home made.

The body looks like Tamiya TLT/TXT or something

Shocks looks like wheelie king by HPI

Hope this will help.

If you consider to sell the alu chassie I mite be intressted

I'm looking for a longer wheelbase chassie for my Monster.

Cheers

Badboy

[Illacrew]

[Badboy]

Yes!

Clod axels!

Badboy

[mongoose1983]

Do you have an extra pair of Clod Buster axles???

[Illacrew]

By axels what do you mean? the axel itself or the whole transmissions?. I have both. Not sure i'm interested in getting rid of them though.

[Badboy]

By axels what do you mean? the axel itself or the whole transmissions?. I have both. Not sure i'm interested in getting rid of them though.

The hole lot of axels and trannys...

Badboy

[Illacrew]

I just saw the ones in my wanna B clod are normal, The axles out of the clod are locked. What ones should I use?. I may also trade or sale the extras. Not to sure what I would do with them now that I think about it.

[mongoose1983]

I just saw the ones in my wanna B clod are normal, The axles out of the clod are locked. What ones should I use?. I may also trade or sale the extras. Not to sure what I would do with them now that I think about it.

The original Clod Buster doesn't have an option to lock the differential, so that is a modification.

Anyway, the extra axles are not locked but they don't have the motor, am I right?? Do you have the pinions for them?

[RCH_Blackfoot]

The body is the original run of the Traxxas EMaxx with the Blur Crystal set (they color coded the bodys to match the crystal sets)

I would run a locked rear axle and open front if it were mine. Will steer alot easier with a open front diff.

You can run any set of "0" degree timed motors in both the front and rear of a Clod, but the rear motor must be wired in reverse polarity. If you run a set of motors that allow you to adjust the timing, whatever timing you run on the front motor, run the oposite timing in the rear. i.e. -5 degrees timing in the front & +5 degrees in the rear and hook up power to ground and ground to power on the rear motor always.

[terry.sc]

01. Why does my clod have a metal chassis?

Because the original junk plastic chassis has been upgraded with a rare Sassy Chassis conversion

http://www.sassychassis.com/clodaluminum.htm

Sassy Chassis have not been around for years and the chassis is collectable in the right places.

02. Only four shocks?

The original pogo stick setup was useless except for making the truck bounce everywhere with no damping. The four Traxxas T-Maxx shocks fitted are a better combination and popular on Clods.

03. Any chance of me finding a original shell?

Depends. If you just want a Clod shell they are available new from the Super Clodbuster. If you an original buy the Super Clod shell and fit a set of original Clod grille and tailgate parts to get the original look.

04. How should I match front and rear motors, Just use 2 identical ones?

You do need a pair of motors that are either zero timed or have adjustable endbells so you can adjust the motor timing to match on the rear motor.

05. Would you guys suggest using the dual steering?

If you want it to have a decent turning circle then yes. Either that or make sure the end stops have been cut off the steering knuckles. If you go as far as fitting Thundertech CVD axles to the front you can get a tight turning circle with just 2 wheel steering, but that starts to get expensive.

If you want to restore it back to a standard Clod it should be fairly easy. A lot of Clods are bought to be used as a base for crawlers and just the axles are taken from the kit, which means junking the chassis, springs, shocks, steering assembly, body, etc so there are usually plenty of these parts going cheap on ebay.

The diffs are locked for crawling, gives better traction for slow speed crawling but does nothing for high speed handling. If you are bashing don't use locked axles unless you want the turning circle of a supertanker.

[Illacrew]

Since i have 2 sets of axles i think i will leave this one the way it is and buy the other parts needed to make an original. I doubt the original body would fit on this chassis anyway. Thanks for all your time fellas. Jacob

[Rabiedmushroom]

Awww, the poor thing doesn't even have Clod type bodyshell.

Terry - I can't believe that's a SassyChassis; I thought they'd look less home made than that!

Illacrew - looks like you've got a good project on your hands. I have a full body set for sale in my Trades if you are interested, which would be perfect for a vintage Chevy Clod restoration:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades_model.asp...237&id=6733

[terry.sc]

Terry - I can't believe that's a SassyChassis; I thought they'd look less home made than that!

That's actually a pretty sophisticated chassis for the mid to late 90s. The early ESP and JPS chassis were made up just from aluminium angle and sheet.

[Illacrew]

The original body would never come close to fitting. Or I would buy one. With the extended chassis it is HUGE!

[DavidKY502]

Was reading this nobody mention but the diffs are locked I willing to bet money they were glued together. What I did to mine. Have a Clod Buster myself only thing left is the name now and the axles. What alot of the people I know that crawl with them do to the axles to lock them is glue all the gears in the diff together. Noticed it killed the turning radius too but that can be over come with some modifications. Still not as good as being open but with 4ws and such still usable.

[Illacrew]

Thanks David, I am going to leave the unlocked diff's in the truck it came with 4 total. 2 locked 2 unlocked.