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Widening The Ta03 Wheelbase.

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I did a Cadillac Escallade dual motor TA03 project a couple of years ago and, even though it was built to a point where it runs successfully, there's always been something about it that's been bugging me. Even with the supersized wheels I still don't have a wide enough wheelbase. The supersized wheels are just too far inside the wheel arches to look 'right' if you know what I mean. I can't get supersized wheels with an offset as far as I can ascertain so... Does anyone know if there's a way to widen the wheelbase of the TA03 chassis from 190mm to 200mm?

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I know what you mean, You should be able to sneak that extra 10 mm with some tamiya wide axles and the wide hex hubs that are often surplus in many kits on the rear hub part tree. This with a couple of 1mm shims one either side like those from the TB02 kit should give you the 10mm you desire and for about a tenner a good price as well.

Cheers

Ryck

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If you use 2 long rear axle sets that should get it 10m wider 'TAMIYA 53332'

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Thanks for the part number. I need 2 sets :P Probably impossible to find being discontinued.

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If you REALLY need to go wide this www.junfac.com seller has whats needed ! Down side is that you have to make the axle hole in the rims larger.

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Thanks for the replies and info. Anyone got any of the wide hex hubs going spare?

Edit:

Would the TG10 Long Axles (50808) work?

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Thanks for the replies and info. Anyone got any of the wide hex hubs going spare?

Edit:

Would the TG10 Long Axles (50808) work?

by the way: you did mean it's 'track width/tread' not the it's 'wheelbase' :)

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by the way: you did mean it's 'track width/tread' not the it's 'wheelbase' :)

Yep, hence me saying 'widening' instead of 'lengthening'. ;)

Anyone have any experience with junfac or their stuff?

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Yep, hence me saying 'widening' instead of 'lengthening'. :)

Anyone have any experience with junfac or their stuff?

Items I got from Junfac seems VERY good to me , both widerners and chassie parts !! Ordered in much needed skidplates for my CR-01 today.

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The Junfac ones are very good, Tho I would not use them on road as they will give to much slop and would also push it out to far. I have used the TG10 ones but I also changed the interior bearing tho I cannot remember the size of what it needs to be.

And _miga_ is right its track not wheelbase, Wheelbase is a specific term for front to back.

best Wishes

Ryck

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And I never said he was wrong. In fact, I believe I agreed with him. I guess I wrongly thought that people would just get the 'widening' bit of my question. My apologies if I didn't know the term 'wheelbase' didn't include the width dimension to a car's base. I put my hands up and stand corrected.

Anyway, back onto subject...

Junfac ones not right for road use? Ok then. Thankfully I've found a seller for the 53332's (although I don't yet know if they have any in stock) so all I'm after is the wide hexes you mentioned before. I don't suppose anyone knows of some alloy ones out there? I'm gonna need a few sets. The ones on my M04L's have cracked and need replacing too.

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how did you do the twin motor set up on the chassis?

All you need is another gearbox case, a set of gears and a idle gear shaft. Strip your none powered gearbox down and re build it as a powered box using the extra gears and then just bolt it back into place. You don't have to use the belt but I am so that the motors are evenly loaded. I'm running two sport tuned motors with the standard Tamiya Dual motor ESC (TEU-103BK) and a lipo bat and it goes like heck. Its as good as some of my brushless cars.

If you have a TA03F you will need the smaller pulleys (plastic parts F) to run the belt and if you have a TA03R you will need the Plastic parts E (bumper) and the front shock tower you get with the new gearbox.

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sweet

how dya reckon it would work on a TA01/02?

Not without serious modification. TA03 is designed in such a way that you can swap the diffs from either end of the tub. Meaning you can fit either diff to the front or rear of the tub. Any drive layout is possible.

Front motor, front wheel drive (driven diff on front, no belt).

Front motor, rear wheel drive (no diff in front, belt on)

Front motor, AWD (TA03F)

Rear motor, front wheel drive (driven diff on rear, no diff in rear, belt on (rather pointless setup))

Rear motor, rear wheel drive (driven diff on rear, no belt)

Rear motor, AWD (TA03R)

Twin motor, AWD (driven diffs both front and rear)

It is a very versatile chassis and my favourite of the onroad tourers.

Cheers, Mark

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i was thinking a rear whole diff and housing on the front and then use the front suspension linkages... but i would want to use the driveshaft like you did the belt... to compensate for extra grip or motor speeds not beings quite equal...

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If you spin the rear gear casing around backwards so the 2 outputs for the centre driveshafts face each other, one is on the left side of the chassis and the other is on the right side. Spinning the gearcase backwards also means that the front motor spins backeards and would need to be a modified motor that can have it's advance reversed. If you don't spin the gearcasing you mount on the front you have 2 outputs for the centre driveshaft pointing forward and not at each other. It would take some serious modifications to the front gearcase to make the centre driveshat output come out in the right position. Nothing is impossible, just not everything is easy.

TA03 is unscrew the chassis and screw it back together in a different configuration. No modification and very easy to do.

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MRD, thats a nice tidy install.

How do the twin motor setups perform? I am guessing you get more torque allowing you to gear up. Is the performance limited by the discharge of the battery though?

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sweet

how dya reckon it would work on a TA01/02?

A twin motor TA01/02 you mean?

Easy, just bolt up the FF01 front gearbox to your TA01/02. All the gears that fits the TA01/02 rear box will fit into the FF01 box, no modification needed.

The FF01 front gear box tree (A tree) comes with all that u need: front box, bottom cover, mini bumper, shock tower. About the only other thing you'll need is the motor plate, which can be replaced with an FF01 heatsink motor plate. Part numbers should be easy to find. FF01 and TA02 share the same chassis tub.

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MRD, thats a nice tidy install.

How do the twin motor setups perform? I am guessing you get more torque allowing you to gear up. Is the performance limited by the discharge of the battery though?

Cheers :rolleyes:. Im running 23T pinions and the way the thing picks up speed is amazing. The lipo i'm using is a 3300 25c pack and it performs superbly, no problems with power delivery. The only thing I have to keep an eye on is the run times, with not having a voltage cut off theres a danger of shafting the lipo so I just keep the run times sensible and stop as soon as it starts looking tired but even doing that I'm getting an easy 10 mins out of it anyway. Its brushless performance for 50.

I've got two LRP 3.5 turn brushless systems and I'm toying with the Idea of sticking them both in the car with my two Orion 4700 Lipo packs and giving it a run, BUT the TA03 isn't the tightest chassis is the world and I'm not sure how it would handle the power and I have the small problem of space. My HPI Pro4 uses alot of road with the 3.5 in it, so I'm gonna need a runway for a car with two. There is a small airfield near me but I don't know if I could use it.

Dunno how fast it would be but here's the spec for the motors:

RPM: 70,560

KV: 9800

Power: 653 watts

Magnet Material: Sintered

Speed Control: Sphere Competition only

1306 watts of power, muhahahaha.

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twin motor only picksup faster, won't have higher topspeed unless you gear it to the moon

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twin motor only picksup faster, won't have higher topspeed unless you gear it to the moon

I hear what your saying, if you stick with stock motors you wont get it much faster but even with Sport tuned motors and a mild gearing up its still 1/3 faster than stock with amazing acceleration.

The stock gearing with a silver can motor is 19tooth, the sport tuned motors run a bit quicker and are on 23t.

19t (stock) gearing with silver can = wheel speed of 2174 Rpm

23t with sport tuned = wheel speed of 3358 Rpm

19t with 3.5t brushless = wheel speed of 10495 Rpm. so it possibly needs to be geared down from stock. No moon trips needed :rolleyes:

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If you spin the rear gear casing around backwards so the 2 outputs for the centre driveshafts face each other, one is on the left side of the chassis and the other is on the right side. Spinning the gearcase backwards also means that the front motor spins backeards and would need to be a modified motor that can have it's advance reversed. If you don't spin the gearcasing you mount on the front you have 2 outputs for the centre driveshaft pointing forward and not at each other. It would take some serious modifications to the front gearcase to make the centre driveshat output come out in the right position. Nothing is impossible, just not everything is easy.

TA03 is unscrew the chassis and screw it back together in a different configuration. No modification and very easy to do.

yea i was thinking that...it would be fun though....

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yea i was thinking that...it would be fun though....

Randy, TA-Mark got it completely wrong this time.

Building a twin motor TA01/02 is very easy.. Here's how:

Bolt up the FF01 front gearbox to your TA01/02. All the gears that fits the TA01/02 rear box will fit into the FF01 box, no modification needed.

The FF01 front gear box tree (A tree) comes with all that u need: front box, bottom cover, mini bumper, shock tower. About the only other thing you'll need is the motor plate, which can be replaced with an FF01 heatsink motor plate. Part numbers should be easy to find. FF01 and TA02 share the same chassis tub.

Being that the TA01/02 shares the same gearbox front and back, and the FF01 shares the same chassis tub with the TA02, then the FF01 front gearbox will be a straight bolt on to TA01/02. It's been done before, some 5 years back or more, in this forum. Both motor rotate in the same direction. The TA03 is nothing more than the poor brainchild of TA02 + FF01. Actually there's more gear ratios to be obtained out of a twin motor TA01/02 than there is with a twin motor TA03.

I'm about to build an SX-4 using TA02 bits and tub, but now that I think of it, I might as well build a twin motor version.. just to clear up the misconceptions. It'll be 251mm wheelbase as well.

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