hellbelly 1 Posted October 7, 2002 Michael, that sound amazing! Does your mini turn okay!? Pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PandaBear 1 Posted October 7, 2002 Guys, if we're all still only talking about a stock-standard M03 (complete with its Mini wheels) running 20T pinion... you can further increase effective gearing by using sedan-size wheels. Just only need them on the fronts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aaronmihe(2) 0 Posted October 8, 2002 Yeah actually that's what I've done with my M-01 Mini - added a set of 65mm sedan wheels. They clear fine and should give it the top speed that I'm looking for (to take out my friends Modified Stadium Blitzer). If that doesn't work the GM V4-R is going in and a nice hot motor --- Casual user and abuser of a Genuine M-Chassis Mini, CEN GX1-EP, Bit Char-G, RadiCan, Mini-Z and 1:1 Clio Sport Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PandaBear 1 Posted October 8, 2002 And if that ain't enough... get a kit-stock 959/Celica chassis and whack a Mini shell on it!! M0x will never ever go as fast. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flyby 0 Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Michael, that sound amazing! Does your mini turn okay!? Pete id=quote>id=quote> yes , i'm sure i could make it even better if i spent more time tweaking it, but when your wizzing about for fun, there doesn't seem much point, i have hot wired my standard servo though , made loads of difference. so much more direct and precise. Michael in carrot country (Norfolk UK) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RETRO R/C 59 Posted October 9, 2002 LOLOL WILLY - not sure how to take that comment - all I can say is that if I know something for sure - then I will state the facts to best of my ability......if I dont know - I will genrally shut up - or put a theory forward. now that that is out of the way......... There are many things you can do to change the performance of cells. The best ones though are the basice : always store ni-cads with a resistor on them - taking it off the day before you charge, and when charging - never get the cells so hot that you cant hold them after a few seconds !! The simple tips are often the best !! Cheers Darryn Want more than Just Tamiya ?? Visit my page !! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1814 Posted October 9, 2002 quote: ...when charging - never get the cells so hot that you cant hold them after a few seconds !! id=quote>id=quote> oooh... which would mean burning the shrinkwrap off my FujiNovels (the 'must have' cell in 1986, after the Saft rage) was probably a bad idea... Ah well, chalk up another kiddy error. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hellbelly 1 Posted October 30, 2002 Thought I'd bring up another question about motors again [] I've just got a given a Trinity D3, now this is a 12x2, it's needs some soldering, once I've tidied it up, i will give it a go just for fun. I have 2 questions, what does altering the timing do on motors? And I take it it's meant to have capicitors - so what do I have to ask my local electrical shop for? Thanks guys! Pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DJTheo 2 Posted October 30, 2002 Altering timing means rotating the end bell in relation to the stator magnets so the magnetic field effects earlier or later... More timing increases rpm and torque but also current (consumption) and reduces life of the brushes and communator, like everything in life a compromise [] As usually there is a combination of 3 capacitors used in motors better get some special ones for a RC car motor or write down their values, am not sure in a electric shop they would know the optimal ones... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hellbelly 1 Posted October 30, 2002 Thanks for the info. Ta Pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1814 Posted October 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by hellbelly I take it it's meant to have capicitors - so what do I have to ask my local electrical shop for? id="quote">id="quote"> The motor capacitors are mainly needed to filter out errant radiowaves generated by the motor, to avoid radio glitching. I've been buying 100uF ones all along, rightly or wrongly I dunno. I don't think the value matters too much - if your radio glitches when the car is running then you might need higher numbers. (But check first that your motor is not all dirty and causing unnaturally big sparks at the comm - sparks are very RF dirty.) Buy only the green polyester 'blob' ones, don't buy anything Polarised (eg electrolytics which are labelled with +ve & -ve) as these will blow up when power is reversed. I use 3 per motor:- use 1 between each of the 2 motor terminals and the can (ground), then put the 3rd between the 2 motor terminals. Depending on your ESC, the ESC might also need a huge 'power' or 'smoothing' cap installed across the motor or battery (read the instructions). This is in ADDITION to the motor caps, do not confuse the 2. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1814 Posted October 30, 2002 Oh, and when soldering caps on... might be an idea to shrinkwrap their legs too. Reduce the risk of the naked legs shorting out against the motor's endbell/can etc - you'll definitely blow a FET if so. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Razer 0 Posted October 31, 2002 I don't think you need shrinkwrap, you're basically soldering then from the endbell to the can and from each side of the endbell to the other. But I would make the leads as short as possible for neater appearance. Also keeps them from getting caught on something and knocked off if a runner. [^] Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DJTheo 2 Posted October 31, 2002 You can use also non-polarized electrolytic capacitors, ie ones that don't have +- symbols Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DJTheo 2 Posted October 31, 2002 Higher capacity filters more noise but also works like a battery, that is makes the motor respond slower to accelerating or braking as the capacitor has first to be charged or discharged, like everything again a compromise [] Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c_a_r_t_e_r 0 Posted October 31, 2002 Hey People! I've been lurking in the shadows for a while, but finally got around to registering - this is my first post here, so hope it works OK! It's been a while since I was in the RC game, and I'm just getting back into it now - and things have changed a bit! I bought a 12 double the other day, which came with 2 caps, but I can't get the solder to take on the can.. any suggestions/tips?! Cheers, Tim. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stulec52 50 Posted October 31, 2002 Tim welcome to the board ! this is an easy fix. On a modified can (i.e. has 2 screw fixings holding the endbell on) there should be a tab under the screw head where you can solder onto, if not make one up. On a stock can what you do is take either a piece of emery cloth (or paper) or a small file and file the can a little at the top in the centre between the + and - connections. File down until you see bright silver (not deep, you are really just taking the paint off) then with your soldering iron, 'tin' that area so you can solder the capacitor direct to that can. problem solved ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c_a_r_t_e_r 0 Posted October 31, 2002 Cheers Stu! I thought there should be some kind of tab, but wasn't sure what was can and what was terminal...will investigate later to see which bit is insulated. I did file off a section of the paint on the top, and had a go at tinning it, so if this is the way to go, I probably just need to invest in some better solder! [] I couldn't resist taking it out and running it without caps, and it didn't seem too glitchy at close range... but the ESC was starting to jitter a bit at full throttle at a distance - I probably need new tx batteries though too! Tim Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1814 Posted October 31, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Razer I don't think you need shrinkwrap, you're basically soldering then from the endbell to the can and from each side of the endbell to the other. But I would make the leads as short as possible for neater appearance. Also keeps them from getting caught on something and knocked off if a runner. [^] id="quote">id="quote"> Simple case of better b safe than sorry. You've got a component that's about 5-8mm wide and its gotta span a width of about 25mm. Especially on the metal endbell 540s, its very easy to have the caps pushed against the bushing's metal housing. Next time you hit the gas, all you get is smoke from MSC/ESC and no go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1814 Posted October 31, 2002 quote: Originally posted by DJTheo Higher capacity filters more noise but also works like a battery, that is makes the motor respond slower to accelerating or braking as the capacitor has first to be charged or discharged, like everything again a compromise [] id="quote">id="quote"> Yup, that's when its connected to the *motor&, Theo. A bigger cap (eg 2000-3300uF) 'softens' the response. Conversely there are some ESCs that want it connected to the battery side. Changing these have less effect, but the difference is the reverse. Bigger cap gives more 'punch. EVERYONE:- also be careful on ESC's requirements... some "3-WIRE" style ESCs need a Diode across the motor. Novak sells these 'power' diodes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1814 Posted October 31, 2002 quote: Originally posted by DJTheo You can use also non-polarized electrolytic capacitors, ie ones that don't have +- symbols id="quote">id="quote"> Aren't these quite a bit dearer, Theo? Think they were last time I stocked up. More expensive than green polys. Good thing with 'lytics are you can buy them in axial config (wire coming out of each end, like a battery), which is handier for the +/- jump. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WillyChang 1814 Posted October 31, 2002 quote: Originally posted by c_a_r_t_e_r but I can't get the solder to take on the can.. any suggestions/tips?! id="quote">id="quote"> Tim:- you can also put an eyetag under one of 2 the motorcan screws. If you are heating the can, you'll need a pretty powerful iron - say 60-80W as a minimum. Otherwise the heatsinks will just dissipate the heat before it warms up enough to flow solder. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DJTheo 2 Posted November 1, 2002 quote:Aren't these quite a bit dearer, Theo? Think they were last time I stocked up. More expensive than green polys. id="quote">id="quote"> Of course, but we want the best for our beloved cars, don't we? [] Most people spend $$ on eloxated parts and titanium screws, so a couple of $ ain't the big problem, or is it? And you cannot find polys in very high capacities... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BalmyBaldwin 0 Posted November 1, 2002 If you have adjustable timimg, what happens if you reduce the timing to say -7 degrees? will this increase the runtime and reduce power? or will it just screw everything up?[}] Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Razer 0 Posted November 1, 2002 I don't know what it would do to runtime but it would reduce forward power, increase power in reverse, wear out comm and brushed faster. It other words, it will screw things up. As far as advancing the timing, you would only want to do it if not using reverse such as in racing. Alot of modifieds come from the factory advanced so I would just leave them as is. Also, if you don't have a dyno or something, I don't think you would really be able to tell how far to advance the timing to have a good effect anyway. There are so many options in motors today you should be able to get exactly what you want without changing the factory setup. I went off on a tangent, but I think I answered the question first.[] Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
