jberry3

Recommended Hop Ups For Ff01

Recommended Posts

Hi all finally decided to restore and re use my FF01 mondeo and was wondering which hop ups are recommended. Its currently ballraced and running the tuned springs. Any help appreciated.

Cheers, JB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1. TA02 speed tuned gear set (for the 69t spur gear)

2. 26T pinion gear, 0.6 module (HPI recently makes a 0.6Module one for their E10)

3. Super mini CVA shocks (less bottoming on the shock bodies)

4. FF01 heatsink set (Tamiya's own preferred here)

5. Racing spring set (Blue front, red rear)

6. A set of universal joint driveshaft (TA03 unit fits)

That'd be all the basic hop ups I'm recomending.. I run them in mine.

and for a bit more:

1. Eagle racing front lower arms mount and skid plate set

2. TA02/FF02 FRP chassis set (you can go with either Tamiya's or GPM's , GPM one is lighter)

3. TL01 rear uprights (brings rear toe in value to 0 overall, use 2mm spacers to set wheelbase)

4. TA01/TA02/FF01 Touring car hinge pin set (Top force's set also works)

5. Adjustable camber arms (Kit's stock setting generally good for most track)

6. TA02/FF01 front aluminium C hub (Go for tamiya, add another 2 degrees of caster.. GPM ones basically aluminium version of stock, no caster gain)

7. TA02/FF01/TA03 front steering knuckles (more of a beefing up issue, really)

8. Aluminium mheel hexes (again, beefing up)...

You can run up to 27T pinion with 66T spur gear in this car.. that'll give you 5.93:1 ratio..

You can widen the car as well with TA01 or TL01 front knuckles with appropriate axles and bearings, and TG10 long rear axle + wider hex out of the TL01 toe in rear upright set. That will allow you to run 0 offset 24mm wheels (where most good rubbers fits) while staying with 190mm bodies, otherwise 3mm offset wheels will push it to 200mm width.

Not to mention the long front arm mod I did last time, using parts out of CEN GX1/4 and TA04/05, The cen is basically a bettered TA02. This helps keep the front end planted, with the additional power. handles better too... once you sort out the suspension setup.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do people ever upgrade motors in these FWD cars?

Or is the stock 540 type motor already too much for the amount of traction those cars have?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Do people ever upgrade motors in these FWD cars?

Or is the stock 540 type motor already too much for the amount of traction those cars have?

FYI, I've ran 11x5 in mine, still very much nimble with the right set of tyres.. You do have to launch gently though...

lower turns is not impossible, seeing how wide the gear ratio selection is.. from 8.65:1 to 5.93:1

some even popped in a brushless...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The TA-01/2 69 tooth gear won't fit. It has a bevel gear on the side of it that won't fit in the gearbox. Besides, the FF comes with the 69 and 66 standard in the box.

As for motors, I raced one in the mid to late 90's, and collected 3 state championships with it (back in Tasmania), in our version of "Tamiya Class". Because of the size of the tracks we ran on, and well, speed, our class used 27t ROAR stocks. I ran a Midnight 2 for most of the time, on 25/66. There was a time I put a borrowed (thanks Brettles!) 14x2 Ozcharge hand wound in it, and ran in Modified... The performance shocked a few.

What mine had was:

Tamiya FF heatsink, Bearings, universal shafts, hardened out drives for ball diff, adjustable top links, HPI chassis (old mod part form way back) and Tamiya red springs out back, and Serpent Greens up front, with 6mm of spacers in the front shocks. Tyre of choice for me was Yokomo YF 080 and 081's - This was before Take Off and Sorex were out.

I always used a Civic body, they suited the handling great (for me). I had a short stint with Alfa 155's and Honda Integra's, but went back to the Civic.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The TA-01/2 69 tooth gear won't fit. It has a bevel gear on the side of it that won't fit in the gearbox. Besides, the FF comes with the 69 and 66 standard in the box.

As for motors, I raced one in the mid to late 90's, and collected 3 state championships with it (back in Tasmania), in our version of "Tamiya Class". Because of the size of the tracks we ran on, and well, speed, our class used 27t ROAR stocks. I ran a Midnight 2 for most of the time, on 25/66. There was a time I put a borrowed (thanks Brettles!) 14x2 Ozcharge hand wound in it, and ran in Modified... The performance shocked a few.

What mine had was:

Tamiya FF heatsink, Bearings, universal shafts, hardened out drives for ball diff, adjustable top links, HPI chassis (old mod part form way back) and Tamiya red springs out back, and Serpent Greens up front, with 6mm of spacers in the front shocks. Tyre of choice for me was Yokomo YF 080 and 081's - This was before Take Off and Sorex were out.

I always used a Civic body, they suited the handling great (for me). I had a short stint with Alfa 155's and Honda Integra's, but went back to the Civic.

TA01/02 spur gear will fit, I've tried it on, and ran the car with it as well. The bevel doesn't interfere with the gear case at all. FF01 comes with 71 and 66 tooths spur gears (I can scan the manual if u like....). At first I was skeptical as well, but trying it on and running it later disproved my skepticism.

I've ran mine with DC5 and 156 body, not too bad, and I've set mine up to be very aggressive in the corners as well, as aggressive as an AWD could, in general.

19T spec class, from dead last to mid-pack among AWDs, the only FWD competing..

The rear end can use yellow spring no problem with the rear toe set to 0, and 3 hole pistons.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yellow springs are medium?

Has anyone found a DC2R body for the FF chassis?

I'm surprised to hear that people upgraded motors in their cars.

So in a drag race the hot motor would win, or would it only win once the stock motor reach top speed while the hot motor could still accelerate?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yellow springs are medium?

Has anyone found a DC2R body for the FF chassis?

I'm surprised to hear that people upgraded motors in their cars.

So in a drag race the hot motor would win, or would it only win once the stock motor reach top speed while the hot motor could still accelerate?

Yellows are medium, yup.

HPI did a DC2R (JDM nose), and so did Frewer racing (USDM nose).. Frewer one looks more scale.. HPI got the wheel arch too wide, n the body looks as if it was hit by a brick from atop.

Well, I find it hardly surprising, especially looking at how broad you can go with the gear ratios.. you can throw on just about any motor on it. It may be an outdated design, but by all means it's still fairly competitive, and offers more gearing flexibility than any of the 'Fun' chassis tamiya offered these days.. And they at least come with at least 1 ball diff.. By they, I meant TA01/02 and FF01.

huh? mind re-phrasing that? I'm not getting what u said 100%.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@ irenL

You're correct. It's been a few years now since I played with one.... and it's got a 66T - :) Faster, faster.... B)

I never even tried the "big" gear... With my "home" track having a 80m straight... I must have a few mint 71T's rolling around!.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I often consider buying a FF01 to have something scale with a Civic or Integra body

But the thing that puts me off is:

Will I just get sick and tired of FWD handling in a RC car?

I don't know how much they cost but I can get a Pajero for $170 or so and it seems I might enjoy that more (considering I have a TGX and TB-01 already as road cars)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@ Spetz83

When in doubt, just give it a try. Worse come to worse if you don't like it then I'll take it away :)

Some people like it, but others don't like it, perhaps because they're not used to the wandering rear end (stock setting is toe-out in rear)..

The last time I shop for a used FF01, I think I paid somewhere north of $100 or $120.. Complete with original civic body, and already ball-raced.

And looking at the rather outrageous price of NIB kits are (being that these FF are kind of special somehow... Kyosho started it for off-road with their maxxum/maxxim buggy; Tamiya started it for on-road FWD, then Yokomo follow suit.), I'd enter early if I were u.. The last assembled 750 I saw on ebay scored $150ish I think..

The Calsonic Primera and JACCS Accord will simply cost more since they come with hop-ups out of the box.

Regardless of how dangerous it might seem to have the motor hanging off the front of the chassis, the weakest point would still be where the gearbox mount to the chassis.. The same story with any TA01/02.

And I pretty much nearly killed what's supposed to stay on the shelf... an FF01 against chassises 10-12 years newer..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry for the thread revival but i was searching for ff01 hop up and came across this thread and someone mentioned super mini cva shocks for the chassis.if i buy some do i use my own shock rod from the kit shocks or use the rods that come with the super minis?

and is this a big upgrade?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now