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Limerick91

Losi Xcelorin

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Ok, first of all does anyone know if you can delete a thread that you've posted because i don't want to clog up the forum =/

Ok, now onto what i wanted to know, the "Losi 1/10 Xcelorin S 3.5t brushless Combo" 115 from my local hobby shop.

Pro's, con's? is that brushless set-up good? Is it for only Losi cars or can it be used in any car (TA-05?)

Please reply, will be appreciated, Thanks :lol:

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Yup you can use it with any car (within reason, I'd never run a 3.5 with a TT01 for example... :)), it'll be really quick (think around 40-45mph when geared properly!).

Pro's

No maintenance apart from oiling bearings

Very smooth function

More efficient = more drivetime

Con's

Bigger accidents

More critical to have a good chassis setup for handling

Can be overpowered for most drivers

Losi Xcelorin isn't waterproof

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115 from my local hobby shop.

Where's that then?! That seems cheap for a decent set-up. These things are comparable to Traxxas VXL systems (so I've heard)

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Yup you can use it with any car (within reason, I'd never run a 3.5 with a TT01 for example... :)), it'll be really quick (think around 40-45mph when geared properly!).

Pro's

No maintenance apart from oiling bearings

Very smooth function

More efficient = more drivetime

Con's

Bigger accidents

More critical to have a good chassis setup for handling

Can be overpowered for most drivers

Losi Xcelorin isn't waterproof

Oh right, i was hoping you can use it in any car so thats good :D, ive got a TA-05 2 belt drive chassis so do you think that would be tough enough to run it in? Also, would i need a different diff pulley as apposed to the plastic one i've got now?

Also, there are many turn's avalible (3.5, 4.5 up to 17.5) What are the difference in these, is it just the same as brushed where 3.5T is the fastest but some people prefer not to go as fast so will buy the 10.5 or something?

And finally (takes a breath), what gearing would you recommend, ive got a 22/70 at the moment with a 15x2T brushed.

Any answers will be GREATLY appreciated as i am very keen to buy one :)

Thanks very much.

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Where's that then?! That seems cheap for a decent set-up. These things are comparable to Traxxas VXL systems (so I've heard)

It's from a place called DMS Racing in Watford, just outside London.

www.dms-racing.com

They deliver, i think and have thousands of products online.

114.95 for the Losi Xcelorin S brushless set-ups which i think is very good value :)

Happy shopping.

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Oh right, i was hoping you can use it in any car so thats good :), ive got a TA-05 2 belt drive chassis so do you think that would be tough enough to run it in? Also, would i need a different diff pulley as apposed to the plastic one i've got now?

As long as the diffs are set right and don't slip on full acceleration, it should be fine.

Also, there are many turn's avalible (3.5, 4.5 up to 17.5) What are the difference in these, is it just the same as brushed where 3.5T is the fastest but some people prefer not to go as fast so will buy the 10.5 or something?

Basic rule of thumb with brushless motor turns is to multiply the motor by 2 to get the approx brushed version. So a 3.5 x 2 would be a 7t brushed. However, brushess motors are a LOT more torquey than brushed and can pull a much higher gear ratio, so you can gear them up and have more top-end speed than the with the same turn brushed. I have a 13.5 brushless, and its a fair bit quicker on an indoor track than with a brushed 27t. :) But yup, lower numbers = faster motor.

And finally (takes a breath), what gearing would you recommend, ive got a 22/70 at the moment with a 15x2T brushed.

It depends where you're using it (will you be racing or carpark driving?) If you can pick up a bunch of pinions and experiement on the ratio it'd help, everyone tends to gear brushless's to motor temperature i.e being able to touch the motor for 10secs after a 5 minute race. Do you know which version of the TA05 it is? Or what the internal ratio of the car is? I'd suspect you'll need smaller pinions unless you've got a big space to run in. :D

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As long as the diffs are set right and don't slip on full acceleration, it should be fine.

Basic rule of thumb with brushless motor turns is to multiply the motor by 2 to get the approx brushed version. So a 3.5 x 2 would be a 7t brushed. However, brushess motors are a LOT more torquey than brushed and can pull a much higher gear ratio, so you can gear them up and have more top-end speed than the with the same turn brushed. I have a 13.5 brushless, and its a fair bit quicker on an indoor track than with a brushed 27t. :D But yup, lower numbers = faster motor.

It depends where you're using it (will you be racing or carpark driving?) If you can pick up a bunch of pinions and experiement on the ratio it'd help, everyone tends to gear brushless's to motor temperature i.e being able to touch the motor for 10secs after a 5 minute race. Do you know which version of the TA05 it is? Or what the internal ratio of the car is? I'd suspect you'll need smaller pinions unless you've got a big space to run in. :)

Thanks for replying, Well the track is carpet and is quite small so acceleration would be key, however i take it outside a lot, more than i race it, where i like to tear around everywhere :) So, getting maybe a small pinion (14-18 tooth) aswell as a bigger one (24-30 tooth) would be alright if i switched them depending on where and how im going to run them?

Thanks.

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Anyone else got an info on these Losi Xcelorin S brushless combo's, im probably going to buy one tomorrow so i really need to know if im spending my 115 wisely, so far i've heard nothing but good news about brushless, i've told my dad (bad idea) that im probably going to buy one and he was skeptical as to whether the 115 would end up cheaper in the long run, is this true?

Any info at all please B)

Thanks.

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Thanks for replying, Well the track is carpet and is quite small so acceleration would be key, however i take it outside a lot, more than i race it, where i like to tear around everywhere ;) So, getting maybe a small pinion (14-18 tooth) aswell as a bigger one (24-30 tooth) would be alright if i switched them depending on where and how im going to run them?

Thanks.

Yup, just remember to gear it to temperature whether you're running indoors or out and it'll be fine.

Anyone else got an info on these Losi Xcelorin S brushless combo's, im probably going to buy one tomorrow so i really need to know if im spending my 115 wisely, so far i've heard nothing but good news about brushless, i've told my dad (bad idea) that im probably going to buy one and he was skeptical as to whether the 115 would end up cheaper in the long run, is this true?

Any info at all please B)

Thanks.

Cheaper, yes, just oil the bearings once every few months and it'll be the only maintenance you need to do. :P

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To get the most from a brushless motor in a racing environment with a touring car its useful to understand a couple of things:

1) FDR. You need to understand how to calculate FDR. This is spur/pinion * IDR = FDR. Internal Drive Ration and Final Drive Ratio.

2) Manufacturers publish 2 figures. Max temp and Lowest FDR.

3) You will need to buy or borrow thermometer that can take temps remotely i.e. an Infrared thermometers you can pick them up off ebay for about 10

My rule of thumb is don't exceed the max temp your manufacturer sets for the motor for Novak this is 72-77 deg C (160-170 deg F)- I would not hold this for 10 secs :ph34r: Ignore the min FDR again for Novak its something like 5 whereas many many people including myself run these as low as if not lower than 4.

Basically for your track run the car for 5 mins and measure the temp if its way to low lower your FDR you will come to a point where the temp suddenly rises you have hit its sweet spot, maybe roll back to a higher FDR. Now look at how your car is driving and if necessary go to an even higher FDR, sometimes the optimum temp does not suit the track, but be wary of going over the recommended temps, I have heard of people running to 200 deg F but they are sponsored and dont care if it goes bang.

As for cheaper, work out how many times you need to re-build the motor, change the brushes/springs and skim the comm then stop waisting your time doing the maths and go and buy brushless :)

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As for cheaper, work out how many times you need to re-build the motor, change the brushes/springs and skim the comm then stop waisting your time doing the maths and go and buy brushless :ph34r:

LOL! Brushless in touring cars really is the way forward...

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As for cheaper, work out how many times you need to re-build the motor, change the brushes/springs and skim the comm then stop waisting your time doing the maths and go and buy brushless :ph34r:

Lol! good way to put it :) Everyones saying buy it, its getting my dad to let me which is the problem...

Thanks for replying :)

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Yup, just remember to gear it to temperature whether you're running indoors or out and it'll be fine.

Cheaper, yes, just oil the bearings once every few months and it'll be the only maintenance you need to do. :)

Ah right, im going to go down to the hobby shop now and buy a new pinion, hopefully that will reduce the temp a bit.

Thanks for replying, helps a lot :ph34r:

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Ah right, im going to go down to the hobby shop now and buy a new pinion, hopefully that will reduce the temp a bit.

Thanks for replying, helps a lot :ph34r:

Make sure you pick the proper ones - Tamiya uses metric pitch for the TA05 spurs as opposed to "standard" pitch.

Tell your LHS. if they look at you with wide open eyes, change LHS :)

Paul

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Just be aware that 3.5T is as fast as they come. This means serious power that might not be all that much fun...

My friend put a Novak Velociti 3.5R system in his Kyosho Lazer ZX5 and thing is pretty much only good for speed runs. In the dirt, you can't seem to touch the throttle light enough before the car simply blasts off in straight line at what feels like 100mph. It also eats batteries like it's a fat kid with a box a twinkies. He's ruined a couple Duratrax DTX batteries due to overheating just from the amount of amps pulled by this motor. This means you need some serious batteries to keep up with the massive current. I would say go lipo, but that's a whole other bag of worms (& cash). I guess my point is keep an eye on the battery temp as well...

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It also eats batteries like it's a fat kid with a box a twinkies.

LOLOL!!! Very funny but true, ive got 4 3300maH ni-mh batteries atm, ill probably get bigger and better batteries when i do get this brushless combo. Im not really tempted into going Li-po though, ive heard and seen that if you overcharge them they burst into flames, me, being a forgetful person would probably forget to take them off charge and burn down my house. So maybe not for another 6 months or so but eventually i think ill go with Li-po's. As for them being too fast, ive got massive open spaces around my area (a big industrial estate), which if i were to run it with some speed i would probably bring it there and there is a minimal chance i will hit something. I'll probably prove myself wrong as plough it into a car or something but until then ill still consider the 3.5T :)

Thanks for the info, it all helps :ph34r:

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