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28yoKid

Monster Beetle Resto Project Help Please!

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Hi all

Picked up my ebay winnings this evening. Seller described as good condition...I guess everything is context right? :angry:

Not as good as I'd hoped, but I now have a starting point. Here it is in uncleaned form:

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The giblets:

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Driving home with the MB on my passenger seat I couldn't help noticing how charming and characterful the MB is. A purchase I will not regret. :(

Good points are that the chassis is in gd condition with very few scuffs/scrapes. Even better is that the thing works! I listened out for crunching g/box sounds but nothing.

Areas that I will need to restore are:

1. Shell has bad paint job and cracked windscreen. Do I leave to soak in brake fluid to strip the shell?? I am sure I read that somewhere -Jozza??? Need to get some decals.

2. Need 1 new front wheel (came with 3 new ones)

3. Cracked housing for screw that holds shock brace, 'H1' I think:

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4. Lower wishbone for front shock is broken and needs replacing, 'H2'

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That's the main stuff I can see. If anyone has any advice on sourcing or repairs then I would love to hear it!!! :angry:

Cheers

28YoK

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Id give my right arm for 1 of those :wub:

Thanks Spence, well I still owe you a shock...! Lots on ebay all the time, I guess it depends on how much u r willing to spend. I paid 95 for my NIB Fire Dragon, so I guess 68 for a Monster Beetle is a relative bargain! :blink: Or something like that!

Anyway, I have decided to post some shots of the resto so far...

Today was spent stripping and cleaning the MB, changing the MSC for a ESC, the MSC works perfect, but I had a ESC going spare, and I fancy adding a ST540 at some point.

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Unfortunately 3 of the tires tore on removal, luckily I can donate from my Wild Dagger resto.

Found more broken bits...'K8' from the front Left shaft knuckle

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And 'E6' that holds the rear bumper to the gearbox

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In the meantime I can always use the "Thunder Beetle"!

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If anyone has a K8 or E6 or a front wheel they want to sell or swap for the MSC, servo and metal servo support, please contact me.

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Also I now need some grease before I can rebuild. Off to Halfords tomorrow!

Cheers,

28 YOK

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Hi mate, looks like you got a good bargain, seems a very good basis for a resto.

Apart from replacing broken parts, its amazing what a difference a good strip down and clean will make.

(Little tip - check the rear trailing arms, where the shocks connect. The screw holes on mine cracked recently, so i repaired them with meccano!)

Keep us up-to-date of the progress....

Kind Regards

KingPin

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Hi mate, looks like you got a good bargain, seems a very good basis for a resto.

Apart from replacing broken parts, its amazing what a difference a good strip down and clean will make.

(Little tip - check the rear trailing arms, where the shocks connect. The screw holes on mine cracked recently, so i repaired them with meccano!)

Keep us up-to-date of the progress....

Kind Regards

KingPin

Thanks for the tip Kingpin...Meccano on standby!

Will keep you updated, just ordered 60g ceramic grease for the gearbox rebuild, 5.39 incl delivery from a bike shop! :blink:

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Fitted my H1 part, which came in the post today, so only 2 pieces needed to complete! Got some good advice from Jozza; I asked him about using brake fluid to strip the shell. He suggested using some wet/dry paper.

Well, I guess you can't beat good old fingers for speed and mess...! Heres the MB shell now:

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Found a few cracks which will need to be super-glued. I have ordered some new 'glass' as the old one was cracked on the windscreen. Also ordered some decals from Tamiyaclub.com.

Does anyone know what exact colour paint the body is? Also I want to paint the window surrounds black with silver on the front side windows. How do I best do this?? All things being good I should be primering this weekend...

28 Yok :blink:

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Tamiya 101 list the body color as TS8 Italian Red.

Thanks Saito! Italian Red it is!

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OK guys, hope u r all having a fun Halloween?!

Body is now sanded, cracks and sticking up bits (that shouldn't be sticking up) have been super-glued, body has been sanded again, and plastic primer added:

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Ready for that Italian Red...

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wow thats a nice monster beetle you have there. Price sounds quite reasonable aswell. I got my monster beetle for 35 plus 8 i think for postage. I was missing the shell, front and rear bumpers, shell mounts and the front shock tower had a small crack in. Managed to get the shock tower front and rear bumpers and part of the rear body mounts for 15 all in so it has cost me about 60. In the end I was given a mint lexan brat shell so I just adaped a carbon fiber shcok tower from a shumacher sst to fit on the rear bumper so mount the body on to that. I will post some pictures soon. Selling the rear body mounts(just the mounts not the part that goes in to the chassis) if anyone needs them.

dazaa

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Update, raining all day today so spent the time rebuilding the stripped MB. Had some fun and games with the motor not turning the axles! Took the gearbox apart then realised the pinion was not making contact with the spur!!!! ;):P I can laugh now..!

Kingpin -you were right about the rear shock connectors, both were cracked. I have used superglue, which seems OK. I will only replace them when they fail completely.

The rear shocks had the chunkiest springs ever! I have replaced them with some softer ones off my Pumpkin spares; I am hoping to keep the Beetles rear ON the ground!

The 'possessed' ESC of my Pumpkin is still playing up (ran through too many puddles). Jonny Retro advised running it under a cold tap then letting it dry for a few weeks. Have done so, we will see...! So here's the pics to date:

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Chassis now clean!

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Taking shape now. Has anyone got a spare new MB Front wheel???

Cheers

28Yok

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...

The 'possessed' ESC of my Pumpkin is still playing up (ran through too many puddles). Jonny Retro advised running it under a cold tap then letting it dry for a few weeks. Have done so, we will see...! ...

If I was quite so casual about it, I didn't mean to be - I _don't_ mean just give it quick run under the tap & sling it to one side ...

The idea of the cold water is to flush out as many nasties as possible - tap water being a lot cleaner than your average puddle, deionised water would be better still. Take of the case if possible before flushing, and dab/blow off as much water as possible afterwards. Leave it somewhere warm & dry for a week, like your airing cupboard.

This only applies if it's still wet inside - if it's dry but crusty, you'd be better off with switch contact cleaner, isopropanol, or even WD40 at a push.

I've "rescued" soaked recievers (that were twitching and whistling) like this, good luck with your ESC ;)

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Thanks Jonny. If that doesn't work I'm gonna get some holy water and perform an exorcism. ;)

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wow thats a nice monster beetle you have there. Price sounds quite reasonable aswell. I got my monster beetle for 35 plus 8 i think for postage. I was missing the shell, front and rear bumpers, shell mounts and the front shock tower had a small crack in. Managed to get the shock tower front and rear bumpers and part of the rear body mounts for 15 all in so it has cost me about 60. In the end I was given a mint lexan brat shell so I just adaped a carbon fiber shcok tower from a shumacher sst to fit on the rear bumper so mount the body on to that. I will post some pictures soon. Selling the rear body mounts(just the mounts not the part that goes in to the chassis) if anyone needs them.

dazaa

Thanks Dazaa. Please post some pics I would love to see it.

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Thanks Dazaa. Please post some pics I would love to see it.

I will try and get some pictures dont tommorow. I havnt driven any of my cars for afew months now and after a quick inspection of the monster beetle it seems if i turn one of the back wheels the other dosnt turn in the other direction, has my diff died on me? Or is it meant to be like this? I think I will try oldfrogshots screw mod anyway as I dont really want to buy to many new bits for this. Perhaps I could find some ujs that fit to solve the problem with the rear axels. As for the trailing arms, Even when they break again(its not IF, more like WHEN) dont replace them, all i did was break the little peice off totally, file out the thread inside so a normal machine screw(the thickness of motor screws)will drop straight through(well not straight through, the head of screw shouldnt go through) then glue the piece back on. Then just use the machine screw with a nut on the end to mount the shocker. Also as mentioned before you can strengthen it with meccanno. I used meccanno to support the front shock tower, need to put it back on as it makes a small but noticable difference in the front suspension.

Any questions please ask.

dazaa

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Even when they break again(its not IF, more like WHEN) dont replace them, all i did was break the little peice off totally, file out the thread inside so a normal machine screw(the thickness of motor screws)will drop straight through(well not straight through, the head of screw shouldnt go through) then glue the piece back on. Then just use the machine screw with a nut on the end to mount the shocker. Also as mentioned before you can strengthen it with meccanno. I used meccanno to support the front shock tower, need to put it back on as it makes a small but noticable difference in the front suspension.

dazaa

Dazaa, could you post some pics of your trailing arm mod?? May need this one day! ;)

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Hi there . Nice project .There are many points on the space frame chassis (as these are known) that have parts fitted on with self tapping screws and some of the major ones can weaken / loosen and damage the threads in the plastic ie - on the body / shock mounts on the MB .I had this problem on my MB + M Blaster ,the rear body post uprights that bolt to the chassis kept loosening off as the threads in the chassis plastic were useless and worn , so i drilled them through and used 3mm machine thread bolts and nyloc nuts - problem solved .The same can be done for shock mounts if they are not mashed .I also fitted a CRP chassis brace to take out some of the stress from the chassis points.New tyres are still available from the BF xtreme :) .BTW ,the window frames are best painted with a paint pen of the correct size ,a good one will flow well and you can follow the frame like a pen- practice makes perfect (like lettering on tyres) and its easier and quicker than masking and painting ( for me anyway)

post-6741-1225745016.jpg

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Hi there . Nice project .There are many points on the space frame chassis (as these are known) that have parts fitted on with self tapping screws and some of the major ones can weaken / loosen and damage the threads in the plastic ie - on the body / shock mounts on the MB .I had this problem on my MB + M Blaster ,the rear body post uprights that bolt to the chassis kept loosening off as the threads in the chassis plastic were useless and worn , so i drilled them through and used 3mm machine thread bolts and nyloc nuts - problem solved .The same can be done for shock mounts if they are not mashed .I also fitted a CRP chassis brace to take out some of the stress from the chassis points.New tyres are still available from the BF xtreme :P .BTW ,the window frames are best painted with a paint pen of the correct size ,a good one will flow well and you can follow the frame like a pen- practice makes perfect (like lettering on tyres) and its easier and quicker than masking and painting ( for me anyway)

How do you find the chassis brace?? Can you show me a pic of the machine thread bolt mod you described above? Should be painting the MB soon, do you know where I can get a paint pen from?? Have been getting side-tracked by my Wild Dagger resto!! ;)

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How do you find the chassis brace?? Can you show me a pic of the machine thread bolt mod you described above? Should be painting the MB soon, do you know where I can get a paint pen from?? Have been getting side-tracked by my Wild Dagger resto!! ;)

I will need to get the chassis out of storage and get a pic of it . The paint pens can be bought from stationers ,or Hobbycraft as I did , you can buy black ,silver ,white etc ,CRP brace has been covered by BJ

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I will need to get the chassis out of storage and get a pic of it . The paint pens can be bought from stationers ,or Hobbycraft as I did , you can buy black ,silver ,white etc ,CRP brace has been covered by BJ

Cheers BJ and Kev!

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Been busy working on the resto today. I have to say that it is now looking quite lovely, new even! :blink: The decals arrived a couple of days ago and I hadn't got round to ordering the paint (TS8). As I am really impatient I went to Halfords and got the closest match I could find: Daewoo Super Red. A bit of a risk, but I am very happy with the result.

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The quality if the decals is very good, film is thicker than stock. The adhesive under the clear film is very transparent and shows less of a white outline around decals than my experience with stock decals.

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Still got to do the silver and black around the windows. I have now lacquered the body too. Pics to follow nxt time.

Ps, anyone got a sunroof???

28yok

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