M03 Or M03r

[ciadelta16 0]

My local club (Maritime Racing in Kent)has recently started racing Tamiya and Mardave 1/12 Mini classes. I used to race an M03 Mini when new but sold it. I am looking at buying a new M03 (RWD M02 and 4 are not allowed). My question is this:- Is the M03R a better proposition than the M03?? I looked at the M03R chassis and it is about twenty to thirty quid dearer and I am not sure it is worth the extra money. Has anyone had any experience with Mini Racing and can help make this decision easier for me!! There is a LE blue M03R on ebay for about eighty quid or about fifty for a standard M03.

Thanks

[B.M.T. 127]

I have a M-03R, and I think it's good value. For your extra 30 squid, you get:

*Bearings

*Short CVA dampers with a selection of springs

*Alloy knuckles, rear toe blocks, servo blocks

*Motor heatsink

*Swaybars

*Quick release battery holders

*20 t pinion (instead of the 16t)

Bits you will still need to buy to complete it as a racer

-Ball diff

-Decent tyres

Bits you miss out on

-Body

-Motor

Do note, the Tamiya toe in blocks shorten the wheelbase, so, if you did what I did and bought a Rover Mini body, you will find 60D tyrs rub constantly on the front of the rear flare. However, if you use the included M-03M chassis extenders, and a Swift or BMW Mini it's not a problem.

Or, do what I did and order a Chevron Monster Mini shell

Be careful, some people sell those blue chassis as a chassis only (nothing else) for the same price as a kit. Make sure you are not just buying the frame!.

Also, the M-03 chassis flexes a lot, and the chrome will blister and flake. They don't stay pristine if you drive them.

But still, they are a good little car.

[irenL 0]

If I were to pick among the M03 box stock kits, I'd pick the M03M given that it comes with the toe-in rear upright stock.

Then you'll need to add in the full ball bearings, and super mini CVA dampers.

I've been told the LE's blue-chrome doesn't flake as easily as the plain chrome.

Further, with the R version, you get the M and L extensions.

[ryanbored 3]

I've been told the LE's blue-chrome doesn't flake as easily as the plain chrome.

It does!

Go for the M- It's less grief, cos you'll end up buying the parts anyways. Or get the M-03M [swift]. Personally I think you'll struggle to notice a difference in lap times between all the M-03's, hop-ups or not.

[WillyChang 1814]

you'd want the new alloy TRF mini shocks too... CVAs are soooooo yesterday

[ciadelta16 0]

I also have a FF02 with every uopgrade availalbe for it which i have had for years and years!!! Could i just take the extension section out of this and run it as a Mini?? I know a few thing are different but pretty much identical?

[Origineelreclamebord 45]

I also have a FF02 with every uopgrade availalbe for it which i have had for years and years!!! Could i just take the extension section out of this and run it as a Mini?? I know a few thing are different but pretty much identical?

For that you'll also need shorter suspension arms and drive shafts, but I think besides that would be pretty much it... maybe gear ratio but that should be it...

[tony gray 0]

B.M.T. you're a little bit out with some of what you said there...

The 03R does NOT come with

Swaybars, or Quick Release Battery Holders. And the 20T pinion is actually standard on ALL M03 kits.

And the shocks that the 03R comes with are transparent blue. One decent hit and they SHATTER. (ref attachment)

So, ciadelta, I'd read THIS for what we reckon is the best deal on buying a new race M03...

[B.M.T. 127]

Well, I must of forgot what I bought extra for mine... Sorry about that.

[irenL 0]

I also have a FF02 with every uopgrade availalbe for it which i have had for years and years!!! Could i just take the extension section out of this and run it as a Mini?? I know a few thing are different but pretty much identical?

arms, driveshafts, and tyres rolling diameter.

But really, about the only mods needed to make an M03 reliable (IMO) are: bearings, alloy front knuckles (the older version for the better C-hub), Toe-in rear uprights (TL01 bin), oil shockers, and most importantly, the aluminium servo stands -saves you adjusting the steering trim after every single "friendly" tap with the other cars.