Super Clod Buster

[steve r]

The Super Clod Buster i bought from ebay has arrived. Seems pretty good and was painted/decaled well. Its got a few chips to paint but i'm not bothered too much as i plan to run it so i'm sure i'll put a few more on it.

So far i have given it a few runs around the garden, firstly as it came with stock shocks and MSC. I've now swapped to CVA's to remove some of the bounce. I used the stock springs but i don't think these are stiff enough when there are only 4 so i'll try some King Cab rears that i have spare. I've also fitted an ESC. It's quicker that i expected but i'm still going to look at different motors for a little bit more speed. My ESC should handle a pair of 23 turn motors ok, any recommendations?

The steering seems to be more rear wheel steer than 4WS when driving and the wheels won't steer when the truck is stationary. Is this common and can it be adjusted out by playing with the steering arms/servo savers or will i need a stronger steering servo? A Futaba S3003 is currently fitted, any recommendations for a stronger one? Or would i be better going for axle mounted servos?

Whats involed in running 2 axle mounted servos to keep the 4WS rather than locking out the rear? Is it just a case of making/buying a Y lead to connect the 2 servos or will a different receiver be needed?

I'm going to strip it down, clean and check it for damage and fit bearings if none are fitted. I'll also add an alu anti rotation mount.

I also plan to make some suspension lift kit brackets similar to the ESP ones and look into increasing the suspension articulation but keeping the plastic chassis similar to thisCLICK or post 20 HERE

[backtomyroots]

The Super Clod Buster i bought from ebay has arrived.

The steering seems to be more rear wheel steer than 4WS when driving and the wheels won't steer when the truck is stationary. Is this common and can it be adjusted out by playing with the steering arms/servo savers or will i need a stronger steering servo? A Futaba S3003 is currently fitted, any recommendations for a stronger one? Or would i be better going for axle mounted servos?

Whats involed in running 2 axle mounted servos to keep the 4WS rather than locking out the rear? Is it just a case of making/buying a Y lead to connect the 2 servos or will a different receiver be needed?

Congratulations ! The steering issues you have mentioned are common with the Clod. I would simply mount a high torque servo on the front axle with one of the many available kits such as this:

http://www.rcguy.com/category-s/46.htm Many others are widely available form different manufacturers at different price ranges as well.

You can buy two if you really want rear steer and yes, you can use a Y-Lead for the rear servo but you'll have to get a "reverse polarity" one or flip the rear servo. Then ditch all the stock steering hardware.

I'd also go with an OFNA High Torque Servo Saver or a Kimborough one.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXFNE8&P=7

[skip665]

Very nice - I notice you are missing one spotlight on the roof too - a common Super Clod trait!

I miss looking at mine but it was just too big for the space I have indoors

[adam1973]

Have a look at this one further down the forums page...; http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...st&p=296745

[steve r]

Thanks

A few more mods today.

I read on the RCMT forum a cheap and neat way of locking out the rear steering using repair washers. I thought i'd try this way first to see if i liked the way the truck handles with just front steering before considering buying a propper kit.

You need 2 washers 1.5" diameter with a 0.5" diameter hole. Its important to check the thicknesses as they can vary. I found a pair that are 1.7mm and used those. You remove all the original rear steering arms and fit the washers between the upright and steering knuckle to lock it. There is no movement at all with these washers fitted.

Next up was to look at the front to try to get some more travel out of the suspension to match the extra travel now at the rear. I noticed that the steering arm/servo saver hits the underside of the chassis well before the shocks are near their full travel. The arm from the servo normally mounts to the top of the servo saver and the top point on the servo horn. I re-located the ball connector to the underside of the servo saver arm and the steering arm to the lower point on the servo horn. This allows the front suspension much more travel before the servo saver touches the chassis.

I have an ESP lift kit on order which should allow full travel of the shocks without the need to cut away the chassis. I've also ordered an Ofna heavy duty servo saver, when thats fitted i'll remove the spring and lock out the standard servo saver. Hopefully this setup will be ok, if not i'll go for the axle/front mounted servo.

[backtomyroots]

Excellent modifications at a budget price ! The lift kit should help a bit ~ definitely wil watch this thread. Good work !

[CR-01nut]

looks like a very nice find. how much would a bad condition one for restoring be?

[steve r]

Thanks,

Not sure on bad condition ones, be careful as parts can be expensive once you add postage etc. I paid 95 for this on ebay with radio gear inc transmitter, box, instructions, and although i haven't stripped it yet it appears to be ballraced, so don't pay more than that. The kit alone is around 150 new.

I was going to make a lift kit but found an ESP one for 7 so its not worth my time/effort in making one for that price.

In keeping with the budget project ideal i've ordered some venom 21 turn motors to try @ 14 each as they have adjustable timing. Splashed out a little on a Hitec 645 servo and Ofna Servo Saver but i think its worth the investment.

Total so far is 170 which i think is OK, but i did already have the ESC and CVA shocks.

[terry.sc]

looks like a very nice find. how much would a bad condition one for restoring be?

I use bad condition Clods just for the gearboxes, so not much interested in the overall condition. They usually sell for around 50 on ebay, but would turn out quite expensive if you wanted to restore one.

I paid 50 for this fine example just for the gearboxes, the rest of it isn't worth much at all

and after a lot more money it now looks like this

[steve r]

Small update:

With the rear steering locked i couldn't get enough lock to use the truck in my rear garden so went back to the 4WS. The standard steering rods flex quite easily and i bent one. The Black F parts from the Chrome edition arrived eariler in the week giving me the ballends so i decided to make so aluminium steering rods:

Aluminium rod roughly cut to size:

Turned in my lathe:

6 steering rods the length specified in the manual:

Drill and 3mm tap the ends:

Complete ready to fit:

I'm about half way through making some 4 Bar links, hopefully get those done soon to increase the suspension travel.

[FoxMcCloud]

cool Super Clod Buster. My question has to do with ur King Cab. i dug my dads out and fixed the steering but now the motor slips and the truck does not move. do u know how to fix it

[steve r]

cool Super Clod Buster. My question has to do with ur King Cab. i dug my dads out and fixed the steering but now the motor slips and the truck does not move. do u know how to fix it

Thanks, it more than likely going to be the diff in your king cab. Take it out, strip it down, clean it, check for wear, if ok rebuild as per the manual with the correct grease. If it doesn't work you may get away with adding more shims or you will need to buy a rebuild kit.

[steve r]

I fitted some Crawford axle stiffeners and my alu steering arms today along with the Chrome Edition black bumpers.

4 bar links still to finish

[highflyer]

Fantastic looking project , keep up the good work.