Do I Need Baldre Hopups

[bonkett]

Hi everyone, santa is bringing me a db01 Baldre. I have an ezrun 9t sysrem waiting to go in. I have read reviews on the Baldre and everyone seems to go for the slipper clutch. Do i realy need one and what is the difference between a slipper clutch and a double slipper clutch? I have also heard the rear diff could do with replacing the plastic for metal outputs. I know you can go on for ever with hopups but i am just after the essentials. I am not a racer but the buggy will be used on most surfaces, mud, dust tracks, some tarmack.

Any info would be a real help.

thanks folks.

[adam1973]

I'm not sure about what hop ups are needed, but if it breaks when you've fitted the hot motor set up, then replace with a hop up would be a good idea. One recommendation I have would be to replace the stock pinion with a hardened one, and perhaps a smalled tooth because of the greater max rpm of the motor. I have a 15 tooth pinion Robinson Racing 48 pitch for sale if you're interested, 3.00 posted within the UK.

I have heard that ball dif's can let go because of the greater heat generated from the hotter motor though. CVD's might be a good idea as a replacement for the dog bones, and a heatsink for the chassis/motor would be advise-able as well.

A list of all the hop ups as of righting; http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rcpss.php...n=&offset=1

Its probably possible to hop the chassis to full 501X spec.

[94eg!]

If your worried about the drivetrain, all you need is the slipper and 501X diff outdrives. Having said that, I personally wouldn't worry about it. No sense spending extra cash on parts you don't need right away. The car is a blast to drive box-stock and I have a borrowed one with a 15T brushed motor in it. Smoothest buggy I've ever driven and handles the torque without complaint...

Just pay close attention when assembling and adjusting the diffs. The instructions can be a little missleading when you have to turn things around to install the spring, nut & thrust bearing. Also don't be affraid to take the suspension appart after driving and adjust the diffs after break-in. The trick is to get them tight enough that they don't slip. Otherwise the heat generated will melt/deform the plastic thrust plates. This causes more slipping, more heating, and finally melted diff pulleys...

BTW: I highly recommend you get an inexpensive hex-head screw set as the plastic is far too hard for all those phillips head machine screws. Even if you don't have nice hex wrenches, the car would still be easier to assemble with allen keys than phillips drivers...

[terry.sc]

Nothings needed for the Baldre, the slipper clutch is about it depending on what you are doing with it. You certainly don't need 501X diff outdrives for it unless you are running extremely fast motors.

The DF-03 (Dark Impact) rear diff usually melts due to people bolting silly motors into them without the slipper clutch and having the gear drive to the rear end. As the DF-03 has a much smaller diff than normal the extra load in the small area overloads the diff and it slips and the heat melts the washer mounts. The bigger area in the Baldre and the belt drive means there's less shock loads on the balls so it can take much higher loads than the DF-03 diffs, it will easily handle an Ezrun system.

The slipper clutch helps protect the drivetrain, when you jump the wheels (and therefore drivetrain) spins, when you land the shock of the sudden stop of the wheels will be transmitted through the drivetrain to the motor, which if the drivetrain comes to a sudden stop while under full load there's a chance something can break. The slipper clutch slips so the motor power is momentarily disconnected from the drivetrain saving an damage to the gears/belts/diffs/driveshafts. The double slipper clutch puts a slipper on either side of the spur gear instead of just one side. The very small advantage of the double slipper clutch is not noticeable unless you are racing at a high level so not worth the extra cost.

[bonkett]

Thanks for the info folks, it looks like i will buy a slipper clutch but thats pretty much it for now, but as you said i will take great care when assembling. i might also invest in a set of hex head screws.

[HereBeMonsters]

Why are hex head screws better? Surely a screw's a screw?

[terry.sc]

To turn a hex head screw you just put the driver in the screw and turn, no need to keep pressure on it to keep the hex driver in the head and no way of rounding the head off like you can with pozidrive screws. As you have to drive the screws into reinforced plastic you need to put a lot of force on the screws to be able to drive them in, not enough pressure and the screwdriver will just pull itself out of the screw head and round the sides of the slot. Try the same with hex head screws (with a decent allen driver!) and no matter how tight the screw is the allen driver will never damage the hex.

Be aware that the cheap allen keys really need throwing away and decent allen drivers will never round out a hex head screw.

[HunterZero]

Screwing together a DB01 is an effort with philips head screws... Your arms will be very sore after this build!

And don't even think about using a titanium screw set...

As said above, the problem is that the chassis plastics are VERY tough in the DB01, and the supplied screws aren't tapping screws, they have a standard thread.

If you want to use the kit supplied screws, you can, but it's a good idea to 'tap' each hole first with a hex head screw, and use a small dab of silicon grease on the screw. Makes it far easier to put together.

The worst part is screwing in the suspension mounts... That alone is almost a reason to get the alu mounts!

- James

[94eg!]

...And don't even think about using a titanium screw set...

A titanium screw kit would be hex-head screws, so that would be a good thing (unless you pieced together those vintage Tamiya titinaium phillips screws from the Avante era)...

[terry.sc]

Titanium is relatively brittle. Try cutting the screw threads with titanium screws and you are likely to snap the heads off the screws before they are screwed in, certainly on the pivot pin mounts.

[qatmix]

If you want a slipper clutch, I have a brand new one (in bag) that I can sell you.

[Mr. ED]

if you're going to tap the screw tread, invest in a cheap tapping tool for M3

And yes that is a good idea: pre-treaded srew tread causes a lot less internal tension in the hard plastic, which means it can take more external tension from crashes etc.

Usin the hexheaded screw to 'tap' is not he same: it wil just push the tread in rather than cut it.

The tapping tool can be as simple as a holder for handrill's in which you put the tapping bit.

The M3 tap bits come in sets of 3: sligth cut, medium cut and final cut. I suggest only to use the first 2 in that order: the final bit sometimes leaves too litlle friction between the plastic and screw which makes the screw come out under vibration