Extreme Hop Ups

[Podder]

Hello to my new friends,

Just joined the "club" and wanted to say hello (I do have an ulterior motive too which i will come to if you haven't already guessed from the topic title).

I used to own a Mudblaster many moons ago which i loved, and wanted to get back into RC so after some research thought the Extreme would be a good restarting point. So, pre-Christmas I started dropping some considerable hints to the wife, and hey presto Santa delivered.

I do consider myself a complete novice as it has been so long since my last model and the only option i fitted back then was some oil shocks (due my pocket money limitations). Well the pocket money has seen an increase since then (although the hours needed to get this has increased at a higher rate and with considerably more stress) so i thought i would spend some of my hard earned cash on my favourite Chrimbo pressy.

Now three weeks into January and i haven't even taken the kit out of the box. Why I hear you collectively scream. Well, as i have mentioned i want to upgrade it, both in looks and performance, but I am pulling the remaining few strands of hair i have out of my head trying to get some straight answers. Unfortunately for me it doesn't seem that the credit crunch affects modelshops as the responses to my numerous e-mails have been poor to say the least. I want to spend money but no-one wants to take it!!

I have also been doing quite a lot of reserach on the internet (how did we live without it?) but seem to be hitting some varying answers on ability/reliability. I have read umpteen forums, and do appreciate that there have been numerous ones on TC already regarding this, yet some of my questions still remain unanswered, so i thought i would start my own thread and hope you arent all too bored of answering the same questions from newbies yet.

So here goes:

First thing is obvously ball racing, which i actually convinced Santa to bring with the kit, so job done there.

Shocks - Oil filled Alloy units needed which i think i have found but not too keen on the Pink colour. (Tamiya part 53155) Are there other colours or options avialable?

Motor - Would love a Super Stock BZ but is it going to send my ESC into meltdown? If so what is a good replacement, I read about the Mtroniks Viper RV15, or will the 101 survive?

Pinion Gear - If i upgrade the motor can i still change the pinion to a 20 tooth or are these as compatible as a fart in an enclosed space?

Wheels - I have to get rid of the yellow ones (apologies to those that run them). Will any 2.2" 12mm hex wheels be a straight fit? (The only wheel options i have received back from the modelshops I contacted were either chrome ones of the same style or Wild Willy ones.)

Tyres - What tyres would i then need to get to fit? I want to run it both on road and off (dont mind getting two sets of tyres {and maybe two sets of wheels if they have to be glued}). I like the look of the Yokohama Geolander but then read that these may not be very good. Also would the standard Extreme studded tyres fit on a new set of 2.2's?

Alloy parts - (Eg Suspension arms, knuckles, heat sink) Again the modleshops have been unhelpful telling me that there are no alloy upgrades available for the Extreme yet i have seen a number of members models with them on. Can i get the ones that fit a Twin Detonator and if so are there any colour options other than the blue, which i like but they seem to be used quite a bit (Silver would be good). I also read that GPM alloy parts can be a bit hit and miss on quality and size, do you find this to be the case?

Lastly (Phew) re paint - Do i need a primer and what laquer can i use (I am thinking of going dark blue with copper flames amongst a couple of other ideas).

For any of you who have managed to get this far, thank you. Apologies for the length but i am so desperate to get building that i wanted to make sure i had covered everything (which i think i have but if you know of more i can do to my truck please feel free to tell).

Thanking you in anxious anticipation.

[adam1973]

I would recommend a set of Wild Dagger (same chassis) maxx shock mounts and a set of E/T-Maxx shocks off ebay, or where-ever... The Shock towers are only available fromthere or GPM's website, either that you could make a set your self once you have the shocks. They provide a much better ride height and vastly improve the off-road ability.

[tamiya monkey]

I would be interested here too as i too have been looking at upgrading my bfe.

[Pavster]

Hello...

With the motor, don't get a Tamiya one, I know some people love them, but you can get brilliant ones which are SOOO much cheaper. Ansmann do some very low turn motors for under a tenner, much better than spending 30 on a 23 turn motor. And, if it breaks like it probably will if you play around a lot and like putting it through water you can just buy another one!! You will, however, have to buy a better esc than the one provided with the kit...they aren't that good!! RV 15 is good, I have one in my Subaru.

A couple of really good websites are Modelsport and fusion hobbies. Both email back relatively quickly, but it's a lot easier to phone 'em. Main thing is to get a big battery, gets the most out of the motors and lets you go for longer!!

Pav

[skip665]

Hello...

With the motor, don't get a Tamiya one, I know some people love them, but you can get brilliant ones which are SOOO much cheaper. Ansmann do some very low turn motors for under a tenner, much better than spending 30 on a 23 turn motor. And, if it breaks like it probably will if you play around a lot and like putting it through water you can just buy another one!! You will, however, have to buy a better esc than the one provided with the kit...they aren't that good!! RV 15 is good, I have one in my Subaru.

A couple of really good websites are Modelsport and fusion hobbies. Both email back relatively quickly, but it's a lot easier to phone 'em. Main thing is to get a big battery, gets the most out of the motors and lets you go for longer!!

Pav

Whilst I agree in principle with what you are saying I have been down the road of the Ansmann motors and they are rubbish! Spend 20 on something like a Tamiya SuperStock RZ (23t) and watch it drastically outperform a 21t Ansmann motor by a country mile. Venom Fireballs aren't too bad and are sort of in between the two - I had a 17t version in my Lunchbox (13 if memory serves) and it went very well!

Mtroniks ESCs are great for bashing as most are waterproof

[Pavster]

Whilst I agree in principle with what you are saying I have been down the road of the Ansmann motors and they are rubbish! Spend 20 on something like a Tamiya SuperStock RZ (23t) and watch it drastically outperform a 21t Ansmann motor by a country mile. Venom Fireballs aren't too bad and are sort of in between the two - I had a 17t version in my Lunchbox (13 if memory serves) and it went very well!

Mtroniks ESCs are great for bashing as most are waterproof

Must disagree... think for the price, they are awesome, just goes to show tamiya overcharging for something as always...a 15t/18t ansmann will always outperform a tamiya, and they are all the same price, between5-10 pounds...Will agree that fireballs are much better but when you are buying motors for a twin motor car you have to look at your budget!! Gone off the subject here since yours isn't twin motor

[terry.sc]

Must disagree... think for the price, they are awesome, just goes to show tamiya overcharging for something as always...a 15t/18t ansmann will always outperform a tamiya,

...and a decent 19 turn motor will thrash the Ansmann 15 turn, both in torque and speed. There's a good reason why the Ansmann motors are cheap, they are the same mass produced 540 motor as in the kits but with a different wind. They still don't have bearings, decent brushes and a trued comm. The only good thing about them is the price, but judging by the lifespan of the ones I've seen it's cheaper in the long run to pay for a proper motor than to keep on replacing dead Ansmanns.

With motors you really do get what you pay for, which is why top racers are happy to pay up to 60 for brushed motors and most of the racers at my club use Peak Vantage 19T motors, you can tell when anyone is trying to keep up with an Ansmann motor by the smell of burning motor windings - one was so bad people were looking for electrical shorts over in the pits.

[HereBeMonsters]

I have an Ansmann 15T motor, which ran great in an M03, and is currently doing the biz in the Hornet, but when I put it in the Lunchbox it wouldn't even wheelie. NO torque. With the burning smells coming from it recently I fully expect it to die a horrible fiery death very soon. It will be replaced with a decent motor, probably another SuperStock BZ, or maybe a Dirt Tuned.

[wolfdogstinkus]

Yep , save your money and buy a peak racing motor, I had a 19T in my pumpkin and it threw it up on one wheel, currently I have a 18T ansmann clash in there and it won't wheelie unless I hit reverse first!, Gonna put the peak racing motor back in!

[sgireland]

Some good info in this thread that should apply to my Overlander. Looking to upgrade shocks, motor, add bushings and possibly replace the factory painted body.

[tamiya monkey]

Ive had a few sport tuned motors now and you would notice an increase in performance from stock, really depends on your esc limit really, ive tried the ansmann clash motors and they are pants, sorry guys. as i look at cheap and more expensive motors, it makes the likes of the ezrun brushless systems of ebay look better and better, little maintenance and a fair increase in speed from what everyone is saying, im going to plump for 2 or 3 sets next for a few of my cars.

[Podder]

The story so far then...

Shocks - need to find some Maxx one's. I have had a butchers on't tinterweb for E/T Maxx and can find E Maxx or T Maxx. Are there some that are an E/T or did you mean one or the other?

Motor - Personal preference seems to be the answer. I think i'll stick with the BZ, thanks anyway. Does anyone know if this will turn the 101 ESC into a liquid mess? Otherwise it is the Mtroniks for me.

So now onto the alloy parts. Do i need to get ones that will fit the Twin Detonator or should i be looking for ones with a different part number (eg TL01).

And the wheels, am i correct in thinking that zny 2.2" 12mm hex wheels will fit.

I have now opened the box and can smell the plastic.

Cheers.

[Mad Ax]

This thread seems to have gone a bit off-topic, so I thought I'd bring it back into line with my own experience - I've had my Blackfoot Extreme in various configurations.

Shocks:

If you buy GPM shock mounts, you will be able to fit 4" (100mm) shocks. These are a fairly "standard" length shock for 1/10 monster trucks so there are many available - Yeah! Racing alloy shocks are cheap but quality is suspect and they leak lots, if it's a runner then avoid them. 3-Racing shocks are very good value for money, they only come in blue but look and perform great. Alternatively there's a huge range of plastic shocks available and you can often find aftermarket shocks for the T-Maxx / E-Maxx which will fit onto the GPM shock mounts.

These are the GPM shock mounts:

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-wild-dagg...ath=595_744_713

I can't remember off-hand if they're supplied singly or in pairs - you need one mount for each end.

Motor

I ran a Super Stock BZ in my BEx with great results. I think Tamiya's motors are very good. Unlike most 23T motors, the BZ is built to provide lots of torque, which is great if you have big monster truck wheels and tyres. My Super Stock BZ performed better than an LRP Super-TC 19T motor.

I have also run all of my Super Stock motors on the TEU-101BK without any problems. I have never had a 101 fail. Having said that, other people have had lots of problems with the 101, especially with hot motors. Remember the 101 is only rated to 27 turns, so you will be pushing it beyond its design limits - it might work, it might melt. The RV15 is a good ESC and will give you lots of room to improve if you decide to fit a more expensive 19T motor at a later date. Summary: it's up to you; personally, I'd go for a BZ on the stock 101.

Pinion Gear

The uprated 20T pinion will be fine with the Super Stock BZ. The stock pinion is way too small and gives no speed. BEx gearing is already fairly low so you don't need to worry too much about gearing, and the BZ has plenty of torque. If you decide to go for a race motor of 19T or below then you might need to refit the 18T pinion, but it will be a case of trial and error to see what works best with your motor.

Wheels

This is a just question. Technically, the BEx uses a "standard" 2.2" wheel size. This means that, in theory, any other 2.2 wheel with a 12mm hex will fit. There are many options on the market. You might find that some wheels don't fit - unfortunately this is trial and error too. A wheel with a narrow offset (where the rim sits inwards over the hub instead of extending outwards) might cause problems with the ribs rubbing on the hub. Most monster truck wheels have a wide offset so they are OK. I have fitted a variety of HPI wheels to my BEx and have had no problems - HPI wheels look very good - www.modelsport.co.uk has a good selection of HPI wheels. Make sure you buy 2.2 hex-drive wheels for front and rear - you don't need 2wd-type front wheels as the BEx has a hex fitment on all 4 wheels.

Alternatively, you can paint your standard wheels. Tamiya's polycarbonate sprays are designed to flex with lexan shells, and therefore work well on wheels (which also flex). You'll need to rough up the surface and apply plenty of coverage. I shot a can of black over both sides of my yellow wheels, then covered the faces with silver. The results were pretty good, but the paint will get scraped off the outer rim if you bash in rocky places. Make sure you use polycarb paint (Tamiya paint code PS) and not acrylic paint (TS), as the acrylic paint will flake if the wheel flexes.

Tyres

Again, the BEx tyres are a fairly universal 2.2 fitment. In theory, any 2.2 tyre will fit any 2.2 rim. Most online hobby shops list a range of 2.2 tyres. I'm sure a question on "what 2.2 tyre for mud bashing" or whatever will reveal some useful infos from the members here (although it often comes down to personal preference). Some off-road tyres are very sticky and will wear out quick on tarmac, rocks or gravel - other tyres are harder wearing.

You can also buy 2.2 tyres with street treads. Browse the tyre selection on www.modelsport.co.uk to see a wide range of tyres for all conditions.

Avoid Ho-Bao Monsters - these are awesomely sticky and look fantastic, but they have a very wide balloon profile and will rub on the suspension arms. I have these on my 14.4v Dagger and I've had to use axle wideners to make them fit. On tarmac they are too sticky for their own good and the truck usually ends up on its roof.

Alloy parts

First, remember that alloy parts aren't always better than plastic. They are heavier and more brittle - alloy will permanently bend or even snap whereas plastic will absorb shocks and spring back to shape.

The range for the BEx is limited, but the BEx uses the same suspension arms and knuckles as the TL-01B - so many TL-01B alloy parts will fit. The knuckles and uprights are in fact regular TL-01 parts, also used on the M03 and M04.

Bear in mind that since neither the BEx, the TL-01B, or the TL-01 were ever considered to be high-tech racing chassis, so none of the parts are made by high-tech racing companies. Companies like Yeah! Racing or GPM are more about "bling" than performance - the quality of the alloy is suspect and some parts can be very soft. Personally, I'd avoid alloy steering knuckles - I had some on my 14.4v dagger and they bent within seconds. The plastic ones have never failed.

This section on RCMart is useful for specific BEx parts (the Wild Dagger uses the same chassis):

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/tamiya-wild-...95_744_713.html

paint

The plastic will need to be primed before painting. Tamiya Fine primer is good if you can get it, although there is a severe shortage of Tamiya paint in the Europe right now due to some EU legislation on paint labelling. Any automotive primer should do but these are thicker, so they need to be laid on more carefully. If you're based in the UK then Halfords do some good aerosol primers. Once you've primed the shell you can fire on any automotive paint and laquer.

Remember that a hard shell will get scraped if you are going to enjoy your RC. ABS shells can crack, split or shatter, and grilles etc. can get broken off very easily. My personal preference on the BEx is to buy a lexan (polycarbonate) shell - there's hundreds of styles to choose from - and use this to run. The ABS shell can then be kept nice and shiny for when the model is on the shelf. Also because lexan shells are lighter you'll get better handling and performance - as well as less chance of rolling over. Lexan shells are flexible and don't lose their paint as easy as ABS because it's safely protected on the inside.

Hopefully that's answered your questions, and I sympathise with your plight in getting very little in the way of response from model shops. I've found this problem isn't just restricted to the hobby industry - so many people seem completely unwilling to put any effort at all into answering emailed queries. Earlier today I sent a page-long email of questions to performance brake supplier for me 1:1 car; the reply I got was "yes we can get discs for your vehicle" - completely ignoring the rest of the questions I'd asked...

[Podder]

Mad Ax you are my new bestest friend. Thank you, thank you, thank you.

I do though have one further question re the 4" shocks. I have read that with these the dogbones will probably start popping out. Is this the case and if so what replacement part should i get? Actually make that two more questions, is it right that the GPM shock tower holes are not threaded? If so i guess that it is easy enough to get some nuts and bolts to fit from a DIY shop or would i need some bizarre size that isnt readily available?

Once again i thank you. If only everyone was as comprehensive in their answers. Unfortunately in boom times customer care can become a lost art as consumers will spend their money regardless, and this certainly seems to be the case here in Blighty, but the bubble has burst, spectacularly, and yet retailers still dont seem to have got the message. The customer is king, they're the only ones that will generate you cashflow, so show them what to spend their cash on. Rant over.

[Leethal Driver]

I run a BFX with the 23T BZ, 20T pinion and an mTronics 20T esc and as Mad Ax says, it runs great. Got some TL01 oil shocks and while fine for gravel bashing they're a bit soft under acceleration. Did have some E Maxx shocks but got rid of them before I got the shock towers, so looking for some more (and I can put the shocks on my TL01 strangely).

Did lose one of the MA1 step screws from the front knuckle so make sure they're nice and snug.

If anyone has a spare from a dead chassis I'll gladly takle it off your hands, they're only in the metal parts bag...and that's twenty quid

[Mad Ax]

I do though have one further question re the 4" shocks. I have read that with these the dogbones will probably start popping out. Is this the case and if so what replacement part should i get? Actually make that two more questions, is it right that the GPM shock tower holes are not threaded? If so i guess that it is easy enough to get some nuts and bolts to fit from a DIY shop or would i need some bizarre size that isnt readily available?

It is possible if you run a taller ride height that the dogbones will pop out. This is a bit of an inherent flaw with dogbones. You can stop this happening by dismantling your new shocks and adding a piece of rubber tube about 3mm long under the piston, this will reduce the shock length to stop the dogbone popping out. Another option (which I haven't tried) is to put some rubber o-rings into the inner and outer drive cups - these should put the dogbone under a little tension to prevent it sliding out on full extension. Obviously, in a big crash the rear arms can still stretch enough that the dogbones pop out.

Alternatively, you can order a set of CVD shafts or universal shafts. You should find at least one brand listed on the RCMart link that I gave in my last thread. They normally come in packs of two. Be careful with these as they're a little more fragile than standard dogbones - I have accidentally bent two of mine while trying to undo the wheel nuts on the front hubs (not really a problem on the 2wd BEx, obviously).

The GPM shock towers aren't threaded, but that's not a problem. They're drilled with the standard 3mm hole that almost all 1:10 RC shocks use for their mounts. All you need are standard 3mm machine bolts and nuts - if you buy a pack of shocks, you may find that the bolts are included. If not, they'll be easy to find at a local hardware store. If memory serves, you want M3 threads - but take along your shocks and towers to be sure.

Sometimes a handy thing is to buy up Tamiya screw bags from Ebay if you see them cheap enough - that way you will end up with a selection of screws, nuts and bolts of various sizes.

[Podder]

Superb, thanks again Mad Ax.

I have ordered pretty much every possible option that has been discussed, it's just a waiting game now....

I reckon it's gonna be a couple of weeks for delivery of some of the parts but i will try to post pictures once completed so you can see what you're advice influenced (unless the build goes the way of the pear in which case you may never hear from me again)

Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeers.

[stamatis]

All info can be found here as some great ideas also:

http://www.rcdaggerweb.com

Just check this out!

[diggernz]

All info can be found here as some great ideas also:

http://www.rcdaggerweb.com

Just check this out!

Thats a great site, It really helped me out.

the BFX is a great truck i have found, I have a 20tooth pinion and the BZ motor with a Apex 18turn ESC.The ESC can get very hot but I am using 3800nimh batteries and drive it hard. I mean very hard. Use the rear shocks of a 2wd Buggy for a cheap shock upgrade to oil filled.I have Dessert Gator and Dark Impact rear shocks on 4 corners of my BFXtreme. Place a small piece of rubber at the bottom of the shock shaft so it has a bump stop when the shocks bottom out and put thicker oil in the shocks. If thats not stiff enuff go down to the single hole piston in the shocks if you still dont have enough dampening in you shocks when out driving.. Bearings all round after my plastic bushings slogged out, decent servo for steering, I have a HPI savage steering servo,I find leaving the tyres unglued acts as a slipper clutch a bit, as it says in the manual, and rubber bands around the rims under the tyre beads can limit this slipping action.The BZ and 20t pinion are a great upgrade for this truck,That and oil shocks and she is a great bashing truck that will do doughnuts all day and really is a fun truck that you can pass to a mate and he wont break it in 5 minutes, well theres alot less chance he will, as these Blackfoot Extremes are super tamiya tough. imo.

Even with the silver can it would do wheelies on high grip surfaces with the new tyres still intact, All the pins have long gone but that tractor tread is hard wearing and may never wear out.

[Henk4Focus]

Interesting discussion on how to get of the point My one Twin Det is 2wd like the BFE. In my humble opinion stay away from those spikey Tamiya tyres. Once the spikes are off, they are ****. Mine still runs on them so I should know. I would dearly love to get some better off road tyres for my truck but that has to wait for a while. My shock are the Tamiya CVA mini shocks at full extension. They work great. The fronts have the 2 hole piston with soft shock oil and the rears 1 hole piston with hard oil. Sorted the rear dipping under hard accelaration to a point. Will not get rid of it completely I think. This setup works very well for me.

I run a 19 turn with one or the other Hitec ESC and has had no hickups to date. I didn't change any of the stock chassis parts of the Detenator and mine has flown high, crashed and generally has a hard life. Bear in mind I play rough but I do not shred my runners. MA1's has fallen out and that is about it. The dogbones don't fall out that easy. Mine stands very high and touch wood no problems yet.

My 5cents worth then.

[Saito]

I put some Proline Masher 2Ks on my Twin Det this past weekend and they work far better than the stock ones. The stockers wear like iron but don't really give all that much traction. The compound is just too hard. The truck used to skidder and slide about but now stays planted with the Prolines.

[tamiya monkey]

just woundered weather my bfe would take a 13x2 motor with the smalller pinion, whats your thoughts on this. just have one lying about and had a crazy thought.

[Danbox]

I think the overall gear ratio for the BFX is pretty low, so it might work. You just have to make sure it doesn't get super hot.

[Leethal Driver]

Anybody know if someone does some decent body posts for the BFX? Rears snapped like a twig when I ran it into the rear tyre on my Ford . Aside from some epoxy, wouldn't mind replacing them with some shiny alloy ones or such.