Twin Det Hop Ups

[Pavster]

Wanted to make my twin det faster, any help? Have an mtroniks super truck esc and 2x18t ansmann motors, bearings done and new pinions, and a 3400mah battery. Wanted to change the dampers because the truck keeps rolling over if i take a fast corner. Also wanted it to do wheelies which it isn't doing at the moment. Look forward to replies!!

[adam1973]

Have a look on search for the LOADS of threads about this chassis. Have a look at these;

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...;hl=wild+dagger

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=40056

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...;hl=wild+dagger

IMO to upgrade the suspension fit the GPM shock towers and a set of E/T-Maxx 4"shocks.

And glue the tyres if you have already done so.

Get rid of those motors and fit a pair of Traxxas 550 can 14.4v Titan motors, 20t hardened pinions and strap the extra battery need to the top of the chassis.

[Pavster]

Any idea if this is a good motor? Wanted to know whether it has a good high speed and torque and whether or not it will make my twin det do wheelies!!!

http://goldstarstockists.net/live/catalog/...oducts_id/20019

Want to spend a maximum of 40 on two motors and I assume I can have no more than two 23x2 turn motors if I have an Mtroniks super truck esc.

Other one is this team orion motor:

http://goldstarstockists.net/live/catalog/...oducts_id/22710

Any help would be awesome.

[Mad Ax]

Get rid of those motors and fit a pair of Traxxas 550 can 14.4v Titan motors, 20t hardened pinions and strap the extra battery need to the top of the chassis.

550 motors and 14.4v is doable in a Twin Detonator, but it's a lot of effort for some questionable gains. With the battery strapped up-top, the chassis becomes very top-heavy and handling is almost impossible. The extra weight of the battery also makes it very difficult to stop, and overcomes the ability of many aftermarket shock options. GPM shock towers and good-quality 100mm shocks are a must if you're going to go 14.4v; an aftermarket chassis with extra battery location is also an option worth considering.

Remember that this additional weight will also cause problems for your steering - I have a high-torque metal gear servo in my 14.4v Dagger and even that struggles with my wide Ho Bao Monster tyres; when I can be bothered I'll be employing a twin-servo setup on the front.

A 100mm shock conversion will give huge handling benefits if you stick to 7.2v, but you might need to fit CVDs to prevent the front dogbones from popping out (in fact, if you're running a high ride, you might need CVDs on the rear too).

whether or not it will make my twin det do wheelies!!!

Can't help with either motor I'm afraid - but wheelying a Twin Det might be tricky, due to the weight of the extra gearbox and motor up-front. It'll probably wheelie if you reverse it then slam the stick forwards, but this isn't good for your drivetrain.

My 14.4v Dagger will power-wheelie off the throttle but it does have double the voltage to get it there - and personally I'm not sure it's worth the hassle

[Pavster]

A 100mm shock conversion will give huge handling benefits if you stick to 7.2v, but you might need to fit CVDs to prevent the front dogbones from popping out (in fact, if you're running a high ride, you might need CVDs on the rear too).

Just wondering what CVD's are...

Also does the TD have a specific chassis number or is it a TL-01 with extras, cos all the shocks I can see are for the touring TL-01. If anyone has any links then please post. Have been through the search but most links are now void because of age...

[Mad Ax]

Just wondering what CVD's are...

Also does the TD have a specific chassis number or is it a TL-01 with extras, cos all the shocks I can see are for the touring TL-01. If anyone has any links then please post. Have been through the search but most links are now void because of age...

IIRC, CVD stand for Constant Velocity Driveshaft - or something along those lines. Basically it's a slightly more high-tech version of the dogbone-and-drivecup arrangement on most Tamiyas. They usually come in packs of two (so you'll need two packs) and consist of a shaft with a constant velocity joint or universal joint to an output shaft which is machined and threaded to fit in your swivel hubs and accept your wheel nut. You simply remove your existing outer drive cups and dogbones and slot the CVDs into place.

Because the CV joint keeps the shaft attached, it won't pop out if the hubs swivel too far, although in a big crash they can still come free of the inner drive cup.

For links, check the other thread called "Extreme Hop Ups" on this forum - I put a link in there to RCMart, who lists a number of hop-ups for the Wild Dagger chassis.

The Wild Dagger and all its successors are based very loosely on the TL-01B chassis, but they are not the same, although they do share some parts and basic geometry. The chassis rail and gearboxes are unique to the Wild Dagger series, and because of that it tends to be known as the Wild Dagger chassis - I don't think Tamiya ever had a specific code for the chassis.

Upper and lower arms, front and rear, are shared with the TL-01B, as are the standard shocks, which are 70mm. Aluminium arms and shocks designed for the TL-01B will fit. The c-hubs, swivel-hubs, and rear uprights are shared by the TL-01, TL-01B, Wild Dagger, and various others - there's a huge number of aluminium bits out there if you want them, but personally I'd steer clear - they look good but many aren't as strong as original plastic. Neither the TL-01, TL-01B or Wild Dagger were ever intended as high-tech race chassis, so none of the aftermarket parts have a race-proven pedigree.

[Pavster]

Wow MadAx, you really know your stuff!! I have actually been looking on the RCMart website, it's very comprehensive, although they seem to like Yeah! racing and 3Racing a lot... Will buy a shock tower and some 95mm shocks and will get those CVD's...Looking forward to upgrading the old TD, it's been a while...

[Mighty flex]

maybe a good way to wheelie is to move the battery back... like ontop of the motor... i have it like that on my 2wd converted hbx thingie (tl01b) hilarious!

[Pavster]

Just a couple more questions...I wanted new motors for the truck, and I keep hearing that the Tamiya BZ's are awesome for torque and speed. Was wondering if there are any other motors in the same price range that are better than the BZ's? Number of turns doesn't matter, just want to know I'm spending my hard earned money on the best thing at that price!!

Also looked for CVD's, heard a lot of them are very brittle, so I was wondering if anyone knows of some really good ones that they use which will fit in the TD chassis with a shock tower and 110/100mm shocks(not decided which ones to get yet)?

Thanks...in advance!!

[Saito]

I'm in the same boat as you looking for motors for my Twin Det. Tamiya BZs are good motors and provide alot of torque, but there are certainly other motors in the price range that are good too. I'm looking at Trinity Speedgem's 17T x 2 Amber motors as they were recommended by a couple monster truck sites. One issue with the BZ's is that they come with advanced timing which is an issue with the Twin Det since one of the motors runs backwards of the other. I think someone on here figured out a way to re-time the Super Stock motors though. When shopping for motors look for ones that are 0 timed (like Venom Fireballs, but I'm NOT recommending them as a brand) or ones with adjustable timing so both motors can be set the same._

[stamatis]

Check www.rcdaggerweb.com.

You will find answers to all your questions and more!

[diggernz]

I use tamiya 2wd/4wd rear buggy shocks on all 4 corners of my twin det.dual hunter chassis.Stick to a single battery if you can imo.I cant justify spending to much on a truck like this.It is a good truck, but has its limits.Tough.

[Pavster]

Hey guys, I'm having a bit of problem with my TD steering. If I hit a wall or do a jump then the steering seems to stay in the same place where it hits. Then I have to stop the car and restart it with the wheels frontways... Just wondering if the servo isn't strong enough to handle the weight of the car. I use a regular acoms servo...Any help?

[Pavster]

Anyone? You can't all be that busy...

[28yoKid]

Hi Pavster, I too have a 14.4v Wild Dagger. I cut an extra hole above the battery compartment so the other battery fits on top of the other. This means the balance is the same so handling isn't odd. I have also upgraded the shocks to 110mm ones.

[terry.sc]

Hey guys, I'm having a bit of problem with my TD steering. If I hit a wall or do a jump then the steering seems to stay in the same place where it hits. Then I have to stop the car and restart it with the wheels frontways... Just wondering if the servo isn't strong enough to handle the weight of the car. I use a regular acoms servo...Any help?

Could be one of two problems.

You have the wrong adapter on the servo. The servo saver has different adaptors for different size servos, with different numbers of splines in them. Fit the wrong one and it isn't properly located in place, so it jumps round the splines when you hit something. You would know if this was the problem as you will hear it clicking when you turn it back into position.

You have overtightened the screw holding servo saver on the servo, so when it gets knocked the excess friction means the spring on it isn't strong enough to push it back straight again. Loosen the screw slightly, make sure the servo saver springs back into position but make sure it's not loose and there's no slop.

[Pavster]

Could be one of two problems.

You have the wrong adapter on the servo. The servo saver has different adaptors for different size servos, with different numbers of splines in them. Fit the wrong one and it isn't properly located in place, so it jumps round the splines when you hit something. You would know if this was the problem as you will hear it clicking when you turn it back into position.

You have overtightened the screw holding servo saver on the servo, so when it gets knocked the excess friction means the spring on it isn't strong enough to push it back straight again. Loosen the screw slightly, make sure the servo saver springs back into position but make sure it's not loose and there's no slop.

Hey Terry,

Don't have it with me but i know I have tightened the screw as much a possible because i lost one screw off an old servo by not having overtightened. Will try loosening it and see what happens.

The servo saver is definately the correct one. Acoms for Acoms not the futaba one...

Cheers,

Pav

[Pavster]

Guys,

Servo Savers...any ideas?

I'm assuming the one that comes stock is useless since I have shredded 3 servo's now. Just bought a Bluebird servo from Fusion Hobbies, but think i probably need a proper servo saver to go with it.

Anyone got any ideas? Any good ones out there that I should know about? The one in my DF03MS is good, but not sure it will work with the TD.

Let me know.

Pav

[Dances With Cages]

Guys,

Servo Savers...any ideas?

Pav

Hi there. I've been using a large Traxxas servo saver in my BFX and it's been great. A lot stronger than standard and long enough to work well. If you compare the standard one to many others it's rather long so many replacements won't allow you enough steering throw.

Regards, Justin.

[stampede killer]

i like this guys thrasher shock towers, and im planning on buying a chassis from him sometime http://www.demonicdesigns.moonfruit.com/#

[mike_o]

Hi

I recently purchased a nice, but incomplete Twin Detonator / Wild Dagger for $25. It did miss one of the gearboxes, though. I got a new one of Ebay (Japan) for another $25 incl shipping, and fitted it with ball bearings before mounting. I also took the existing gearbox apart for inspection and ball bearing fitment. It looked like new. I then fitted syd Tamiya Oil Shocks and 5mm ball joints to reduce suspension play. Then I cleaned up the whole thing and mounted ball bearing for the wheels as well. That set me back 28 pcs of 1150 bearings!!

In the proces of inspection, I tossed the mechanical speed regulator and fitted 2 TEU-101 ESCs. They sell for very little these days. I paralleled (Y-type connection, only made on a small PCB) the ESC inputs to the receiver, mounted a 5V regulator (7805) to the output of one of the TEUs and used this for the receiver supply. The output from the other TEU is in surplus and can be used for lights etc. The ESC battery/power wires was paralleled to the deans connector.

Finally, I mounted a 3S LiPo (11.1Volt, 2280mAh, 30C) battery, which is smaller and lighter than NiMh or NiCd. It's locked into place with rubber bands rather than the bulky original Tamiya plastic bits. I set up the ESC simultaneously in order to sync them. Testing, they seem very identical in their linearity.

Then I tried out the car: Holy **** - it just took off like a demented firecracker, wheelies and all :-) I've paid attention to not raising the ride height to save the dog bones, but I doubt if they can cope with this...

I few pics of a nice, cheap set-up / hop-up:

[mike_o]

Hmm,

it held up about 4 minutes:

[MadInventor]

Hmm,

it held up about 4 minutes:

Too much power . I'm also amazed the 101s didn't blow up with 11V put through them

[mike_o]

The TEU-101s hold up nicely. At least the 3 or 4 pcs I have running in my DT02s. I do make sure that the current x voltage product doesn't get out of hand, though. I only run the 101s in 2WD buggies with low gearing, ball bearings and silver cans or sport tuned 540s. But trust me on how fast a Desert Gator with a good (there's spread allright) Sport Tuned motor goes :-) Even with a ball diff, there is no way to use that power on gravel or dust. At least, I can't :-)

With the 3S LiPo pack hitting $15, I'd say it the cheapest tuning you can get for a 2WD chassis.

[commiedoor]

more power = more broken bits ! lol ..i bought a dagger a while back and the bloke that owned it turned it in to a crawler . it has 55t motors and he was running a 101 for both motors .. i fdidnt want to fry it so i bought a amax ( hsp ) twin motor esc , works fine and doesnt get hot . if you trust your self NOT to crash a lot theres a heap of cheap alloy stuff for dagger/twin dets out there on evilbay ! yeah racing is far better than gpm parts , too bad i found out after i decked out the dagger ! i'm blinging up a hbx bonza thingy just for fun and yeah racing has every thing except the chassis . cvd are the way to go of the front as i have bent the standard bones on the dagger twice and it doesnt go fast , just goes every were ! lol