andyp2 0 Posted March 3, 2009 Well ,I've finished the Baldre Brushless build, with 51018 Slipper Clutch, and it runs fine and fast 'on the bench' but I can't get it to run on the ground ! Stripped and adjusted both diffs and slipper clutch again, and again, they are all to correct tolerances, but it won't accelerate, just crawls off in forward, getting slightly better traction in reverse. Feels and sounds like it's slipping somewhere but I can't figure out where. Anyone with any ideas ? I could overtighten diffs and slipper clutch, but that's not recommended, maybe go for better diffs?? or bin the slipper clutch for now. Is the Brushless too much for stock diffs, Frustrated, because I want this to be FAST, Don't see any posts on the Baldre, is it only me who's spending silly money on this model ?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
calicool 27 Posted March 3, 2009 Have you checked to see that the roll pin is in the slipper shaft for the pulley? That may be whats slipping it could just be turning on the shaft...But other than that if your diffs and slipper are built per the instructions i am out of ideas.. Your not the only one with allot of money into the DB01 chassis... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
terry.sc 16 Posted March 3, 2009 Easy way to tell what's slipping. Put it up against something solid and open the throttle. Watch the end of the layshaft to see if it's turning. If the layshaft doesn't turn the problem is in the slipper clutch, if it turns the problem is in the diffs, unless the driveshafts are spinning. Once you've identiifed where the problem is a quick rebuild following the instructions should sort it out. You won't find any posts on the Baldre, plenty of people had already bought the Durga which is exactly the same chassis. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BiggusDitchus 38 Posted March 3, 2009 The problem WILL be the diffs, as per the Durga the metal diff plates dont have a key to the diff output so unless its glued thoroughly anything more than a silver can will have the plate spinning but not turning the output. So simple solution (ok I know the strip down to get both diffs aint a simple task) is to remove diffs and strip diffs, thoroughly degrease them and then firmly glue the metal diff plates to the diff outputs. I had same problem with my Durga, but now its glued thoroughly the only problem i have is braking the car when I hit something hard . Oh and another recommendation before you run it make sure you have the 3racing aluminium pivot pin mounts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
andyp2 0 Posted March 4, 2009 The problem WILL be the diffs, as per the Durga the metal diff plates dont have a key to the diff output so unless its glued thoroughly anything more than a silver can will have the plate spinning but not turning the output.So simple solution (ok I know the strip down to get both diffs aint a simple task) is to remove diffs and strip diffs, thoroughly degrease them and then firmly glue the metal diff plates to the diff outputs. I had same problem with my Durga, but now its glued thoroughly the only problem i have is braking the car when I hit something hard . Oh and another recommendation before you run it make sure you have the 3racing aluminium pivot pin mounts. Cheers Biggus - more wisdom from the Master, thanks everyone, I'm learnin fast, but it's hard on the wrist stripping down all dem screws ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HunterZero 76 Posted March 4, 2009 I had same problem with my Durga, but now its glued thoroughly the only problem i have is braking the car when I hit something hard . So you need to brake before you hit something hard, or you will break something after you hit hard... - James Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lonestar 1 Posted March 4, 2009 the metal diff plates dont have a key to the diff output so unless its glued thoroughly anything more than a silver can will have the plate spinning but not turning the output. Sorry to contradict the master but this is wrong. The balls will roll, and even slip on the metal diff rings waaaaay before the diff rings rotate on the outdrive (Assuming the diff was built properly in the first place). No notch needed... For info none of the Xray electric cars have notches on their diff rings/outdrives... and none of the Xray drivers glue them (barrign a few oddballs), as this adds risk not to glue them flatly which will shorten their lives tremendously. However there should be a slight cushion of silicon grease between the outdrive and the ring to help prevent the "slip/stick" effect. I know it is counterintuitive... flame me if you want Paul Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BiggusDitchus 38 Posted March 4, 2009 Sorry to contradict the master but this is wrong. The balls will roll, and even slip on the metal diff rings waaaaay before the diff rings rotate on the outdrive. No notch needed... For info none of the Xray electric cars have notches on their diff rings/outdrives... and none of the Xray drivers glue them (barrign a few oddballs), as this adds risk not to glue them flatly which will shorten their lives tremendously. However there should be a slight cushion of silicon grease between the outdrive and the ring to help prevent the "slip/stick" effect. I know it is counterintuitive... flame me if you want Paul Ok so I had the same problem as AndyP2 as have others and once I glued the rings with superglue the problem went away.. Do you have a Durga/Baldre or are you just presuming you know the answer? The durga instructions tell you to glue it with synthetic rubber cement.. which is not up to the job.. hence my recommendation to use superglue. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lonestar 1 Posted March 4, 2009 No durbalgadre in my collection I have to admit (although I'm thinking about getting one)... but I've built and raced competitively modern electric racers (on and offroad) for the last 12 yrs, up until now and still planning to do it the next 12 yrs at least... Remember tamiya manuals also recommends to grease external transmission parts for their offroad cars, such as dogbone pins and diff outdrives for instance, which no experienced modeller in their right mind would do As usual, contradicting a long-established forum member (whether on tamiyaclub or any other technical internet forum) means trouble, so let me withdraw from that discussion right away. Sorry for the trouble, if any. Paul Additional edit: the 501X diffs are very similar... no notch in the ring... and the instructions don't recommend any kind of permanent fixing of the ring to the outdrive... which anyway means PITA maintenance later on as the diff rings are disposable anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hedge 314 Posted March 4, 2009 I would agree with you both... 1) The fix may well be to use super glue. 2) However the need to use super glue would reflect the poor design of the diff. If you can't tighten it enough to stop the rings from slipping in the first place then its pretty rubbish. I whole heartedly agree with Lonestar that the idea of greasing outdrive or dog bone is ridiculous. During normal use the diff rings get scoured and the balls leave their own ring. To maintain a ball diff often the quickest easitest way is to flip the diff rings, clean the balls and gear then re-grease and re-seat. Then when you are at home or have some time people just wet 'n' dry the rings smooth again. The idea of super glueing them on does not sound good - remember i am not knocking the answer to the problem simply saying it should not exist and stating reasons why. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BiggusDitchus 38 Posted March 4, 2009 I know what you are saying and I dont agree with it being an ideal situation but the fact of that matter is that with the durga is you need to glue the diff rings. And lonestar I too have raced many levels of racing including 1/10 onroad and offroad, I have much experience with balldiffs from many different manufacturers. As for disagreeing with a long standing member I dont see the problem, just because someone has been on a forum for a long time, doesnt mean they are always right. I would recommend a Durga/Baldre, great cars, just need a few hopups i.e. slipper clutch and the 3racing aluminium pivot pin holders Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dimblum 1 Posted March 4, 2009 I have been racing my Durga at two local tracks for the past year and have gotten to know the DB-01 chassis very well. I would be happy to help out with build problems and recommendations for setting up the car. In regards to the current diff problem: The stock diffs using the plastic backplate should be glued with CA to work properly. Lightly sanding the ring and the backplate before gluing will help the CA to hold better. - Not gluing these parts will cause the metal plates will wear down the plastic backplates (A7) leading to uneven alignment of the diff and/or causeing it to loosen easier. The metal 501X diff joints (#51286) "do not" need to be glued since they will not wear like the plastic parts. All you need is a little diff grease between the rings and the metal diff joints. These are great upgrade parts and are a big help to limit diff maintenance. The biggest mistake I made in the past was -overtightening- the diffs.. This lead to numerous problems such as: 1. deformity of the stock metal diff balls 2. cracking of the CA glue seal when using the stock diff parts 3. deformity of the thrust bearing 4. damage to the K4 part holding the diff together 5. permanent flattening of the diff spring (BG3) making the diff ineffective The solution was to carefully check the diff while it is being tightened. Tamiya includes a picture on pg5 to test this, but they made the picture confusing. What you need to do is insert two thin allen keys (or thin tools) into the slots of each diff joint. Hold both of those joints steady with one hand and try to rotate the pulley gear toward you with the other hand. The pulley gear -should not- turn (or be extremely hard to turn) while both of the diff joints are held in place. If you can turn the pulley gear while the diff joints are locked, then the diff is too loose and needs to be tighter. The ideal setting is to tighten it just enough so the pulley gear does not turn. Tightening it more can damage your diff over time (as mentioned above). Once the diffs are set correctly, install them back into your DB-01 and test it again. Hope this helps. Dan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slimleeroy 241 Posted October 18, 2019 On 3/3/2009 at 8:22 AM, BiggusDitchus said: The problem WILL be the diffs, as per the Durga the metal diff plates dont have a key to the diff output so unless its glued thoroughly anything more than a silver can will have the plate spinning but not turning the output. So simple solution (ok I know the strip down to get both diffs aint a simple task) is to remove diffs and strip diffs, thoroughly degrease them and then firmly glue the metal diff plates to the diff outputs. I had same problem with my Durga, but now its glued thoroughly the only problem i have is braking the car when I hit something hard . Oh and another recommendation before you run it make sure you have the 3racing aluminium pivot pin mounts. What sort of glue can you use? Is super (ca) ok?  Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slimleeroy 241 Posted October 18, 2019 On 3/4/2009 at 4:29 PM, Lonestar said: No durbalgadre in my collection I have to admit (although I'm thinking about getting one)... but I've built and raced competitively modern electric racers (on and offroad) for the last 12 yrs, up until now and still planning to do it the next 12 yrs at least... Remember tamiya manuals also recommends to grease external transmission parts for their offroad cars, such as dogbone pins and diff outdrives for instance, which no experienced modeller in their right mind would do As usual, contradicting a long-established forum member (whether on tamiyaclub or any other technical internet forum) means trouble, so let me withdraw from that discussion right away. Sorry for the trouble, if any. Paul Additional edit: the 501X diffs are very similar... no notch in the ring... and the instructions don't recommend any kind of permanent fixing of the ring to the outdrive... which anyway means PITA maintenance later on as the diff rings are disposable anyway. The trf car has metal ourselves jowever which prevent melting even if it does strip Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
