Common Tamiya Myths #1

[Gruntfuggly 562]

It is possible to remove all bubbles when assembling 959/Celica dampers.

[Hyde17 0]

I'm not that sure how those shocks work. but my methed when it comes to shocks is don't rush.

fill 'em up- let 'em sit

[terry.sc 16]

You need a Tamiya damper oil air remover (no kidding!)

Part number is 53710.

[taliesin 260]

Myth #2: You really can buy just one.

[WillyChang 1814]

You need a Tamiya damper oil air remover (no kidding!)

Part number is 53710.

Myth #3: 53710 is made by Tamiya

Looks suspiciously like the one by Ride, model RP600.

But Tamiya does give you a sticker! that you need to apply yourself.

[HunterZero 76]

Myth #4: The Conrad 240826 motor has mystical powers...

Conrad 240826

Not really a Tamiya myth, but a Tamiyaclub myth...

- James

[Mr. ED 5]

You need a Tamiya damper oil air remover (no kidding!)

Part number is 53710.

Austin Powers has one of these also

[matisse 1581]

You need a Tamiya damper oil air remover (no kidding!)

Part number is 53710.

wow!! i need one, and on the plus side the vac pump is the same that operates the vac-u-vin thingy for keeping wine fresh!!

booze and rc, a winning combination

[matisse 1581]

Myth #4

every Tamiya Kit box that describes the car inside as an "High Performance Off-Road Racer".

The Baja King, a racer, really?!

mat

[twisty 8]

Myth #4

every Tamiya Kit box that describes the car inside as an "High Performance Off-Road Racer".

The Baja King, a racer, really?!

mat

BUSTED!!!!! Have a look at this then if you don`t believe in the humble TL01

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/moviecomment.asp...59&uid=4220

[matisse 1581]

BUSTED!!!!! Have a look at this then if you don`t believe in the humble TL01

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/moviecomment.asp...59&uid=4220

sweet jeebus!! still its been heavily modfied, which is nice

[WillyChang 1814]

Myth #5: a Tamiya will never win a World Championship.

Lasted 26 yrs didn't it?? until 2002

[RETRO R/C 59]

Myth #5: a Tamiya will never win a World Championship.

Lasted 26 yrs didn't it?? until 2002

Very true.............

Dont you just L O V E badge engineering?

Cheers

Darryn

[WillyChang 1814]

^^^^

has its benefits... but 1st time i've had to go PUT the badge on myself!!

What's the issue with 959/Celica dampers anyway, aren't they self-bleeding??!

Fill 'em up until the oil reaches halfway up the tube then cap it,

work the shock a little and all the air eventually rises into the tube.

Not hard to fill without bubbles using the unsharpened Terumo needle; easier still with a syringe.

[Gruntfuggly 562]

The manual suggests that you can get all the bubbles out before putting the cap on. I guess it doesn't matter that much if there is a small air bubble at the top of the tube...

Maybe I'll get hold of a syringe from somewhere and try that.

[94eg! 834]

The manual suggests that you can get all the bubbles out before putting the cap on. I guess it doesn't matter that much if there is a small air bubble at the top of the tube...

Maybe I'll get hold of a syringe from somewhere and try that.

Is it just having a small air bubble at the top of those clear tubes after assembly that's getting you down?

If so, now you see the reason most modern shocks use bladders to separate oil from air. It's much easier to get zero air in the fluid chamber when pushing a bladder down into the oil because any air gets pushed to the side and out as the oil over-flows out of the cylinder... The 959 dampers are just a primitive design. Having some air up inside those tubes is just fine and won't hurt the performance. The trick is to get the same amount of air in each shock from left to right. This ensures similar performance from both shocks...

The only time the air in the tubes would become a problem is fi the car rolls over and sits long enough for the air to travel back into the shock cylinder. Once that happens it will get whipped up into foam once you start driving again. This will cause the dampers to feel softer. Of course once the car sits for a long time, all the air will travel back up into the tube and stay separte once more, so no permenet change has been made...

This is the principle behind the areation dampers found on the Dyna Storm and 501X (TRF buggy dampers). They have no bladder so a little air is ment to be left inside. On the TRF dampers, the top-caps have a little spot where you can add a bleed port if you wish to run no air inside the dampers whatsoever. Of course this a more advanced adjustment that is NOT discussed anywhere in the instructions...

[dimblum 1]

Is it just having a small air bubble at the top of those clear tubes after assembly that's getting you down?

If so, now you see the reason most modern shocks use bladders to separate oil from air. It's much easier to get zero air in the fluid chamber when pushing a bladder down into the oil because any air gets pushed to the side and out as the oil over-flows out of the cylinder... The 959 dampers are just a primitive design. Having some air up inside those tubes is just fine and won't hurt the performance. The trick is to get the same amount of air in each shock from left to right. This ensures similar performance from both shocks...

The only time the air in the tubes would become a problem is fi the car rolls over and sits long enough for the air to travel back into the shock cylinder. Once that happens it will get whipped up into foam once you start driving again. This will cause the dampers to feel softer. Of course once the car sits for a long time, all the air will travel back up into the tube and stay separte once more, so no permenet change has been made...

This is the principle behind the areation dampers found on the Dyna Storm and 501X (TRF buggy dampers). They have no bladder so a little air is ment to be left inside. On the TRF dampers, the top-caps have a little spot where you can add a bleed port if you wish to run no air inside the dampers whatsoever. Of course this a more advanced adjustment that is NOT discussed anywhere in the instructions...

I was wondering if there was a special part that mounts to the bleed port on the TRF dampers. It looks like you have to drill the hole clean through?? Do you have any information on how to setup the bleed port?

I have had pretty good success getting 100% of the air bubbles out of the oil before I seal the damper.. The bubbles I cannot clear out by moving the piston can be popped with the tip of an xacto knife.

Myth #6 - If you wait long enough -ALL- Tamiya RC kits will have a re-release

[terry.sc 16]

Is it just having a small air bubble at the top of those clear tubes after assembly that's getting you down?

The idea of the tube is that the shock is entirely sealed with no air at all inside. As the piston goes in and out the clear tube swells and shrinks to compensate for the change in volume. there should be no air bubble in the top.

[Live Steam Mad 17]

Myth #7 that all RC vehicles with hard plastic body shells are made of ABS

LOL

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[SuperChamp82 743]

Myth #8 - twisting wires together after 1976 made a new element ... that was both waterproof + had zero resistance 

[No Slack 454]

Myth #9 - Tamiya white plastic bearings are better compared to ball bearings.

[Mad Ax 9306]

Myth #10: all the people in this thread still have their Tamiya collection

[wtcc5 4873]

Myth #11: The TT-02 is a cheap beginner racecar.

[KEV THE REV 2307]

Myth # 12  You will be able to retire on selling your nest egg RC collection

[OCD 514]

33 minutes ago, KEV THE REV said:

Myth # 12  You will be able to retire on selling your nest egg RC collection

Ah yes, the persistent myth that buying a pile of stuff that isn't worth a thing until you liquidate it, is an "investment". Amazing how many people fall into this trap.