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Posted

sup guys? ive been seeing alot about this ez run setup(motor and esc) and wondering what all is needed to run this?

just swap out motors and esc? any soldering required? need differant power source? anything other than what would come with the kit?

thanx guys!!!(noob)

Posted

The change over to brushless is pretty simple. Swap ESC and motor as you know. You need to match the gearing to the Kv (rpm per volt) of the motor. Most times this is as simple as fit a smaller pinion (some chassis don't have gearing options). Next thing to look at is the battery packs you use. You do need 3000mAh or higher packs with a decent discharge rate (packs made up of EP or GP cells or Li-Po). Next is the battery connector. A Tamiya plug is not recommended, so you may need to solder on a high volt plug like a deans (T-plug), or similar, to your battery/ESC/charger. I've seen them for sale with no plug, with deans already fitted and with a Tamiya plug.

It's well worth the swap if the chassis is suitable. There's practically no maintainence, keep the bearings lubed is about it. Ez-Run is a great basher system. Comes with a setup card to easily program the ESC settings too.

Posted

im thinkin bout running one in my tl01. isnt a 19t pinion the smallest i can go?(thats whats on it now)

could u recomend a good "starter"/"basher" motor?

Posted

I think that on ebay there are esc, motor and card included sets.

Wondering guys, is this worth putting in a DF03 chassis? was thinking of getting one, and now am tossing about the possibility of switching my electrics from my Durga and running the EZrun in that instead. DF03 chassis looks a bit small.

Posted
I think that on ebay there are esc, motor and card included sets.

Wondering guys, is this worth putting in a DF03 chassis? was thinking of getting one, and now am tossing about the possibility of switching my electrics from my Durga and running the EZrun in that instead. DF03 chassis looks a bit small.

I have one in my DF-03, and it works excellently. Just got to get the gearing sorted, but it's pretty quick anyway...

Posted

how are these motors in a tl01? how many turns/kv should u be looking for? i really dont know what im looking for and dont want an OVER fast motor...

Posted

Hello mate.

I have been running a 9t EZrun 4300kv setup in my TL-01 with 23t pinion and speed tuned gears. It works great and i have never had a prob with it. This is with 3700Mah 7.2v 6 cell batteries.

I have just upgraded this to a 5.5t 6000kv EZrun setup with an 8.4v 3800Mah 7cell battery, which will fit perfectly with slight mod to the battery holders. This is pure lunacy as I have not been able to give it the beans completely due to the power it puts out. This is still with a 23t pinion and speed tuned gearing. I will change back to a 19t pinion and original gearing with this motor. This will give more top end and hpefully stop the thermal cutout cutting in too soon.

Advice I can give is:

1/ Do not use tamiya plugs on the 5.5t as the current it draws melted my tamiya plugs as they could not supply current quick enough. I used Deans and have no probs since.

2/ The 9t comes all ready to race out the package so you just plug it in and it goes. The 5.5T ESC needs soldering to the motor and a battery conector of choice so if your soldering is not good then 9t may be the better choice.

3/ You will need high current batteries for the 5.5t as the cheap Nimh batteries will cause stuttering due to the current struggling to cope with the demands of the ESC and Motor. This could be expensive if you do not have any already

4/ If you decide to run any battery over 7.2v 6cell Nimh or 2S Lipo, then you need to replace the fan supplied on top of the ESC as it cant cope with the extra ooooomph. Suggested method is to run a seperate fan direct from the battery. This is relevant to all EZRUN motors not just the 5.5t

Think that just about covers it from me . . . . . my advice would be to go for 9t if you just want to plug and play. If you fancy a challenge then go for the 5.5t and then we can keep in contact with ideas as to how to get the best out of them:)

Luke

P.S I heard also that the odd numbered turn units such as the 5.5, 8.5 etc etc were 360cans with bigger outer heatsinks to give them the same dimensions as the even numbered 540 cans such as 9t, 11t. So in my head, this means that the odd numbered would dissipate heat more efficiently as the heatsinks were larger??? I might have just made that up so read down a bit as I am sure someone can clear this up for me. Cheers

Posted

im looking on ebay right now. i see ezrun 13t and it says its a 380 motor with 540 size with the heat sink fins. will this be fine running a frog?

Posted

well im thinkin of goin with a 9t 4300kv brushless motor, with the ezrun esc and card, or maybe the 10t 3900kv just for safe measures(idunno yet)

the 10t should easily out perform any brushed motor right?

i was wondering, how would the 9/10t motor like a 19t pinion and stock gears? or would i need to run a 21/23t pinion and/or speed tuned gears?

so basically i was just need the ezrun combo(motor, esc(with fan), and program card) and hook it up?

i plan on getting some 4500mah nimh batteries. will the tamiya connectors handle the 9t motors amp draw?

has anyone found this 9t ezrun combo any cheaper than $75 anywhere?

Posted
EP is East Power and GP is Gold Power. Cell manufacturers.

****** i bought enrich power batteries instead of east power. now i gotta go look for some east power batteries

Posted
****** i bought enrich power batteries instead of east power. now i gotta go look for some east power batteries

ok i just did a search on google and looks like enrich power and east power are the same

Posted
well im thinkin of goin with a 9t 4300kv brushless motor, with the ezrun esc and card, or maybe the 10t 3900kv just for safe measures(idunno yet)

the 10t should easily out perform any brushed motor right?

i was wondering, how would the 9/10t motor like a 19t pinion and stock gears? or would i need to run a 21/23t pinion and/or speed tuned gears?

so basically i was just need the ezrun combo(motor, esc(with fan), and program card) and hook it up?

i plan on getting some 4500mah nimh batteries. will the tamiya connectors handle the 9t motors amp draw?

has anyone found this 9t ezrun combo any cheaper than $75 anywhere?

is there anything im missing? ezrun combo, and a 4000-5000 mah nimh batter? no need for deans plugs yet?

Posted
is there anything im missing? ezrun combo, and a 4000-5000 mah nimh batter? no need for deans plugs yet?

Yes get deans or similar, the resistance from the **** Tamiya plugs can make your car stutter as the brushless likes to draw a lot from your batteries and the tamiya connectors will create a small bottle neck. I use VP vapateck batteries £33 for 3x 3300mA on ebay. Also what car have you got some come with plastic drive shafts, you will deffo need to upgrade that.

Posted

would a 3300 mah pack power the brushless 9t? or would i be "better" off gettin a 4500 or 5000 mah battery?

its going in (what started as an hbx tl01, working its way to a full tamiya) tl01 that came full ball raced(may upgrade to better/ceramic BB) and stainless propshaft/ axles(soon to be alloy propshaft/uni.swing shafts)

so id want to avoid 21/23t pinions and speed tuned gears? stay with stock 19t pinion and spur?

Posted

I find my EZruns (all 9T) run fine on anything above a 2400. Obviously run time is reduced on the lower capacity batteries, so just get the best you can afford. The best battery I have (Intellect 4000mah LiPo gives the best punch and longest run times).

Strangely the Orion LiPo 2400 packs I have give a longer run time and more punch than the 3000 or 3300 NiMH packs I have.

Posted
the 10t should easily out perform any brushed motor right?

A 10T should be around the same performance as a 19 turn brushed motor. You can get brushed (and brushless) motors that go a lot faster than that. The difference is they require regular rebuilding.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
Yup - got mine in a DF03 too - the only issue I found was the motor will only go in one way due to the motor wires exiting from the side...

I didn't even change the gearing in mine - seems to be fine as it is.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/pictureframe.asp...008224523_3.jpg

I've actually moved the ESC behind the receiver now so it fits even easier...

Grunt, did you have any problem fitting the motor into the well the way it was? I tried fitting it into mine, but the way it is set up, the wires sticking out of the side on the end just didn't seem like a good fit, so I've opted to stick this into my db01. I really wanted to get one for my DF03RA though.

Posted
Grunt, did you have any problem fitting the motor into the well the way it was? I tried fitting it into mine, but the way it is set up, the wires sticking out of the side on the end just didn't seem like a good fit, so I've opted to stick this into my db01. I really wanted to get one for my DF03RA though.

It only goes in one way round - with the motor wires exiting towards the back of the car, so that they have to be bent back on themselves to get into the tub. Doesn't look that good, but it works...

Posted
It only goes in one way round - with the motor wires exiting towards the back of the car, so that they have to be bent back on themselves to get into the tub. Doesn't look that good, but it works...

Fitted fine in my DF-03. I'm sure there's a pic of it somehere...

Posted
Fitted fine in my DF-03. I'm sure there's a pic of it somehere...

I'd love to see that pic. Checked your profile but it's not on there. Any ideas where to find it?

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