Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just got a super clodbuster for my birthday, woooooooo.

Its just about done being put together, just the suspension and painting the shell is left, anyone have any experience with clods? do i need to do anything for it to run it well as stock besides bearings which I have.

sorry the pic was taken with my cell, should have more pics soon

clod1.jpg

Posted
I would get an ESC and better shocks to start. After that, the sky's the limit when it comes to clods! <_<

no kiddin!! im just looking around now, WOW. I had no idea. I could easily sink 500 in this beast.. not good for my wallet.

I will see how it drives stock first then go from there I guess.

Posted

i will hopefully have mine to do when i get home. Really looking forward to building it as it been many years since i built a new kit!

Posted

I would recommend replacing part B11 (the anti-rotation bracket) with a metal or aluminium alternative as these are known to break. There are aftermarket ones but I just made mine from sheet metal and drilled the holes using the original as a template.

Posted
I would recommend replacing part B11 (the anti-rotation bracket) with a metal or aluminium alternative as these are known to break. There are aftermarket ones but I just made mine from sheet metal and drilled the holes using the original as a template.

is this the servo saver? I also read that you can make it a larger diameter to make it turn sharper, I also heard you can cut the nubs off the uprights that prevent it from turning more, I was wondering if that was even safe.

Ive taken the clod for a few test runs now, the steering is waaaaay off, I have to do more adjustments.

Posted

The brackets prevent the gearboxs from rotating or twisting. You can fit larger servo savers. I have'nt tried modifying the uprights so I cant help you there, mine is totally stock in regards to steering so far.

Posted

Why new shocks?

All weight is on the axels and wheels!

If you'r useing a tubeframe (grave Digger type) or else, you mite need better shocks but standard... no...

Well the body would bounce nicer... :P:lol::lol::lol:

Badboy

Posted

well I took the super clod out for its first real run with the completed shell over the easter weekend. I was suprised at the terrain is can passover. nothing stops the clod, very impressive. However it chews right through my 1500's with the greatest of ease. I need new batteries or perhaps a bigger one or an esc that can handle two. how much battery power can the msc handle on this badboy?

I also broke the clod. one of the ball connectors in the very center bottom of the chassis that connects to the little blue swaybars is now stripped, not sure what to do about it. I will have pictures up tonight.

Posted

i've finally built mine now, well 85%, not painted the shell yet. Mine seems to do 90% of the steering from the rear, so I'm contemplating a metal-geared servo. Totally shocked by how fast it is tho, not had so much fun for ages!

Posted
Mine seems to do 90% of the steering from the rear, so I'm contemplating a metal-geared servo.

They all do. The steering geometry means it will only steer from the front if you use separate servos mounted on the gearboxes front and rear and limit the amount of rear steering.

Posted
I need new batteries or perhaps a bigger one or an esc that can handle two. how much battery power can the msc handle on this badboy?

As I use 4500mA batt in mine and theres no problemo... I run for about 20 or so...

Badboy

Posted
well I took the super clod out for its first real run with the completed shell over the easter weekend. I was suprised at the terrain is can passover. nothing stops the clod, very impressive. However it chews right through my 1500's with the greatest of ease. I need new batteries or perhaps a bigger one or an esc that can handle two. how much battery power can the msc handle on this badboy?

I also broke the clod. one of the ball connectors in the very center bottom of the chassis that connects to the little blue swaybars is now stripped, not sure what to do about it. I will have pictures up tonight.

Yeh i love the fact that the clod will roll over most things in its path! its just the fact that the stock shockers make such a awful racket (squeaking and rattling :( ) is the only reason i would change the shockers for oil ones.

i see you running the MSC. i wouldn't like to go higher than two sport tuned motors on a car this heavy (With the MSC) It would probably fry it in no time at all! :o

But if your are running the stock 540s in your clod, and you have two spare Teu 101bk (i think most of us have! :lol: ) and using a receiver Y splitter lead, you can have one speedo controlling the rear motor and one controlling the front! Just remember to set them up exactly the same (I.E same amount forward, reverse, brake etc)

Here is a pic to give you some idea.

fxwgpj.jpg

With this setup you can use one set of batts to power both motors (just make yourself up a batt y lead)

here is a pic.

2ecd8gz.jpg

I get far more runtime with this single batt setup than i did with the MSC on a single batt (6 mins vs 12 mins on std 1500 nicads) it don't effect the power/speed ether (witch is a bonus)

You can also run two batts (one for the front, one for the rear) this gives more power and runtime but its makes the clod heavier.

11j9192.jpg

I might make a "how to" just so fellow stock clodders can get an idea how to do away with the stock MSC on the cheep! ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recent Status Updates

×
×
  • Create New...