mickycivic 0 Posted April 13, 2009 Hey all. Got a new motor and esc coming for my lunchbox now to add more power and fun(!), so am going ahead with the 3rd shock mod....... so need a little advice please. Mounting it to the chassis with the 'U' bracket ain't a problem, but I've seen a couple of ways of mounting it to the gear box, one being with another U bracket, the other being cutting away a piece of the plastic away, and sliding the shock onto the gearbox, and then bolting it all back together. Just wondered really whats the best/easiest/most reliable way of mounting it to the gearbox?? Actually while I am here - will a super stock BZ run on a hornet pinion very well? Will it still wheely or will the torque not be there? Cheers all. Mike. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny Retro 12 Posted April 13, 2009 I've done it both ways (fnarr fnarr ), both seem just as effective, but using the gearbox pivot as the shock mount is neater, to that would be my preference. Unless you've put much smaller wheels on, a Hornet (18T?) pinion will make the motor ludicrously overgeared & you'll probably melt something - you'd be far better off sticking with the stock LB pinion. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mickycivic 0 Posted April 13, 2009 Oooh, get you! Haha! Cool nice one. Is either method any easier than the other? Nah I am just running the LB chromes on it, so standard diameter. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TA-Mark 195 Posted April 13, 2009 The standard brass pinion is ideal for everything from the silvercan to a Brushless 5700Kv. Why on earth would you ever want to put a soft alloy pinion in it? To use the 'U' bracket both top and bottom will require a shorter damper than if you cut the gearbox and use the hinge pin as the bottom mount. 3rd damper mod will do very little with the pogo sticks all still there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mickycivic 0 Posted April 13, 2009 Ok cool thanks, just checking! Already sorted on the proper shocks, got some tamiya oil dampers already fitted on all the corners, TONNES better than standard! Cheers, Mike. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mickycivic 0 Posted April 16, 2009 Whats the best size to use? Was looking at a 75mm shock? Is about right? Thanks again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TA-Mark 195 Posted April 17, 2009 I used Top Force dampers for all 5 dampers. Same size as the ones listed in the manual. $15US a pair on eBay. I had heaps of them laying around when I upgraded my buggys to alloy DF-03 rears all round. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mickycivic 0 Posted April 17, 2009 Is that part no 58100? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TA-Mark 195 Posted April 17, 2009 Is that part no 58100? That is the whole Top Force kit. Try part #50305, as listed in the Lunchbox manual. They fit many chassis. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blacque Jacque 4 Posted April 17, 2009 That is the whole Top Force kit. Try part #50305, as listed in the Lunchbox manual. They fit many chassis. The only trouble you may have there is that part no. is out of production & represents the yellow CVA parts. 50520 CVA Short Shock II is the new version with black shock bodies. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TA-Mark 195 Posted April 17, 2009 The only trouble you may have there is that part no. is out of production & represents the yellow CVA parts.50520 CVA Short Shock II is the new version with black shock bodies. Yeah I got the yellow ones. Looks great with my dark red truck body. I did use different shafts and pistons to the standard one piece shafts though. Need to do up a video of my VLB at full noise around my track, awesome fun. Lots of #50520's on eBay... ~$17US for a set of 4. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mickycivic 0 Posted April 18, 2009 Yeah I have the yellow CVA's on mine too, must admit they do look good just tucked under the blue shell. I want to try some different springs though, want some softer ones. What springs to you guys normally use on your LBs? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TA-Mark 195 Posted April 19, 2009 Yeah I have the yellow CVA's on mine too, must admit they do look good just tucked under the blue shell.I want to try some different springs though, want some softer ones. What springs to you guys normally use on your LBs? I'm using the Top Force ones which would be the same as in #50305 or #50520 sets with the clamp style pre-tension ring on 4 of the dampers. Small amount of pre-tension on the front and none on the rear. I left the ring off of the 5th damper mod. These springs are already soft, too soft for the buggys they come from. I have #200 weight damper oil in them. I have added 300grams of lead weights to the rear of the chassis so the rear suspension will work. Standard, all of the rear weight is unsprung being in the diff. Without the weights in the chassis the rear bounces. I do the same thing on my Grasshopper (same rear suspension setup). I also use a 500gram Ni-MH pack. Weight is not an issue with the MambaMax pushing them along. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Got sand? 0 Posted April 20, 2009 Mount the shock bottom to the axle going through the gearbox,this way it`s stronger and lines up better with the movement in the slots. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stonemole 0 Posted April 20, 2009 For some reason i have durga shocks on mine (a guess of were did i get them) need to do the 3rd shock mod. however after a intersting afternoon with the GH and it bouncing yesterday im curious if the extra weight works or will make a big difference to performance , the Hopper has a 13x2 in it and the 10t pinion and motor mount. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mickycivic 0 Posted April 22, 2009 Does the GH gearbox cope with that ok? Can imagine its a bit of a handful! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TA-Mark 195 Posted April 23, 2009 Does the GH gearbox cope with that ok? Can imagine its a bit of a handful! Grasshopper, Hornet, Lunchbox and Pumpkin all use the same gearbox. I've found them pretty strong with nothing breaking after many hours of use with Lunchbox motor mounts, Lunchbox 10T pinions and high rpm/power motors bolted on. I've also done the CRP FX-10 double wishbone suspension mod to the front of both. More steering lock and no more bumpsteer on either Grasshopper or Lunchbox chassis. It doesn't bottom the front suspension out when driving in reverse anymore either. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mymonsterbeetleisbroken 16 Posted April 23, 2009 I've also done the CRP FX-10 double wishbone suspension mod to the front of both. So thats what they are.. FX-10 parts! All this time I've been searching for CRP grasshopper suspension with no items found Just bought a set. How did you mount the front shocks? ed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Got sand? 0 Posted April 23, 2009 The reason LB/Pumpkin front ends bottom out while reversing is most people use way too soft springs on them.The springs should be strong enough to support the weight of the car.Think about this -if theyre not able to do that they will surely be bottoming out on bumps all the time.This chassis has fairly short suspension travel and you really need to use stiffer springs on the front to make the most out of it.Having said this where can I find pics of the double wishbones setup?lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dimmu1975 0 Posted April 26, 2009 I use the original spring for the 3rd shock mod and it fits perfect :-) a little movie to show my mods => Share this post Link to post Share on other sites