Spray Tinting Windows?

[Spetz83]

Hey guys,

I bought that "Smoke" spray paint to tint windows.

I tried out quickly on an extra piece of the body (the wheel well that I cut out) and it didn't turn out too good.

In the light you could see through little bubbles etc and it was too dark

How do people get the windows tinted, but so that you can still see through them, and for the windows to smooth etc?

Help is greatly appreciated!

[WillyChang]

i use PS31 to do a smoky/hazy/steamed-up tinted look.

You just go PPSSSSTTTT for a split second then WAIT 10-20s before doing it again. Repeat 3-5 coats then STOP, that's enough.

if you want a transparent see-thru tint that's a LOT harder

you have to spray the paint until its damp, which lets it flow and not set up into the steamed-up look

if it does just spray more (but yeah too much and it'll be very dark)

must be very careful to avoid drips

also if you're spraying onto a light body colour like white/pink/yellow the PS31 can darken the paint; best to seal with a coat thick white/silver/black

you could also use tint film can ask for scraps from a window tinting workshop. Good hardware stores also sell tint film.

[balongbalong]

destroyed 3 good bodies due to this spray.

No matter how light i try to spray the windows, they ended with bubbles. there's just too many water mixed in the smoke paint can in my opinion.

thank goodness tamiya released tinted window stickers for newer models like the BMW 3 series, Z4, Nissan GTR. otherwise all my car will have no tint effect

[Spetz83]

Actually I have the tinted window stickers but I just thought it didn't really look realistic enough.

I noticed in the Tamiya website the pictures of their cars all have tinted see-through windows, not stickers.

Is it impossible to get a good spray tint? Should I just use the stickers?

[twisty]

I have used just black to very good tint effect before,just a very short burst from a couple of feet away and leave it.

If it is a light coloured shell,it is best to seal it with a coat of sliver metallic around the windows before doing the windows,also make sure you let the main colour/colours dry hard first before doing the windows.

[94eg!]

I've never seen anybody have good luck with Tamiya's smoke paint. Even the TS version ran like crazy when I tried to paint some model windows.

Keep trying on some scrap pieces of Lexan. Perhaps if you just do an extreamly light mist coating. Otherwise give some airbrush versions a try. You can mix up a dirty clear to make window tint...

[Bluefoot]

I've never had a good result from using window tinting sprays. Sounds like the window tinting film might be the way to go.

[balongbalong]

Actually I have the tinted window stickers but I just thought it didn't really look realistic enough.

I noticed in the Tamiya website the pictures of their cars all have tinted see-through windows, not stickers.

Is it impossible to get a good spray tint? Should I just use the stickers?

i suggest just use the stickers, to me they look real, just a pain to install as its very sticky and easily to stretch. once you started there's no removing and realigning without stretching the sticker

try the real tint like what they suggested

[WillyChang]

when you guys talk about "bubbles" do you mean actual air-bubbles (=light spots) or splattering (=dark spots) ??

if your can is splattering it means you're painting too cold or your paintcan is stale

i always warm my PS31 under hot tap water until the can is 20-25degC during shaking

then keep it warm during painting by putting it in my pocket when not spraying

warm = more can pressure, thinner paint

PS31 cannot be stripped easily though, its real polycarb paint

if you want something that can be removed easier, try Tamiya's X-bottle Smoke.

Can be washed off with methylated spirits if you don't like it.

[Spetz83]

I'm gonna try warming up the can and spray tinting it, and if that turns out bad I guess I'll just use the tinted stickers

The tinting film seems like a good idea but I don't even know where there is a window tinter here

[TA-Mark]

The tinting film seems like a good idea but I don't even know where there is a window tinter here

Search on eBay for it. I see heaps of window tint film listed on there. Most auto shops will sell DIY window films too.

Spraying clear paints are the hardest to do. I use an airbrush for nearly all paint jobs and strain my paint to remove any blobs. Apply in very thin layers and let it 'flash off' between coats. Getting an even coating takes some practice. I've used the paint tint method a few times on acrylic windows from static kits when the window piece is scratched or frosted from the previous owner using the wrong glues. I would only call them 90% successful but still better than what I started with. For new window plastic I would use tint film.

[mansellpants]

i always warm my PS31 under hot tap water until the can is 20-25degC during shaking

then keep it warm during painting by putting it in my pocket when not spraying

warm = more can pressure, thinner paint

I agree with WillyChang, you need to get the paint can warm and make sure you shake the can for at least 2 mins. The trouble with smoke spray is that it goes on near transparent (like clear coat) then gets darker as it dries. Its best to do a very light mist coat, then leave that for about half an hour to see if you want it darker. Then just repeat the process of warming the can, shaking for 2 mins spraying light mist coat until you get the right shade.

Colin.

[Spetz83]

I think from what I gather, it's near impossible to use spray tint successfully?

I'll check how much tint film costs, hopefully it's not too much, as i'm only going to need about 20 square cm of it

[94eg!]

Tint film is not expensive and you can buy small sheets at almost any autoparts store. The problem is that it's VERY difficult to form around compound curves.

My local tint guy rubs a sheet of fabric softern on a bad compound curve window before trimming the film. Then he wets the window with soapy water and lays the tint on (still with backing). He then squeegees the film flat while gently blasting the raised portions with a heat gun to shrink these raised areas. Once formed properly and laying flat, he cleans the window once again, sprays it with soapy water, peels the backing off the film, and lays it in place. You will still get raised areas, so small blast of heat to help activate the glue may be necissary...

[WillyChang]

tint film is not elastic and won't stretch. it'll do touringcar shell windows ok as they're flat enough

but don't even try with something like a Thundershot or an airplane bubble canopy

heating the film with a heatgun is pretty risky to lexan too

re using PS31, if you're splattering a lot even when warmed it could be "stale"

cans that are more than 60% empty will splatter more

also used cans that have been stored upright for long time will leak pressure

i've been weighing my cans from full to empty to estimate how much is left in each

usually can get 8-10 tourers from each can of PS31... but when its a "good" one i'm doing, i'll usually go open a new can

[homerboi]

A trick that was passed forward to me when spraying with rattle can window tint:

place the aersol can upright in a bath of hot water (not too long) and allow it to warmup.

shake the rattle can as required and then use.

I tested this on some lexan pieces - It comes out much more evenly and nice.