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Db-01 Ball Diff Melted

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Here is a great link I found which explains it in a little more detail: http://www.geocities.com/agusyt/OneWays.doc

Please let me know if you need more info or photos of my one-way installed..

Hope this helps.

Dan

Hi Dan,

Thank you for the explanation. I already have a oneway frontdiff and reading the article made me doubt purchasing a center oneway. Here is the part that made me doubt

[Q]

The presence of a front diff, however, makes the center one-way somewhat of a compromise between having no one-ways at all and the aforementioned front one-way configuration.

Does the writer mean that when you have a oneway frontdiff the advantages of this are minimized by placing a center oneway??

Thanks

Maurits

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Looks like everything concerning ball diffs has been covered, good job fellas.

Was this your first ball diff build??

Don't use thread lock neither.

When the diff is built correctly and adjusted you will have no problems (besides long term wear).

Have fun!

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Hi Dan,

Thank you for the explanation. I already have a oneway frontdiff and reading the article made me doubt purchasing a center oneway. Here is the part that made me doubt

[Q]

The presence of a front diff, however, makes the center one-way somewhat of a compromise between having no one-ways at all and the aforementioned front one-way configuration.

Does the writer mean that when you have a oneway frontdiff the advantages of this are minimized by placing a center oneway??

Thanks

Maurits

Installing double one-ways shouldn't make a huge difference in handeling. I don't know why, but the pros say it makes the drivetrain more effecient allowing slightly more top-speed. My friend runs a double one-way setup on his touring car and said it made the car a little smoother off-throttle into turns (vs the front one-way only). If your not racing, I would say don't bother. I know in touring, when they use a front one-way, they always use a center one-way...

A front diff combined with a center one-way is supposed to have slightly less agressive turn-in when off-throttle cause you still have a front diff action. It will also be a little less powerfull when accelerating away from a corner cause the of the front diff action.

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Hi Dan,

Thank you for the explanation. I already have a oneway frontdiff and reading the article made me doubt purchasing a center oneway. Here is the part that made me doubt

[Q]

The presence of a front diff, however, makes the center one-way somewhat of a compromise between having no one-ways at all and the aforementioned front one-way configuration.

Does the writer mean that when you have a oneway frontdiff the advantages of this are minimized by placing a center oneway??

Thanks

Maurits

Maurits,

I can see how the writer made it sound confusing. Front one-ways and Center one-ways should not be combined. Your car should strictly use only a front 'or' a center. In fact, the 'front one way' will cancel out the benefit of the 'center one-way' if they are installed at the same time.. Here is why:

* A front one way will entirely replace your front differential - Your front diff will essentially no longer be a differential at all, it will just be one giant one-way bearing. So there will be no power transfer between the wheels to alternate traction control.. This sounds bad, but it is actually really good if you drive on high grip surfaces like asphalt or carpet. It keeps equal power to both front wheels at the same time on high traction surfaces and can grip through the corners a little better.

* A center one way is attached at the layshaft, so your front differential is still in place to transfer power between the wheels when they slip.. This is the ideal solution of you are driving on lower grip surfaces like dirt or grass. You get the benefit of a one way and your front diff at the same time..

Front One-Way = high grip surfaces

Center One-Way = lower grip surfaces

Using either one way on an opposite surface will cause its function to under perform

It took me a while to understand the differences myself.. I hope this explanation helps.

Dan

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...In fact, the 'front one way' will cancel out the benefit of the 'center one-way' if they are installed at the same time.. Here is why:

This is true that adding a front one-way to a center one-way setup will cancel out the diff action. But adding a center one-way to a front one-way does not. It actually adds a little more off power steering. There is a noticable difference...

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This is true that adding a front one-way to a center one-way setup will cancel out the diff action. But adding a center one-way to a front one-way does not. It actually adds a little more off power steering. There is a noticable difference...

94eg!

Thanks for the info.. This is the first time I have heard about adding a center one way to enhance the effect of a front one way.. Hmmm, now you got my brain burning :blink:

I'm picturing the one ways interacting with each other... It makes sense that combining both would allow for even more off power rotation since the resistance of the belt pulley would be eliminated.. That's pretty cool!

If I ever run on-road, I might give it a try..

Dan

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Dual one-ways are standard equipment on the TRF415 MSX and MSXX (non Rheinard editions). Of course that's for on-road. I don't know much about off-road racing...

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As where talking about Durga Diffs and I have just got myself my first buggy, a Durga :-p i just wanted to ask about the synthetic rubber cement to glue the diff plates on. Can you use vulcanizing rubber cement similar to that of puncture repair kits? Some suggest thin CA glue (super Glue) but super glue is brittle and to get longer life out of the diff plates it would be nice to get them off again with ease and just flip them over later in the diff's life. I feeling reluctant to use super glue and i guess i could find the tamiya labled synthetic rubber cement but since i have the pucture repair type glue instantly at hand im making an educated guess that this is the same type of glue?

Any ideas?

Thanks

VV

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Mate, you wont be able to flip these diff rings over once stuck down with glue.

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Mate, you wont be able to flip these diff rings over once stuck down with glue.

I feel with the rubber cement you will as its not as hard as super glue, this is why i feel Tamiya suggest synthetic rubber cement and not super glue. My question of using the vulcanised rubber puncture repair glue is that i reckon its the same as the Tamiya synthetic rubber cement. You should be able to peel off the diff plate and clean it quite easily if using synthetic rubber cement, If you use super glue then your right you wont be able to swap them over.

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You should be able to get some sort of rubber-cement product at your local hardware store. Check the plumbing section. You should have something similar to Goop or Shoe-Goo. It's clear silicone adhessive like caulking...

BTW: Yes you can clean the stuff off metal surfaces later on. It's always a good idea to sand the diff rings before installing them anyways, and that will certainly take off any remenants of adhesive...

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I tried Shoe Goo once as an alternative to attach the diff rings (after my super glue seal cracked for the first time). The Shoe Goo held good at first, but then broke free pretty easily causing the plates to slip :( - I then went back to super glue for a while :unsure:

I thought Shoe Goo would be an excellent bond, but it appears it has a harder time holding onto parts when they move laterally. In the end I switched over to the 501X diff joints which don't require any adhesive for the diff rings (only a thin layer of diff grease)...

The availability of the 501X diff joints has been low (pretty hard to find in stock anywhere).. The good news is that 3Racing finally released their DB-01 Aluminum Diff Joints, and they should be much easier to get (and cost less). Here is one link for the new 3Racing joints... I have not used these, so I do not know how they compare to the Tamiya 501x joints...

http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/produc...roducts_id=3969

Hope this helps.

Dan

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The availability of the 501X diff joints has been low (pretty hard to find in stock anywhere).. The good news is that 3Racing finally released their DB-01 Aluminum Diff Joints, and they should be much easier to get (and cost less). Here is one link for the new 3Racing joints... I have not used these, so I do not know how they compare to the Tamiya 501x joints...

http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/produc...roducts_id=3969

Hope this helps.

Dan

That's a great find.

Personally I still cannot figure out why Tamiya went away from the "Keyed" diff rings of the older DF03 & 415 cars. No glue was required weather it was plastic or metal outdrives. And you had total piece of mind they would never slip either...

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That's a great find.

Personally I still cannot figure out why Tamiya went away from the "Keyed" diff rings of the older DF03 & 415 cars. No glue was required weather it was plastic or metal outdrives. And you had total piece of mind they would never slip either...

94eg! you are absolutely right! I could never figure out why Tamiya didn't use 'keyed' rings?? The flat keyed part for the rings were molded into the plastic parts for the DB-01 as well as the 501X diff joints.. It's like they planned to use them all along??

My only guess is that they were concerned about the tiny bit of extra metal causing a balance or vibration issue with the diffs.. I guess we will never know :unsure:

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As where talking about Durga Diffs and I have just got myself my first buggy, a Durga :-p i just wanted to ask about the synthetic rubber cement to glue the diff plates on.

Vince the washers just need something to stop them slipping. Super glue will do the job fine, it holds them in place and they can be knocked off when required. An alternative that I have used often in the past is Evo Stik contact adhesive. Holds in place, can easily be peeled off again and a dip in cellulose thinners will clean them up for flipping over.

As for why Tamiya don't use keyed rings, there's an awful lot of cars out there that don't use keyed washers, Tamiya was very much the exception. All the others (including the 501X) also don't need the washers to be glued to the holders to give drive, almost all either recommend putting nothing between the diff washer and holder or to use just a small smear of diff grease.

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