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blackdogbro

58441 Rough Rider "Buggy Champ" Re-release

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i'll have mine on monday...so i get to suffer all weekend...i will be blowing up u.p.s.com with my tracking # and refreshing ;)

F5 F5 F5 F5 F5 F5 is it heer yet? F5 F5 F5 F5

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:lol: You guys are all killing me. Due to the recession I can't afford to indulge in my Tamiya collecting at the moment and I was sooooo looking forward to getting an SRB. I've got multiple NIB kits sitting around just waiting for me to get my hands on them. Keep the pictures coming in though so I can continue to fantasize about what may have been. Curse you Tamiya for re-releasing this now. ;)

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:( You guys are all killing me. Due to the recession I can't afford to indulge in my Tamiya collecting at the moment and I was sooooo looking forward to getting an SRB. I've got multiple NIB kits sitting around just waiting for me to get my hands on them. Keep the pictures coming in though so I can continue to fantasize about what may have been. Curse you Tamiya for re-releasing this now. ;)

well...think positive...this(as i have heard)is not a limited production kit :lol:

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well...think positive...this(as i have heard)is not a limited production kit ;)

i dig into my savings for it AHAHAH

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My arrived today from Fusion, well sort of.

I knew it was coming today but I already had a dentist appointment at 09.15 so I went. I was out for 30 minutes and guess what was on the doormat when I got in, yep, a card saying they'd tried to deliver.

Had to wait until 19.00 to pick it up from Northampton but at least it gave me time for my face to come back to life.

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Congrats to all on their new Buggy Champs.

A quick Q for all you lucky guys doing their new build...

I've got myself a set of the new uprights but the threads to attach the ballheads for the steering rods are different. They're much bigger but not big enough for the standard sized ballheads I've got in my spares box. I've tried them but they're too big. What size threads does it have? Or which screws bag has the right ballheads in it?

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Congrats to all on their new Buggy Champs.

A quick Q for all you lucky guys doing their new build...

I've got myself a set of the new uprights but the threads to attach the ballheads for the steering rods are different. They're much bigger but not big enough for the standard sized ballheads I've got in my spares box. I've tried them but they're too big. What size threads does it have? Or which screws bag has the right ballheads in it?

Hello..

The screw bag you need is "B". It also has the nice black screws .You may need to buy the new ballheads and ball plate if you want to have the best results.

Nice to see so many people enjoy the new Buggy Champ but the vintage magic is lost for me....

I order a big number of these kits to use and abuse ...I can as many spares as I want..!! ;)

Regards.!

Thanos

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Tower hobbies are now shipping back ordered buggy champs.

My cost to Australia, with Tower Hobbies $75 promotional discount and Tower Hobbies Saver Club shipping, was less than the one I got from Stella Models, which is unbelievable.

AUD$400 shipped!

Regards,

Luke Jenner

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The screw bag you need is "B". It also has the nice black screws .You may need to buy the new ballheads and ball plate if you want to have the best results.

Thanks for the info. I'm working on getting them but it's a waiting game at the moment. Waiting for payday. I'm kinda broke! :)

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I've just finished mine and I'm in the process of painting. Does the radio box just sit loose on the those rubber mounts or do you tighten them up a bit to bulge them out? Great build though nothing like what I'm used too.

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I've just finished mine and I'm in the process of painting. Does the radio box just sit loose on the those rubber mounts or do you tighten them up a bit to bulge them out? Great build though nothing like what I'm used too.

you need to tighten the well nuts until they bulge and secure the radio box.

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you need to tighten the well nuts until they bulge and secure the radio box.

Be careful though, too tight and you will crack the case! :)

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So after a couple of entertaining evenings' building I finally have a running chassis (not done the body yet - need paint and dry weather). It's certainly different, and I;m really not sure what to do about the dampers. they either leak loads, or if fully tightened lock solid. this is consistent to how an incompressible fluid should behave, so I'm not sure how exactly these dampers are supposed to behave when built and performing optimally.

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I used tamiya soft damper grease in mine. The front pair work great, one of the rears is so-so and the other one as you say just locks all the way down and doesn't really move. I think they could do with a spring on the shaft to move em back out. Glad it wasn't just me!

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I tightened my radio box well nuts front and rear just enough so that I could hold the car up by the radio box and the chassis would not start to slip out. Any more than that risks cracking radio boxes just like when you get an original on Ebay and they are almost invariably cracked as being a 13 year old kid we didn't know about these things LOL so we used to tighten things way too much.

I'm after radio boxes and bumpers and bodies like a lot of guys on here. LOL.

I built SRB dampers from NIP and made sure to follow the instruction manual to the letter and used Unibond Silicone Sealant (green / white tube) which does NOT cure with Acetic acid yet grips to anything incredibly well, and made sure to let the sealant cure for a FULL 24 hours and none of the 4 dampers have ever leaked the stock kit oil out of them (but the XLT they are fitted to is a shelf queen so no wear yet).

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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Since Alistair G. mentioned silicone sealant, I figured I'd throw in some information that may be useful. I recently went through a lot of trouble to find "neutral cure" silicone sealant in my hometown and came up empty. The reason I wanted it was because Tamiya discontinued their little tubes of white silicone sealant and my last tube hardened completely inside the tube long ago. I was about to rebuild my Super Champ from scratch which meant that the gearcase halves needed sealant to hold in the oil and grease.

Basically, "neutral cure" means that the silicone sealant won't release acetic acid during the curing process and therefore it won't smell like vinegar. It is a bit more friendly to work with indoors, plus it won't react with plastics or metal that it comes in contact with (at least not to the same degree that normal silicone sealant will react). Mind you, I'm not saying don't ever use regular silicone sealant, but I made up my mind as to what I wanted for my build.

I received a lot of empty stares from local hardware store employees when I asked them if they carried neutral cure sealant; most of them had never heard of such a thing. I finally gave up and bought it online. The brand I got was DAP Silicone Plus Premium Rubber Sealant (part no. 08770). It comes in a 10.1 tube designed for a standard caulk gun. It's a rather large quantity, but I don't know of a smaller size available.

Once I cut the nozzle and punctured the foil seal, I took a sniff. Incredibly, it smells exactly like the old Tamiya white silicone sealant. I am convinced that Tamiya white silicone sealant was simply neutral cure silicone sealant. The smell brought back memories of me sealing up the same gearcase halves in 1984.

So there you have it. Hope this info helps someone.

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shouldn't be that hard finding it... your hardware store must really pay peanuts

here there's usually about 3-5 different tubes at any hardware store or even K-Mart/Big-W

quite a few are neutral-cure &/or "oxygen sensor safe"

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Mine leak some what to, not a lot but enough to attract dirt and dust etc if i was runnning it, ok when staning but as soon as you work suspension get it all over the shafts and eventually

will run down i guess if i was running it!

I planned to try associated green slime shock grease on the seal but forgot to get some on my last order from modelsport doh!

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I got my " neutral cure " Silicone Sealant from B&Q in NW England incase anyone wants any. It's by Unibond and it's in the green & white tube. Picture of it below. BTW they changed the labelling slighly in recent times. Price = 10 quid. I use a standard cartridge gun to decant the stuff into a syringe for application (see below).

It does NOT smell of Acetic acid when curing but I can't tell you if it smells like SRB sealant since I never owned an SRB NIB.

To apply it easily to the gearbox seams / edges , I use the plastic 20ml syringes available from Ebay with tube end (1mm hole approx.). They are not stunningly cheap and if you leave the sealant in them for ages they go hard but if you clean them out once in a while you can get good use out of them.

I use White Spirit ( Mineral Spirits ) to "dissolve" old sealant with.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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Alistair, in what way did you apply the sealant to the dampers?

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Alistair, in what way did you apply the sealant to the dampers?

Going from memory and also what is in the F150 XLT manual, I put the Piston through the Piston Guide , then put on the O Ring , then pushed the Piston through the Oil Cap, then screwed the Piston into the Piston End and did up the grub screw and put in the Shock Absorber Bushing and then applied Silicone Sealant all over the threads of the Oil Cap , and screwed on the damper Cylinder and then wiped off the excess sealant and then left it to cure for 24 hours. Then I came back to it, filled the Cylinder with the stock kit damper oil (these were NIP dampers) up to just below the screw threads making sure not to ever get any oil on the internal threads, then pushed the Piston up and down quite slowly to remove any air bubbles whilst removing any excess oil with the syringe, waited several minutes until any air bubbles visible were gone as best I could, then applied Silisone Sealant to the threads of the Shock Absorber top. Then I put the Shock Absorber top on and wiped off the excess sealant and then tested it for damping by pushing up and down quite slowly. If it was not hydraulically locked then I left it for 24 hours to cure and then came back to it and considered it to be done.

The shocks worked and never leaked even slightly. Shocks were correct way up as shown in XLT manual. However as expected from the very small diameter scale body, the damping action was very poor. If I were doing it today I would use the most viscous Silicone Shock Oil that I could get my hands on. Otherwise the dampers are more of an ornament rather than being practical usable items. I also weakened (twisted) the Torsion bars so that the rear suspension springing is as soft as you see in the Tamiya Promotional vintage video for the XLT and not bouncy and hard like you see in the RR, SS promo' video.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

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