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blackdogbro

58441 Rough Rider "Buggy Champ" Re-release

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So how well are they selling on the "street" then Shopkeeper?

I only have 4 left... :blink: I think most enthusiasts pre-ordered this one though, I suspect it'll be slow and steady from here on in.

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Just uploaded the list to our site this evening, I'm pretty sure the spares will start flowing within the next couple of weeks:

I hacve a brief question.

do you know if this item:

"Tamiya 51386 Body Set for 58441 Buggy Champ 2009" means the main shell on it's own as a spare part, or is it a body set with all the required parts (shell, "A" Sprue, screws, stickers) equivalent to the other tamiya body sets?

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I only have 4 left... :) I think most enthusiasts pre-ordered this one though, I suspect it'll be slow and steady from here on in.

...which would still, in my opinion, give enough encouragement for a re-re of one of the other SRBs too.

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well, I just took mine out for it's first "proper" run and it was fun, though the car proved Ralph Nader right, rear-engine and swing axles is a recipe for rollovers, and I rolled mine, and may therefore have won the dubious honour of being the first TCer to break a buggy champ 2009 (top light mount snapped off). good job the full bodyset (according to the other thread) is going to be available so i can have a shelf-queen shell and a roller.

ah well, it's fundamental nature of the hobby. running means risk of damage and if I wanted static models I'd collect diecasts :-)

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I hacve a brief question.

do you know if this item:

"Tamiya 51386 Body Set for 58441 Buggy Champ 2009" means the main shell on it's own as a spare part, or is it a body set with all the required parts (shell, "A" Sprue, screws, stickers) equivalent to the other tamiya body sets?

If you check out Tamiyausa.com you'll see a complete bodyset with sticker headlights driver and body!!! (it's painted in the picture)

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=51873

Badboy

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Just watching the vid and saw that it's not as bouncy as the older one... Or em I wrong?

Badboy

you're correct bad boy, definitely less bouncy. Bigger volume shocks probably are the reason.

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well, I just took mine out for it's first "proper" run and it was fun, though the car proved Ralph Nader right, rear-engine and swing axles is a recipe for rollovers, and I rolled mine, and may therefore have won the dubious honour of being the first TCer to break a buggy champ 2009 (top light mount snapped off). good job the full bodyset (according to the other thread) is going to be available so i can have a shelf-queen shell and a roller.

ah well, it's fundamental nature of the hobby. running means risk of damage and if I wanted static models I'd collect diecasts :-)

OUCH! My first run will be with a kamtech SS lexan body.. Much safer that way. They also make an RR body! I plan on running the abs body only on sand.. Less likely to roll over and if it does, no real damage. Dirt and asfalt are not friendly to the SRB.. Especially without a diff!

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OUCH! My first run will be with a kamtech SS lexan body.. Much safer that way. They also make an RR body! I plan on running the abs body only on sand.. Less likely to roll over and if it does, no real damage. Dirt and asfalt are not friendly to the SRB.. Especially without a diff!

As long you´re not conering to fast iy wouldn't be any problem!

I run my #537 R/W SS baja on asfalt and as long as I droped the throttle in neutral it conered really good without tipping over.

But as soon as I was in foreward It became a two wheeled car...

Badboy

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Okay.....

who is going to be the popular person who scans and modifies the white bits of the decals to be all white with no other writing on them? :)

Where's Willy?

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I have always had a question to ask about this car so here it is.......Why does it have so much positive camber in the rear ,and can it be changed?

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I have always had a question to ask about this car so here it is.......Why does it have so much positive camber in the rear ,and can it be changed?

I to have wondered that, as its looks odd so much, but is there for a reason i guess due to the suspension geometry, only way to change i can

see would be new cast wish bones with different angles of the end axle i think lol!

Does feel wierd when one pushes down on rear the tyres just grip, i would imagine it be ok on loose/rough terrain!

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I have always had a question to ask about this car so here it is.......Why does it have so much positive camber in the rear ,and can it be changed?

Its the rear "torsion bars" that provide the spring to the shocks. The strength is such that it forces the cars up to thier maximum suspension travel.

To get rid of it is easy, cut the torsion bar - you need the brass axel part to fit the wishbones - and use shocks with springs.

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I to have wondered that, as its looks odd so much, but is there for a reason i guess due to the suspension geometry, only way to change i can

see would be new cast wish bones with different angles of the end axle i think lol!

Does feel wierd when one pushes down on rear the tyres just grip, i would imagine it be ok on loose/rough terrain!

As on old VW's the wheels where tilded outward

vw30-running-chassis_1MC_PakWheels(com).jpg

But as soon weight where put onto the chassie the wheels where straiten out (?)

(did enybody understand that? Wonder if I got it myself)

Badboy

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If you want some more history about:

RoughRider,

Sand Scorcher

Super Champ

Blazing Blazer

Then look at this website its http://www.themint400.com

Also if you search youtube you will get some awsome videos.

Paul

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Okay.....

who is going to be the popular person who scans and modifies the white bits of the decals to be all white with no other writing on them? :D

Where's Willy?

i'm here :D

wanna be let in on a little secret?

paint your whole prepped shell with some coats of white then cut out the whole white panels and apply them as a mask;

then coat over with your colour coat. Remove mask then clearcoat if wanted.

i'm getting stuck into drawing up some tyre decals ^_^:)

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I have always had a question to ask about this car so here it is.......Why does it have so much positive camber in the rear ,and can it be changed?

If the suspension arms were level at their lowest point you would have less ground clearance.

The simple fix is to cut out a 1mm thick square of plastic or metal, see where the suspension arm hits the gearbox casting and use either glue or double sided tape to stick the square between the down stop on the arm and the gearbox. BITD some of us used to drill and tap a hole in the gearbox where the down stop hit, so you could use a grub screw as a ride height adjuster.

Other methods used were putting spacers in the shocks to limit travel, twisting the torsion bars to soften them so it sat level or replacing the torsion bars with a coilover conversion. Or for a quick and dirty bodge a tie wrap around the shock mounting bolts and pulled in until the arms were level, held in place by smaller tie wraps to keep it in place. It has the advantage of easily being adjustable or removed.

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Interesting about the suspension think i will run it first as it and see how it handles down the park!

I just charged of my 6.6v Life pack and it only took 10 mins is that for real?

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If you want some more history about:

RoughRider,

Sand Scorcher

Super Champ

Blazing Blazer

Then look at this website its http://www.themint400.com

Also if you search youtube you will get some awsome videos.

Paul

Here's some cool vids from the SS/RR/SC/BB era!!! (don't mind to read unless you read swedish)

http://rsb.se/arena/showpost.php?p=360739&postcount=729

http://rsb.se/arena/showpost.php?p=360740&postcount=730

http://rsb.se/arena/showpost.php?p=360741&postcount=731

http://rsb.se/arena/showpost.php?p=360742&postcount=732

Also found this 1987 buggy vid!!!

Enjoy!!!

Badboy

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Interesting about the suspension think i will run it first as it and see how it handles down the park!

I just charged of my 6.6v Life pack and it only took 10 mins is that for real?

I timed mine anf the 1st charge took 19mins before the buzzer went off to say 'charged'.

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yes - A123 cells are used in DeWalt's cordless battery packs, they can be fastcharged in 15mins

DeWalt's charger has a fan to blow air thru vents in the battery pack i think

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Looks like Tower Hobbies just dropped their price another $10 to US320. With the $75 discount for purchases over $300 this brings the price to $245, an unbelievable $33 cheaper than Stella. Postage was cheaper to Australia than Stella too!

Regards,

Luke Jenner

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I timed mine anf the 1st charge took 19mins before the buzzer went off to say 'charged'.

wow its fast then what did you set the thingy rating to amps i think it is lol, i had it on 6 but from reading instructions

can be as high as 8 for this battery must charge even faster then, but also says for longer life charge at 2!

I put it on expecting it to take atleast 30mins then ping lol

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yes - A123 cells are used in DeWalt's cordless battery packs, they can be fastcharged in 15mins

DeWalt's charger has a fan to blow air thru vents in the battery pack i think

they are fast! it wasnt even warm to touch or anything either! or the charge wasnt not sure if that has a fan within!

Im well impressed wonder how long it will last on one run in the BC?

I have also just ordered my paint for my BC gone for metallic brass which im hoping will look retro but not to tacky gold lol and didnt

want bronze as be to brown then! we will see how it looks!

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wow its fast then what did you set the thingy rating to amps i think it is lol, i had it on 6 but from reading instructions

can be as high as 8 for this battery must charge even faster then, but also says for longer life charge at 2!

I put it on expecting it to take atleast 30mins then ping lol

I had mine on 7A. But reading through the instructions that might be too high.

Quote from the instruction manual:

"The Tamiya LF2200-6.6V Racing Pack may be charged up to the maximum of the 4C rate (2.2x4=8.8A), so it may be charged at 8A with this charger".

...................................................................................................................................................................................................................

I'm assuming in the case of the LF1100-6.6V battery this would apply??......... 1.1x4=4.4A..???? So we are best setting the charger @ 4A ????

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