58441 Rough Rider "Buggy Champ" Re-release

[loaded]

i finally built the buggy champ last night and the fiberglass is flimsy as badword. i guess time to buy the cf chassis plate off ebay now

I am delighted to hear that :-)

I can also sell to you directly, it is cheaper from the Tamiyaclub.com adverts.

Keep well,

Paul.

Traderoom link

[Wandy]

I am delighted to hear that :-)

I can also sell to you directly, it is cheaper from the Tamiyaclub.com adverts.

Keep well,

Paul.

Traderoom link

Paul, is this as rigid as Rad22Rad's aluminium chassis? Does it eliminate the bending found on the Tamiya item?

[loaded]

Rad is a very good friend (he is from Czech and we meet regularly), so I must choose my words carefully ;-) Mine is a much lighter and more rigid form of fibre you can buy anywhere. There are always pros and cons with different materials, Aluminium is heavier, carbon fibre can be brittle when taken to destruction. The fibre I use is the best fibre available anywhere, it isn't the cheap wet lay stuff, or packed full of Eglass instead of carbon with just carbon on the outside, it is carbon fibre all the way through, it is proper vacuum pressed (pre preg) robotics grade, glossy on both sides (because of the pressure from both sides in manufacture). In comparison to the Tamiya product is it much lighter, far stronger and looks nicer. Cometically I much prefer the Carbon to the Aluminium, as personally I think it suits the SRB better from a vintage point of view (it is the same outline, thickness etc) but to be fair, I also have one of Rad's chassis too :-)

It is impossible to eliminate bending with any product, however it flexes far less than the Tamiya one and there are loads of TC guys buying them! I have sold over 100 to TC guys, more on eBay too.

Paul.

[Wandy]

Very diplomatic answer. So to sum up, it is much better than the Tamiya one, lighter than Rad's but a little less susceptible to bending?

[loaded]

I am only allowed one diplomatic answer per week, so I have already used up my quota!

Paul.

[redzone]

What options do we have available for upgrading/replacing the dampers? I see CRP do an option for upgrading the existing rear dampers to coil sprung items but nothing for the front.

Is there a hop-up set of shock absorbers, or a set used on a road/rally car that can be fitted to the SRB chassis?

GPM mini t 60mm dampers for the front with extended lower eyelets

GPM 55mm touring car shocks on the rear.

works for me blacque jacque came up with that i think

[Wandy]

GPM mini t 60mm dampers for the front with extended lower eyelets

GPM 55mm touring car shocks on the rear.

works for me blacque jacque came up with that i think

Thanks, any chance of giving me a bit more detail on these? A link to somewhere perhaps?

[Live Steam Mad]

Well my re-re body box set came from Jason and interestingly the car body and driver tree & roof are both of injection moulded PolyStyrene / Styrol / > PS < just like the original. NOT ABS LOL.

Pity the labels on either end of the box aren't on squarely. Careless workers. They should automate the label application.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[loaded]

Let me get this straight (no pun intended)

Your wishes have been answered, Tamiya re issue the Buggy Champ after all these years and at a price the same Dollar level as 30 years ago and you are not happy the labels are wonky?

Have I got this right?

:-D

Next to the word pedant in the Oxford English there is a smiling picture of you :-)

Keep well (and straight)

Paul.

[Live Steam Mad]

Let me get this straight (no pun intended)

Your wishes have been answered, Tamiya re issue the Buggy Champ after all these years and at a price the same Dollar level as 30 years ago and you are not happy the labels are wonky?

Have I got this right?

:-D

Next to the word pedant in the Oxford English there is a smiling picture of you :-)

Keep well (and straight)

Paul.

Now come on Paul, this applies to all products that mean a lot to me, no matter what their dollar value, the labels being wonky would annoy me on nearly anything I cared about. I'm sentimental, you're judging me too harshly.

Cheers,

ARG

[loaded]

There isn't a tongue in cheek smiley :-)

Paul

[Live Steam Mad]

There isn't a tongue in cheek smiley :-)

Paul

Sorry Paul

I take this hobby way too seriously!

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[loaded]

We all do :-)

P.

[WW-nut]

Just read in another thread that Tamiya are making another Tamtech Buggy Champ, this time in blue!!!!!!! Cheers to Anthony for this info (europro975)

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...80&start=80

Another update:

42162: TRF416X Chassis Kit

57795: RTR Team Studie GLAD BMW Z4 - TT01E Hatsune Miku

57798: RTR Abarth 500 - M05 Assetto Corse

58446: Lancia Delta Integrale - DF03Ra

58447: Ferrari F60 - F104

58448: Corolla Axio apr GT - TA05V.2

58449: BMW M3 GT2 2009 - TT01E

58450: TT01R Type-E Chassis Kit - TT01R

84105: TT-Gear Buggy Champ 2009 - GB02 Blue

Antony

[twisty]

So Tamiya have not killed off the TTG`s just yet then,,,,,,good to see

It should of been a TTG-SS though or even the F150 XLT Ranger [tiny version]would of been fun.

Could you imagine a little 1970`s Ford F150 pickup,with a modern minature light setup fitted? Mini MFU? one can but dream

[Thermionic]

Well, and with respects and apologies to the purists, I am afraid that I have been playing with my Buggy again and hope this long post might be of some slight interest.

With one of my passions once being for fast (ish) cars, I tend to think in terms of driving rather than modelling, and one of the fairly obvious aspects of the Buggy Champ to me was an almost total lack of brakes. (I drive mine mostly on grass or gravel so the locked diff is probably more of an advantage than a problem.) With my original Sand Scorcher of many years ago I eventually fitted a Demon 2 esc which naturally made the car more drivable but also provided a good amount of braking. So I thought I might try and do something about this new machine, and perhaps at the same time boost the performance a little.

Trouble is these days to this newbie like me there is mind boggling choice in how one can power an electric rc car. I suppose the obvious thing to do is to get some sort of brushless set up and be done with it. But as we know, the motor mounting arrangement in the BC is specifically made for the standard 540 form factor motor, and nothing apart from that or its tuned variants will fit.

Through my avid reading of various forums I also got the impression that a brushless system might not necessarily provide the best brakes. More confusion set in, and there was not much help from the various manufacturers web sites, as they seemed to have little hard information about their products, especially for someone attempting something different.. It was though becoming obvious to me that most if not all brushless motors have the winding exiting via a pcb at the rear end, and therefore would need some hacking about of the BC’s motor moulding or gearbox casting to fit. So this inclined me towards a good brushed system, perhaps using a performance 540 variant motor.

So what esc to buy that would have good braking? Well I kind of made a mistake and ordered a Novak GTX. in error! I had narrowed things down to a LRP Quantum Pro 2 (I think) as it seemed to offer racing type performance, good breaking with reverse. But I also came across the Novak beast, with its advanced brakes and programming features at what seemed a good price. So ordered one, not realising that as a true racing esc it would not come with reverse.

As the tuned Tamiya 540 motors seem difficult to get at the moment I plumped for a 19x2 turn Orion Method, because I was advised that this should fit the BC and give a good improvement in power. It was £20, so not a complete disaster if it didn’t work or fit, not like the GTX…

Well you can fit an Orion Method in a Buggy Champ (images below), but you do have to do quite a bit of work first. The motor can fits in the gear case, but you have to remove the label. You then have to grind about a millimetre off the spindle at the pinion end. The brush holders need to be removed, have both their tabs taken off and about half a millimetre ground off their outside edges (so they can’t short out on the casting). The aluminium wings under the brush holders need grinding to fit the extra caps required for the GTX. And two caps need to be soldered to the can, but there is no room so you have to use the space where the can tabs fold into the end plastic moulding. You then have to discard the Tamiya clear plastic motor moulding and make or find a suitable waterproof cover. And lastly, properly retain the motor in the casting with a three millimetre screw from the pinion end (probably two of these would be best). Oh and lastly again, directly wire the esc wires to the brush solder tabs.

I decided to keep the non-reversing GTX mostly to see what it would be like with the Orion, and hopefully being able to stop would remove most of the need for reverse anyway.

The GTX installation was a lot more straight forward than the motor. The unit is tiny and just needed to be positioned with regard to the thick wires and being able to get at the programming button. I kept the supplied Novak switch, not bothering to graft on the Tamyia slider. The bec is a well regulated 6.3 volts, so the Spektrum battery volt meter is pretty redundant. The alarm though can be set so that once the volts dip below regulation the alarm goes off. Another effect of the new esc was that the Spektrum rev-counter went even more manic than usual and was giving some even dafter readings. But I had used non-screened wire to connect the optical unit to the receiver (Spektrum use an un-screened ribbon cable - might be something they should look at) and it seemed obvious that all sorts of pulses from the esc had been getting into the counter’s front end. So I replaced the sensor wire with some miniature 3 way screened (black wire to the screen) and suddenly I had a perfect rev counter and speedometer. No meter needle jumping about any more, just a steady and apparently accurate indication of speed and revs.

I have only had one session with the new setup so far but the differences are obvious. Acceleration and top speed are of course noticeably improved, with the problem now being getting the power down and keeping the car in the wanted direction. No wheelies yet, but what braking! Just like in a real car; lift off the accelerator and the car instantly slows, slam the brakes on and the machine comes to a pretty quick halt. No locking of wheels, but I have yet to get to grips with the subtleties of the GTX’s programmes. Very promising stuff and the new set up seems to give longer run times as well, in that I was getting about 29 minutes running with the previous system and for the first run of the new one I got over 35.

Nothing is perfect though as the GTX heat sink at the end of the run (35 minutes in the closed box) was at 85 Deg C, so I might have to do something about that. Lack of reverse remains a slight inconvenience, so I might investigate using the aux channel of the Spektrum to actuate some sort of reversing of the esc output. Not real problems but interesting things to ponder about

Another lengthy post I am afraid

Cheers,

T

[loaded]

Reverse is for wimps and parking.

Now where is that tongue in cheek smiley ;-)

Paul.

PS : Oh and handbrake turns!

[Live Steam Mad]

@Thermionic, I hope you didn't pay much for the GTX [ whoops, in later post I noticed mine is a GT7 doah! ], mine was 2nd hand (like Jim's) at around 20 GBP from USA. Very good brakes with my Top Force and 12 double Reedy Ti modified. I went to Deans connectors for that car like you did, and used the heat resistant connectors instead of the normal ones, soldering can be done on 14AWG cable in 6 seconds, without any damage to the connector. I used Deans Racing Solder, it's unbelievably good stuff with a VERY active and tennacious flux and excellent flow, and an Antex 50W iron with interchangeable heads (3 chisel tips, 1mm, 2mm, and 6mm), I use the largest head for these kind of jobs.

I had to use a Schottky diode from Reedy as I couldn't get hold of a Novak one, plus 3 Reedy suppression capacitors. I made sure to keep the power capacitor on the ESC.

I am going to use PCM1024 control like on my TF for my RR to remove Rx glitching on 27MHz AM. Styrene bodies are too precious to risk LOL.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[Badboy]

You haven't got it, right?

These cars are NOT for speed!!!

Go buy an ol' Acoms AP-227 Mk II (?) and put it in with silvercan!!!

Badboy

[jonth]

These cars are NOT for speed!!!

From the box:

Racing Buggy Buggy Champ

1/10 SCALE R/C HIGH PERFORMANCE 2WD OFF ROAD RACER

This car needs speed!

Jon.

[Live Steam Mad]

@Thermionic, I just remembered that the Nosram Matrix Evolution (2007 model) has both brushed and brushless control in it of 5 turns limit brushed and 3.5T limit brushless, and is 100 GBP and has a limited lifetime warranty so it can blow up as many times as it likes and it won't be a problem!

I would imagine that the brakes on it are excellent?

https://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/product_in...roducts_id=1149

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/nosrammatrix07/

However it doesn't seem to have reverse.

BUT there is a line SPECIFICALLY of brushed + brushless controllers WITH REVERSE from Nosram, for example this one ;-

http://www.nosram.com/en/products/electron...everse/details/

For spec's, see for example ;-

http://www.nosram.com/fileadmin/nosram_anl...-e-050506fv.pdf

...which is a slightly lower spec controller but can still do > 7T brushed and > 5.5T brushless

WATCH OUT that you don't get caught out by the "double tap" problem that I mentioned about previously (see above a page or 2 back). My Novak Rooster wasn't a double tap one (unlike my Futaba 330 and Tamiya 302 ) and it annoyed me greatly!

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[Live Steam Mad]

As the tuned Tamiya 540 motors seem difficult to get at the moment I plumped for a 19x2 turn Orion Method, because I was advised that this should fit the BC and give a good improvement in power. It was £20, so not a complete disaster if it didn’t work or fit, not like the GTX…

Stellamodels is my usual source for Tamiya motors of various kinds, I have used the Super Stock RZ and it's very good indeed ;-

http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/default.php?cPath=75_135

...failing that I use rcmart ;-

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/advanced_sea...ds=Tamiya+motor

...I don't see any problems with availability.

My favourite combo. at the moment for the RR or SS would be a Tamiya Sport Tuned motor (fits in case with no mod's apparently?) and Tamiya TEU-302BK ESC and FM or 2.4GHz stick type radio control. The motor is 6 quid which can't be grumbled at.

If anyone knows of a reversible ESC with better brakes than the Tamiya 302 and which has "double tap" control (push back once for brakes, then again for reverse, so you can hold it on the brakes and it doesn't start to reverse) then PLEASE can you let us know!

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[Live Steam Mad]

And two caps need to be soldered to the can, but there is no room so you have to use the space where the can tabs fold into the end plastic moulding.

The Tamiya Super Stock RZ has the suppression capacitors on a PCB so you don't need to solder any cap's to the motor can.

Cheers,

Alistair G.

[Live Steam Mad]

Well, and with respects and apologies to the purists, I am afraid that I have been playing with my Buggy again and hope this long post might be of some slight interest.

A very interesting post. I don't think I'd have used that IMHO ugly motor cover though Also why do you need a heat sink on the GTX [ whoops, in later post I noticed mine is a GT7 doah! ] ? I didn't even know you could add one since the unit case is all plastic which won't conduct the heat away readily anyway? Why have you put the switch on the inside of the radio box?! LOL.

Cheers,

ARG

[Live Steam Mad]

I have only had one session with the new setup so far but the differences are obvious. Acceleration and top speed are of course noticeably improved, with the problem now being getting the power down and keeping the car in the wanted direction. No wheelies yet, but what braking! Just like in a real car; lift off the accelerator and the car instantly slows, slam the brakes on and the machine comes to a pretty quick halt. No locking of wheels, but I have yet to get to grips with the subtleties of the GTX’s programmes. Very promising stuff and the new set up seems to give longer run times as well, in that I was getting about 29 minutes running with the previous system and for the first run of the new one I got over 35.

Nothing is perfect though as the GTX heat sink at the end of the run (35 minutes in the closed box) was at 85 Deg C, so I might have to do something about that. Lack of reverse remains a slight inconvenience, so I might investigate using the aux channel of the Spektrum to actuate some sort of reversing of the esc output. Not real problems but interesting things to ponder about

Another lengthy post I am afraid

Cheers,

T

If you are running a Schottky diode on the motor (which you MUST to keep the ESC brake circuit from overloading and the brakes going soft as a result) then you CANNOT run the motor in reverse or you will DESTROY any connected Electronic speed controller!

Nice one on the brakes, finally it shows what is possible with a brake circuit with a decent rating!

If only I could find an ESC of the double tap (see above) type which had similar brakes!

Cheers,

Alistair G.