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Ok ... I've only managed the first 8 steps in the past 3 hours

Step 1 - Chassis T-Bar Assembly, Main Chassis

F104_DSCN1676_003.jpg

Step 1 - Attaching Diffuser

F104_DSCN1677_004.jpg

Step 2 - Build Motor Mount, Right side view - Place on flat surface to ensure no unevenness

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Step 2 - Build Motor Mount, Left side view

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Step 3 - Attaching Motor Mount to Chassis, Perfect fit as expected

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Step 3 - Attaching Motor Mount to Chassis, Right side elevated view

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Step 3 - Attaching Motor Mount to Chassis, Right side view

F104_DSCN1684_010.jpg

Step 3 - Attaching Motor Mount to Chassis, Left side view

F104_DSCN1685_011.jpg

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Step 4 - Rear Shaft setup and Ground Clearance, 3 types of spacers provided to setup ground clearance or chassis height

F104_DSCN1686_012.jpg

Step 4 - Rear Shaft setup and Ground Clearance, Does not really say what the height for each spacer will be. Will measure once the build is complete

F104_DSCN1687_013.jpg

Step 4 - Rear Shaft setup and Ground Clearance, Middle option spacer used as default. Clear off all excess plastic from the spacer as it is a snug fit.

F104_DSCN1689_015.jpg

Step 4 - Rear Shaft - Left side recess offset is short, Note difference in shaft recess position on each side of the shaft

F104_DSCN1690_016.jpg

Step 4 - Rear Shaft - Right side recess offset is longer

F104_DSCN1691_017.jpg

Step 4 - Rear Shaft Assembly Completed

F104_DSCN1692_018.jpg

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Step 5 - Ball Diff Setup, All parts required to build the ball diff.

F104_DSCN1694_019.jpg

Step 5 -Final Drive Ratio Selection, I've gone with 3.72:1 FDR with the included 93T spur and 25T pinion

F104_DSCN1695_020.jpg

Step 6 - Diff Gear Adjustment completed - fully tighten, then release quarter turn for stock setup

F104_DSCN1696_021.jpg

Step 7 - Powerplant, Decided to use a Sport Tuned and Futaba MC330CR

F104_DSCN1697_022.jpg

F104_DSCN1701_023.jpg

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Step 8 - Front Lower Suspension Assemby, all the parts for the front lower suspension setup

F104_DSCN1704_024.jpg

Step 8 - Front Suspension Lower Arm Assembly, Camber angle Setup by positioning of attachment holes of part F1

F104_DSCN1705_025.jpg

F104_DSCN1707_027.jpg

Step 8 - Front Suspension Lower Arm Assembly, 1 degree camber selected

F104_DSCN1706_026.jpg

F104_DSCN1709_029.jpg

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this is great, keep those pics coming :) thanks for sharing the build with us.

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I'm looking forward to getting one of these almost as much as the Buggy Champ...

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great built thread :) . thanks for sharing, keep the updates coming :D

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Cool, thanks for sharing the build. For some reason I really want one of these,I think I actually want one more than a Buggy Champ (which makes no sense because I live in a rural area with little places to run it)

Looking forward to seeing updates :)

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Now I want one too. Never experienced a F1 type RC, only built one before but never driven her.

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Cool, thanks for sharing the build. For some reason I really want one of these,I think I actually want one more than a Buggy Champ (which makes no sense because I live in a rural area with little places to run it)

Looking forward to seeing updates :)

:( I recognize that problem. I want the F104 and Buggy Champ (probably the F104 slightly more), but where am I going to run it? The only way of transport I have is a bicycle, and the nearest track (which is probably also the nearest place to safely run one) is 20 kilometres away! Second problem is that I already have an SRB and a Gr.C car, so why should I buy a second car that I can't run anywhere near my home or another SRB if the first one has sat there for more than a year, with some progress, but not nearly finished?

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...so why should I buy a second car that I can't run anywhere near my home or another SRB if the first one has sat there for more than a year, with some progress, but not nearly finished?

BECAUSE THEY ARE SO DANG FUN TO BUILD!!!! :):(:);)

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Day 2

Finally found some time to continue with the build ... managed a few more steps this time.

Step 9 - Tie rods for steering linkage

F104_DSCN1723_001.jpg

Step 10 - Servo Mod -- Tamiya decided to adopt a somewhat different approach to mounting the servo for the F104, I suppose due to space constraints. So that means you have to sacrifice the standard mounting points for the servo.

F104_DSCN1724_002.jpg

So after using the trusty Dremel and cutting disc ... :( ... looks kind of "naked" I think ...

F104_DSCN1728_006.jpg

F104_DSCN1730_008.jpg

Step 11,12 Next, centre the servo by connecting all your radio gear and electronics, then mount the servo on the holding plates. The actual plates that will hold the servo in place -- using Tamiya supplied double sided tape

F104_DSCN1732_010.jpg

The key here is to ensure you have a very very flat surface to align the servo and the plates.

F104_DSCN1734_012.jpg

Bottom View

F104_DSCN1735_013.jpg

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Step 13 - Attached servo to chassis

F104_DSCN1736_014.jpg

Now this is the cool swivelling battery compartment mechanism that you saw at the hobby show videos.

F104_DSCN1737_015.jpg

F104_DSCN1738_016.jpg

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Step 14 - Upper chassis frame

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Step 15 - Attaching upper frame to chassis

F104_DSCN1743_021.jpg

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Step 16 - Mount receiver and ESC

F104_DSCN1746_024.jpg

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Step 17 - Front upper suspension arm assembly

F104_DSCN1747_025.jpg

Quite a lot of force required to snap the arms into the ball connectors

F104_DSCN1749_027.jpg

F104_DSCN1750_028.jpg

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Step 18 - Assembling front uprights

F104_DSCN1752_030.jpg

Attaching the screw into the carbon reinforced uprights is a real pain ...

F104_DSCN1753_031.jpg

F104_DSCN1756_034.jpg

Ride height determined by interchanging plastic spacers provided, F2, F3 and F4 parts

F104_DSCN1757_035.jpg

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Step 19 - Friction damper assembly

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Step 20, 21 - Damper assembly

F104_DSCN1768_048.jpg

Step 22 - Mounted on chassis

F104_DSCN1770_049.jpg

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I love build threads.

How does the front suspension work on you these cars? Is it purely the flex in the lower wishbone?

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The front uprights are attached to a pin, on that pin there is a very small spring. That's all the front suspension the car gets, you can also see it if you look at the pic from the manual that is posted.

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:blink: I recognize that problem. I want the F104 and Buggy Champ (probably the F104 slightly more), but where am I going to run it? The only way of transport I have is a bicycle, and the nearest track (which is probably also the nearest place to safely run one) is 20 kilometres away! Second problem is that I already have an SRB and a Gr.C car, so why should I buy a second car that I can't run anywhere near my home or another SRB if the first one has sat there for more than a year, with some progress, but not nearly finished?

Yeah, and I am not really a 1:1 F1 fan really, actually the around 2001 season I liked the F1 series, but not lately... I was all gun-ho about getting a rere Buggy Champ to start with but this F104Pro is more appealing to me at the moment.I have a great place to run one , thankfully not 20 km but still about 15 mins drive...

PsycoAtom, your build thread inspired me so I just ordered one for myself :D

The servo mount is very similar to the F103GT mount, I love the cool swing out battery thing!!

Are you planning box art on the body or something different?

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I really like those carbon steering knuckles, but that stupid ball with the flat-blade screwdrive slot is absurd!!! Why wouldn't Tamiya use the blue 5x5mm hex-head balls? My best guess is that they needed something new and even lower profile. I still think it's odd. This flat-blade driver slot was a huge problem on the original Hotshot and was done away with on the re-release.

53906.jpg

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Yeah, and I am not really a 1:1 F1 fan really, actually the around 2001 season I liked the F1 series, but not lately... I was all gun-ho about getting a rere Buggy Champ to start with but this F104Pro is more appealing to me at the moment.I have a great place to run one , thankfully not 20 km but still about 15 mins drive...

PsycoAtom, your build thread inspired me so I just ordered one for myself :)

The servo mount is very similar to the F103GT mount, I love the cool swing out battery thing!!

Are you planning box art on the body or something different?

pagedm_f350 ... believe me you will not regret buying it ... it is a joy to build ... :o ... you might want to order the option aluminum motor mount (54166) and titanium screw set (84058) - I think they are essential despite the "PRO" branding for this kit.

I'm still undecided on body choices ... might be a boring person and build box art, maybe one fo the current F1 '09 Brawn or BMW livery ... however, I must say that my paintwork is not what one would classify as extremely artistic ... so it'll take a while before the body is ready.

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I really like those carbon steering knuckles, but that stupid ball with the flat-blade screwdrive slot is absurd!!! Why wouldn't Tamiya use the blue 5x5mm hex-head balls? My best guess is that they needed something new and even lower profile. I still think it's odd. This flat-blade driver slot was a huge problem on the original Hotshot and was done away with on the re-release.

53906.jpg

94eg! ... I'm glad you share my thoughts on this ... those flat-head screw balls are so hard to tap in to the reinforced knuckes because you do not have any leverage whatsoever ... makes you want to put them in a vise instead. If I had some spare 5mm hex-head balls I would have replaced them instead.

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Day 3

The next 3 steps 23 - 25 essentially finishes off the chassis itself, which includes the wheels and battery stay. The front and rear wing parts are classified as body parts.

Step 23 - Wheel Assembly ... identical to Grp C car type wheel assembly with the double sided tape and the stretching of the sponge tyres over the wheels.

F104_DSCN1771_002.jpg

F104_DSCN1772_003.jpg

All done .. I decided to put the Tamiya Logo side of the tyres on the inner side of the wheels ...

F104_DSCN1773_004.jpg

Step 24 - Attaching Wheels to Chassis

Front and Rear lock nuts are different

F104_WheelNuts_027.jpg

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Step 25 - Attaching Battery Stay

One piece battery stay with added sponge protector for the battery

F104_BatteryStay_001.jpg

Fits in snugly with square end medium snap pins provided

F104_DSCN1779_007.jpg

Tidied up the wiring a little

F104_DSCN1784_012.jpg

I don't really notice some of the messages in the left hand side of the pages in the instruction manual, but there are some notes that make me scratch my head sometimes ... but maybe someone might use this for Rally purposes ... you never know ...

F104_DSCN1794_020.jpg

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For those who are interested, overall chassis ride height is 6mm based on the earlier settings with battery in place.

Front Wing assembly is straight forward

F104_DSCN1781_009.jpg

You have to remove the front 4x30mm screw attached earlier in Step 8 to attach the front wing

F104_DSCN1782_010.jpg

F104_DSCN1783_011.jpg

Rear Wing has more parts, and is adjustable for technical circuits

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I stuck with the standard setting

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Finished Rear wing

F104_DSCN1795_021.jpg

Mounted on chassis

F104_DSCN1800_026.jpg

Chassis completed

F104_DSCN1799_025.jpg

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Some pics of the body shell

F104_DSCN1787_015.jpg

You can barely make out the blemishes on the induction pod ... not sure how they'll affect final painted product, but I doubt it will be an issue

F104_DSCN1790_017.jpg

F104_DSCN1788_016.jpg

It's a 3 piece body shell ... the 2 side pontoons are optional

F104_DSCN1791_018.jpg

F104_DSCN1792_019.jpg

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