PsychoAtom 0 Posted June 15, 2009 Ok ... I've only managed the first 8 steps in the past 3 hours Step 1 - Chassis T-Bar Assembly, Main Chassis Step 1 - Attaching Diffuser Step 2 - Build Motor Mount, Right side view - Place on flat surface to ensure no unevenness Step 2 - Build Motor Mount, Left side view Step 3 - Attaching Motor Mount to Chassis, Perfect fit as expected Step 3 - Attaching Motor Mount to Chassis, Right side elevated view Step 3 - Attaching Motor Mount to Chassis, Right side view Step 3 - Attaching Motor Mount to Chassis, Left side view Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PsychoAtom 0 Posted June 15, 2009 Step 4 - Rear Shaft setup and Ground Clearance, 3 types of spacers provided to setup ground clearance or chassis height Step 4 - Rear Shaft setup and Ground Clearance, Does not really say what the height for each spacer will be. Will measure once the build is complete Step 4 - Rear Shaft setup and Ground Clearance, Middle option spacer used as default. Clear off all excess plastic from the spacer as it is a snug fit. Step 4 - Rear Shaft - Left side recess offset is short, Note difference in shaft recess position on each side of the shaft Step 4 - Rear Shaft - Right side recess offset is longer Step 4 - Rear Shaft Assembly Completed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PsychoAtom 0 Posted June 15, 2009 Step 5 - Ball Diff Setup, All parts required to build the ball diff. Step 5 -Final Drive Ratio Selection, I've gone with 3.72:1 FDR with the included 93T spur and 25T pinion Step 6 - Diff Gear Adjustment completed - fully tighten, then release quarter turn for stock setup Step 7 - Powerplant, Decided to use a Sport Tuned and Futaba MC330CR Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PsychoAtom 0 Posted June 15, 2009 Step 8 - Front Lower Suspension Assemby, all the parts for the front lower suspension setup Step 8 - Front Suspension Lower Arm Assembly, Camber angle Setup by positioning of attachment holes of part F1 Step 8 - Front Suspension Lower Arm Assembly, 1 degree camber selected Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Origineelreclamebord 45 Posted June 15, 2009 Very, very cool you're starting a build thread! Finally we get to see all the details in design of the F104 - for example that ground clearance adjustment is very clever! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Taman 3 Posted June 16, 2009 this is great, keep those pics coming thanks for sharing the build with us. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wandy 1526 Posted June 16, 2009 I'm looking forward to getting one of these almost as much as the Buggy Champ... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigoggy 203 Posted June 16, 2009 great built thread . thanks for sharing, keep the updates coming Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pagedm_f350 3 Posted June 17, 2009 Cool, thanks for sharing the build. For some reason I really want one of these,I think I actually want one more than a Buggy Champ (which makes no sense because I live in a rural area with little places to run it) Looking forward to seeing updates Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tamiya1/10 382 Posted June 17, 2009 Now I want one too. Never experienced a F1 type RC, only built one before but never driven her. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Origineelreclamebord 45 Posted June 17, 2009 Cool, thanks for sharing the build. For some reason I really want one of these,I think I actually want one more than a Buggy Champ (which makes no sense because I live in a rural area with little places to run it)Looking forward to seeing updates I recognize that problem. I want the F104 and Buggy Champ (probably the F104 slightly more), but where am I going to run it? The only way of transport I have is a bicycle, and the nearest track (which is probably also the nearest place to safely run one) is 20 kilometres away! Second problem is that I already have an SRB and a Gr.C car, so why should I buy a second car that I can't run anywhere near my home or another SRB if the first one has sat there for more than a year, with some progress, but not nearly finished? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
94eg! 834 Posted June 17, 2009 ...so why should I buy a second car that I can't run anywhere near my home or another SRB if the first one has sat there for more than a year, with some progress, but not nearly finished? BECAUSE THEY ARE SO DANG FUN TO BUILD!!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PsychoAtom 0 Posted June 17, 2009 Day 2 Finally found some time to continue with the build ... managed a few more steps this time. Step 9 - Tie rods for steering linkage Step 10 - Servo Mod -- Tamiya decided to adopt a somewhat different approach to mounting the servo for the F104, I suppose due to space constraints. So that means you have to sacrifice the standard mounting points for the servo. So after using the trusty Dremel and cutting disc ... ... looks kind of "naked" I think ... Step 11,12 Next, centre the servo by connecting all your radio gear and electronics, then mount the servo on the holding plates. The actual plates that will hold the servo in place -- using Tamiya supplied double sided tape The key here is to ensure you have a very very flat surface to align the servo and the plates. Bottom View Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PsychoAtom 0 Posted June 17, 2009 Step 13 - Attached servo to chassis Now this is the cool swivelling battery compartment mechanism that you saw at the hobby show videos. Step 14 - Upper chassis frame Step 15 - Attaching upper frame to chassis Step 16 - Mount receiver and ESC Step 17 - Front upper suspension arm assembly Quite a lot of force required to snap the arms into the ball connectors Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PsychoAtom 0 Posted June 17, 2009 Step 18 - Assembling front uprights Attaching the screw into the carbon reinforced uprights is a real pain ... Ride height determined by interchanging plastic spacers provided, F2, F3 and F4 parts Step 19 - Friction damper assembly Step 20, 21 - Damper assembly Step 22 - Mounted on chassis Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butler 338 Posted June 18, 2009 I love build threads. How does the front suspension work on you these cars? Is it purely the flex in the lower wishbone? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
monster_beetle 2 Posted June 18, 2009 The front uprights are attached to a pin, on that pin there is a very small spring. That's all the front suspension the car gets, you can also see it if you look at the pic from the manual that is posted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Butler 338 Posted June 18, 2009 Ah ha, missed that. BB24. thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pagedm_f350 3 Posted June 18, 2009 I recognize that problem. I want the F104 and Buggy Champ (probably the F104 slightly more), but where am I going to run it? The only way of transport I have is a bicycle, and the nearest track (which is probably also the nearest place to safely run one) is 20 kilometres away! Second problem is that I already have an SRB and a Gr.C car, so why should I buy a second car that I can't run anywhere near my home or another SRB if the first one has sat there for more than a year, with some progress, but not nearly finished? Yeah, and I am not really a 1:1 F1 fan really, actually the around 2001 season I liked the F1 series, but not lately... I was all gun-ho about getting a rere Buggy Champ to start with but this F104Pro is more appealing to me at the moment.I have a great place to run one , thankfully not 20 km but still about 15 mins drive... PsycoAtom, your build thread inspired me so I just ordered one for myself The servo mount is very similar to the F103GT mount, I love the cool swing out battery thing!! Are you planning box art on the body or something different? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
94eg! 834 Posted June 18, 2009 I really like those carbon steering knuckles, but that stupid ball with the flat-blade screwdrive slot is absurd!!! Why wouldn't Tamiya use the blue 5x5mm hex-head balls? My best guess is that they needed something new and even lower profile. I still think it's odd. This flat-blade driver slot was a huge problem on the original Hotshot and was done away with on the re-release. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PsychoAtom 0 Posted June 20, 2009 Yeah, and I am not really a 1:1 F1 fan really, actually the around 2001 season I liked the F1 series, but not lately... I was all gun-ho about getting a rere Buggy Champ to start with but this F104Pro is more appealing to me at the moment.I have a great place to run one , thankfully not 20 km but still about 15 mins drive...PsycoAtom, your build thread inspired me so I just ordered one for myself The servo mount is very similar to the F103GT mount, I love the cool swing out battery thing!! Are you planning box art on the body or something different? pagedm_f350 ... believe me you will not regret buying it ... it is a joy to build ... ... you might want to order the option aluminum motor mount (54166) and titanium screw set (84058) - I think they are essential despite the "PRO" branding for this kit. I'm still undecided on body choices ... might be a boring person and build box art, maybe one fo the current F1 '09 Brawn or BMW livery ... however, I must say that my paintwork is not what one would classify as extremely artistic ... so it'll take a while before the body is ready. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PsychoAtom 0 Posted June 20, 2009 I really like those carbon steering knuckles, but that stupid ball with the flat-blade screwdrive slot is absurd!!! Why wouldn't Tamiya use the blue 5x5mm hex-head balls? My best guess is that they needed something new and even lower profile. I still think it's odd. This flat-blade driver slot was a huge problem on the original Hotshot and was done away with on the re-release. 94eg! ... I'm glad you share my thoughts on this ... those flat-head screw balls are so hard to tap in to the reinforced knuckes because you do not have any leverage whatsoever ... makes you want to put them in a vise instead. If I had some spare 5mm hex-head balls I would have replaced them instead. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PsychoAtom 0 Posted June 20, 2009 Day 3 The next 3 steps 23 - 25 essentially finishes off the chassis itself, which includes the wheels and battery stay. The front and rear wing parts are classified as body parts. Step 23 - Wheel Assembly ... identical to Grp C car type wheel assembly with the double sided tape and the stretching of the sponge tyres over the wheels. All done .. I decided to put the Tamiya Logo side of the tyres on the inner side of the wheels ... Step 24 - Attaching Wheels to Chassis Front and Rear lock nuts are different Step 25 - Attaching Battery Stay One piece battery stay with added sponge protector for the battery Fits in snugly with square end medium snap pins provided Tidied up the wiring a little I don't really notice some of the messages in the left hand side of the pages in the instruction manual, but there are some notes that make me scratch my head sometimes ... but maybe someone might use this for Rally purposes ... you never know ... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PsychoAtom 0 Posted June 20, 2009 For those who are interested, overall chassis ride height is 6mm based on the earlier settings with battery in place. Front Wing assembly is straight forward You have to remove the front 4x30mm screw attached earlier in Step 8 to attach the front wing Rear Wing has more parts, and is adjustable for technical circuits I stuck with the standard setting Finished Rear wing Mounted on chassis Chassis completed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PsychoAtom 0 Posted June 20, 2009 Some pics of the body shell You can barely make out the blemishes on the induction pod ... not sure how they'll affect final painted product, but I doubt it will be an issue It's a 3 piece body shell ... the 2 side pontoons are optional Share this post Link to post Share on other sites