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Posted

If I recall right, TA-Mark had given advice on how to mount the springs with a slight bit of spacing by using a cut down brass tube, to prevent the springs from breaking under repeated direct contact with the plastic mounts.

Posted

Of course they're not going to redesign anything. Why do you think there are still plastic wheel bushings in those old kits?

The stock springs are horrible. I'm just thinking there is a better way than the 3rd shock mod.

Posted

Bushings are there because of the cost, same reason as springs holders instead of oil shocks or the lack of redesign on the front suspension.

I actually got a bonus bearing set in the box (funny only wheel bearings, but not the two transmission bearings)

But known weak springs that will fail after a few hours, that is more on the line of "as long as they sell why would we care, bonus we sell a load of extra shocks"

The extra shock mod looks like the best way for now, unless you can find some springs that fit and do not break. Maybe from some extra big hair clams, the kind the better half uses.

Posted

Tamiya was my first rc love and probably always will be. Bit yeah, there are a few cases of weakness and cheapness that I'll never be ok with

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Im looking for alternative rim for my lunchbox front wheel is broken at the 'hubs' where the bearing sit. is there different rims in yellow?

Posted

So I've got that ancient Kyosho gold shock (from an Optima Mid, it's that old) on there as a third shock. Cycling the suspension, the axle hits it at full compression. I don't like that. So I got to thinking.

Why does it need a spring? I keep reading that it has to be a spring, and can be done with a friction damper. I'm thinking the opposite. It's my opinion that this really needs to be a shock absorber only. Just a decently stiff oil shock to resist rapid movement. Or one at each end.

Posted

On one of my Lunchbox chassis I used an M-Chassis friction shock - works perfectly... I see no reason to ensure its an oil shock...

Posted

Lunchbox/midnight pumpkin rims are specific. You're kinda stuck with stockers unless you want to step up to 2.2

Mad Bull front rims use the same tire and are yellow, but not sure if the offset is the same.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

But is the spring necessary? The shock should be able to slow movement enough on its own

IMO I would say the spring IS necessary as the damper alone won't hold the front part of the gearbox in the lower position as both the standard springs and a sprung 3rd shock will (unless you put really thick oil in but then it's not going to damp very well).

Posted

Why does it need to be held down?

Everything I've read on the third shock mod is that it's done to prevent the axle from slapping and jerking. I'd think a shock without a spring and a firm setting should work fine to control the action. Or maybe two, one at each end.

Posted

If you don't hold the front section down it moves up in the slots as you accelerate and you hear the crack noise and it smacks into the stops. Holding it down stops that and by using a simple shock in the centre still allows the whole gearbox to roll from side to side.

The 5th shock only really needs to be sprung as its just there to push down on the gearbox pivot. It doesn't have to be a full on oil filled damper. I did a write up on how I made a 3rd shock mod out of spares for a Hornet. It's the same principle and I've fitted the exact same mod on my VLB with good results.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=62351&hl=

Posted

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Posted Image

Sneak peek at my newest eBay score. A set of Imex Jumbo Dawgs. I've wanted these since forever. Finally. But what's up with the way the tread meets in the middle?

  • Like 1
  • 10 months later...

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