Let's Talk Lunchboxes

[zeniitti]

Nice, I have old Pajero. I've updated it with burhless electrics and lunchbox wheels + tires. It seems that my purposes low profile street tires would be better. Where to find the budget version? The cheapest would do it. China?

Btw, I had this:

[wolfdogstinkus]

@Zenitti, What does your Pajero look like now?, some of those parts are unique and hard to find.

[zeniitti]

A little bit different

Fitting the new rims. New tyres waiting...

Quickly painted with matt white and some modeling paints, not very good...

Temporary locations for some of the electorincs. It's really hard to find a decent place for a new battery and how to keep the center of gravity low. And still the stock tyres:

The Retro-Pajero

Actually the handling is quite poor. I have there "C lipo, 60A ESC, the original steering servo (!) and 3650 12T 3330KV brushless motor. I have also new shock but have not yet mount them. Gearbox is secured with a cable tie. When starting to move, it keeps crackling noise. I might have to replace that. Well I have old crasshopper (58346). I think that the parts are the same...

But I'm still looking for good tyres. Width is about 70mm and internal diameter is approx.55mm. Is there anything from here? http://www.rcmart.com

[zeniitti]

I actually bought Tamiya Pin Type Wheel Adapter [53056] set to put hexacon wheels to Pajero. Maybe it will help a little bit...

[Sayer]

@Zenitti, What does your Pajero look like now?, some of those parts are unique and hard to find.

I've got an old Pajero chassis doing nothing

[Burmanater]

Mastino want to provide any info on the parts and part #s used to convert your LB to those wheels? I would love to swap to something like that. Do the tires rub at full turn? reverse? So cool what you did with it. Same goes to you theboomfish I may have to see what flipping the wheelie bar does with no 5 shock.

[mastino]

It's very simple. You must use HPI rims.

HPI # 2160 super star MT wheels REAR

HPI # 2125 FRONT

Both front and rear are supplied with adapters to fit rims onto kyosho, tamiya and other models

rear

front

The tyres are Proline Masher 2.2.

I'm using a CRP "Futaba FX-10" front end conversion and 105mm ansmann shocks. The weight of the wheels is increased, but my LB is WHEELIEEEE again.

PS: sorry for the delay

[Burmanater]

I bought thesehttp://www.ebay.com/itm/131150369610?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

...Maybe I jumped the gun a bit on them but I didn't know if I was gonna hear back on the parts you used or not. This only supplies the rear but I assume you could run them on the front also but I will wait till I get these and see how they work out. I was thinking that if they did in fact fit the front also even though I would no longer have ball bearings in the front I could choose a potentially wider wheel with more negative offset and not rub the body while turning or in reverse and increase stability greatly. Forgot to look up 12mm wheels also. Maybe I need to quit getting on ebay at 3am?

[TWINSET]

I bought these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131150369610?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

...I assume you could run them on the front also

They wont work on the front as the front axle (thru the wheel) doesn't rotate and the front wheels run on bushes or bearings, not a hex

Those are designed to spin with the axle (connected/driven by the dowel pin they include), whereas if you put them on the front the hex would spin on the axle, wearing one of them out pretty quick (probably the hex as it's alu)

[mastino]

They wont work on the front as the front axle (thru the wheel) doesn't rotate and the front wheels run on bushes or bearings, not a hex

Those are designed to spin with the axle (connected/driven by the dowel pin they include), whereas if you put them on the front the hex would spin on the axle, wearing one of them out pretty quick (probably the hex as it's alu)

I confirm. You could use Tamiya hex adapter directly with HPI rear rims ( I use them in my MB, in picture Black HPI SS MT and LB tires)

For the front wheels you can buy just the adapter kit and alu washer (HPI # 6115 (front) + HPI #6125(4 x washer)). But everything is included with the HPI rims.

[Rich1978]

Anyone know if I add a 19t brushed motor to my lunchbox if I will need to change the pinion?

[GregM]

There are two pinion choices for the Lunchbox: 10T (high torque for wheelies, with adaptor plate) and 18T (high top speed, Hornet configuration). I suggest staying with the 10T pinion.

[Rich1978]

So whats the sweet spot between speed, torque and the front wheels touching the ground?

It has a black sports in at the moment and is a bit of a slouch compared to my df03 so just want to pep it up a bit.

[Rich1978]

In terms of motor that is...

[mr crispy]

Make it much faster and it'll over whelm the suspension.

[SteveU30]

Anyone know if I add a 19t brushed motor to my lunchbox if I will need to change the pinion?

I have a 17T brushed motor running off a 2S LiPo in mine with a boat load of suspension mods and it drives very well; good acceleration, good top speed, good wheeling ability, steers well enough at speed while still retaining the comedy element of not being brilliant. Here's the video of it in action (I think this is on NiMh though):

http://youtu.be/kHk1KoyjaMs

[Rich1978]

Based on that 19t might be the way fwd.... That's rapid!

[wolfdogstinkus]

Mymonsterbeetle is broken used to have a Mamba max powered pumpkin (same chassis)

Go all out, if you get a 19T you will want faster when you get used to it.

Lipo will make a much bigger difference than a new motor. lighter, more power, less voltage sag under load.

[essexbill]

Ordered a Black lunchbox, set of oil filled shocks, so hopefully mid week I can start the build

[essexbill]

Finished mine. and tested it

[danb1974]

Had to get something from the cw-01 family. Had to be cheap, found a Montero on sale, got it. Even got wheel bearings as extra. But no gearbox bearings, luckily I had those in the drawer.

Sorry but quality is lower as expected, several places in which screws just strip no matter how carefull I am, the tb-03 was way better (I am referring to plastic quality alone, I was aware this is a very old and entry level chassis and was not expecting much tech-wise). Those tiny rear spring-thingies (not the big shocks) are already not pushing the axle all the way down.

I do not intend to sink money into upgrades, just to have fun for what it is, so no 5-th shock, no fx10 front, just what it is.

Sorry no painting just the stickers. Looks good nevertheless.

[emory70]

I have a 5th shock on my 'box, and although I think I have it as far forward as it can go, when cycling the rear suspension, the trans does hit the shock at full compression. That has me thinking...

Why not just use heavier springs to replace the stock tiny ones? Might not even need to be that much heavier. Maybe something from a clothes pin (butt that's probably way too stout).

Just thinking out loud

Emory

[danb1974]

Ask Tamiya why after 27 years it still makes this chassis with those weak springs that break after a few runs. Let me guess, because it's cheaper not to design another one and makes people buy replacements or do the 5-th shock mod.

[wolfdogstinkus]

I think the springs work ok if you don't over tighten the screws holding them in, or use a step screw, so the spring can move. when you tighten the screw, it traps the spring causing it to snap the first time it tries to move.

[danb1974]

Did not overtighten, springs were ok for a couple of packs / asphalt run

Moved into backyard, nothing extreme, just a little bumpy, stock motor, both springs broke in the same spot

They are not elastic enough from the start, if you bent them all the way up they do not completely revert to original position

You know, I like Tamiya for what they do right, but details such as this (c'mon, how hard is to make two better springs, same shape, better metal) do annoy me.